Gunsmithing braze, silver solder, weld recoil lug???

[steve123]

I've got a MAK tube gun kit with M700 screwed and glued into it.

When I bought the rifle used years ago it came with a "radial recoil lug" that turns out is funky, "explained later". Earlier this year I bought a action wrench and barrel vice so I can take off the barrel and switch cartridges. A problem I've had in the past with the set up is the barrel loosens after time, a problem which I found the hard way... if you catch my drift, which is why I bought the action wrench. Last time I took the barrel off I noticed the recoil lug has epoxy on one side of it and the epoxy is coming off, isn't that ridiculous, no wonder I've had so many problems with the barrel ??? Anyways one of the barrels is melonited so I can't get it rechambered, it will be replaced in about 6 months or so. The other can be set back when I decide what to do with my situation.

I like the gun and action, it's provided many victories, it works well, been trued-ect, and I'd rather just keep it than build a new rifle. I'm not totally opposed to building an new MAK with a tube gun specific action but it's going to be expensive is all.

So I guess the easy way to go is have a new recoil lug made, or buy one. What material should it be made out of and who would you recommend to do the work? Does it need to be surface ground?

Can I have the new recoil lug permanently attached to the action without damaging it or the action from heat warping, etc from brazing, silver solder or welding???

thanks

 

[LRI]

Off the cuff it would sound like all you'd need is a pinned recoil lug. Meaning it has a slave pin to index the clock position. No need to get a torch near the receiver.

Simple enough job for any well equipped shop.

Good luck.

C.

 

[steve123]

Thanks Chad.

How about the lug itself. Are RL's made of harder steel than barrels and receivers? Is surface grinding important? Is it necessary to have a radial lug or is a aftermarket RL fine for a tube gun?

 

[LRI]

Most recoil lugs are generally made from heat treated tool grade steels. There's a menu of options to the guys producing these things.

Chromoly
416 Stainless
17-4ph Stainless (what I use for our stuff)

I'm sure there are others that I'm not including.

A lug should be surfaced on both sides. Grinding is often the most economical and precise way of handling this. What is also important is ensuring the bore that the barrel tennon passes through is at a right angle to both of these surfaces.

In theory a lug that bears against the stock 360* would be better than one with a single footprint against the stock. In practical applications though I don't think it amounts to much. There are a great number of successful shooters using rifles with very common, well established, build specs.

There's a whole lot of mouse traps with bolt guns. What's "best" can often be whittled down to what's best for YOU.

Good luck,

C.

 

[steve123]

Most recoil lugs are generally made from heat treated tool grade steels. There's a menu of options to the guys producing these things.

Chromoly
416 Stainless
17-4ph Stainless (what I use for our stuff)

I'm sure there are others that I'm not including.

A lug should be surfaced on both sides. Grinding is often the most economical and precise way of handling this. What is also important is ensuring the bore that the barrel tennon passes through is at a right angle to both of these surfaces.

In theory a lug that bears against the stock 360* would be better than one with a single footprint against the stock. In practical applications though I don't think it amounts to much. There are a great number of successful shooters using rifles with very common, well established, build specs.

There's a whole lot of mouse traps with bolt guns. What's "best" can often be whittled down to what's best for YOU.

Good luck,

C.

Great info, thanks!