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Bolt action build guidance

Usaf197

Private
Minuteman
Oct 10, 2020
10
0
I want to start a bolt action rifle build.

Long term I want this for hunting and target/distance shooting. I’m in the PNW so deer, elk etc.

I want to be able to swap calibers/bolt faces. At home not a barrel swap at range etc.
Say I hunt with 300 prc but want to shoot some target with 6.5 creed.

I really like tikkas but know they have mag/chassis issues sometimes.

How about savage? Stick with tikka?

Want to buy a factory rifle and then get a chassis and additional barrels.
 
I want to start a bolt action rifle build.

Long term I want this for hunting and target/distance shooting. I’m in the PNW so deer, elk etc.

I want to be able to swap calibers/bolt faces. At home not a barrel swap at range etc.
Say I hunt with 300 prc but want to shoot some target with 6.5 creed.

I really like tikkas but know they have mag/chassis issues sometimes.

How about savage? Stick with tikka?

Want to buy a factory rifle and then get a chassis and additional barrels.
If you're in the PNW, drive over to Aero Precision and pickup a SOLUS bolt action and chassis, and build on it. Or pickup a whole SOLUS rifle. They have several flavors in 6.5CM and .308 Win.


Also, the SOLUS uses Zermatt Origin/Bighorn shouldered prefit barrels, and Aero sells the SOLUS action wrench for like $90, so you can swap barrels at home yourself with a torque wrench and a barrel vise. Simple as that. It also has interchangeable bolt heads, but they don't have anything other than .478" to offer right now. In the future I wouldn't mind getting a short-action magnum and building a 7mm SS (Sherman Short Mag) on it.

I'm building a custom SOLUS 20" .25 Creedmoor right now. I've got everything except the barrel and scope. I'm going with a custom pre-fit with a shoulder, and won't be using the barrel nut setup, but it does come with the nut and the nut wrench incase you want to use a Savage small-shank barrel instead of a shouldered pre-fit.

IMG_0338.jpeg
 
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If you are going for the ability to easily swap between cartridges as you mentioned, my suggestions would be to:

1. Go with a custom action that you can buy pre fit barrels for as previously mentioned. Or...
2. Go with a Remington 700 (since you mentioned you want to stick with a factory action) and go with a Remage barrel setup. Or...
3. Get a Savage. There is some hate out there for Savage but I have not personally no had ANY of the issues that people love to hate them for. Truth is you can make them into damn fine rifles in my experience. I have one that runs really well.

A custom action would be my vote but the $ involved in dedicating yourself to a full custom build, while worth it, can be a lot up front. It would give you the ability to buy all the pre fits you want. If you want really easy barrel swaps, got with something like the Terminus Zues QC option. An Allen wrench is the only tool needed and you can change your barrel in 60 seconds.

If you are firm on the factory action options, the Remage setup is a hybrid design between Remington and Savage hence Remage... It allows you to use the barrel nut design from a Savage on your Remington action. Both a Remage setup and a Savage will allow you to set your own headspace which means you would not need a gunsmith for your barrel swaps. Keep in min that these options can end up leading you down the $ rabbit hole over time and before too long, you end up realizing that you spent damn near the same money as if you had just gone with a custom action from the get go.

Make sure no matter what route you go, you get a set of Go/No Go gauges for each cartridge you are working with so you can properly set your headspace. Some may suggest you only need a Go gauge and can use scotch tape to make a No Go gauge... Up to you but I prefer to have the proper tools.

Also... Keep in mind that if you are running all these different cartridges, you may end up needing more than one action. 6.5 Creedmoor is a short action cartridge but a 300 PRC is not...
 
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If you are going for the ability to easily swap between cartridges as you mentioned, my suggestions would be to:

1. Go with a custom action that you can buy pre fit barrels for as previously mentioned. Or...
2. Go with a Remington 700 (since you mentioned you want to stick with a factory action) and go with a Remage barrel setup. Or...
3. Get a Savage. There is some hate out there for Savage but I have not personally no had ANY of the issues that people love to hate them for. Truth is you can make them into damn fine rifles in my experience. I have one that runs really well.

A custom action would be my vote but the $ involved in dedicating yourself to a full custom build, while worth it, can be a lot up front. It would give you the ability to buy all the pre fits you want. If you want really easy barrel swaps, got with something like the Terminus Zues QC option. An Allen wrench is the only tool needed and you can change your barrel in 60 seconds.

If you are firm on the factory action options, the Remage setup is a hybrid design between Remington and Savage hence Remage... It allows you to use the barrel nut design from a Savage on your Remington action. Both a Remage setup and a Savage will allow you to set your own headspace which means you would not need a gunsmith for your barrel swaps. Keep in min that these options can end up leading you down the $ rabbit hole over time and before too long, you end up realizing that you spent damn near the same money as if you had just gone with a custom action from the get go.

