%% Brass Cleaning Process, methods and timing %%

[rsplante]

I am trying to determine the best routine for cleaning cases. I will begin with the worst case, my plinking brass which starts its life for me as range brass. I start with a good rinsing to remove dirt and grass. I then soak them in water with a cup or so of vinegar (not an exact science.) then comes decision time. I have all three of the major cleaning tools, but always have to think about which to use, and when.</SPAN>

As a starting point, I will point out my observations of the three tools.</SPAN>

Vibrating with treated walnut shells. </SPAN>

• Very loud, </SPAN>
• Does not seem to clean inside of brass, </SPAN>
• If deprimed, walnut shells get stuck in every third flashhole on average</SPAN>
• Gets wife upset due to red rouge powder all over bathroom floor</SPAN>
• Highest brass volume, but not by much</SPAN>
• Will do little for appearance of really grungy range brass</SPAN>
• Dry process</SPAN>

Ultrasonic </SPAN>

• Cleans inside and outside including primer pocket</SPAN>
• Nothing to get stuck in flashhole</SPAN>
• Lowest brass volume</SPAN>
• Relatively quiet</SPAN>
• Production further limited by temperature, which rises with use. My Hornady unit cuts off at a certain temperature and refuses to budge until temp reduced.</SPAN>
• Does good, but not great job with really grungy range brass.</SPAN>
• Uses water</SPAN>

Stainless tumbling </SPAN>

• Cleans inside and outside including primer pocket</SPAN>
• If deprimed, Stainless pins get stuck in every 30 to 40[SUP]th</SPAN>[/SUP] flashhole on average</SPAN>
• Longest media separation process of three</SPAN>
• Relatively quiet (about the same as ultrasonic, much quieter than vibrating)</SPAN>
• Gets brass SO SHINY my wife thought of making into jewelry, lol</SPAN>
• Moderate brass volume</SPAN>
• Uses water</SPAN>

I have recently been following the vinegar solution bath with rinsing and drying, depriming, full-length sizing and trimming, swaging the primer pocket and then tumbling. My reasoning for cleaning at this point is that it removes the lube which makes it easier to hold stationary while chamfering the neck and normalizing the primer pocket if that is done, it also cleans the primer pocket which is now empty. The downside to cleaning after depriming is that “something” often gets stuck in the flashhole (unless using ultrasonic.) I then chamfer and debur the neck and think about normalizing the primer pocket… NAH, it’s range brass, so only useful for plinking or barter when the SHTF.</SPAN>

If I choose to vibrate, I will probably follow it with untrasonic to clean the primer pockets. That is why I have mostly switched to stainless media tumbling.


For my precision brass, I have been depriming, full length sizing (gas gun) and trimming, stainless media tumbling (not concerned with possible work hardening because I plan to anneal every third firing,) and chamfer/debur the neck and renormalize the primer pocket (I had thought it was a one-time thing, but some brass supposedly flows each firing.) Then I sort it in .1gn lots. I sort and store them in two Stack-On 39 drawer storage cabinets (DSB-30) ($20 each at Lowes) The small drawers work great for sorting and storing (since they come out easily,) and I use the 9 large drawers for holding fired brass until I start over.</SPAN>

 

[gunsnjeeps]

My typical cleaning is to tumble in corn cob for an hour; size and deprime, trim, swage pockets if needed; then ultrasonic to clean and remove lube. I've borrowed a Thulmer's to use because I had some brass that got picked up after it rained and put away wet and some really nasty range brass. It works great but seems a little overkill for most of my needs. I'll may end up buying a wet tumbler, rather than borrowing it again, if I need one again but I don't think it's an everytime thing.

PS. If you wet tumble your brass first you don't need to rinse with vinegar first. I use Lemi-shine in my utrasonic and when I steel tumble.

 

[nuclear_shooter]

Is there any other way to remove the lube from inside the necks? I'm not too excited to spend more $$ on a ultrasonic cleaner...

 

[Temp9]

Is there any other way to remove the lube from inside the necks? I'm not too excited to spend more $$ on a ultrasonic cleaner...

Use a water soluble lube and rinse with water after.

