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Building perfect brass sorting/processing/reloading space

99mpower

99mpower

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Minuteman
Jul 7, 2022
246
165
Chesapeake, VA
Completely setting up “new shop” from scratch

If you were doing it over, what would u do different?

Vacuum recommendations?
Compressor recommendations?
Power/outlets?
How many machines in a row can you handle by yourself?
How far apart?
How would u build the benches differently?

Free rein, starting from scratch. Hit me!!
I have (3) Automated 1050/2000s
Soon to be (2) commercial rollsizers with MA casefeeders
(2) 650s for small batch stuff

Full precision rifle bench that’s a completely different beast (Fx120 trickler, Henderson trimmer, Amp annealer, etc)

Pictures when I get better internet
 
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Ther is a pretty cool machine out there. Think it’s called the “sortinator” or something like that. If I had the room in my room I’d grab one of those. Automatically sorts brass by headstamp.
 
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Getting everything moved around, and all my stuff over there

Big process, but I’m trying

IMG_5735.jpeg
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Baller set up. Lots of space is a good thing.

I would have all the outlets at the height of the top of the bench. Large strips.

All led lighting.

Have one large compressor and run hoses overhead on reels.

One shop vac for each Bench.

If I had the counter space I would have 3 feet in between the Dillon 1050’s.

Floating granite area for the scale above the bench.
 
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rdinak said:
Baller set up. Lots of space is a good thing.

I would have all the outlets at the height of the top of the bench. Large strips.

All led lighting.

Have one large compressor and run hoses overhead on reels.

One shop vac for each Bench.

If I had the counter space I would have 3 feet in between the Dillon 1050’s.

Floating granite area for the scale above the bench.
Click to expand...
I like the granite idea for the precision scale
 
PatMiles said:
I would suggest that you put the safe with it's back against either of the short walls that are on the right or left side of the garage door. Where you have it positioned now can be seen by anybody driving by.
Click to expand...
This.

And, taking it a step further, get window coverings up on all windows ASAP.

Assuming the garage door faces the street, only open it when moving things in or out.

Security, security, security.
 
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99mpower said:
Completely setting up “new shop” from scratch

If you were doing it over, what would u do different?

Vacuum recommendations?
Compressor recommendations?
Power/outlets?
How many machines in a row can you handle by yourself?
How far apart?
How would u build the benches differently?

Free rein, starting from scratch. Hit me!!
I have (3) Automated 1050/2000s
Soon to be (2) commercial rollsizers with MA casefeeders
(2) 650s for small batch stuff

Full precision rifle bench that’s a completely different beast (Fx120 trickler, Henderson trimmer, Amp annealer, etc)

Pictures when I get better internet
Click to expand...
Put an air dryer on the discharge side of the air compressor and water seperators/filters/traps/regulators at each drop.
 
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Threadcutter308 said:
This.

And, taking it a step further, get window coverings up on all windows ASAP.

Assuming the garage door faces the street, only open it when moving things in or out.

Security, security, security.
Click to expand...

Already have WiFi in there, electronic door lock for monitoring and ordering cameras for inside/ouside ASAP
 
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Threadcutter308 said:
230 Vac single phase, I assume ?

You might be money ahead by just buying new.....
Click to expand...

Yeah 230v single… instead of $1500-$1800, pretty easy to find an IR or Quincy in the 800-1200 range

Trying to be smart right now, can’t just blow $10k as much as I want to, getting this set up
 
99mpower said:
Yeah 230v single… instead of $1500-$1800, pretty easy to find an IR or Quincy in the 800-1200 range

Trying to be smart right now, can’t just blow $10k as much as I want to, getting this set up
Click to expand...
Makes sense. But, my point is that unless you get a good used one/are real lucky, you could end up putting more parts/$$ into a used one than what a new one costs. But, it sounds like you have a good handle on things.
 
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One of my desires is to have a comfortable chair that works with my bench height. If starting From scratch, I would condider buying one or more chairs, and building the bench to those, assuming the bench could also be stood at when needed.
 
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Seth W said:
One of may desires is to have a comfortable chair that works with my bench height. If starting From scratch, I would condider buying one or more chairs, and building the bench to those, assuming the bench could also be stood at when needed.
Click to expand...
I agree having a chair/s at the correct height is a must. Mine were an afterthought, and I have 36" high benches, so I ended up buying a drafting chair. It's like a standard adjustable office chair but taller. Switched out the wheels with Amazon-purchased hard rubber wheels like what were on inline skates. Works perfect on concrete floors.
 
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afd77 said:
I agree having a chair/s at the correct height is a must. Mine were an afterthought, and I have 36" high benches, so I ended up buying a drafting chair. It's like a standard adjustable office chair but taller. Switched out the wheels with Amazon-purchased hard rubber wheels like what were on inline skates. Works perfect on concrete floors.
Click to expand...

I’ll have too many machines running to sit at one..

Benches will be waist height, more to accommodate certain containers on shelves
 
Threadcutter308 said:
Makes sense. But, my point is that unless you get a good used one/are real lucky, you could end up putting more parts/$$ into a used one than what a new one costs. But, it sounds like you have a good handle on things.
Click to expand...