Make sure no matter what route you go, you get a set of Go/No Go gauges for each cartridge you are working with so you can properly set your headspace. Some may suggest you only need a Go gauge and can use scotch tape to make a No Go gauge... Up to you but I prefer to have the proper tools.

Also... Keep in mind that if you are running all these different cartridges, you may end up needing more than one action. 6.5 Creedmoor is a short action cartridge but a 300 PRC is not...
I’ve heard tikkas use a prefit barrel as well, is this true to your knowledge? They don’t utilize a barrel nut
 
I personally don't have much knowledge on Tikkas. I have shot a few but have never owned one. I mainly stick with custom actions and Remington because its what Grandpa shot and he was my favorite human of all time so its a nostalgia thing. What little knowledge I have on them an a quick google/hide search, it looks like there are some options out there for pre fits. That may be another option for you.
 
The main question I think you should answer for us though is what your budget looks like. That should help us narrow down some solid options.
 
Budget currently is say $1500-2000. I have glass already so it’ll just be for rifle. I’d like to stay closer to $1500 that way I could put the other 500 towards ammo/ reloading stuff for new round
 
Budget currently is say $1500-2000. I have glass already so it’ll just be for rifle. I’d like to stay closer to $1500 that way I could put the other 500 towards ammo/ reloading stuff for new round
1500 for rifle? Or 1500 for rifle plus all the barrels you are going to need for swapping?
 
I would say Tikka.

Tikka's can be configured in both short and long configurations, so it can work for the cartridges you list.

There's a lot of aftermarket support for Tikka's these days. And their tennon tolerances are tight enough for shouldered prefits - a few gunsmiths make them for Tikka's now.
 
Issue with a Tikka is bolt face.
Cant swap em, so you cant run a PRC as the OP said he wants toand run a .473 BF based cartridge like the 6.5 creedmoor in the same gun.

Find a used LA Origin.
Get a Proof 6.5 creed barrel
kRG Bravo.
Shoot.
If you shop used and sales, wont be much over your budget. 😎

Then you can figure out all the other stuff you wanna do as you go.
 
I really like tikkas but know they have mag/chassis issues sometimes.
I would say Tikka.

Tikka's can be configured in both short and long configurations, so it can work for the cartridges you list.

There's a lot of aftermarket support for Tikka's these days. And their tennon tolerances are tight enough for shouldered prefits - a few gunsmiths make them for Tikka's now.
Well since you have already stated that you like the Tikkas and if there is plenty of aftermarket support for them these days, I would say go that route if you are 100% on staying with a factory action. Otherwise I would go with The Terminus Zeus but that would blow you budget.

You mentioned mag/chassis issues... What kind of issues are the Tikkas known for?
 
Well since you have already stated that you like the Tikkas and if there is plenty of aftermarket support for them these days, I would say go that route if you are 100% on staying with a factory action. Otherwise I would go with The Terminus Zeus but that would blow you budget.

You mentioned mag/chassis issues... What kind of issues are the Tikkas known for?
In my bit of searching polymer Aics mags have been reported having issues in tikkas but I don’t have personal experience
 
The issue you're going to run into with a Tikka is various bolt faces. I have one that I swap barrels with at the range (223, 308, Mag), but the hardest part was collecting the 3 needed bolts. I bought 3 seperate rifles, pulled the bolts and sold the rest for parts. I would think an origin or similar would be better in this regard as you have a source for bolt faces from the manufacturer. Tikkas do take prefits, the PRoof prefits are great, but only come in carbon fiber right now. The other positive I can see is chassis availability. They all come in a 700 footprint, but not all come in the Tikka footprint. I would put my tikka in a Manners LRH, but I don't believe it comes in the tikka footprint.
 
What LA actions can be recommended to be backwards compatible, for lack of a better phrase, from a 300PRC to 6.5Creed? Any long action? I am most likely not capturing all the aspects, or will any LA work with a SA round? If any LA will allow use of a SA, then the funnel of choice is made advantageous to the OP's request.
 
I made my decision to stick with a short action because I figure with 300wsm i can take an elk at distance without issue, so a long action really wouldn't benefit me. I leave my rifle set up as 223 for cheap shooting, then change to 308 for the hunting months here in Texas. The 300wsm will get its chance at a colorado elk next year hopefully. Settling on an optic has been harder for me than any other choice thus far.
 
^^^^
There is some wisdom!
Besides a 20” .308 barrel, get a 6.5 creed barrel too! Or a 6BR tube for target shooting fun.

