Suppressors Can I cool a hot supressor in water?
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You can. I've seen people do it. That said I definitely wouldn't touch that idea with a 10 foot pole. It's a really really bad idea.
I'm not a metallurgy expert but quenching hot metal like that, especially something that needs to withstand high pressure is a really bad idea.
I'm not a metallurgy expert but quenching hot metal like that, especially something that needs to withstand high pressure is a really bad idea.
Think warpage
You ever seen forged in fire and how the judges react when they quench in water?
so use oil instead?
I have thought about it. Im no expert and my inclination is that its probably not good. I cant find anywhere it explicitly says don't do it.
I've heard from surefire sales reps that you can dunk their cans in water. I watched him pour a bottle of water on a can until it was safe to touch after a couple mag dumps so I'm inclined to believe him. I don't have any cans though so I'm no expert
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The only time you should put a suppressor in water is when it's cold to prevent first round pop. At least that's what the Surefire manual for my RC2 says this. Other suppressors i camt soeak for.
Hot metal that's 300-600+ degrees from a heavy firing schedule... I'd rather let it air cool for a while.
I'd call the manufacturer of your suppressor to get guidance vs. Turning to strangers on the internet who aren't the manufacturer of your equipment.
Call manufacturer of your suppressor and ask them.
If hot enough you can cause stress cracks, break welds and cause warping depending on the materials.
Think about it, metal expands when hot, dunking will rapidly contract tube while baffles are still expanded. Also quenching can harden and make brittle metals. Most heat treatment to avoid brittleness is to slowly and evenly cool it.
Under what circumstances do you want to cool it with water? There may be better options like a good high temp cover or store wrapped in towel while it cools for transport.
If hot enough you can cause stress cracks, break welds and cause warping depending on the materials.
Think about it, metal expands when hot, dunking will rapidly contract tube while baffles are still expanded. Also quenching can harden and make brittle metals. Most heat treatment to avoid brittleness is to slowly and evenly cool it.
Under what circumstances do you want to cool it with water? There may be better options like a good high temp cover or store wrapped in towel while it cools for transport.
Not necessary if you buy a pair of welding gloves and a small welding blanket. I move my suppressors around all the time irrespective of how hot they are, with a good pair of welding gloves. Couldn't even imagine dropping a hot suppressor into a bucket of cold water. Makes me cringe just thinking about it.
Because it's a friggin hazard and it melts anything it touches. And Ive melted just about everything. tires, bumper, range bag, back seat, my hand, random shit. plus sometimes I want to switch between rifles and not wait.
im shopping for a cover. in the mean time now I have to carry a welding glove and blanket in my range bag.
Everyone I know does some combination of waiting, using a welging glove, oven mit, bbq mit or whatever. A bbq or silicon oven mits works for both handling and storage on the way home
Suppressors get hot, in some cases like SBRs and mag dumps, stupid hot. Only your manufacturer can tell you if they will repair a suppressor dumped hot into water if it is damaged. Common wisdom is it is a very bad idea.
Suppressors get hot, in some cases like SBRs and mag dumps, stupid hot. Only your manufacturer can tell you if they will repair a suppressor dumped hot into water if it is damaged. Common wisdom is it is a very bad idea.
I have a little fan also and do the same, also great for keeping glasses from fogging in humid South Florida. Not sure how much it helps the suppressors, still roll in a towel in addition to their covers to transport.I take a small fan with me, I blow as much air through it as I can before putting it away, I also use it to cool down barrels etc... I get weird looks, maybe it's my face or the fan
+1 on the extra towel
Yes, this, and don't do it often even if the manufacturer allows it.
There are a variety of ways to handle hot suppressors, and virtually any of them will be less stressful to the can.
Make yourself a Maxim style water jacket with circulating ice bath using a solar pump. No dunking needed.
Or get a portable 12 inch fan. Takes about 4 minutes to cool down.
Or get a portable 12 inch fan. Takes about 4 minutes to cool down.
