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Bore cleaning compromise

M40_A1

Sergeant
Full Member
Minuteman
Feb 11, 2010
796
10
Like many here I found that shooting a fouled bore led to better and more consistent accuracy, plus I saved a bunch on time and cleaning materials. However, I was concerned about the carbon retaining moisture as some say it is prone to do. So then I went after the carbon to remove it using lots of patches of Hoppes or CLP until clean.

But just now it dawned on me. When I clean my Single Action Armies after shooting black powder loads, I don't completely strip them down to remove all traces of black powder fouling from every nook and cranny, which is notorious for causing corrosion if left to absorb moisture. No, I clean them like all the old cowboys used to- clean the chambers and bore with soapy water, dry, and oil the whole gun so moisture can't get in the fouling hiding in the relatively inaccessible areas = no corrosion, even though still fouled in spots (like the barrel threads, ejector, and inside the hand and bolt windows).

So, back to the rifle bore, why not just run a quick patch or two of CLP down the fouled bore, followed immediately by three to five dry patches and be done with it? The pores in the remaining carbon will retain enough of the oil to preclude moisture from being absorbed. Still fouled, but safe from corrosion. I just saved a lot of patches, solvent, time, and bore wear, and don't need to be concerned about corrosion. I think it may be the perfect compromise.(?)
 
Get some BoreTech carbon remover. Use 1-2 wet patches and allow to sit for 10-15 minutes. Then 4-5 dry patches, followed by lightly oiled Kranoil patch to prevent corrosion. I only cleaned when accuracy starts to fade (300-400 rounds).