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Brass from a sold rifle to my current rifle.

Dog Doc

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Minuteman
Sep 15, 2010
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Olathe, KS
Looking for advice. I do not know how much info is relevant so please let me know if more detail is needed on chambers. This is regarding reloading 6.5 Creed. I sold a rilfe with a lot of once fired Hornady brass. I have a GAP chambered rifle that I am hoping to use this brass for. The chamber differences is about 0.003" tighter on the GAP based on Hornady and Forster gauges. So I typically bump shoulders 0.002" for all bolt actions. To use this brass in the GAP, would I need to bump the shoulders 0.005"? This would still give me a 0.002" bump with the GAP chamber. I hope this makes sense.
 
I think you answered your own question. If the sized brass cycles without issues load up some rounds shoot it and see if it ejects smoothly. You may or may not have clickers depending on the chamber size and the base of the brass. Assuming it’s not a tight neck chamber the shoulder bump is roughly .002 and no clickers fire away.
 
I think you answered your own question. If the sized brass cycles without issues load up some rounds shoot it and see if it ejects smoothly. You may or may not have clickers depending on the chamber size and the base of the brass. Assuming it’s not a tight neck chamber the shoulder bump is roughly .002 and no clickers fire away.
I am pretty new to thisl Can you explain clickers and what that means?
 
I am pretty new to thisl Can you explain clickers and what that means?
Ahh no problem, simple answer is if the chambers have different base sizes when you use brass from one chamber to another and the die doesn’t size the base of the brass .200 line enough the bolt clicks at the top when you go to extract the fired case. Here is a better explanation or example from Alex Wheeler.

Only way to know is to test it. If your loaded round goes into the chamber smoothly next step is go out and test fire a few rounds. If you have any issues post I here but it sounds like you should be fine FL size the brass and bump the shoulders .002.

He also has a video on headspace.

 
Measure the fired brass, measure it sized, see where it contacts and at what point you can chamber it.
In this case, the Redding did didn’t take the base small enough to fit the new barrel but the forster die did.
IMG_2434.jpeg
 
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What is the difference in diameter between your old and new chamber? At the base and at the shoulder?
 
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I will check some measurements on the brass as recommended. Unfortunately my caliper died last night and now I have to wait for the new one... Great timing!
 
I agree with the advice above.
Instead of presuming some target bump based on the gages and brass, let the chamber be the gage.
This way, you find the point where the brass barely chambers and you don't over do it.
You may find your extrapolation works, or you may not.
Very slowly size down and see when you can barely close the chamber, while taking close inspections of lengths and diameters.
Then decide if that first cycle should be bumped any additional amount since a sample or two may still leave ones in the batch that will not chamber.
 
Asking questions is one way intelligent people learn. The question seems fair, and the other answers were helpful.

OP's first question was if .003" plus .002" equals .005". OP's second question in a later post was what are "clickers"? Empowering the OP with the resources necessary to solve such complicated mathematical equations seams like a more helpful response. Buy a manual and read it, then read it again.

OP could have just used the search function also.

Old brass in a new chamber:

Clickers:

Thanks for weighing in though, you've really told me.
 
OP's first question was if .003" plus .002" equals .005". OP's second question in a later post was what are "clickers"? Empowering the OP with the resources necessary to solve such complicated mathematical equations seams like a more helpful response. Buy a manual and read it, then read it again.

OP could have just used the search function also.

Old brass in a new chamber:

Clickers:

Thanks for weighing in though, you've really told me.
1693958506878.png
 
For those that provided help I thank you. This thread is exactly why I try to avoid this forum now. To think I do not have reloading manuals and have read them is ridiculous. Please tell me which manual discusses my question asked and I will gladly go read it again. I have also not heard of the term "clicker" before so I simply asked within this thread and in response to the individual who provided that information.
 
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For those that provided help I thank you. This thread is exactly why I try to avoid this forum now. To think I do not have reloading manuals and have read them is ridiculous. Please tell me which manual discusses my question asked and I will gladly go read it again. I have also not heard of the term "clicker" before so I simply asked within this thread and in response to the individual who provided that information.
Ignore them, did you solve the issue? Any updates?
 
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Did you ever measure the fired brass from the GAP? And compare them to the other lot?
 
Did you ever measure the fired brass from the GAP? And compare them to the other lot?
I have this on the list to do when I get back to the 6.5 creed. It may seem lame but I have to make notes to remind me of the things planned! I have kinda made the mistake of working on too many rifles at once regarding reloading and testing.
 
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