I wonder if manufacturers looking for military sales consider or design for this.
air mattress pump cheaper than chamber chillers and work far better
just a few
most are loud but who cares it's a firing range guns are louder .
just a few
most are loud but who cares it's a firing range guns are louder .
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Get a can cover. Tons of companies make them. They have been out for years and work just fine at allowing you to grab and change or take off and protect everything else from the heat. Pic below was using one back in 2008. They work. I would never dump a can in water to cool it. Better options out there.
I am not saying this is smart or safe but I have dunked a surefire socom and an acc 7.62 sdn in a lake, pool, and a bucket water.
Both these cans are still going strong but I won’t ever do it again because of the issues mentioned above in this post.
I have since had Ecco redo the mount on the sdn-6 and he had no problems.
These cans were both hot as hell after being on my m16.
Now I just set them out of the way and let them cool naturally while being mindful not to get them near something that can catch fire.
Both these cans are still going strong but I won’t ever do it again because of the issues mentioned above in this post.
I have since had Ecco redo the mount on the sdn-6 and he had no problems.
These cans were both hot as hell after being on my m16.
Now I just set them out of the way and let them cool naturally while being mindful not to get them near something that can catch fire.
I'm not going to tell you it's harmless, but I do it often with no ill effects. I'll make more money and if I have to pay for repairs or a new can... I'm living this life at below 100% efficiency regardless so....
Not loud, but very high pitched which is magnified with electronic ear pro.
Drives some folks NUTS
I mean, you can do it, but you'll most likely destroy a thin-walled titanium can with hairline fractures, and it will blow up the next time you shoot it. I damn-sure wouldn't try to rush the process, other than maybe a barrel cooler that pushes natural ambient air through it, like the MagnetoSpeed barrel cooler fan.
My recommendation (as a 20 year welder and metal fabricator) is to stop looking at dumbass ways to solve a VERY simple problem... You got 2 logical options...
1.) Either stop shooting it long enough to let it cool down enough to put it in your truck where it won't melt or burn shit, or...
2.) Like Rob said... Get a good high-temp suppressor cover.
And if you buy one off of Amazon, make sure it's for a REAL suppressor, and not some queer-ass airsoft bullshit. A good cover will cost you $75+. The cheaper ones aren't for real guns, and will melt all over your suppressor and ruin the finish. I've seen it happen from other idiots at the range.
My recommendation (as a 20 year welder and metal fabricator) is to stop looking at dumbass ways to solve a VERY simple problem... You got 2 logical options...
1.) Either stop shooting it long enough to let it cool down enough to put it in your truck where it won't melt or burn shit, or...
2.) Like Rob said... Get a good high-temp suppressor cover.
And if you buy one off of Amazon, make sure it's for a REAL suppressor, and not some queer-ass airsoft bullshit. A good cover will cost you $75+. The cheaper ones aren't for real guns, and will melt all over your suppressor and ruin the finish. I've seen it happen from other idiots at the range.
DO NOT buy a cover off Amazon. Knock off central & lots of cheap sh*t.
Pay a few $ more and get it from the manufacturer.
Armageddon Gear, TAB, Precision Underground, Coletac, are popular.
I find it useful to be able to pull the cover back onto the barrel between strings (like foreskin) to allow the metal of the suppressor to cool.
Pay a few $ more and get it from the manufacturer.
Armageddon Gear, TAB, Precision Underground, Coletac, are popular.
I find it useful to be able to pull the cover back onto the barrel between strings (like foreskin) to allow the metal of the suppressor to cool.
All these experts here have failed to explain the obvious:
It's all about temperature. The comparisons to dunking a knife at critical temperatures which literally creates a molecular change is something you'll never be able to accomplish without dumping a combat load on full auto as fast as you can cycle mags. Don't do that.
If it's hot to the touch, like you shot 10 rounds in a reasonably short period of time, water won't hurt anything. If you dumped a couple mags as fast as you can, (stop wasting ammo), and wait a few minutes before cooling. It takes significant heat to warp stainless or titanium with a quench, not normal suppressor operation.
It's all about temperature. The comparisons to dunking a knife at critical temperatures which literally creates a molecular change is something you'll never be able to accomplish without dumping a combat load on full auto as fast as you can cycle mags. Don't do that.
