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Buyer beware before switching to SRP Brass (Pierced Primers)

HoustonB77

Online Training Member
Full Member
Minuteman
Jan 28, 2014
502
156
Nixon TX
I put a new barrel on my Tikka a couple months ago and needed to pick up some new brass. I had heard great things about Alpha Munitions and decided to check into there 260 offerings. After a quick glance at there website I saw that they offered both LRP and SRP brass in 260.

Not knowing witch way to go I decided to give them a call and ask witch one I should buy. The tech and I had a good conversation and he said that without a doubt I should go with SRP. He said they where getting better groups and that I could actually get a little more velocity useing the SRP brass with CCI 450 primers. Needless to say I went with 300 pieces of SRP.

I started with my normal load workup using my A&D FX120i, Co-Ax, and Forster Dies. I'm shooting the 147 ELD and using H4350. I worked all the way up to 43.8 grains with zero pressure signs (100 degree day). Velocity, Accuracy, and SD where outstanding. I settled on 43.3 grains and loaded up 200 pieces SD was under 5 and accuracy was a little less than .5 MOA. For virgin brass I thought that was excellent.

Through the first 50 or so rounds I had zero issues. Then I pierced a primer. I couldn't figure out why and thought maybe it was just a fluke 15 to 20 shots latter same thing. This happened every 15 to 20 shots for the rest of the 200 rounds with zero other pressure signs. I shot several strings over my magnetospeed and the velocity was close to the same weather primers pierced or not. For the last 100 cases I backed the charge off to 42.9 just to see if it was a pressure issue. On the very first round I pierced the primer.

After doing a little research I have found that I may have to get my firing pin turned down and bushed. Who does that and what is the normal lead time? I also called and had a conversation with Alpha. Just wanted to see if the had any other suggestions. They told me the same about having my firing pin turned down and bushed. Sure wish they would have told me that before I bought the SRP brass. I could have saved myself a bunch of trouble and just stuck with Lapua or just bought the Alpha LRP.

Long story short. If you don't have an action with the small firing pin SRP brass might not be for you.
 
I would check with longrifles inc. and see if they bush Tikka bolts. They would probably be the quickest turnaround time.
 
I would check with longrifles inc. and see if they bush Tikka bolts. They would probably be the quickest turnaround time.
Thanks. I have used them in the past on a Remington 700 project.
They don't turn down Tikka's. I may be better off selling the brass and going anther direction at this point.
 
Thanks. I have used them in the past on a Remington 700 project.
They don't turn down Tikka's. I may be better off selling the brass and going anther direction at this point.

did you follow alphas advice on using cci 450s? I had a similar issue that I skated around the firing pin issue with just a primer swap.
 
did you follow alphas advice on using cci 450s? I had a similar issue that I skated around the firing pin issue with just a primer swap.
Yes Sr, I bought 2000 CCI 450s before I even got the brass in the mail. The only primer that may be tougher is a Tula but they are impossible to find here.
 
Yes Sr, I bought 2000 CCI 450s before I even got the brass in the mail. The only primer that may be tougher is a Tula but they are impossible to find here.

Was there any primer flow/ catering on the non pierced primers?
 
Was there any primer flow/ catering on the non pierced primers?
None. I worked all the way up to 43.8 grains with zero pressure. The load I settled on was at 43.3 grains. I also dropped down to 42.9 and had the same issue with the very first shot I fired. My powder charges are measured to the kernel on the A&D FX120i.
 
None. I worked all the way up to 43.8 grains with zero pressure. The load I settled on was at 43.3 grains. I also dropped down to 42.9 and had the same issue with the very first shot I fired. My powder charges are measured to the kernel on the A&D FX120i.

It's the tikka stock bolt set up? what's your firing pin fall and pin protrusion? If pressure is not the issue, then the firing pin and its movement would be the next best place to look before you would scrap the brass and or have to ship bolts out.
 
It's the tikka stock bolt set up? what's your firing pin fall and pin protrusion? If pressure is not the issue, then the firing pin and its movement would be the next best place to look before you would scrap the brass and or have to ship bolts out.
Its the factory Tikka bolt. I did replace the bolt handle but that shouldn't have anything to do with it. I have previously fired over 2k rounds this this bolt and never had an issue on LRP brass.
I have no idea how to measure firing pin fall or pin protrusion. sorry
 
Its the factory Tikka bolt. I did replace the bolt handle but that shouldn't have anything to do with it. I have previously fired over 2k rounds this this bolt and never had an issue on LRP brass.
I have no idea how to measure firing pin fall or pin protrusion. sorry

youtube dude-

just use the end of the calipers for the protrusion, you don't need a special tool.
 
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Thanks. I have used them in the past on a Remington 700 project.
They don't turn down Tikka's. I may be better off selling the brass and going anther direction at this point.

Well shit, the other name that comes to mind is Gre-tan.
 
It says they do sako but no mention of Tikka in either list of what they can or can't do. Might be worth a try or as you said, sell the brass and start over.
 
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I load SRP's in Lapua brass for my Tikka in 6.5 Creedmoor. With standard primers I had cratering even at low pressures. Switching to Magnum 450 primers stopped the cratering. I run 43.0gr RL16 but I have pushed it to 44.0gr with zero cratering. I suspect the primers are still too thin. See if you can buy 100 Federal Gold Medal AR Match primers or some CCi No.41 primers. Should be super hard and may save you from bushing your Tikka bolt.
 
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I had the same problem in my bench gun (6BRX) with multiple primers. I was told by an older gentleman (gunsmith) to try Remington 7 1/2 primers and since I haven`t had another pierced primer. What really sucks is when you are in a match and you pierce enough that you get light strikes and no fire. I would take apart the bolt and empty the particles..... It will cause you to lose your religion!!! So maybe try Remingtons large version of those.
 
