Gunsmithing Butchering a stock for DBM

[Wesek]

Since I have been unable to find anyone locally to do the inletting for my Atlasworxs DBM for me, I am about to butcher my stock myself.

For anyone unfamiliar with the unit it is your typical AICS mag DBM for a Remington 700. It will be going into a Bell and Carlson stock with the aluminum bedding block.

What are the critical tolerances I should be aware of? I have never used an aftermarket DBM unit before, so this is uncharted territory for me.

I'm assuming the key would be to keep the inlet square to the existing pillars and to sneak up on the depth of cut while checking function often. Does this seem to be a reasonable procedure or is there a quicker and easier method?

How much clearance should I leave around the magwell area? Does it matter?

Anyone have a milling machine they'd be willing to let me use for a little while?

 

[hsss]

Re: Butchering a stock for DBM

Id be happy to do that for you.
The block has never been an issue.

If not be sure you get the distance between the action and the bottom metal correct.

James Thomas
High Speed Shooting Systems
(509) 945-6623
07 FFL

 

[mlh29]

Re: Butchering a stock for DBM

I have not done the b and c stocks but have home brewed a few bottom metals into hs stocks.

tools:
dremel, sanding drums, couple grey grinding drums, small jeweleres files, round and flat regular files, hobby sticks, ss 1/4 washers, devcon if you intend to bed it in, painters tape, l3/8 and 1 inch 1/4 x28 allen/ torx head cap screws( usually at any local ace/truevalue) patience

long 1/4 inch bolts threaded into receiver,with tpae centering them in stock holes with the heads cut off to center the bottom metal up the same every time.

tape the barreled action into stock so it cannot move once screw et c are in place.

you painters tape on stock, trace around bottom metal. remove action from stock. I run a sharpie inside the trace line for error margin.
The compounds of stock are easy to remove too fast . I used a dremel with the flexible shaft. used sanding wheels in rough grit until close to lines then went to smooth grit drums. Check fit often. The bedding block is easily shaped as well with the dremel, I used a flat file and a round file to shape mine as it was easier to keep it straight. Go slow take your time, the flexible dremel shaft is worth the money to spend and have.

once you get it close to going in to the stock I used a triangle scraper small jewelers files and a small pocket knife to get the stock fiberglass shaved just enough to fit, then smoothed it all up with fine sand paper around a popsicle/hobby stick.
The alluminum pillars were tougher to get done. I taped the inside edges of stock and all areas around. I used I oversized for the pillar hole drill bit to romove a little material at a time which and then would make the pillar flat again with a round flattened grinding stone pushing down like trying to drill through th epillar wit the stone. I found the drill and grind easier than just grinding as it takes forever.

Check often for correct pillar length and feeding, if you go to far you can shim it back with washers/devcon, most DBM will not sit flush with stock and feed properly keep this in mind.

Also you may wish to use wd 40 or a light oil when sanding the stock, the dust makes a hell of a mess and is easier to contain if wet or do it outside..

Good Luck post some picks when finished

 

[mlh29]

Re: Butchering a stock for DBM

Sorry about the spelling/grammar. I am typing on a ancient computer in Afghanistan. I guess some buttons do not work as intended.

 

[dinc]

Re: Butchering a stock for DBM

The front pillar should be 0.72" and the rear 1.07", just like the Badger Ord. installations. If you get too wild and cut the aluminum bedding block less than this then you'll have to drill the block and install pillars. The critical distance is from the bottom of the action to the DBM.

Part of why the Atlas are cheaper is they have no pillars or screws, you gotta make or buy 'em. The inlet should basically be the same as a Badger DBM. If the stock is cut for a Badger a pocket knife will give you clearance for an Atlas if it is needed at all.

 

[RobG]

Re: Butchering a stock for DBM

James, pm sent re: inletting.

Thanks, Rob

 

[mcfred]

Re: Butchering a stock for DBM

Does anyone have the badger inlet drawing? The one on their website is useless.

 

[TRAAV]

Re: Butchering a stock for DBM

you can email me [email protected] and I will send you the inlet foot print for atlasworxs

 

[Wesek]

Re: Butchering a stock for DBM

Thanks to everyone for the advise.

James: Thanks for the offer. Unfortunately I'm pressed for time or I'd definitely be sending it out to have it done.

DREMEL: The inlet footprint would be an immense help. I'll be emailing you shortly.

I was able to get the aluminum block opened up far enough to accept the bottom metal last night. It didn't need a lot removed, but I didn't measure how much.

Using a Dremel, files and sandpaper on this makes for some slow progress, but it's not too bad as long as you're careful and take your time.

I just hope inletting around the pillars turns out as well. Wish me luck!

 

[427Cobra]

Re: Butchering a stock for DBM

I did my PSS stock myself, if this is the route your going to do I suggest you bed the action first, bedding will ensure you have the correct angle for proper feeding by giving you an exact reference point to measure from when you start cutting the bedding block, after cutting the block to the proper dimension as called out for in your DBM instructions the foam covered outside is very easy to cut, the mag chute needed a little cutting, is was a time consuming endeavor that IMHO is worth the money to pay to have done by someone with the right tools, but it can be done with a Dremel and a Dewalt with a 5/8 spot face bit.

 

[Wesek]

Re: Butchering a stock for DBM

Ok, I got the inletting finished last night with only a few oops along the way. All I have left to do now is cut a screw down and check for function. I'll eventually bed it to fix a few spots where the cutter got away from me. I'll also have to touch up a few spots where the paint chipped around the edges, but with all things considered I think it turned out pretty good.

I completely agree with 427Cobra. This is a project best left to those with the proper tools, i.e. a mill!

 

[bjordan]

Re: Butchering a stock for DBM

tag

 

[desertrat1979]

Re: Butchering a stock for DBM

Absolutely worthless post...................without pictures

 

[THUNDERBOLT68]

Re: Butchering a stock for DBM

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: desertrat1979</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Absolutely worthless post...................without pictures </div></div>

+1

 

[Wardy]

Re: Butchering a stock for DBM

^^^^lol^^^^

 

[Wesek]

Re: Butchering a stock for DBM

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: desertrat1979</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Absolutely worthless post...................without pictures </div></div>

I posted some pics in the "Bottom Metal Alternative" thread, here.

 

[George63]

Re: Butchering a stock for DBM

I hacked out a plastic SPS stock with a router and file in about an hour, then filled the gaps back in with JB weld, could not see paying double what the stock is worth to have it inletted