i have 60 or so fired cases from my ltr, just got a reloading setup and want to reload for the ltr and another 308, do i need to FL resize or just neck size, the other rifle has a lothar walther barrel bone by hd rifles? any help would be greatly appreciated. also i had some nickel brass from some winchester silvertip ammo? is that any good or should i toss it?
- Thread starter fast freddy
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Re: brass question
Neck sizing is for brass you are using in the same chamber it was fired from. You'll need to keep seperate batches of brass for each rifle if you want to neck size. I keep my 308 boxes labeled for each rifle, and put fired brass right back into the box upside down. Neck sizing is definately better for bolt actions, but you'll have to bump the shoulder after a few firings. Redding body dies are really nice for that, or a regular FL sizer will be fine.
I've never reloaded nickel plated brass, but I've not heard of sny problems doing so.
Neck sizing is for brass you are using in the same chamber it was fired from. You'll need to keep seperate batches of brass for each rifle if you want to neck size. I keep my 308 boxes labeled for each rifle, and put fired brass right back into the box upside down. Neck sizing is definately better for bolt actions, but you'll have to bump the shoulder after a few firings. Redding body dies are really nice for that, or a regular FL sizer will be fine.
I've never reloaded nickel plated brass, but I've not heard of sny problems doing so.
Re: brass question
Full length size.
Full length size.
Re: brass question
+1. FL size.
+1. FL size.
Re: brass question
when you deprime the case does it also reform the case to the corret specs? all i was trying to do was deprime but i got to thinking that i may need to run the case through again to resize the brass what do you think.
when you deprime the case does it also reform the case to the corret specs? all i was trying to do was deprime but i got to thinking that i may need to run the case through again to resize the brass what do you think.
Re: brass question
You need to set the die up properly. Look at the instruction sheet that came with the dies.
You need to set the die up properly. Look at the instruction sheet that came with the dies.
Re: brass question
I got it thanks i should use the kiss method (Keep it simple stupid). i think i got it now i just have to go through that process again. I saw on a thread that synthetic motor oil is ok to use for the case lube. do you think this is a bad idea.
I got it thanks i should use the kiss method (Keep it simple stupid). i think i got it now i just have to go through that process again. I saw on a thread that synthetic motor oil is ok to use for the case lube. do you think this is a bad idea.
Re: brass question
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: kstraughen</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I saw on a thread that synthetic motor oil is okay to use for the case lube. Do you think this is a bad idea? </div></div>
Synthetic motor oil can be used to lube the press, not your dies. If you don't have case lube, you can use paste shoe polish. Not saying the motor oil won't work; some use STP. It's a damned mess to clean off the brass.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: kstraughen</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I saw on a thread that synthetic motor oil is okay to use for the case lube. Do you think this is a bad idea? </div></div>
Synthetic motor oil can be used to lube the press, not your dies. If you don't have case lube, you can use paste shoe polish. Not saying the motor oil won't work; some use STP. It's a damned mess to clean off the brass.
Re: brass question
Synthetic motor lube is FAR to thin to be an adequate lube. The pressure on the brass has to be near/above 58K PSI in order to even form the brass.
Synthetic motor lube is FAR to thin to be an adequate lube. The pressure on the brass has to be near/above 58K PSI in order to even form the brass.
Re: brass question
50 BMG guys use mobil 1 all the time....The only downside is the cleanup.
50 BMG guys use mobil 1 all the time....The only downside is the cleanup.
Re: brass question
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: kstraughen</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I got it thanks i should use the kiss method (Keep it simple stupid). i think i got it now i just have to go through that process again. I saw on a thread that synthetic motor oil is ok to use for the case lube. do you think this is a bad idea. </div></div>
Like some of the guys said clean up would be a bitch plus the stuff stinks. If you wan to get into reloading follow the main stream of using a recognized case lube like RCBS or Hornady One Shot Spray or their equivalent.
Now is not the time to branch out to "learn" in my opinion. Be cautious when you read about alternatives to standard approached in the shooting world. Like the idea of putting H2O2 (hydrogen peroxide) down your bore. It is a great idea if you like buying barrels but it's your call.
I use 30 wt oil on my Dillon 650 per specs and 90 weight on my MEC 9000G shot shell loader per spec. I never stepped up to synthetics because I have not had to go over 7500 rounds between oil changes.
Greg L.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: kstraughen</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I got it thanks i should use the kiss method (Keep it simple stupid). i think i got it now i just have to go through that process again. I saw on a thread that synthetic motor oil is ok to use for the case lube. do you think this is a bad idea. </div></div>
Like some of the guys said clean up would be a bitch plus the stuff stinks. If you wan to get into reloading follow the main stream of using a recognized case lube like RCBS or Hornady One Shot Spray or their equivalent.
Now is not the time to branch out to "learn" in my opinion. Be cautious when you read about alternatives to standard approached in the shooting world. Like the idea of putting H2O2 (hydrogen peroxide) down your bore. It is a great idea if you like buying barrels but it's your call.
I use 30 wt oil on my Dillon 650 per specs and 90 weight on my MEC 9000G shot shell loader per spec. I never stepped up to synthetics because I have not had to go over 7500 rounds between oil changes.
Greg L.