I run Peterson srp brass with CCI 450 primers and RE 16 and haven't had any trouble with the factory Tikka CTR bolt and firing pin. I have over 800 rounds on my Bartlien barrel with 140 RDF and 140 ELDM at 2830 fps using 41.4 grains.
 
In ARs they sell a lot of "high pressure" bolts with a smaller diameter firing pin and hole.

I've never had a problem with large primers and a regular bolt. The problem comes in when people shoot SRP brass with a standard size firing pin.

You would think the brass manufacturers would tell you to check your firing pin and firing pin hole size before selling you $300 in brass.

I know a similar story about 6.5 Creedmoor brass. A guy bought a bunch of Lapua brass and got pierced primers. He wound up spending $400+ on a JP high pressure BCG (a $130 Toolcraft would have worked) to fix the problem instead of just getting new brass.

It was a problem that could have been avoided. He wound up with some nice parts and nice brass in the end but his hand was forced which is never the way to do things.
 
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Using a .260 Remington 700 and alpha small primer brass. Using gold medal match primers I've never had any problems with piercing and I haven't had mine bushed yet.
 
In ARs they sell a lot of "high pressure" bolts with a smaller diameter firing pin and hole.

I've never had a problem with large primers and a regular bolt. The problem comes in when people shoot SRP brass with a standard size firing pin.

You would think the brass manufacturers would tell you to check your firing pin and firing pin hole size before selling you $300 in brass.

I know a similar story about 6.5 Creedmoor brass. A guy bought a bunch of Lapua brass and got pierced primers. He wound up spending $400+ on a JP high pressure BCG (a $130 Toolcraft would have worked) to fix the problem instead of just getting new brass.

It was a problem that could have been avoided. He wound up with some nice parts and nice brass in the end but his hand was forced which is never the way to do things.

Yep!!! That's why I started this thread. If I would have known this could have been an issue I would have just stuck with LRP. Alpha had both in stock at the time by the way. I even called and had a conversation with Alpha to discuss pros and cons before ordering. The possible issue was never mentioned and the SRP brass was pushed. My ignorance is not an excuse but you would think they would have at least mentioned it. I also called after they fact and was told that I needed to have the firing pin bushed and tough luck that I bought the SRP brass. Needless to say I just ordered LRP Lapua brass the second go around.
 
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I just went through something similar with a Remington action. One of the issues with punctured primers is that the escaping gases are super hot and can flash cut the firing pin, but over a few rounds probably not significantly to cause a major issue. The bigger issue is what it does to the firing pin spring. The heat will actually begin to anneal the spring so that it loses it's stiffness. Light springs will cause punctured primers so it just gets worse the longer it goes on.

I replaced my firing pin and spring and probably could have gotten by with this, however, I went ahead and had LRI do the bushing install as well just to be sure.

A cheap alternative to going with a bushing or other reloading components may be as simple as getting a new firing pin spring and seeing if that helps.
 
I had that problem with my R700 6mmCM when I went to small primer Lapua brass. I switched primers and have been having good luck with the Federal "AR" Gold Metal Match small rifle primers.
 
Yep!!! That's why I started this thread. If I would have known this could have been an issue I would have just stuck with LRP. Alpha had both in stock at the time by the way. I even called and had a conversation with Alpha to discuss pros and cons before ordering. The possible issue was never mentioned and the SRP brass was pushed. My ignorance is not an excuse but you would think they would have at least mentioned it. I also called after they fact and was told that I needed to have the firing pin bushed and tough luck that I bought the SRP brass. Needless to say I just ordered LRP Lapua brass the second go around.


I would try Remington 7 1/2 primers just to see what happens.
 
I have never seen anyone use a charge weight that high with H4350, with 140s let alone 147s. I would bet it is well over pressure.
Especially with Alpha brass, which has much higher brass content and lower case volume. Even Alpha states they have less case capacity than everyone else due to their brass content of the their cases. I wonder what the velocity is on the OPs load?

I have a 43.0gr H4350 load under 140 HVLD in my 6.5SLR, but that is my hot hunting load using Rem R-P brass. I run 41.5 in it usually.

42.0 in my .260Rem. with Lapua brass and 140 HVLDs.
 
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Especially with Alpha brass, which has much higher brass content and lower case volume. Even Alpha states they have less case capacity than everyone else due to their brass content of the their cases. I wonder what the velocity is on the OPs load?

I have a 43.0gr H4350 load under 140 HVLD in my 6.5SLR, but that is my hot hunting load using Rem R-P brass. I run 41.5 in it usually.

42.0 in my .260Rem. with Lapua brass and 140 HVLDs.

I worked all the way up to 43.8 grains with zero pressure signs on a 90 degree day. Velocity was 2862 over a 10 shot group on my magnetospeed at 43.3 grains.
I also backed off to 42.9 just to see if it maid any difference. Same thing. About 1 out of every 10 would pierce. Velocity was about 2820 with the 42.9 load.
 
I worked all the way up to 43.8 grains with zero pressure signs on a 90 degree day. Velocity was 2862 over a 10 shot group on my magnetospeed at 43.3 grains.
I also backed off to 42.9 just to see if it maid any difference. Same thing. About 1 out of every 10 would pierce. Velocity was about 2820 with the 42.9 load.

My mistake for some reason i thought this said 6.5 creed when i read it initially. You're fine.
 
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Found someone on google that does the bushing & turning
 
Just got 50 SRP Peterson 260 brass. Really hoping I don’t have pierced primer problems.
 
For curiosity sake, if you are interested, I'll run this on Quickload. I'll need H2O case volume and seat length.