Can You Overtighten Scope Ring Screws at The Base?

[coderz]

Ok, so I've mounted scopes and never had an issue. Just got a new rifle with a picatinny rail and I'm using Vortex rings. I've ALWAYS followed manufacturer's specs to tighten scope rings around the base of the actual rifle rifle/optic which is usually 15-18 inch pounds.

Vortex says the base rings though that attach the base to the rail should be tightened to 40 inch pounds. In the past I've always tightened these screws at base parts on rings an cantilevers as tight as I generally can (probably way beyond 40 inch pounds).

While I'm not saying that's a good idea or not, I've never damaged anything or noticed a difference in accuracy. Is it a problem to tighten these base screws for rings and cantilevers (not the top closure of the rings that go around the scope) just the base rings too tight?

 

[TheOE800]

I imagine it depends on mount material and whether the female threads are steel or not.

 

[max1840]

Follow the mfg's instructions and all should be good. Don't be like me who's never met a screw or bolt I couldn't strip or snap. Like my friend always told me "your veins are popping, pump the brakes man"

 

[Cccook8]

Follow the torque specs. Screws and threads can give out fairly easy. I broke a few screw heads in my younger years while installing bases and it’s never fun to deal with.

 

[iceng]

Rare, however over tightening can deform pic rails, depending on the brand or shape. 99% of rails if fine to get up to 60 inch pounds. Not reccomended, just saying if tested it one ones I've made. No issue.

Chyna-cheese grade.. yup, you can certainly crush and deform them.

 

[Quick1]

Bottom line is yes, you can overtighten and cause damages as described above. The most common is stripped screws or holes. which I have done and it sucks. I tend to have a guerilla grip and moved to using a torque wrench for ALL my gunsmithing to save headache and money. I have both the Vortex torque screw driver and a set of fix-it-sticks, both of which work great. Recommend getting them or something similar for your gunsmithing, it will save you time and money in the end. Good luck!

 

[Rob01]

Depends on the rings. The Vortex/Seekins PMR rings for ring to base is 55 in/lbs. There are other rings which are 65 in/lbs like Badger, Warne Mountain Tech etc. Some other rings like the Vortex Pro Series are 30 in/lbs. Just follow the ring directions.

And no 65 in/lbs will not damage the picitinny rail base unless it's a cheap garbage rail.

 

[Glassaholic]

Here's some specs I've picked up:
Ring/Mount to picatinny base – ARC M10: 55 in-lb | Spuhr: 45 in-lb | Badger: 65 in-lb | Nightforce: 68 in-lb

If you plan on remounting your mount/rings after removing I'd highly recommend using a torque wrench so your return to zero RTZ is pretty close if not right on the money...

 

[reelserious]

over the years i have learned to light up a bit from the big time torque but I use loctite on everything

 

[Ronws]

I go by the specs, mostly. And I have stepped away from the loctite and it's tendency to flake and crack. The fine folks at Arken turned me on to Vibra Tite and I use that, when necessary, like on the set screws of their turrets.

The only time I fudge is on the rings torque. Vortex rings will say 18 in-lbs. I tighten to 20. Also, I mount the rings so that the front ring is just behind the objective bell. This stops rearward movement. I believe in good and proper torque. The problem I had with Mossberg Patriot and Patriot Predator synth stocks is that there is a gap in the guide for the rear action screw and they use the mag well as a shim. And you simply cannot torque down to what you need, which allows some movement in the rear of the action. That is one of those rifles that you must assume that you will trash the stock and put it in a Boyds or something and put in some decent bedding or, my preference, a chassis.

 

[supercorndogs]

Turret set screws are on the list of things I have never even thought about putting thread locker on.

The rings being tight and making good contact with the tube stop movement. There is no need to try to use part of the scope body as a stop.

 

[Rob01]

There should be no need for loctite on the rings either. The only place I put loctite on on the whole rifle is the base screws and it's a little blue. Only there as it's tougher to access with scope on. Useing a ring up against the turret housing to stop movement is worrying way too much and if that is needed then you need better rings.

 

[Quick1]

Recommend ARC M-Brace scope rings and make it easy on yourself. I switched all my rings over to these and mounting a scope has never been easier. Two screws, worry about scope shifting while tightening, no lock tight, super easy and rock solid. And yes, I know they are expensive, but well worth it in the end.

 

[roostercogburn98]

Seen an AMU armorer break a Badger ring on an M24 at the range once while over tightening it. Put a new set on and zeroed the gun with no issues. No damage to scope base at all.

 

[supercorndogs]

There should be no need for loctite on the rings either. The only place I put loctite on on the whole rifle is the base screws and it's a little blue. Only there as it's tougher to access with scope on. Useing a ring up against the turret housing to stop movement is worrying way too much and if that is needed then you need better rings.

Same but I use finger nail polish, as thread locker I mean.

 

[Gil P.]

I've snapped the heads off seekins ring clamps because I tightened then to 65 in lbs. Always follow the mfg specs.

 

[shootrj2003]

Most times overtightening stuff is the problem,it seldom needs to be as tight as guys think,just enough. I broke a few screws till I adjusted MY torque