Valid points for sure.. appreciate the input
 
99mpower said:
Not my building, or that’s where I would of started..

Unfortunately, not willing to pay that expense since it’s not my building, and I don’t know how long I’ll be in here
Click to expand...
How do you plan to load without AC?
 
I have some pretty good ideas from doing my own new loading room. I think you have a little more room but if you take a look at the "Ultimate Reloading Room" thread you can see mine and many others with great ideas. I'd go check that out, and if you have any questions pm me. Always happy to help another loader.

Also, I don't know the climate you're in but you might be able to set up a window unit and just run it when loading if you had some insulation. Is there any way to work out the owner paying the material cost and you installing it for free as a way to get it done? You then would have a good workable space with minimal cost you couldn't take with you. Just a thought.
 
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BuildingConceptsllc said:
I have some pretty good ideas from doing my own new loading room. I think you have a little more room but if you take a look at the "Ultimate Reloading Room" thread you can see mine and many others with great ideas. I'd go check that out, and if you have any questions pm me. Always happy to help another loader.

Also, I don't know the climate you're in but you might be able to set up a window unit and just run it when loading if you had some insulation. Is there any way to work out the owner paying the material cost and you installing it for free as a way to get it done? You then would have a good workable space with minimal cost you couldn't take with you. Just a thought.
Click to expand...

Northern NC, near southern VA, by coast
 
99mpower said:
Northern NC, near southern VA, by coast
Click to expand...
Ok well you don't have the kind of heat I do in the summer but it still gets hot and humid. Gonna need some way to heat and cool it and keep stuff from rusting. Some craft faced batt insulation and foaming up any cracks and protrusions would be enough with a window unit. I would think the owner would at least listen to taking the material cost off the rent a little every month and you do the labor and you could get that done.
 
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BuildingConceptsllc said:
Ok well you don't have the kind of hear I do in the summer but it still gets hot and humid. Gonna head some way to heat and cool it and keep stuff from rusting. Some craft faced batt insulation and foaming up any cracks and protrusions would be enough with a window unit. I would think the owner would at least listen to taking the material cost off the rent a little every month and you do the labor and you could get that done.
Click to expand...

What rent?!?!? Haha

Text owner and he’s interested in the insulation, after I get the extra wiring I want to get done

R13/R15 shouldn’t be too bad for entire place.
 
99mpower said:
What rent?!?!? Haha

Text owner and he’s interested in the insulation, after I get the extra wiring I want to get done

R13/R15 shouldn’t be too bad for entire place.
Click to expand...
I just assumed since you said you didn't own the building.

2x4 wall the most you can get in it is R15 and I would do that. It's pretty small difference between 13 and 15. Getting the air sealing as good as you can is going to be the bigger deal. If you can get that done you have a really good space there.
 
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Same thing- if you put batt insulation in it, you can also get big netting/screening to staple in place but if it's not yours then craft faced batt insulation is as far as I'd go. Need to use R30 though at least.
 
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Bigfatcock said:
I’d finish the ceiling out too and make it a usable space. That’s one thing the northerners got right.
Click to expand...
Well he'd have to put in actual floor joist vs the truss chords that is there now to do that and northerners have much bigger rafters for snow load, therefore, they can get insulation in them , without having to fur them out to get enough depth to have enough insulation so, that's usually why the difference.
 
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Mini-split was my single best purchase for my shop. It even has a dehumidifier mode for when I don’t need heat/cool. I am running double the needed btu for quick cool and heat cycles. Being a dc compressor it runs at the required speed vs cycling all the time. This also helps with humidity control.

Edit: You can also take it with you when you go if your careful with your installation.
 
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Chris1972 said:
Mini-split was my single best purchase for my shop. It even has a dehumidifier mode for when I don’t need heat/cool. I am running double the needed btu for quick cool and heat cycles. Being a dc compressor it runs at the required speed vs cycling all the time. This also helps with humidity control.

Edit: You can also take it with you when you go if your careful with your installation.
Click to expand...

That’s an idea I hadn’t thought about.

Removing mini-split when I leave
 
If it were me, I'd consider putting 1/2" OSB on all walls and ceiling. It's more durable than sheetrock, and painted white, can look decent. Another probably more expensive option that looks good is metal roofing. It comes in all sorts of colors, and really does look nice in these types of spaces. You will have to pay attention to moisture control, though.
 
99mpower said:
View attachment 8347476

View attachment 8347477


Air filtration and retractable tri-outlet reel, on a dedicated 20A circuit is all done, and overhead wood/rifle case storage complete

That’s all for today. Didn’t get as far as I wanted with wiring, but it’s positive progress
Click to expand...
That's a good idea for rifle cases. I'm gonna do that in one side of my garage. I have 3 bays but only one doesn't have sheet rock on it so I can attach to the joist and put those blasted things up there. I mean, you gotta have em, but man do they take up a lot of room. The soft 3 main ones I use I can keep in my closer for guns but the hard cases need a new home and that's perfect. I don't know why I didn't think of that before, we used to store fishing rods that way... anywho, so glad you posted that!
 
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