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Can't zero scout scope on Springfield M1A

Woodkearne Farm

Private
Minuteman
Dec 14, 2021
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I purchased a Springfield M1A SOCOM16 this summer. Love the rifle. Bought a Vortex Crossfire 2 Scout to mount on it. The scope is level,the rings are the lowest profile that will work. I can't adjust the scope down far enough to zero at 25yds. It will adjust up for days. I've seen folks using this combo all over the internet with no problems. Is this a problem with the scope,or am I missing something? I'm relatively new to optics,so forgive me if I'm missing something obvious. Thanks in advance!

P.S. Iron sights work great. I put my first rifle buck in the freezer with it a few weeks ago!
 
Expound? I'm new at this...
 

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To clarify what you should be doing: shoot a paper target at your chosen distance of 25 yds, then adjust the reticle to match the bullet Point Of Impact/POI... Is that what you're doing when you find you don't have enough downward adjustment?

ETA: Obviously you should be ignoring the iron sights while zeroing your scope- are you sure the front sight isn't obscuring your view through the scope?
 
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Were the rings torqued to the picatinny rail before the scope was torqued in the rings? If the scope is not properly installed it could cause that. Both rings need to be flat on the mount to start with.

Also make sure the rings are on the tube and not where the scope starts to expand. Your rear ring is very close to eyepiece, I'd move it forward one notch.
 
Yes to your paper target question. Iron sights are not visible when looking through the scope. I made sure that the rings weren't too tight. Do you think moving the rear ring forward on the rail will help? If so,why? School me!
 
If you can slide the scope forward a bit in the rings, that should effectively change the angle and result in the reticle being lower- unless my logic is wrong. Shimming the back ring should result in the same.
 
I'm not sure how you have that scope mounted....

Here is what you need to properly mount a scope on an M1A

 
The shim will work because you are changing the angle created by the scope and the rifles bore.
Sliding the scope in the rings will not change that angle.
If you can slide the scope forward a bit in the rings, that should effectively change the angle and result in the reticle being lower- unless my logic is wrong. Shimming the back ring should result in the same.
 
Take the action out of the stock and make sure that scope mount isn't clamped too far back and is against the radius on the barrel. It looks like it needs moved forward a bit. It's also extremely important that the 6 screws that hold the mount to the barrel are tightened and torqued evenly. There will also be 2 pointed set screws, make sure those aren't protruding and touching the barrel before the mount is tightened.

What power is that scope, and how much internal adjustment does it have?
 
I'm not sure how you have that scope mounted....

Here is what you need to properly mount a scope on an M1A

The scope is on a scout mount that is clamped to the barrel. It works when it's properly installed. Mine holds zero just fine and is accurate enough for a Scout M14.

Sadlak is a good brand, but it won't work with a scout or long eye relief scope.
 
The scope is on a scout mount that is clamped to the barrel. It works when it's properly installed. Mine holds zero just fine and is accurate enough for a Scout M14.

Sadlak is a good brand, but it won't work with a scout or long eye relief scope.
Glad I never had to go with a barrel mount.
 

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Nobody has to go to a barrel mount. It's a choice, and for a Scout style rifle is necessary. I also own a Glen Nelson built Supermatch with an ARMS scope mount. In my opinion it's a better mount than Sadlak or Smith Enterprise.
 
Yes to your paper target question. Iron sights are not visible when looking through the scope. I made sure that the rings weren't too tight. Do you think moving the rear ring forward on the rail will help? If so,why? School me!
The scope tube has nice parallel sides and the rings are intended to clamp on that perfectly cylindrical shape.

Close to the eyepiece and objective the scope tapers wider. If your ring is not on the truly cylindrical part of the tube, the scope could be a bit off.

I'd move the rear ring forward to be sure it is on the tube. You have the room.