Brass Spring Back?

[Drewdemon]

Recently I've been measure my brass through each step of the reloading process. I measured before case prep and at the very end and it seems like my cases always come back to 1.555. I just did a lot and before case prep they averaged 1.553. I full size them down to 1.552 then run through the rest of my process. My final case prep measurement is 1.555 again?? This is the 2nd lot that's done that. Any suggestions?

Case prep
1. Deprime/Anneal
2. Full length size
3. Mandrel
4. Trim
5. Wash/Dry

I'm reloading Hornandy factory ammo (6.5 CM - 140gn ELD-M) that I've reloaded 3-4 times.

Thanks

 

[Cayjotiethumper]

I take off the large expander ball and put in the smaller one if you are using a mandrel. Annealing helps with this also.

 

[Drewdemon]

I take off the large expander ball and put in the smaller one if you are using a mandrel. Annealing helps with this also.

I don't use the expander ball, just the mandrel. So is that what, "spring back" is?

 

[shoot4fun]

You need to anneal. Plain and simple.
Brass work hardens and takes a "set" if you will.
Annealing is done to keep that spring back from happening.
Edit: I see you say you do anneal. It must be done properly. You may be not getting the neck/shoulder hot enough or you may actually be overheating.

 

[Drewdemon]

You need to anneal. Plain and simple.
Brass work hardens and takes a "set" if you will.
Annealing is done to keep that spring back from happening.
Edit: I see you say you do anneal. It must be done properly. You may be not getting the neck/shoulder hot enough or you may actually be overheating.

I use annealeez and check via tempilax (399-750) painted on the inside of the neck. The tempilax goes clear after i anneal but maybe i'll try increasing the anneal time.

 

[Cayjotiethumper]

I don't use the expander ball, just the mandrel. So is that what, "spring back" is?

I've had that expander pull the brass back out before-spring back

 

[918v]

Why don’t you bump the shoulder a lil bit more. That way it’ll spring back to what you want.

 

[shoot4fun]

You need to anneal. Plain and simple.
Brass work hardens and takes a "set" if you will.
Annealing is done to keep that spring back from happening.
Edit: I see you say you do anneal. It must be done properly. You may be not getting the neck/shoulder hot enough or you may actually be overheating.

The expander ball performs a process I feel very important to the whole process.
When using brass for tight-neck (turned necks) they are turned uniformly but not so with ANY MAKER'S brass right out of the box. Neck thickness varies around the diameter of the neck, so when you run the brass thru the die without an expander the imperfections get pushed to the inside of the neck. That is where they do the most harm to neck tension and concentricity.
To overcome the drag of the expander ball I use either the carbide balls from Redding or, less costly, Redding dry lube on the inside of the necks. Either way you get a nice smooth, easy pull over the expander and can be sure your neck tension will be correct.
Also, and just what I think I see, the dry lube has actually lowered my rate of unexplained flyers down range.

 

[Cayjotiethumper]

The expander ball performs a process I feel very important to the whole process.
When using brass for tight-neck (turned necks) they are turned uniformly but not so with ANY MAKER'S brass right out of the box. Neck thickness varies around the diameter of the neck, so when you run the brass thru the die without an expander the imperfections get pushed to the inside of the neck. That is where they do the most harm to neck tension and concentricity.
To overcome the drag of the expander ball I use either the carbide balls from Redding or, less costly, Redding dry lube on the inside of the necks. Either way you get a nice smooth, easy pull over the expander and can be sure your neck tension will be correct.
Also, and just what I think I see, the dry lube has actually lowered my rate of unexplained flyers down range.

He said he uses a mandrel which I just started using. The best way in my opinion. shrunk my average down to 1.9.

 

[shoot4fun]

I use annealeez and check via tempilax (399-750) painted on the inside of the neck. The tempilax goes clear after i anneal but maybe i'll try increasing the anneal time.

I find Hornady brass to be difficult to get that "just right" anneal on. It tends to burn off some of the metal (when you see all that yellow flame-up) and the brass will turn a silvery color on the shoulder. I used Tempilac in the early stages of learning the art but no longer do.