Building my first bolt gun. Requesting Advice.

[RHINO69]

Hey all. I've been training with and shooting pistols/carbines for a bit now but am slowly stepping into the LR space. I am in the processing of building/sourcing parts for my first bolt gun, and I have a few questions. My main question at the moment is, what rings/mount do I need? I understand that pic rail/glass objective play a major part in this, and I am sure a handful of people here have built something similar or identical to what I am currently building. See build list below.

Tikka T3x CTR (6.5CM 20")
KRG Whiskey 3 Folder (non-enclosed)
NF ATACR 4-20X50MM
Area 419 Hellfire

I have not yet sourced/purchased the ATACR and am open to other scopes but I believe I will most likely end up with something that has a 50MM objective. So with that said, I am wanting to know which mount will be appropriate for the build. I'd like to get a Spurh, but am unsure of which one I need to work with this build. I plan on using the CTR's pic rail, not going to a direct mount.

TIA!

 

[redneckbmxer24]

So you’re going to buy a $1200 rifle and immediately drop it in a $1500 chassis. I think you could spend that money much more wisely. At that rate you’re $1500 away from an ATX that you’ll never need to upgrade from and will blow a Tikka out of the water. Or for the same or less money you can put together a rifle on a custom action with a prefit. Immediately sinking $2500+ into a Tikka is pretty crazy to me.

 

[RHINO69]

So you’re going to buy a $1200 rifle and immediately drop it in a $1500 chassis. I think you could spend that money much more wisely. At that rate you’re $1500 away from an ATX that you’ll never need to upgrade from and will blow a Tikka out of the water. Or for the same or less money you can put together a rifle on a custom action with a prefit. Immediately sinking $2500+ into a Tikka is pretty crazy to me.

I picked up the CTR for $825 new, plan on picking up a KRG on/after black friday at a discount, and am sourcing a used optic. So my total cost will be slightly less than what you have laid out. And considering the CTR is easily, without question, a sub moa rifle to begin with, it's only limitation at this point is the caliber. I don't plan on doing much, if any, 1000 yard shooting. But the rifle could still do it.

Without you questioning the purpose of the rifle, I am not really sure what would "blow it out of the water". It will do what I need it to do, at the distance I need to do it at, in a fairly compact size and reasonable price point. ATXs are cool, I wouldn't mind having one. But at this time, I'm not buying one.

If you have any suggestions or advice to the questions I asked, relating to mounting glass, that would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks!

 

[ShtrRdy]

As for scope base and rings i would get a HD rail from EGW and Nightforce lightweight rings.

HD Tikka T3 / T3x Picatinny Rail 20 MOA

Save 10% on a set of Keystone Rings with this rail and get free 2-Day shipping!* Mounting Hardware is Included This Mount Fits:Tikka T3x Superlite CamoTikka T3x SuperliteTikka T3x CompactTikka T3x LiteTikka T3x Lite StainlessTikka T3x Compact Tactical RifleTikka T3x VarmintTikka T3x Laminated...

www.egwguns.com

 

[1911Shootist]

Objective size has almost nothing to do with ring height anymore. The old advice to keep the scope as low as possible is a carryover from pre-ballistics calculator times and for guns without adjustable combs. Nowadays, mount that sucker high so you can get comfy, adjust the cheek riser to meet your ergos. Plug the scope over bore height into your calculator of choice and you're set.

For Tikka, I like the Mountain Tactical rails or Area 419 with the recoil pin, but I've used the EGW and stock options without issue as well. Recoil lugs really aren't needed, they're just a belt & suspenders. The one that comes on the CTR is perfectly fine too.

For rings, I like the Vortex PMR / Seekins rings (same thing), or Vortex Pro Series for a more economical option. You'll probably want something in the 1.0-1.25" range, but it's up to you and your face/posture to determine, not internet weirdos.

 

[RHINO69]

As for scope base and rings i would get a HD rail from EGW and Nightforce lightweight rings.

