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Bolt Lube Question

AvsFan

Full Member
Full Member
Minuteman
Oct 2, 2011
571
52
Colorado
Gent's,

Do you guys use grease, oil, both, or run dry (exterior)? What about the interior where the firing pin & spring reside? If you do lube - is it the entire bolt, just the lugs? In terms of the amount of lube - light, medium, heavy? Just curious to see what the general consensus is with regard to this.

The reason I'm asking is because I've been doing a ton of bolt cycling & dry firing at home for muscle memory and to help hone my skills (cycling & dry firing) from various shooting positions while attempting to eliminate any movement in my rifle.

AvsFan
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Re: Bolt Lube Question

Most of my bolt guns are duracoated, so the surfaces are pretty slick and I really don't need to protect against corrosion. I generally just put a very light coat of oil on all of the exposed surfaces, just to do it, then wipe it off.

What I do lube is the locking lugs. Bench guns get grease. Field guns get Slip 2000.
 
Re: Bolt Lube Question

I use a lite film of quality bolt lug grease on back side of lugs. Small amount of cam grease on the cocking cam. If bolt is coated no oil on bolt body.

One of my rifles is a Stevens action which is a bare bolt, so it gets a lite application of oil. Do this by putting a couple drops on a rag and wiping it down in that manner. This is just mainly to prevent rusting.

My thoughts are enough lube to be smooth, but not enough to collect excessive amounts of dirt and grit which could cause the rifle to go down.

Some of the professionals may say diff and are welcome to correct me if I am wrong.
 
Re: Bolt Lube Question

<span style="font-family: 'Courier New'">

During the phase when my obsession was lubricity and its properties, I researched far and wide and here is what I discovered.

There are two kinds of lubricants, generally; mineral spirit, and synthetic, with few esoteric exceptions. My nephew is a Mobil Lubricants representative who tells me there's a German grease that debris will not stick to, but I can't find any information about it, for example. Also, he gave me an abundant collection of numerous condiment-size packet samples of greases, both mineral and synthetic. I've used both on guns and things for two or so years. Your friendly, local lubricants distributor will probably be happy to share with you some grease samples

Mineral spirit grease:

Oil eventually separates from mineral based grease in varying degrees depending on the blend. Lubricity changes until finally a mineral grease becomes gummy and ultimately crusty like old shorts. Low temperatures cause mineral based grease to thicken. High temperatures cause it to thin. Higher heat causes melting and running (such as an AR bolt/lugs). Lubricity fails at that point. Synthetic is different.

Synthetic grease:

<span style="font-size: 14pt">Synthetic grease does not separate like mineral grease. Synthetic grease resists thickening and thinning caused by temperature changes. OIl does not separate from solid; there is no oil to separate. Synthetic is more expensive than mineral based grease. Its better. </span>

Since I researched lubricity, and tinkered with both kinds of grease, I've changed to full synthetic motor oil in my car. Amsoil. Superior lubricity. Its lubricating properties last longer -- more than enough to offset the higher cost of the superior, synthetic lubricant (The proprietor of AMSOIL invented synthetic). I save my empty motor oil containers, turn them bottom side up, using the left over for lubing guns and things in my shop.

For applications requiring a thicker, more viscous liquid lubricant, I use synthetic 90w gear oil from Walmart. Brian Enos markets Slide Glide that has a tacky characteristic for slowing slide cycling on auto loading pistols. Mobil produces a synthetic grease for high temperature applications, and its white in color, so it doesn't make stuff nasty with grey or black gunk that is hard to distinguish from carbon fouling. For some apps like sear engagement surfaces, and bolt lugs, I've mixed hexagonal boron nitride with Slide Glide. OMG! Talk about slick? And it stays put. Some greases are fortified with molybdenum disulfide. You could mix this yourself.

Mineral grease will work. Synthetic grease is a superior lubricant.

</span>
 
Re: Bolt Lube Question

In my bolt guns the firing pin and spring are decreased and dry-lube is sprayed on them lightly. The bolt cocking cam, the bolt exterior and the back of the lugs gets a light coat of synthetic lube.
 