 

[427Cobra]

I sat and watched BR shooters clean there brass by hand with OOOO steel wool or a Krazy Klothe, brush there necks out, and do nothing to the primer pocket, and shoot itty bitty groups, I have tried all four methods(US Vib SS and by hand) I have settled on Vib clean, it's simple easy and effective with the least amount of work, YMMV.

 

[Greg Langelius *]

After several decades my little Lyman tumbler finally expired. I just got an Ultrasonic and I like it, I use Lemishine and Dawn and soak it all in the hopper with hot tap water for some time before I kick off the cleaning process.

For folks using stainless who get double pins stuck, try this.

Greg

 

[rsplante]

After several decades my little Lyman tumbler finally expired. I just got an Ultrasonic and I like it, I use Lemishine and Dawn and soak it all in the hopper with hot tap water for some time before I kick off the cleaning process.

For folks using stainless who get double pins stuck, try this.

Greg

Thanks Greg,
Although, I went directly to the seller Bullseye Reloading - Home and saved $10 over Amazon's price, plus the $4.12 that the Statists at Amazon would have charged me in tax even though I live in a different state.

 

[joemusso]

i use SS tumbling and will never go back. i love the results i get. and is consistent every time.

i used the pins that come with the tumbler and they get stuck in flash hole and sideways in .308 necks .250" X .040"
i bought the .062" X .500" and i thing it is a bit to big (long)
i might try the stuff from bullseye reloading and see what results i get. .255" X .047" ( this might be a winner for me)

 

[jdboy]

I've been reloading since the early 90's and have never owned a tumbler. I've used Iosso Brass cleaner for several years and if I remember correctly I used a Beachwood Casey liquid cleaner before that. I de-prime the brass, place 50 or so pieces of .308 brass in the mesh bag, drop the bag in the cleaner bucket, agitate for a minute or so, remove the bag and rinse the brass in warm water, lastly I stand the cases up neck down in reloading trays made from 2x6's to wick the water for air drying. It's worked for several years and I've always been happy with the results.

 

[gunsnjeeps]

At times I think that the acid used (lemishine/vinegar/acetic) maybe the biggest cleaning agent in wet cleaning methods, not the mechanical component involved.

 

[elfster1234]

http://www.snipershide.com/[email protected]

I am trying to determine the best routine for cleaning cases. I will begin with the worst case, my plinking brass which starts its life for me as range brass. I start with a good rinsing to remove dirt and grass. I then soak them in water with a cup or so of vinegar (not an exact science.) then comes decision time. I have all three of the major cleaning tools, but always have to think about which to use, and when.</SPAN>

As a starting point, I will point out my observations of the three tools.</SPAN>

Vibrating with treated walnut shells. </SPAN>

• Very loud, </SPAN>
• Does not seem to clean inside of brass, </SPAN>
• If deprimed, walnut shells get stuck in every third flashhole on average</SPAN>
• Gets wife upset due to red rouge powder all over bathroom floor</SPAN>
• Highest brass volume, but not by much</SPAN>
• Will do little for appearance of really grungy range brass</SPAN>
• Dry process</SPAN>

Ultrasonic </SPAN>

• Cleans inside and outside including primer pocket</SPAN>
• Nothing to get stuck in flashhole</SPAN>
• Lowest brass volume</SPAN>
• Relatively quiet</SPAN>
• Production further limited by temperature, which rises with use. My Hornady unit cuts off at a certain temperature and refuses to budge until temp reduced.</SPAN>
• Does good, but not great job with really grungy range brass.</SPAN>
• Uses water</SPAN>

Stainless tumbling </SPAN>

• Cleans inside and outside including primer pocket</SPAN>
• If deprimed, Stainless pins get stuck in every 30 to 40[SUP]th</SPAN>[/SUP] flashhole on average</SPAN>
• Longest media separation process of three</SPAN>
• Relatively quiet (about the same as ultrasonic, much quieter than vibrating)</SPAN>
• Gets brass SO SHINY my wife thought of making into jewelry, lol</SPAN>
• Moderate brass volume</SPAN>
• Uses water</SPAN>