HD Tikka T3 / T3x Picatinny Rail 20 MOA

Save 10% on a set of Keystone Rings with this rail and get free 2-Day shipping!* Mounting Hardware is Included This Mount Fits:Tikka T3x Superlite CamoTikka T3x SuperliteTikka T3x CompactTikka T3x LiteTikka T3x Lite StainlessTikka T3x Compact Tactical RifleTikka T3x VarmintTikka T3x Laminated...

www.egwguns.com

What is the benefit or main reason of using this, vs. what comes on the CTR? I am not familiar with the differences between the two. Thanks!

 

[ShtrRdy]

What is the benefit or main reason of using this, vs. what comes on the CTR? I am not familiar with the differences between the two. Thanks!

@ShtrRdy - Oops, sorry, I didnt realize the CTR came with a pic rail. Carry on.

 

[HMRamateur]

Depending on the distance you plan to shoot the 20moa rail will better utilize the available elevation in your scope. The CTR rail is 0moa so it has no incline.

 

[RHINO69]

Depending on the distance you plan to shoot the 20moa rail will better utilize the available elevation in your scope. The CTR rail is 0moa so it has no incline.

ah, understood. thank you

 

[hafejd30]

I’d get a 20 or 30 moa rail. Comes with a 0 moa on it. Not sure why they don’t just make a 20 standard on that as it’s beyond what I would consider their standard hunting style firearm

Just curious but why the 4-20 atacr and where do you plan to buy it?

If buying new I’d step into a used 7-35 in the px here. I think you’ll appreciate the extra magnification in the long range department

I own a CTR in 308 and it’s a great rifle. Mines setup as a backup hunting rifle for crop damage. I’ve also owned the 4-20 atacr. Nice optic but I wanted more magnification on the setup I had for my use

 

[FuhQ]

Hey all. I've been training with and shooting pistols/carbines for a bit now but am slowly stepping into the LR space. I am in the processing of building/sourcing parts for my first bolt gun, and I have a few questions. My main question at the moment is, what rings/mount do I need? I understand that pic rail/glass objective play a major part in this, and I am sure a handful of people here have built something similar or identical to what I am currently building. See build list below.

Tikka T3x CTR (6.5CM 20")
KRG Whiskey 3 Folder (non-enclosed)
NF ATACR 4-20X50MM
Area 419 Hellfire

I have not yet sourced/purchased the ATACR and am open to other scopes but I believe I will most likely end up with something that has a 50MM objective. So with that said, I am wanting to know which mount will be appropriate for the build. I'd like to get a Spurh, but am unsure of which one I need to work with this build. I plan on using the CTR's pic rail, not going to a direct mount.

TIA!

You could just buy an Aero Solus Competition chassis rifle in 6.5 CM for like $2K and call it a day, instead of dropping $3K+ on a Tikka/W3 combo, and put that extra $1K towards a really nice piece of glass. The Solus is a custom action with a 60° 3-lug bolt, and has a machined integral 20MOA rail on top, and integral recoil lug.

Aero Precision SOLUS Short Action 6.5 Creedmoor Competition Rifle - 22"

DetailsTake competitive shooting to the next level with the Aero Precision SOLUS 6.5 Creedmoor Competition Rifle. The SOLUS competition rifle is designed specifically for competitive shooting and includes all the features needed to perform at your best, including a match-grade trigger...

www.primaryarms.com

 

[YotaEer]

Since you already purchased the CTR, I would go with a KRG Bravo, Xray or MDT XRS to save some $ and figure out what you like/don't like.
Use the money saved on the chassis to get an ATACR 7-35x. Could also just save money overall and get a Gen 3 Razor or Zeiss S3.

As for a mount, I'd get a set of ARC M rings and an area 419 20 moa rail.

Grab a sterk bolt handle and you're golden

 

[RHINO69]

I’d get a 20 or 30 moa rail. Comes with a 0 moa on it. Not sure why they don’t just make a 20 standard on that as it’s beyond what I would consider their standard hunting style firearm

Just curious but why the 4-20 atacr and where do you plan to buy it?