You can go 7 WSM, 7 SAUM, 6.5 SAUM, 6.5 PRC too if you want for big critters.
All will work as well as the 300 WSM.

I hunt with a .308 or 6.5 creed most of all the time.
320+ bull on the wall says .308 kills alright.
Lotta antlerless full freezers too….
 
Get a Bighorn Origin action and a prefit barrel. You can change the bolt face easy enough for a short mag but a 6.5 Creed will drop elk. The Origin is a known commodity and it works. Allows for any 700 footprint stock or chassis and triggers. You can easily stay under $2000.
 
The issue you're going to run into with a Tikka is various bolt faces. I have one that I swap barrels with at the range (223, 308, Mag), but the hardest part was collecting the 3 needed bolts. I bought 3 seperate rifles, pulled the bolts and sold the rest for parts. I would think an origin or similar would be better in this regard as you have a source for bolt faces from the manufacturer. Tikkas do take prefits, the PRoof prefits are great, but only come in carbon fiber right now. The other positive I can see is chassis availability. They all come in a 700 footprint, but not all come in the Tikka footprint. I would put my tikka in a Manners LRH, but I don't believe it comes in the tikka footprint.

It's a huge shame LRI is not making Tikka bolts anymore...
 
The BAT ignitor seems like an intriguing new choice for a more budget friendly action. Though a BAT Ignitor, ZA Origin and most other "budget" custom actions will likely exceed your budget.

If keeping it around $1500-2000 is a strong objective, I would strongly look at the Mack Bros Evo actions.
 
Agreed, starting over, The Origin would be the answer. The bolt faces and prefits as a pair are the main factors in my opinion. After having 3 tikka bolts fluted at LRI, it all adds up to the origin being the logical starting point.
 
I didn't realize their prices went up. They used to be $600, which was a steal.
They weren't bad at the old price if you stuck with one bolt face and didn't mind using a barrel nut if you didnt have a smith put it on. I would take one over a Remington 700 for sure but at $775 they priced themselves too close to the $900 Origin without the easy shouldered prefits and shouldered prefits.
 
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They weren't bad at the old price if you stuck with one bolt face and didn't mind using a barrel nut if you didnt have a smith put it on. I would take one over a Remington 700 for sure but at $775 they priced themselves too close to the $900 Origin without the easy shouldered prefits and shouldered prefits.

Yeah, at that new price I would lean towards an Origin as well.
 
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Why an Origin over the TL3? Price only, or are there other things?
 
Price only to stay in the OP's price range.
Maybe OP needs to learn to pay down debt so he can have what he still can't afford, again. LOL

It is a technique I know works because I've seen me do it, well, a lot!
 
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In my bit of searching polymer Aics mags have been reported having issues in tikkas but I don’t have personal experience
Only one that I know of is magpul polymer aics. They can be made to work if you remove material from the mag but it weakens it. IMO not worth it. Steel aics work great.
 
Only one that I know of is magpul polymer aics. They can be made to work if you remove material from the mag but it weakens it. IMO not worth it. Steel aics work great.
MDT aics have been flawless for me.
 
The BAT ignitor seems like an intriguing new choice for a more budget friendly action. Though a BAT Ignitor, ZA Origin and most other "budget" custom actions will likely exceed your budget.

If keeping it around $1500-2000 is a strong objective, I would strongly look at the Mack Bros Evo actions.

Besides the price increase of the Evo already noted, the cheap swap of bolt face from .223, .308, to magnum ($125 for heads) AND shouldered prefits that one can use Origin OR TL3 barrels (with a Hunts Long Range lug) makes it a no brainer on a budget.

Ask me how I know! 😎
 
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Besides the price increase of the Evo already noted, the cheap swap of bolt face from .223, .308, to magnum ($125 for heads) AND shouldered prefits that one can use Origin OR TL3 barrels (with a Hunts Long Range lug) makes it a no brainer on a budget.

Ask me how I know! 😎

And Grendel/ARC boltface too. Ask me how I know. 😁
 
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A fair bit of deferring advice but a lot of consensus too. Honestly pretty much any of the options presented will work for you. I would also suggest asking some guys at your local range if they will allow you handle or even shoot some of their rifles. I have never had a problem sparking up a conversation with guys at my range. If all of these options are valid, it may end up coming down to feel and personal preference.
 