I have recently been following the vinegar solution bath with rinsing and drying, depriming, full-length sizing and trimming, swaging the primer pocket and then tumbling. My reasoning for cleaning at this point is that it removes the lube which makes it easier to hold stationary while chamfering the neck and normalizing the primer pocket if that is done, it also cleans the primer pocket which is now empty. The downside to cleaning after depriming is that “something” often gets stuck in the flashhole (unless using ultrasonic.) I then chamfer and debur the neck and think about normalizing the primer pocket… NAH, it’s range brass, so only useful for plinking or barter when the SHTF.</SPAN>

If I choose to vibrate, I will probably follow it with untrasonic to clean the primer pockets. That is why I have mostly switched to stainless media tumbling.


For my precision brass, I have been depriming, full length sizing (gas gun) and trimming, stainless media tumbling (not concerned with possible work hardening because I plan to anneal every third firing,) and chamfer/debur the neck and renormalize the primer pocket (I had thought it was a one-time thing, but some brass supposedly flows each firing.) Then I sort it in .1gn lots. I sort and store them in two Stack-On 39 drawer storage cabinets (DSB-30) ($20 each at Lowes) The small drawers work great for sorting and storing (since they come out easily,) and I use the 9 large drawers for holding fired brass until I start over.</SPAN>

 

[Ring]

you could use this... not cheep, but should last forever...

Precision Vibratory Tumbling Media - Stock Products

3 or 4mm ceramic Polishing Spheres

 

[rsplante]

you could use this... not cheep, but should last forever...

Precision Vibratory Tumbling Media - Stock Products

3 or 4mm ceramic Polishing Spheres

Does anyone actually use this? As spheres, I cannot imagine that it would do a good job getting into corners, such as primer pockets.

 

[Ring]

the 2mm should

 

[Greg Langelius *]

After trying the Lemishine, I also tried substituting plain old Kool-Aide Unsweetened Lemonade Mix (and the Wallyworld Great Value equivalent). It's nearly totally Citric Acid, and works indistinguishably from the Lemishine. 20 cents a pack for the real stuff, 12 cents for the cheapo house-brand substitute.

Greg

 

[rsplante]

the 2mm should

2mm might seem pretty small, but here is a sketch demonstrating the relative size of a 2mm sphere in a small rifle primer pocket:


as you can see, it doesn't quite get into the corner of the pocket. Basically, it would miss the outer 1mm where the primer contacts when seated, which is .0394"

 

[Ring]

2mm might seem pretty small, but here is a sketch demonstrating the relative size of a 2mm sphere in a small rifle primer pocket:
View attachment 14008

as you can see, it doesn't quite get into the corner of the pocket. Basically, it would miss the outer 1mm where the primer contacts when seated, which is .0394"

being that i used to shoot the same brass for over 10 years, and never once cleaned a primer pocket, i dont think thats a issue, unless you suffer from OCD

 

[rsplante]

After trying the Lemishine, I also tried substituting plain old Kool-Aide Unsweetened Lemonade Mix (and the Wallyworld Great Value equivalent). It's nearly totally Citric Acid, and works indistinguishably from the Lemishine. 20 cents a pack for the real stuff, 12 cents for the cheapo house-brand substitute.

Greg

Only one problem with that Greg. The Lemi-Shine, if sold in Kool-Aide packets would cost 7 cents a pack. Unsweetened Kool-Aide Lemonade Mix comes in 6.5gm packets. A 12 oz bottle of Lemi-Shine is 340gm. That's the same as 52 packets of Kool-Aide. Lemi-Shine at Wallyworld is $3.66 according to their website http://www.walmart.com/ip/Lemi-Shine-Super-Concentrated-Dishwasher-Detergent-Additive-12-oz/15724190. 3.66/52 = 7 cents. Come on Greg, you didn't really expect to put one over on an anal retentive reloader, did you? lol

 

[rsplante]

being that i used to shoot the same brass for over 10 years, and never once cleaned a primer pocket, i dont think thats a issue, unless you suffer from OCD

