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Gunsmithing Bolt Knob Install Question

Petrichor Actual

Sergeant
Full Member
Minuteman
Aug 8, 2013
152
0
NW MO
A while back I had a Badger Bolt Knob installed. When I got it back from the smith the install job IMO looked less than stellar. Everything is solid and it works fine, but from the photos I've other knob jobs look fairly seamless or flush. Take a look. Am I being a Nancy or is it worthy of being addressed with the smith? Any other recommendations?

20140105_005733 (2).jpg
 
Follow up question. How do I get photos to post larger than a postage stamp? Please click on my bolt photo above to balloon it up to size.
 
Pretty hard to fit a round hole to a rectangular shank when the shank is smaller than the ID of the thread.
 
On a Remington, that is very good to perfect. You just haven't got anything else to compare it to, meaning other Remington's, but that is how they look on Remington handles.
 
A while back I had a Badger Bolt Knob installed. When I got it back from the smith the install job IMO looked less than stellar. Everything is solid and it works fine, but from the photos I've other knob jobs look fairly seamless or flush. Take a look. Am I being a Nancy or is it worthy of being addressed with the smith? Any other recommendations?

View attachment 25868

Benito, would you mind posting a picture as an example of what you were expecting yours to look like.
 
Run it. It's a little off in the vertical, center line plane of the bolt handle but should be fine. If you don't like the look of the little void in the top, just mix up a little 5 minute JB weld and put it in there and wipe it clean and flush with the handle. This will make the transition look cleaner. JB is just like threadlocker, if you wanted to remove the handle down the road, just apply some heat to break it loose.
 
I use enough J-B Weld on the threads when installing the knob so that it oozes back and fills the gap when the knob is tightened. Gotta use something to lock the knob on the handle anyway, and J-B does a whole lot better job than loc tite. 'Course, there will be some who think the J-B looks worse than the gap, but if it's cleaned up properly before it hardens, it looks better to me than leaving the gap. And if you're CeraKoting or GunKoting afterwards, that covers the differences in metal/J-B color.
 
Run it. It's a little off in the vertical, center line plane of the bolt handle but should be fine. If you don't like the look of the little void in the top, just mix up a little 5 minute JB weld and put it in there and wipe it clean and flush with the handle. This will make the transition look cleaner. JB is just like threadlocker, if you wanted to remove the handle down the road, just apply some heat to break it loose.

Ditto the J-B to fill and fair off the square edges. While your at it, scrub up the bolt handle with a red scotch brite pad and give the handle, J-B, and Bolt handle a coat of air dry Duracoat. If you did a good job with the J-B, it will look like it was all formed from a single piece of metal.
 
I appreciate the responses. I'll continue to run it and consider filling it with JB Weld. I did a search on Monteyboy's work. His knob work looks exceptional. The threaded stud method seems to give a more seamless look. Regarding my expectations, here's a pic of one that's a little more flush. I fully admit that I'm neurotic. I'm that guy who finishes a project and doesn't like one minor detail so I try to fix it and end up jacking up everything.

image.jpg
 
There should be an even amount of the nose on the knob exposed around the handle. In the picture you posted it looks as if the tenon was cut off horizontal center line with the handle as there is quite of bit of gap at the top. You can not see what the underside looks like. I think the nose of a Badger is about .430" so the vertical sides should be pretty much flush while with the horizontals you should only see a slight gap nothing near what you show. It's purely cosmetic and shouldn't affect function but shows a lack of quality control.



For a smoother transition but a little more work.
Here are some I have done by removing the knob and making my own stud adapters, tig welding them and blending them into the rectangular factory handle. They are threaded the standard 5/16x24 to accept any standard knob.

40XknobConversion.jpg


IMG_5969_zpsbe27242f.jpg


5RSTAINLESS_zpsc8aa03ac.jpg
 
Dittos to FCrifles complement on el Gordo's work. All three of those jobs look perfect, and much nicer than what I've been turning out. Gonna give me an inferiority complex....
 
Lots of ways to do it, and that looks fine.
That gap is why we make our own knobs and use a threaded stud smaller than 5/16".
The Tac-ops style welded stud is great too, but not for us.











All knobs are turned out per order and fit to the handle it is going on.
 
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A while back I had a Badger Bolt Knob installed. When I got it back from the smith the install job IMO looked less than stellar. Everything is solid and it works fine, but from the photos I've other knob jobs look fairly seamless or flush. Take a look. Am I being a Nancy or is it worthy of being addressed with the smith? Any other recommendations?

View attachment 25868

I suppose if it functions properly, it should be fine. Personally, I would be a little dis-satisfied with that outcome, but I am picky. I had S.A.C install a Badger knob on my Rem 700, and I am very pleased with the result. I'll get a picture up later tonight.
 
There should be an even amount of the nose on the knob exposed around the handle. In the picture you posted it looks as if the tenon was cut off horizontal center line with the handle as there is quite of bit of gap at the top. You can not see what the underside looks like. I think the nose of a Badger is about .430" so the vertical sides should be pretty much flush while with the horizontals you should only see a slight gap nothing near what you show. It's purely cosmetic and shouldn't affect function but shows a lack of quality control.



For a smoother transition but a little more work.
Here are some I have done by removing the knob and making my own stud adapters, tig welding them and blending them into the rectangular factory handle. They are threaded the standard 5/16x24 to accept any standard knob.

40XknobConversion.jpg

That is beautiful work!
 
Leaving a shoulder or blending it is personal preference.
All work better than the original.