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Gunsmithing Browning A-Bolt Hunting Rifle problems...

Slowstang

Sergeant
Full Member
Minuteman
Dec 11, 2009
118
0
36
Sacramento, CA
So lately I have been taking out my browning a bolt hunting rifle in 7mm mag trying to see what the rifle is capable of. With some match ammo I'm getting right under 1 moa groups. However, after around 3-4 rounds the required force to eject the round becomes noticibly stiffer and continues to be more and more difficult. I'm not sure if the chamber is just becoming too hot or what the problem is. Any suggestions?
 
Re: Browning A-Bolt Hunting Rifle problems...

Hello slowandsteady, was wondering if you were running Hot loads, sounds like the action is galling or gunking up prematurely no. does it stop when the action cools or is at 3 or 4 rounds always. just fyi brownell's sells a fabulous product called JB non-embedding bore cleaning compound, which can be used to slick up the action with very fine scrubbing properties that will not over work the metal and can also be left in without worry if you happen to not get all of the product out as the scrubbing material will dissolve, if by chance their is some galling or just use it to condition the action. I have used this stuff to take out rust in the bore of my 30-30 winchester and is just an incredible product which is absolutely safe to use. also did you check the torque on all of the screws on the action. and also, excellent products from sentry solutions such as their Smooth Kote Dry gun lubricant & Bore treatment followed by their BP 2000 Dry lubricant Trigger Tuner & Bore Treatment Powder, use the smooth Kote first then follow with the BP powder follow instructions and use very sparringly as a little goes a very long way. These items will work your action to be sexy glass buttery smooth.
 
Re: Browning A-Bolt Hunting Rifle problems...

Thankyou for the reply. I thought it was due to the hot rounds as well. I'm shooting HSM match but then I tried several hunting ammo brands and it's doing the same thing. So at my last outing at the range I would shoot 3 shots give it a couple minutes, shoot three more then let it cool for about twenty minites while I shot my handgun. After it cools it becomes easy to cycle again. I will definately try the products you reccomended. How should I check the torque of the screws? What do I need to do this?
 
Re: Browning A-Bolt Hunting Rifle problems...

What i would do is call Browning's Technical dept, mention to them the style of rifle you have, and tell them the situation your having with the rifle, you should have a very good warranty through them and you can also while you have them on the phone ask them about checking the torque, you should be safe as you are not getting into the rifle all you are doing is checking the torque specs. Do not eye ball or torque by feel (as in this feels tight enough) on the action as that alone can cause you some mishaps. Then call a gunsmith close by as he will have the torque wrenches needed and check the specs at a nominal fee, or might not charge at all. If you do decide to check the specs yourself you will need to call Midway USA @(1-800-243-3220)or www.midwayusa.com, the wheeler torque wrench is $51.99 part#718-023 provides torque from 10 to 65 in-lbs at 5 in-lb increments. I called Brownell's they don't carry the wheeler products, they have magnatip but they range in the couple of hundred. When I called I spoke to their tech support about torque specs and he told me that the torque varies from rifle to rifle usually in the 35-45 in-lb range, and upwards of 65 in-lbs, but are usually in the 35-45 range he also said you would have to play with it, go out there and shoot and see which is best for the rifle by changing torque settings. Set it at a torque setting then fire a string, set it at another setting and fire another string and so on. I myself like i mentioned would give Browning a call and ask them what torque setting they recommend. One important note is when you do find out what the torque is set at and you decide to do this yourself use the wrench and back the screw off just to see how much torque it took to loosen, just to see what the setting was at, then go ahead and tighten to the torque. Mark each screw with a sharpie preferably a fine point so you can see the line clearly, put a line a little outside and onto the stock itself and over the screw, fire a shot then back the screw off a little then retighten what you are looking for is bottoming out or backing off, if the marks don't line up then the screw is tightening further or loosening than when you marked it @ torque, this usually indicates something else is going on, maybe a rebedding is in order as the material has weaken'd somewhat, if it feels solid when you retighten and the marks line up you are good to go. You could also mention this technique to Browning and see what they say, as they may have another recommendation or tell you to go ahead with this. I hate to recommend anything like this, as this is not my rifle, just my idea and thoughts on your particular situation. I hope this helps you. Happy shooting.
P.S, And like i mentioned earlier it may be as simple as a little galling or a little powder residue in the action. If so than the products i mentioned will certainly take care of any cycling issues,and any dirtiness in the action. And will also increase muzzle velocity and reduce fowling in the barrel by an incredible margin www.sentrysolutions.com and the JB Non-Embedding Bore cleaning compound from www.brownells.com ,I believe brownells and midway also sell the sentry solutions products.
 
Re: Browning A-Bolt Hunting Rifle problems...

Thank you for all your help and the high level of detail that you put into your response. I have a lot of things to try and will be ordering the products you recommended.
 
Re: Browning A-Bolt Hunting Rifle problems...

I hope what i suggested was helpful, i think i may have gotten a little bit ahead of myself as the screws that pin the action to the stock would mostly be concerned with rigidness in action to stock contact and overall accuracy. Looking over your original post again, I don't believe it would be related to the cause of the stiffness and difficulty of cycling you stated, but i would check more into what i stated about the possible galling and residue or fouling etc. Again I apologize to you if i seem to have gotten a little side tracked. Any way it still wouldn't hurt to mention it to Browning when or if you disqus this with them, as the response would probably yield excellent information. Keep us posted on what you came up with and how you rectified the problem. Take care.