Bwahahahahahaha! OCD, OCD? I weigh my charges on a Sartorious GD503 Magnetic Force Restoration scale to a single kernel of Varget. I trim the Meplats on my 77gn SMK bullets and then point them. Then I sort them by Ogive to Base length in 0.001" lots. I coat them with Boron-Nitride. I skim the necks on my brass, trim the flash-hole, normalize the primer pockets, chamfer and debur the necks, and sort them in 0.1gn lots. I weigh the finished rounds to check for under or over loading them. I correct concentricity to .001" or better. I run ladder tests over my Oehler 35P Proof Chronograph for both charge, and seating depth. I took a perfectly good LaRue 5.56 OBR and added David Tubbs Precision AR-15 Carrier Weight System, an Enidine Hydraulic buffer, and a Magpul PRS Stock, then I hung an 8-32x56 NightForce NXS w/ZS on it using a LaRue mount. Obsessive Compulsive, What's that? I'm F'n Anal Retentive!

 

[ArmyJerry]

But if you took the active ingredient, acid, koolaide is infinitely cheaper. I still use Lemi Shine, I just see myself showing up at the range with a grape smelling gun attracting bumble bees and fly's.

Only one problem with that Greg. The Lemi-Shine, if sold in Kool-Aide packets would cost 7 cents a pack. Unsweetened Kool-Aide Lemonade Mix comes in 6.5gm packets. A 12 oz bottle of Lemi-Shine is 340gm. That's the same as 52 packets of Kool-Aide. Lemi-Shine at Wallyworld is $3.66 according to their website Lemi Shine Super Concentrated Additive - Walmart.com. 3.66/52 = 7 cents. Come on Greg, you didn't really expect to put one over on an anal retentive reloader, did you? lol

 

[FALex]

Ultrasonic from harbor freight, hot water and dawn dish soap. Let it go 4 eight minute cycles and they're good to go. I used to play the ultra time consuming steps listed on 6mmbr.com but that never got the brass more clean, just gave it a bit more shine. My unit also is thermostat controlled and will shut off after it gets too hot.

I just start with hot water then turn the heater on every other cycle.

 

[Greg Langelius *]

Only one problem with that Greg. The Lemi-Shine, if sold in Kool-Aide packets would cost 7 cents a pack. Unsweetened Kool-Aide Lemonade Mix comes in 6.5gm packets. A 12 oz bottle of Lemi-Shine is 340gm. That's the same as 52 packets of Kool-Aide. Lemi-Shine at Wallyworld is $3.66 according to their website Lemi Shine Super Concentrated Additive - Walmart.com. 3.66/52 = 7 cents. Come on Greg, you didn't really expect to put one over on an anal retentive reloader, did you? lol

OK, here's the real reason, my Wife grabbed up the Lemishine on me...

Bwahahahahahah...!

Greg

 

[Danco411]

I'm another OCD nut. It has to look better than factory or it won't shoot! From the range it goes into the Lyman 1200 with Tuffnut for an hour to clean it up. Once out it gets sized, deprimed, trimmed and camfered. Once done it goes into the Thumblers for an hour with a squirt of Dawna and .45 case of Lemishine. Once out and dry it's ready to load. If they are going into long term storage they go into the Vibratory again with some car wax. If you wet tumble with SS Media it will take off any coating and the brass will tarnish and get dark. Car wax shines them up and keeps them that way.

Rsplante where can I get a Sartorious GD503 Magnetic Force Restoration scale? My 1500 Chargemaster throws over sometimes and won't go to 1 kernal!

 

[nuclear_shooter]

Ultrasonic from harbor freight, hot water and dawn dish soap. Let it go 4 eight minute cycles and they're good to go. I used to play the ultra time consuming steps listed on 6mmbr.com but that never got the brass more clean, just gave it a bit more shine. My unit also is thermostat controlled and will shut off after it gets too hot.

I just start with hot water then turn the heater on every other cycle.

