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bolt hard to close/extract 308 plz read

Johnzor

Private
Full Member
Minuteman
May 18, 2011
30
0
35
south east idaho
Started handloading about 2 months ago for my rem aac-sd. Before handloading my rifle loved nosler match factory. So I started handloading replicas of them. They shot good no problems.
Although after surfing the web and reading up on handloading I decided to buy a OAL gauge. Purchased a dummy round to find my oal using the "sandwich" method which was consistently 2.969 with 178 Amax 2.007 case length. I figured I will start at 2.869 oal to find my sweet spot.
Deprimed neck sized, cleaned, flashhole uniforming, checked all case lengths to 2.007 etc.
the bolt is hard to close over. If the oal is no longer then 2.784 I have no problem closing or extracting .
I also have pictures since its damaging the bullet as I force the bolt close on it.
Any help would be appreciated.


Here is a picture.
http://i1112.photobucket.com/albums/k484/johnzorz/Mobile%20Uploads/C360_2012-01-04_23-36-03.jpg


 
Re: bolt hard to close/extract 308 plz read

Just sounds like you are loading them to long, You need to measure from the ogive and not the tip. I have 155 berger hybrids that measure 2.905 COAL but the Ogive is 2.230. My 175 SMK COAL is 2.815 but the Ogive is 2.250.

Pictures will help, but sounds like the bullets are loaded to long and touching.

C360_2012-01-04_23-36-03.jpg


That looks like a different issue, is that just one mark at the bottom of the bullet or does it go all around the bullet?

The first line below the tip looks like where the Ogive would be or where you bullet seater is touching.
 
Re: bolt hard to close/extract 308 plz read

are you using AICS mags or anything like that? It looks like a scratch from feeding. The fact you are having the issue of tight closing bolt could be that you need to bump the shoulder back on your brass.

To confirm this take a brand new piece of brass seat a bullet at the same depth and try to see if loads tight or not. If the new brass seats fine then it is an issue of having to bump the shoulder back on your used brass. If the new brass does not seat then it is something else.

Nosler Brass needs to have the shoulder bumped back after every 3-5 fire.
 
Re: bolt hard to close/extract 308 plz read

Just confirmed it with new brass, same seating depth and it chambered just fine no bullet scratching. Wow your good.
How can I bump the shoulder down now? I though that's what the neck sizing die does?
I'm not sure what AICSmags are. to accommodate longer coal I suppose
 
Re: bolt hard to close/extract 308 plz read

I believe neck sizing dies only squeeze the neck so the projectile doesn't fall in. The concept is that fire-formed brass fits your chamber more exactly. Neck sizing keeps that fit. You should be able to get away with neck sizing at least a few times. Obviously not in your case.
 
Re: bolt hard to close/extract 308 plz read

You will need to buy a full length sizer die, are you using bushings? Or you can use a body die, it won't touch your neck. Either way you figured out your problem. You will probably need to buy one of the RCBS case micrometers that will allow you to measure the ogive length on your round caliber specific,when you change bullets you will know where to start on the OAL. Still not sure where that big scratch comes from?
 
Re: bolt hard to close/extract 308 plz read

Sounds like you need to bump the shoulder back a little.
 
Re: bolt hard to close/extract 308 plz read

You need a full length sizing die and a set of headspace guages to set your dies properly. Most people will only FL size their brass every few firings in order to keep the brass from being over worked. However, if you set your dies in a manner that only sets the should back .001 when you run them through the sizer, they will not get over worked and good quality brass will last you a really long time. You will need a set of dial calipers (digital will work) and this...

http://www.google.com/products/catalog?h...53701587295293#
 
Re: bolt hard to close/extract 308 plz read

My .02 cents:

1. FL resize your brass (adjust your FL die per the directions).

2. Chamber check the empty FL sized case. Should go in with no resistance. If there's resistance, screw the FL die down a smige and try again, until the bolt closes easily.

3. Take said case and cut two vertical notches in the casemouth down close to the shoulder (thin cutoff wheel works well). Clean up the case and test fit the bullet into the case. It should go in with some resistance, just start the bullet into the case, so it's really long, ~3.0". NO PRIMER, NO POWDER.

4. CAREFULLY take that test cartridge and slip it into the chamber. CAREFULLY close the bolt; there should be resistance (that's the bullet being pushed into the case).

5. CAREFULLY open the bolt and guide the cartridge out of the chamber, so the ejector doesn't pop it out. It everything went right, the bullet should still be in the case (if not, the bullet is stuck in the lands and needs to be knocked out and redone). Works best, if the plunger ejector is removed, as there won't be any spring pressure.

6. Measure the OAL and ojive. Do this (steps 4-6) a few times to confirm your measurements. This is the distance to the lands in that chamber.

Pretty accurate and costs you nothing.
 
Re: bolt hard to close/extract 308 plz read

Agree with shoulder bump. I had the same problem when I first started reloading my Rem 700. I started with a 2.9+ COAL as well and kept shortening, still getting the same problem. Bumped the shoulders back .001 and problem went away.