If buying new I’d step into a used 7-35 in the px here. I think you’ll appreciate the extra magnification in the long range department

I own a CTR in 308 and it’s a great rifle. Mines setup as a backup hunting rifle for crop damage. I’ve also owned the 4-20 atacr. Nice optic but I wanted more magnification on the setup I had for my use

Sounds like I will be replacing the rail, now that I've got a better understanding as to why it is necessary.

As for the optic, it is just sort of where I landed for the ranges I will be shooting at and an ideal quality to weight ratio. Again, I am brand new to all of this so I am sure I am not making the best decisions possible. And similar to your rifle, I want mine to be packable (hence the folder) and possibly used to hunt. I currently do not hunt but I really, really want to start. This rifle is not intended to be a primary hunting rifle, but instead a rifle for me to learn LR with. I know the NF/T3 reticle is far from ideal for hunting applications but I also know it could still work. And since I will be taking precision courses and rarely hunting, I figured why not. And I plan on sourcing the optic used, wherever I can find it (here/GAFS etc.). I do not plan on buying a brand new scope.

And in the case anyone wants to poo poo on the idea of this ever being used to hunt with, I am currently looking for a 6.5PRC or 300PRC as a dedicated hunting rifle. Which is probably unnecessary, since I don't know anyone who can show me the ropes of hunting. But if needed, I'll pay to go on something guided, so I can learn as much as possible before I head out on my own.

 

[hafejd30]

Sounds like I will be replacing the rail, now that I've got a better understanding as to why it is necessary.

As for the optic, it is just sort of where I landed for the ranges I will be shooting at and an ideal quality to weight ratio. Again, I am brand new to all of this so I am sure I am not making the best decisions possible. And similar to your rifle, I want mine to be packable (hence the folder) and possibly used to hunt. I currently do not hunt but I really, really want to start. This rifle is not intended to be a primary hunting rifle, but instead a rifle for me to learn LR with. I know the NF/T3 reticle is far from ideal for hunting applications but I also know it could still work. And since I will be taking precision courses and rarely hunting, I figured why not. And I plan on sourcing the optic used, wherever I can find it (here/GAFS etc.). I do not plan on buying a brand new scope.

And in the case anyone wants to poo poo on the idea of this ever being used to hunt with, I am currently looking for a 6.5PRC or 300PRC as a dedicated hunting rifle. Which is probably unnecessary, since I don't know anyone who can show me the ropes of hunting. But if needed, I'll pay to go on something guided, so I can learn as much as possible before I head out on my own.

I run MIL XT in my NF scopes I use for hunting. Works great. Illumination will be handy though in low light with the magnification backed off

 

[just browsing]

Tikka is fine.
Optic is preference, but fine.

Personally I’d skip the W3 for now. I can’t stand Bravos but I think it’s the better buy in your case. Shoot that for a while, figure out what you like or don’t like, and then decide your best path forward. Much easier to get your money out of that way.

The beauty of Tikkas is that they provide good value and performance for limited investment. They’re especially good for newer guys like yourself. Dropping it right into an expensive chassis somewhat undermines that benefit, especially while you’re still figuring out what is going to work best for you.

I’m not saying don’t eventually get the W3 or build out the Tikka how you want. I am saying learn what works for you first instead of blowing your load up front and regretting that decision later.

 

[RHINO69]

Tikka is fine.
Optic is preference, but fine.

Personally I’d skip the W3 for now. I can’t stand Bravos but I think it’s the better buy in your case. Shoot that for a while, figure out what you like or don’t like, and then decide your best path forward. Much easier to get your money out of that way.

The beauty of Tikkas is that they provide good value and performance for limited investment. They’re especially good for newer guys like yourself. Dropping it right into an expensive chassis somewhat undermines that benefit, especially while you’re still figuring out what is going to work best for you.