I might step in it here and I know Savage is considered the scourge. But ..
The 110 / 111 actions are very versatile and excessively cheap.
The barrel nut system is proven and copied widely, Barrel swaps can be done in 15 minutes.
The factory (pre Accu Trigger) can easily and safely be tuned down to 1 lb pull and aftermarket options for less if needed.
Bolt heads can easily and cheaply be swapped in just a few minutes.
You can use a long action with short action calibers. (I own a .223 long action)
They are not for everyone, I know, but if you want to save a few bucks they are not terrible.
My best shooting rifle is a Savage 10 (short action) in 6mm Creed. It is boringly accurate, even with factory ammo.
If you are spending more, I really like the Zermatt or Coup De Grace.
 
I might step in it here and I know Savage is considered the scourge. But ..
The 110 / 111 actions are very versatile and excessively cheap.
The barrel nut system is proven and copied widely, Barrel swaps can be done in 15 minutes.
The factory (pre Accu Trigger) can easily and safely be tuned down to 1 lb pull and aftermarket options for less if needed.
Bolt heads can easily and cheaply be swapped in just a few minutes.
You can use a long action with short action calibers. (I own a .223 long action)
They are not for everyone, I know, but if you want to save a few bucks they are not terrible.
My best shooting rifle is a Savage 10 (short action) in 6mm Creed. It is boringly accurate, even with factory ammo.
If you are spending more, I really like the Zermatt or Coup De Grace.

Well, there it is. 38 posts of wisdom, a virtual record. The pressure of staying on the rails was just too high, @Highbrass knew it was wrong, but could not resist the savage blue pill.
 
I might step in it here and I know Savage is considered the scourge. But ..
The 110 / 111 actions are very versatile and excessively cheap.
The barrel nut system is proven and copied widely, Barrel swaps can be done in 15 minutes.
The factory (pre Accu Trigger) can easily and safely be tuned down to 1 lb pull and aftermarket options for less if needed.
Bolt heads can easily and cheaply be swapped in just a few minutes.
You can use a long action with short action calibers. (I own a .223 long action)
They are not for everyone, I know, but if you want to save a few bucks they are not terrible.
My best shooting rifle is a Savage 10 (short action) in 6mm Creed. It is boringly accurate, even with factory ammo.
If you are spending more, I really like the Zermatt or Coup De Grace.
I can't disagree with any particular point made here. Apparently on this site, Savage is not well received. So, referencing point #6 "They are not for everyone" is really a very powerful point of argument.
 
Guys recommending Tikkas, have you removed a factory barrel without having to make a relief cut?

My buddy couldn’t and I understand this is not unusual????
 
I think that SAC can remove the barrel without cutting. However, they use heat on the receiver to do it, which typically screws up the finish on the receiver and results in needing to cerakote it.

The Tikka barrel I had was a good shooter, but it had issues with copper solids due to inconsistencies with the rifling. I has that bbl cut off and replaced with a Proof CF drop-in done by PVA.
 
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Guys recommending Tikkas, have you removed a factory barrel without having to make a relief cut?

My buddy couldn’t and I understand this is not unusual????
Since I have no experience with Tikka myself, I took to the internet this last couple of days to learn a little more about them. I came across numerous statements saying the same thing but I also came across a video on YouTube that shows a guy removing his factory barrel. He put a torque wrench on it at 225 ft lbs and it didn’t budge. He used hot and cold on the barrel to save the the finish on the action and was able to break it lose. Looks like they are either torqued to 43 1/2 million ft lbs from the factory or they are torqued to 30 million ft lbs and epoxied in place… Either way it looks like a pain in the ass but is doable none the less… I wonder if you can buy jus the action to get around this?
 
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Since I have no experience with Tikka myself, I took to the internet this last couple of days to learn a little more about them. I came across numerous statements saying the same thing but I also came across a video on YouTube that shows a guy removing his factory barrel. He put a torque wrench on it at 225 ft lbs and it didn’t budge. He used hot and cold on the barrel to save the the finish on the action and was able to break it lose. Looks like they are either torqued to 43 1/2 million ft lbs from the factory or they are torqued to 30 million ft lbs and epoxied in place… Either way it looks like a pain in the ass but is doable none the less… I wonder if you can buy jus the action to get around this?
All I’m saying…and @GBMaryland is the friend I was referencing and he’s quite handy at this kind of stuff…is I don’t see a Tikka as a good switch barrel platform for this reason.
 
All I’m saying…and @GBMaryland is the friend I was referencing and he’s quite handy at this kind of stuff…is I don’t see a Tikka as a good switch barrel platform for this reason.
On that point I agree. It adds a headache that you wouldn't have otherwise. Doable yes but too big of a pain in the ass for me personally to pursue it. Especially given everything else that is available.
 
Yeah, all to end up with a, not long enough, long action with 70% lug engagement and a brittle bolt. They were awesome at $400. Now?

Pass. The. Origin.
 
JA outdoors is a source for tikka actions and parts. Also getting barrels off the newer actions is a breeze.