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Brass for a class...

Cproflow

King of the Shank
Full Member
Minuteman
Jan 12, 2011
336
4
Lyons, Colorado
I have been fortunate enough to get the green light from my keeper and will be attending a Rifles Only class this summer. She thinks I'm nuts, but agreed with me that getting some quality instruction is its own reward.

That said, I need to come up with 500 rounds of .308 for the class. I of course want the only limiting factor in the course to be me...not my rounds! I'm planning on using either 178 A-max or 175 SMK sitting on top of Varget.

I'm somewhat new to the .308, so I don't have piles of brass. Right now I have been using Winchester, which seems to be viewed as favorable in the price to performance ratio.

I know Lapua is considered the next level up, and its price reflects that. People seem to love it, and I don't dispute their findings.

So in doing a quick Pro/Con list:

Winchester Pros: decent brass, affordable,
Winchester Cons: will require <span style="text-decoration: underline">all</span> the prep (PP uniforming, deburring, initial annealing(?), less reloading lifetime

Lapua Pros: exceptional brass, minimal prep (just FLS, right?), extended case life (I shoot with ~44.0 - 44.4gr)
Lapua Cons: Expensive!!!

While it would be painful to go Lapua, it isn't off the table, especially if it helps eliminate one of the variables that gets in the way of the whole 'indian or the arrow' mindsets.

Suggestions? Comments? Am I overthinking it?
Anybody got a resource for the best price on Lapua?
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Re: Brass for a class...

I'd go Winchester, just buy a thousand pieces and a thousand 175SMKs, some Varget and Plano Fed 210s, figure out your load and start cranking out ammo.
 
Re: Brass for a class...

I second the Winchester. Requires more prep, but is great brass. After prep I feel Winchester brass is as good as Lapua.
 
Re: Brass for a class...

No need to anneal before the first firing of any brass. Its all annealed from the factory, Lapua just doesnt clean the discoloration off before they ship. I love Lapua but after the first firing, you will still need to clean primer pockets.
 
Re: Brass for a class...

Winchester gets my vote. Wanna get mad...lose a piece of Lapua. I don't think Lapua is all cracked up to what its supposed to be anyway.
 
Re: Brass for a class...

If you've been using Win and have a load for it, probably ought to keep using it.

Lapua's longer life comes from heavier construction which means reduced case capacity, will definitely require load development.
 
Re: Brass for a class...

Use the Winchester.
 
Re: Brass for a class...

Another Winchester vote here. I uniform my PP, not because I can tell the difference, but because I use the same tool to clean them. And no need to anneal the first loading either. While you may get reduced life from cheaper brass, your load isn't that hot. With reg. annealing IMHO, you will get great life out of your Win. provided you're not over sizing it, and shooting it in a chamber on the loose side.
 
Re: Brass for a class...

I had good luck with Winchester. I had best luck with the 178 Amax over 44.6 gr of varget.
 
Re: Brass for a class...

I'd call that pretty unanimous--and kind of what my gut was telling me too.
Insight3b had a good point...Starting to lose pieces of Lapua would get maddening quick!

Now, it looks like the challenge will be to actually LOCATE some Win brass. It is out of stock at every vendor I know!
 
Re: Brass for a class...

That seems to be a problem this week. I would agree that Win or WCC are good rifle brass. I have a friend who shoots Lake City Match or Long Range (M118LR cases) for F/TR and swears by it. I know hes won Butner a couple of times and may have a high score for the season down there.

I've used Winchester for 5.56 Long range loads. For case prep I neck sized and debured the flash hole on them. Half of them had flt spots in the neck and I didn't want to have a batch of once sized and a batch of virgin necks so they all got sized.
 
Re: Brass for a class...

Since you are still looking for brass may I suggest LC. It takes a little more work but it is the best value out there. I have been using it exclusively for years now and haven't been mad when I lose one or a dozen for almost a decade.
http://www.gibrass.com/brass.html
 
Re: Brass for a class...

I would get the Win, F/L resize and ream the flash holes. Just hold aside any that need trimming for now, and simply load the rest.

I seriously doubt that additional prep work, on a short schedule, is going to make a noticeable difference in your performance during the class. Any additional prep work can wait until you're back home.

I would stick with the 175SMK and optimize my load prior to the class, starting at 45.0gr of Varget and incrementing .3gr downward, maybe also a little bit upward, from there. Don't get hung up on perfection, just go with whichever increment shows the most promise. Let me repeat that, don't get hug up on perfection. The important issue is getting whatever load you choose to be consistent when you pack it for the class.

I never throw out commercial ammo boxes, and for shipping, I reuse them. A case carton from my Guns and Ammo guy makes the perfect shipping container, right size and markings ("ORM-D" and "Small Arms Ammunition"). Ship it out to the class site at least two weeks in advance. Don't try bringing the ammo on the plane; even as checked baggage, the quantity will most likely exceed your permitted ammunition weight allowance.

Gotta say, with current events, if you don't already have the components, you may be looking at supply issues.

Greg
 
Re: Brass for a class...

Pressed for time you may well hve to go with Lapua. There has been no Win brass in the supply system for about 5 months. As, with several other common calibers.

If you could find some once fired BHA Match brass, that is Win brass.

I say you might well consider the Lapua, get Type S Neck Die 336 bushing, and be kind to your brass.
 
Re: Brass for a class...

I don't like to make recommendations like this, but .308 brass is not your only option. Other brass may still be available.

7-08 brass can be necked up by simply running it through the.308 die with the resizer ball.

In a pinch, even .338 Fed can be necked down using the same technique.

Neck wall thicknesses may need checking and neck turning may become necessary, but at least you'll be in a similar boat to my practice of using .243 and 7-08 as parent brass for my .260.

Greg