Re: Bolt Lube Question

http://www.froglube.com/

My buddy introduced me to this stuff. It's quite amazing. I lube hot loads with it and no more sticky bolts. Works great directly on the bolt as well. Hell, it even smells good... like it would be appropriate on celery or something
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I normally use white lithium grease, but just enough to film over the lugs. I clean pretty regularly and meticulously, so grit retention is not so much of a problem in the long run, for me anyhow.
 
Re: Bolt Lube Question

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Casey Simpson</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><span style="font-family: 'Courier New'">

During the phase when my obsession was lubricity and its properties, I researched far and wide and here is what I discovered.

There are two kinds of lubricants, generally; mineral spirit, and synthetic, with few esoteric exceptions. My nephew is a Mobil Lubricants representative who tells me there's a German grease that debris will not stick to, but I can't find any information about it, for example. Also, he gave me an abundant collection of numerous condiment-size packet samples of greases, both mineral and synthetic. I've used both on guns and things for two or so years. Your friendly, local lubricants distributor will probably be happy to share with you some grease samples

Mineral spirit grease:

Oil eventually separates from mineral based grease in varying degrees depending on the blend. Lubricity changes until finally a mineral grease becomes gummy and ultimately crusty like old shorts. Low temperatures cause mineral based grease to thicken. High temperatures cause it to thin. Higher heat causes melting and running (such as an AR bolt/lugs). Lubricity fails at that point. Synthetic is different.

Synthetic grease:

<span style="font-size: 14pt">Synthetic grease does not separate like mineral grease. Synthetic grease resists thickening and thinning caused by temperature changes. OIl does not separate from solid; there is no oil to separate. Synthetic is more expensive than mineral based grease. Its better. </span>

Since I researched lubricity, and tinkered with both kinds of grease, I've changed to full synthetic motor oil in my car. Amsoil. Superior lubricity. Its lubricating properties last longer -- more than enough to offset the higher cost of the superior, synthetic lubricant (The proprietor of AMSOIL invented synthetic). I save my empty motor oil containers, turn them bottom side up, using the left over for lubing guns and things in my shop.

For applications requiring a thicker, more viscous liquid lubricant, I use synthetic 90w gear oil from Walmart. Brian Enos markets Slide Glide that has a tacky characteristic for slowing slide cycling on auto loading pistols. Mobil produces a synthetic grease for high temperature applications, and its white in color, so it doesn't make stuff nasty with grey or black gunk that is hard to distinguish from carbon fouling. For some apps like sear engagement surfaces, and bolt lugs, I've mixed hexagonal boron nitride with Slide Glide. OMG! Talk about slick? And it stays put. Some greases are fortified with molybdenum disulfide. You could mix this yourself.

Mineral grease will work. Synthetic grease is a superior lubricant.

</span> </div></div>

im with casey on this one. slick is slick. the ity bity "gun oil" bottles are still a lubricant just with a jacked up price.id have to think the automotive lubricant dudes have put about as much research into lubricity as anyone and im pretty sure a motor operates in some pretty extreme conditions.dont soak it, just get it slick and grease on the back of the lugs and your done, go shoot.
 
Re: Bolt Lube Question

I've only done extensive dryfire through this rig so there are no field reports. I use Shell Aeroshell 33MS, which is a 5% molybdenum disulfide addition to their Aeroshell 33 formulation, a universal airframe grease, lithium complex. It's slick stuff and works better than the CRC moly-graph stuff at stores (smells better too!). A dab on the cocking cam slot and the back of the lugs and its very, very smooth. I've switched between Froglube and Shell Aeroshell Fuid 18 on the wear points in the bolt body. Froglube is buttery (and minty) but Fluild 18 advertises corrosion and anti-wear additives and low temp performance, as well as adhering to several mil specs for aerospace use. The product sheet actually says it can be used on firearms. On internals, I use Synco (makers of Super Lube) dri-film aerosol spray which deposits a dry PTFE coat so nothing sticks or builds up on components. Fluid 18 is $30/gal and 33MS is $15/tube, not cheap,but enough to last a lifetime.
 
Re: Bolt Lube Question

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Casey Simpson</div><div class="ubbcode-body">

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</div></div>
Since Im a lifetime Amsoil dealer Ive used their products on my rifles from time to time.