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Bulk match .308

BillyNg

Private
Full Member
Minuteman
Oct 30, 2009
212
272
47
Hartsdale, NY
I've tried the Georgia-Arms G308M (168gr BTHP match, they don't specify what bullet it is). I've got a single 0.34 MOA group with that ammo at 200 yards, but 10-round groups routinely measure around 0.8 MOA which is not what this rifle is capable of (S.A.C. built 20" .308). So I want to try some others.

I'm familiar with a few sites that sell other company's ammo, but is there another Georgia Arms out there that I'm missing? (in other words, a reloading business/company that sells direct)? Anything I should be looking at?
 
Thank you, had not heard of Prime before. Will give both loads a try. More than I want to spend, but if they work they work.

Anyone else got anything?
 
Haven’t tried Prime personally, but Federal Gold Medal Match has always been my best performer from my short .308’s.
 
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So many FGMM loads to try. I've tried two so far, and neither was worth writing home about but then again, some of that was likely me (first time out with the gun). Need to start keeping an ammo diary, so will try most/all of the FGMM loads at some point.
 
Prime is too expensive / more than you want to spend?
 
The M118LR bulk stuff is surprisingly good from my AX. Especially when you consider it's .80 per round. I will also give a shout out to McCourt. they're both good options, just depends on what you need.
 
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Prime is too expensive / more than you want to spend?
It is $1.65 shipped per rd. Prime is expensive. FgMM is well under $1 a rd shipped from targetsportsusa. The 175s are just under $1
 
It is $1.65 shipped per rd. Prime is expensive. FgMM is well under $1 a rd shipped from targetsportsusa. The 175s are just under $1
Ammo loaded specifically for an individuals rifle/chamber w/185 Juggernaut is in same price range as Prime.

Did a little testing today.
185 Juggernaut in Win 70 HBV, TBM mags, Mk4 16x, Red Tac gear “tactical pillow”.
McCourt Munitions, Tac Match
View attachment 7092039
100 yds, 5 rds with a “don’t blow it, awww crap, I blew it” shot in there to keep me humble.
View attachment 7092040
200 yds, 5 rds
View attachment 7092041
Tac Match 185 Juggernaut in virgin brass is $1.45 / rd plus actual shipping.
 
168gr and 175gr FGMM (SMK) work best in my 20" .308, but i would guess you tried those already.
i've heard others had better luck with Black Hills, but it is more expensive and i haven't tried it.
 
This shit irritates me. The OP buys an SAC rifle, then wants to shoot junk ammo out of it. You can’t pay bulk price and expect to get handload quality. It’s like buying a corvette and filling it with 87 octane. WTF.

Prime is about the best bang for your buck ammunition. I use Spark Munitions ammo, and it is lights out. I have no problem spending the extra nickel to get quality stuff.
 
People who make assumptions irritate me. I don't want to shoot junk ammo out of it all. I'm also not a moron who wants to spend excessively for ammo if he doesn't have to. I'm looking for consistent 1/2 MOA accuracy out of the weapon system. I have all the equipment necessary to make that happen, all that's left is ammo. If I can find ammo that gets that done at $0.70/round, that's what I'm buying. What so hard to comprehend?
 
$0.70 a round for a true match grade round..... Good luck finding that. I would start to look at loading my own ammunition, but it will still cost you more than that.

one piece of Peterson 308 brass will run you $0.78. Norma, Lapua, and Nosler will be around the same price too.
 
$0.70 was an arbitrary example. I don't think I'm going to find great performing ammo at $0.70, but I think $1.00 is reasonable as there are a lot of match grade choices at that price point. The point is, I'm going to take the least expensive route to recurring costs (ammo) that I can while still maintaining my accuracy standards.

And reloading isn't an options for everyone. I'm one of those its not an option for. And the beauty of reloading is reusing the brass, so no, a round does not start at $0.78. If I use each piece of brass 4 times, my round starts at 19.5 cents.
 
This shit irritates me. The OP buys an SAC rifle, then wants to shoot junk ammo out of it. You can’t pay bulk price and expect to get handload quality. It’s like buying a corvette and filling it with 87 octane. WTF.

Prime is about the best bang for your buck ammunition. I use Spark Munitions ammo, and it is lights out. I have no problem spending the extra nickel to get quality stuff.