If it's hot to the touch, like you shot 10 rounds in a reasonably short period of time, water won't hurt anything. If you dumped a couple mags as fast as you can, (stop wasting ammo), and wait a few minutes before cooling. It takes significant heat to warp stainless or titanium with a quench, not normal suppressor operation.
Ice water would be better than regular water.
Yeah, I didn't explain much with my post but that's always been my assumption. With SS cans you've gotta really get them going to get them hot enough to do anything to change the properties-- and that's a tempering thing, not a phase change that a quench will alter.
Ti, I'm not especially well versed in.
Either way, yes you're moving the material (expand/contract) and you can cause cracks to form... but every shot you're also introducing it to 10,000-40,000 psi 3000 degree gas, so... I don't know. I don't think there's a hard and fast "yes it's okay" or "No it'll break" somewhere inbetween depending on the circumstances, but as a general perception/opinion I don't think you're going to turn it into glass dunking it from 200-300 deg F.
You do realize that some legit manufacturers actually sell their products through Amazon. For example... Rifles Only Gear has their own Amazon storefront.
Take a flat cookie sheet, put it on your BBQ grill, till the cookie sheet gets NICE AND HOT. I mean when the grill actually starts burning the grease off hot.. set sheet on ground. Notice it is still flat. Next, dump a bunch of ice on it. Watch ice dance around and sizzle. wait till metal cools. Please note, cookie sheet isn't flat anymore.
Not my suppressor. but, after waiting almost 2 years for it, I'll be damned if I take the chance.
good luck.
Not my suppressor. but, after waiting almost 2 years for it, I'll be damned if I take the chance.
good luck.
You need to make sure you are buying from the actual company that makes the products on Amazon. I.E. Rifles Only store (if they do in fact have one).
I personally never buy anything of value off of Amazon. There are a lot of fakes on Amazon, and Amazon does nothing to prevent the selling of fakes, just ask @Kasey. It's why Nike doesn't sell any of their products on Amazon.
Also, RiflesOnly ships really fast. I buy a lot of stuff directly from them off their website, and it usually arrives in 2 days.
Okay, that’s fair. It’s really annoying.
That comparison is about as relevant as saddle leather is to spaceships.
You're talking about heating junk thin mild carbon steel to 500° and rapidly cooling it.
Most of you probably don't realize that a normal oxy/ acetylene torch won't even cut stainless steel.... like at all. Stainless and titanium are used for these things because of their properties including how they handle heat. I'm not suggesting anyone do anything, because I really don't give a shit, but these comparisons are ridiculous.
Buy right tool for the job.
www.tabgear.com
(SAS 1,2,3,R) Suppressor Anti-Mirage Shield
Protects you, your can, and your equipment. **DO NOT SUBMIT MEASUREMENTS FROM A WEBSITE. PHYSICALLY MEASURE AND CONFIRM WITH THE SUPPRESSOR THAT WILL BE COVERED.** Designed to prevent mirage from obscuring your site picture after multiple shots. Eliminating mirage is accomplished by the use of...
www.tabgear.com I have verified, Rifles Only Gear does have their own legit store on Amazon.
Those are the covers I use, so I get free 2-day shipping with my Prime Membership. I haven't bought direct from them, I always bought them directly from Dead Air (Dead Air brand, but made by Rifles Only Gear for Dead Air).
I wood say no bc the welds won’t last over time with the rapid thermal expansion and compressing like that. It may also warp the metal and do some other stuff. But idk maybe he doesn’t care about long term metallurgy if he form 1s them.
I would be curious to know what the Test Operations Procedure was regarding submersion for KAC's M27/M4/M4A1 USMC issued suppressors.
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I'm going to tag in our local suppressor manufacturers, I bet they have good insight on this...
@Zak Smith @TBACRAY
@Zak Smith @TBACRAY
Steel you wife’s pot holder and you be just fine
The navy seals use suppressors but according to the responses on here I'm just supposing they hold them above water so they don't have a failure. lol
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