Canted action

[vaeevictiss]

Curious if this is a big deal. Just noticed it while cleaning the rifle. I apparently didn't bed the action perfectly center.

You can tell it's just barely tilted. It's not bad enough to where the trigger is no longer in the guard, and is barely noticeable.

The rifle will shoot 1/4 inch or better at 100 yds all day but id be concerned with longer ranges. I'm guessing scope tracking is going to be my big issue.

I'm just afraid if i grind out the lug area and rebed that little bit it won't shoot right again lol. I finally got it just right and was afraid to even take it out of the stock haha.

Sent from my Galaxy Nexus

 

[oldfatguy]

Shooting 1/4" or better at 100 yards? So why would want to change anything? If your scope is level with your rail a canted action won't matter.

OFG

 

[SuburbanHick]

Shooting 1/4" or better at 100 yards? So why would want to change anything? If your scope is level with your rail a canted action won't matter.

OFG

^^^^ agreed... if its shooting that good just make sure the scope is level... should in theory be fine

 

[vaeevictiss]

Shooting 1/4" or better at 100 yards? So why would want to change anything? If your scope is level with your rail a canted action won't matter.

OFG

I wasnt sure how that could affect tracking since the scope technically isn't directly above the bore, even tho it is level... Or am i wrong about that

Sent from my Galaxy Nexus

 

[oldfatguy]

I wasnt sure how that could affect tracking since the scope technically isn't directly above the bore, even tho it is level... Or am i wrong about that

If your scope is level with the rail and the vertical cross hair is plumb when you get behind the rifle then the scope will be over the bore and it is the stock that is canted. Should not be a problem.

OFG

 

[vaeevictiss]

Ahh i see what you are saying... Probably explains why i needed to extend the one bipod leg just a hair.

Sent from my Galaxy Nexus

 

[Pinecone]

It still doesn't matter if the scope is not over the bore, as long as the scope is level with the world.

Think about it. If the scope was 1/4" off being over the center of the bore, it would should 1/4" off to the size from the muzzle to infinity.

And a 1/4" is a LOT of offset.

 

[jdgray]

The reticle must intersect the bore..... Good read in the link.
Leveling the Scope Reticle for Long Range Rifles

 

[Ledzep]

The reticle must intersect the bore..... Good read in the link.
Leveling the Scope Reticle for Long Range Rifles

Not really. It doesn't absolutely have to intersect. So what if it's 1/8" off to the left, for example. Your fidelity in zeroing is only 1/4" to .36" at 100yd (for your 100yd zero, double for 200yd zero). If there is any wind at all, it's a moot point. Even with it intersecting you could wind up with a 1/8 MOA windage offset because of your lack of fidelity in adjustments.

What is important is that the elevation turret (not necessarily the reticle, though with most high(er) end optics they are fairly well aligned) is square to gravity. That is what makes your adjustment to compensate for gravity, so it should be square to it.

Obviously all of that other stuff is ideal to have square to the rifle/rail/bore etc... but it is not as critical, and your offsets will be marginal at best. Like I said with any wind involved you'll have much bigger fish to fry.

 

[jdgray]

Its only important if you dial up for elevation...
If you zero a crooked, unlevel scope, and never touch the elevation, it don't matter.

 

[Ledzep]

Its only important if you dial up for elevation...
If you zero a crooked, unlevel scope, and never touch the elevation, it don't matter.

Actually, it does matter. Whatever you're using to adjust for gravity, be it reticle, elevation turret, adjustable base etc... it all needs to be level with gravity.

If you zero at 100yd with your scope canted, then right it to shoot 600yd with a BDC or mil/moa holdover, you will have windage issues. Might not be huge, but the bullet still falls 2-4" over 100yd to get your zero, so anything out of line with that will cause an offset at longer distances.

Small physical offsets are usually pretty minimal and their angular size diminishes as range increases. Small angular offsets (canted reticle, bad zero etc.) grow the further out you get.

 

[jdgray]

Everything should be square, level, in order for dial ups to fall where your x hairs are aimed. A level on the scope is a must too. If you look at the link I posted, the pic with the target at 100yrs, with the dial ups falling off to one side, will get worse as the target is farther away. Everything must be square to the bore(and level to the fall of gravity) so you don't have to add windage as you add elevation.

To the OP...
A canted action in the stock wont matter if the scope is true to the bore, and x hairs are held level. If your scope is canted to the bore, you will have to add windage as you add elevation...