I can't speak for the OP but it all depends on what you're trying to do. I guess by your statement here, I'm a fucking moron because I shoot a lot of the M118LR from my AX. It's not just a nickle cheaper and I buy it in bulk. Why should I run my 185 jug load from McCourt through it full time if I'm only shooting to 400 or 600 yards a lot of the time, that effectively doubles my shooting cost.
 
It’s like buying a corvette and filling it with 87 octane. WTF.

And since you went there ....

Higher octane does not boost performance by itself. A fuel's octane rating provides a measurement of a fuel's ability to resist pre-detonation, or what is commonly referred to as "knock". Pre-detonation occurs when the fuel detonates before the spark plugs are given their opportunity to burn the air/fuel mixture in a controlled way. Pre-detonation is violent and harmful to a motor. In older motors where ignition timing was set statically, prolonged periods of knock would permanently damage and could ultimately kill the engine.

A manufacturer designs a motor to run on a certain octane. The major controls for this are compression ratio, ignition timing, and head material (aluminum sheds heat far better than steel). If a manufacturer builds a motor to run on 91 or greater, running your motor on 87 could produce pre-detonation/knock. Modern motors have controls for this and can dynamically adjust timing to light-off the fuel before the detonation occurs, but you shouldn't do that, as the motor is running less efficiently when this happens so you are not getting all available horsepower/torque nor are you getting the best fuel mileage when the motor is in this limp mode.

But an important thing to consider, is that higher octane fuels are harder to burn. They burn slower (and detonate less). This normally means less power and fuel economy, but the extra timing you can run and the extra compression you can get by designing a motor to run on 91+ makes up for the slight reduction in burn rate. However, if you run high-octane fuel in a car that was designed to run on 87, you won't be getting any of the advantage that you'd normally get in a motor designed for high-octane. It will result in you getting LESS horsepower than if you ran 87 octane fuel in that car.

The third-gen Vette only required 87 octane. Running premium in that would be wrong.
 
Just buy @Bdomar 168 grain FGMM or the SGAMMO 175 FGMM and you will have all the ammo peformance you need at what looks to be the cheapest prices going.

If not that buy any M80 you can get your hands on and enjoy the dispersal.
 
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And since you went there ....

Higher octane does not boost performance by itself. A fuel's octane rating provides a measurement of a fuel's ability to resist pre-detonation, or what is commonly referred to as "knock". Pre-detonation occurs when the fuel detonates before the spark plugs are given their opportunity to burn the air/fuel mixture in a controlled way. Pre-detonation is violent and harmful to a motor. In older motors where ignition timing was set statically, prolonged periods of knock would permanently damage and could ultimately kill the engine.

A manufacturer designs a motor to run on a certain octane. The major controls for this are compression ratio, ignition timing, and head material (aluminum sheds heat far better than steel). If a manufacturer builds a motor to run on 91 or greater, running your motor on 87 could produce pre-detonation/knock. Modern motors have controls for this and can dynamically adjust timing to light-off the fuel before the detonation occurs, but you shouldn't do that, as the motor is running less efficiently when this happens so you are not getting all available horsepower/torque nor are you getting the best fuel mileage when the motor is in this limp mode.

But an important thing to consider, is that higher octane fuels are harder to burn. They burn slower (and detonate less). This normally means less power and fuel economy, but the extra timing you can run and the extra compression you can get by designing a motor to run on 91+ makes up for the slight reduction in burn rate. However, if you run high-octane fuel in a car that was designed to run on 87, you won't be getting any of the advantage that you'd normally get in a motor designed for high-octane. It will result in you getting LESS horsepower than if you ran 87 octane fuel in that car.

The third-gen Vette only required 87 octane. Running premium in that would be wrong.

Translation.....match your ammo capability to your environmental abilities and shoot more than you would trying to squeeze the max potential, however unachievable it may be, out of a higher priced option that you may not be able to shoot as much. That's the shit that actually makes you a better rifleman....actually shooting. Also, get off your belly. The real world ain't a prone shooting gallery.
 
Just buy @Bdomar 168 grain FGMM or the SGAMMO 175 FGMM and you will have all the ammo peformance you need at what looks to be the cheapest prices going.

If not that buy any M80 you can get your hands on and enjoy the dispersal.

Appreciate the shout outs. Don't want to get in trouble for shilling myself but I will have some more available next week. If anyone would like any shoot me a PM. Mods plz remove if not allowed in here.