I was thinking about driving out to Harbor Freight to pick one of these up. Did you get this one? Ultrasonic Cleaner - Save on Ultrasonic Cleaners at HFT or the 'nicer' one http://www.harborfreight.com/25-liter-ultrasonic-cleaner-95563.html

 

[Mad_Charlie]

Bwahahahahahaha! OCD, OCD? I weigh my charges on a Sartorious GD503 Magnetic Force Restoration scale to a single kernel of Varget. I trim the Meplats on my 77gn SMK bullets and then point them. Then I sort them by Ogive to Base length in 0.001" lots. I coat them with Boron-Nitride. I skim the necks on my brass, trim the flash-hole, normalize the primer pockets, chamfer and debur the necks, and sort them in 0.1gn lots. I weigh the finished rounds to check for under or over loading them. I correct concentricity to .001" or better. I run ladder tests over my Oehler 35P Proof Chronograph for both charge, and seating depth. I took a perfectly good LaRue 5.56 OBR and added David Tubbs Precision AR-15 Carrier Weight System, an Enidine Hydraulic buffer, and a Magpul PRS Stock, then I hung an 8-32x56 NightForce NXS w/ZS on it using a LaRue mount. Obsessive Compulsive, What's that? I'm F'n Anal Retentive!

Yeah,,but can you hit anything?? ;-)

 

[rsplante]

Yeah,,but can you hit anything?? ;-)

I'm still working on that part. Unfortunately it takes longer than the mechanical stuff. My best so far at 200yd prone FT/R is 600-42X.

 

[rsplante]

I'm another OCD nut. It has to look better than factory or it won't shoot! From the range it goes into the Lyman 1200 with Tuffnut for an hour to clean it up. Once out it gets sized, deprimed, trimmed and camfered. Once done it goes into the Thumblers for an hour with a squirt of Dawna and .45 case of Lemishine. Once out and dry it's ready to load. If they are going into long term storage they go into the Vibratory again with some car wax. If you wet tumble with SS Media it will take off any coating and the brass will tarnish and get dark. Car wax shines them up and keeps them that way.

Rsplante where can I get a Sartorious GD503 Magnetic Force Restoration scale? My 1500 Chargemaster throws over sometimes and won't go to 1 kernal!

Sorry, I missed your response. I found mine at ScalesGalore.com - Search for Refine Your Search and as of a few seconds ago, they still have at least one in stock. If you really want one, I would jump on it. Sartorius stopped making the things in May of this year. I had planned on buying mine after I save up and buy a Les Baer 1911, then someone on this site asked where I found a GD503, that they were out of production. I panicked, did a web search, and found that the first four sites I went to reported the same thing, that Sartorius wasn't making them anymore and they were out. When I found one, I did a quick calculation and bought it within minutes (thank you Discover Card!)

 

[rsplante]

... I would jump on it...

If you decide to get it, print this out so you don't panic like I did when I received mine. These people obviously sell to those who NEED it to be Legal For Trade. I don't know the full implications of that, but it only read in grams and carats! Thanks to this forum, I was able to fix it. It had a seal on the bottom because it was calibrated and you were not supposed to recalibrate it (even though it comes with a calibration weight!) I had read one response on this site previously and remembered that the guy said to break the seal, and move a switch position and it should work. Well, first I couldn't find the switch, and when I did, I noticed that my instruction book had no directions for switching to grains. The link below is for a more complete manual for the GD503 which includes the codes to get it to read in grains.

http://www.scalenet.com/pdf/Sartorius_GD_GE.pdf</SPAN></SPAN>

reposted:OK, I panicked. When I calmed down, I read the rest of the thread. THIS IS THE BEST WEBSITE IN THE WORLD!!!!! My GD503 came with a dumbed down owners manual which only contained codes for Grams and Carats. The manual supplied above has ALL the codes. I reprogrammed it and VOILA, IT WORKS!!!! The reason I panicked is that prior to turning to this website, I opened the access door on the bottom and could not see a switch (VERY obscure!) I thought, they sold me the wrong model. The paperwork says that the factory setting is "Not-for-trade", but mine was in the For Trade mode. I immediately went to the SEP site (which still had some in stock when I bought this one) and they no longer had any in stock! I thought I had already missed out. That's when I returned to this site and only because of this thread, I persisted in looking for the switch. I found it, and switched it, but still could not change the units. I was almost resigned to having to convert all my loads to Carats (with a loss of accuracy, and instantly converting my GD503 to a cheaper scale) when I was directed to the complete owners manual by this thread.

I repeat, this is the best site in the world! I'm a happy camper now. </SPAN>