I’m not saying don’t eventually get the W3 or build out the Tikka how you want. I am saying learn what works for you first instead of blowing your load up front and regretting that decision later.

I get that. Makes sense and I keep bouncing back and forth between the x-ray and the W3. My thought process behind the W3 is if I can find one used, it shouldn't be hard to get my money back on. Since searching for one, I have learned they are much harder to come by, vs a R700 inlet, and there are quite a few people actively looking for the T3x inlet. Aside from that, I just really want a folder.

But overall, I see that a cheaper chassis is the consensus and I should probably heed the advice received.

 

[FredHammer]

Do not deny yourself the ARC M-brace rings. Bombproof and the easiest rings by which to mount a scope. Once you set level, the rings don't shift the scope when clamping them down. I've mounted shit in my lap before with ARC rings. Can't do that with any other. The ARC lows will mount up to 56mm Obj scopes. Mediums for up to 60mm Obj. With 3/8" above the bore. Run the mediums for 1/2" above the bore on a 50mm Obj.

 

[1911Shootist]

Sounds like I will be replacing the rail, now that I've got a better understanding as to why it is necessary.

I don’t think anyone here has explained why it is (or isn’t necessary).

The ATACR 4-20 has 130 MOA internal adjustment. Take 10 away for margin, 120 cut in half is 60 MOA available up travel.

Assuming your Tikka will be on the slow side shooting 140’s at 2500fps to be safe, 60 MOA will get you to ~1300 yards.

Typically, you want to be using your optic nearer to optical center than at the extremes. So, if you’re doing most of your shooting >1000 yards, by all means go for a 20 (or 40) MOA rail. But, if you’re like most folks that will rarely if ever shoot past 700 yards, that 0 that comes on the rifle will be absolutely fine.

 

[hafejd30]

In my opinion it’s a waste of time to pursue long range and not get at least a 20 moa rail. Why limit yourself from the gate. All you’ll end up doing is wanting to go further down the road and end up replacing/rezeroing down the road.

I did not replace mine above but it’s a inside 500 yard gun primarily and will never see 1000 yards in its lifetime.

 

[FredHammer]

I don’t think anyone here has explained why it is (or isn’t necessary).

The ATACR 4-20 has 130 MOA internal adjustment. Take 10 away for margin, 120 cut in half is 60 MOA available up travel.

Assuming your Tikka will be on the slow side shooting 140’s at 2500fps to be safe, 60 MOA will get you to ~1300 yards.

Typically, you want to be using your optic nearer to optical center than at the extremes. So, if you’re doing most of your shooting >1000 yards, by all means go for a 20 (or 40) MOA rail. But, if you’re like most folks that will rarely if ever shoot past 700 yards, that 0 that comes on the rifle will be absolutely fine.

Exactery. Don't hurt to have that 20 for future or to keep things more optically centered as you said.

 

[1911Shootist]

In my opinion it’s a waste of time to pursue long range and not get at least a 20 moa rail. Why limit yourself from the gate. All you’ll end up doing is wanting to go further down the road and end up replacing/rezeroing down the road.

I'd agree, if it didn't already have a rail on it. Outfitting a new rifle without a rail? Absolutely go for a 20. Throw a 0 into the parts bin and buy a 20 for your first LR rifle that can already reach 1300 without even holding over when being budget conscious in other areas? I can't make that logic work.

I did not replace mine above but it’s a inside 500 yard gun primarily and will never see 1000 yards in its lifetime.

Like the vast majority of guns.

 

[hafejd30]

I'd agree, if it didn't already have a rail on it. Outfitting a new rifle without a rail? Absolutely go for a 20. Throw a 0 into the parts bin and buy a 20 for your first LR rifle that can already reach 1300 without even holding over when being budget conscious in other areas? I can't make that logic work.


Like the vast majority of guns.

I guess it should be added a 20-30 moa mount would serve the same purpose and save the purchase of a new rail. Either way I think it’s a good idea to add the elevation when initially assembling