- Thread starter neeltburn
- Start date
Well, ideally you want a vapor barrier only on the inside wall. Then breathable material the rest of the way out.
Slice holes in the current vapor barrier to allow moisture transfer through the current insulation and add a new vapor barrier on the inside of the new wall framing. No expert here so do your homework.
That’s what I was thinking too….. I was wondering about making a 12”x 12” board with nails poking out spaced 1 inch square and just poking the surface?
I don't do public advise because of all the folks who think they know a lot about things and really don't but if you need some help feel free to pm me
We could all use the education.
I'm happy to help anyone but I don't do so publicly because it will definitely disagree with others who's uncle or whatever built houses one time and blah blah blah.... the region of the country is the first major factor. Very different for different regions
I wish I would have followed that rule early on.
Plan to!
Thank you sir! I will PM you tomorrow when I can do it from my PC and can form out my questions better. Again I appreciate the offer of advice.
First, I would have turned those 2x4s the correct way so at least they would be flush with the (what are they?) 6x6s ?
That is how it appears and without measurements means little.
Then you would have room to run a R16 or better after slitting the plastic liner to allow breathing.
But, that's just me and I haven't built all that many homes.....maybe 75-100 ?
I assume there is only tin outside the existing insulation....no sheathing....right ?
That is how it appears and without measurements means little.
Then you would have room to run a R16 or better after slitting the plastic liner to allow breathing.
But, that's just me and I haven't built all that many homes.....maybe 75-100 ?
I assume there is only tin outside the existing insulation....no sheathing....right ?
1. Previous owner installed those 2x4s. I am framing standard 2x4 walls even with the 6x6 posts.
2. From outside in. Barn Metal. Then insulation.
Your great grand pappy didn't have no insulation!
Get a wood stove and put on some long johns you...
Get a wood stove and put on some long johns you...
If thats metal siding, the plastic backed insulation is your vapor barrier. It keeps the metal from condensing water on the inside during temp changes. (Try telling this to customers when their barn roof is raining on them in November and March 
). Storage units use the same stuff (tenants always wonder why their unit leaks, after they stab holes in the plastic, moving their junk).
If you're going to frame again inside, I see no reason you couldn't use Roxul/Rockwool. Say you frame inside with 2x4; if the space created behind the wall is small, use 2x6 (r23) rockwool, then it would probably snug up to the existing insulation. Larger pocket behind new wall? 2x8 (r32) rockwool.
I probably wouldn't bother if the existing already does it's job. Frame new walls, and use 2x4 (r15) Rockwool. The heat inside would be blocked by the roxul, and the temp of the siding blocked by the fiberglass/vapor barrier sheet. Yes, filling the gap (not too tightly) would be best. If this is a lifetime type of structure, use the most/best you can afford.
). Storage units use the same stuff (tenants always wonder why their unit leaks, after they stab holes in the plastic, moving their junk).If you're going to frame again inside, I see no reason you couldn't use Roxul/Rockwool. Say you frame inside with 2x4; if the space created behind the wall is small, use 2x6 (r23) rockwool, then it would probably snug up to the existing insulation. Larger pocket behind new wall? 2x8 (r32) rockwool.
I probably wouldn't bother if the existing already does it's job. Frame new walls, and use 2x4 (r15) Rockwool. The heat inside would be blocked by the roxul, and the temp of the siding blocked by the fiberglass/vapor barrier sheet. Yes, filling the gap (not too tightly) would be best. If this is a lifetime type of structure, use the most/best you can afford.
