I've got a R700 in 6.5cm. The rifle has 600ish rounds through it. I have shot hornady American gunner 140gn exclusively. Accuracy has went to shit. It was .75 MOA consistently. It is now 3 MOA. The rifle has hard bolt lift now. I cleaned down to bare met with Hoppe's and Sweet's. I then went out and shot 5 fouled and 3 5 shot groups. Accuracy has not improved. And bolt lift is still stiff. The rifle has been taken down to bare receiver and barrel. Then reassembled with blue lock tite. I have tried different scopes and chassis. The ammo has been tried in a different rifle. I don't have a bore scope to check for a carbon ring. What should I check next? Thank you for your time and help!
Gunsmithing Carbon ring.
- Thread starter Jscb1b
- Start date
First let me say I have used the clr method and I have a borescope, and that stuff will take that barrel back to bare steel in about 15 minutes. I'm sold on that but still don't clean my barrels a ton.
Now do you have a power drill?
@Dthomas3523 has a legendary clr routine he can fill you in on the rest
Now do you have a power drill?
@Dthomas3523 has a legendary clr routine he can fill you in on the rest
Tagging for interest as well. I'm planning on going at my carbon this weekend, always like to see other's methods.
Teslong borescopes are like $50 on Amazon. Without being able to see inside, you’re just guessing.
I second this... big game changer.
I use bore tech carbon remover with a mop, let it soak in The chamber neck for 15 minutes, then take a nylon brush with more carbon remover and spin it for a few minutes. This always seemed to do the trick for me!
Best way to clean for carbon ring is.
Boretech carbon remover. Patch neck and throat area let soak.
Use an short bronze (not the cheap ones)pistol brush 45 cal. and wrap a patch around it soaked on a carbon remover. Go back and forth and in a circular motion several times.
You may need to do this a few times to clean it up.
Do this every time you clean your rifle.
Boretech carbon remover. Patch neck and throat area let soak.
Use an short bronze (not the cheap ones)pistol brush 45 cal. and wrap a patch around it soaked on a carbon remover. Go back and forth and in a circular motion several times.
You may need to do this a few times to clean it up.
Do this every time you clean your rifle.
Another variation - Set your rifle muzzle down. Pack a cotton ball into the chamber so it sits at the throat. Drip carbon cleaner of your choice through the ejection port onto the cotton ball so that it is saturated. Put cup of some type under the muzzle to catch any drips. Let it sit for 24 hour. The cotton ball will keep the throat wet with carbon cleaner. Remove cotton ball with tweezers. Repeat as necessary.
I avoid mechanical abrasion to remove carbon, give the chemicals time to work.
I avoid mechanical abrasion to remove carbon, give the chemicals time to work.
I do the soak to soften it but then I stick a brush in there after and and give it some mechanical action as well. Steel is hard, the copper/nylon brush wont hurt it and soaked hard carbon scrapes off better than it smears off.
Yep. Never understood the logic that a brush made from a much softer metal is going to hurt the much harder steel barrel that can handle the friction and heat of a bullet.
The only issue that might happen is the copper/bronze brush leaving pieces in barrel you need to clean out.
Yep, I always finish with dry patches until they no longer come out moist.
Truthfully Im more scared of the liquid in the barrel than the cleaning debris.
@Dthomas3523 lets hear about this CLR method of yoursFirst let me say I have used the clr method and I have a borescope, and that stuff will take that barrel back to bare steel in about 15 minutes. I'm sold on that but still don't clean my barrels a ton.
Now do you have a power drill?
@Dthomas3523 has a legendary clr routine he can fill you in on the rest
.030 in 600 rounds, holy shit.
1: Hang barrel and plug. Fill with clr for 1-3hrs. Drain
2: Patch dry.
3: Take nylon brush/cleaning rod/drill and your cleaner of choice. Run brush through barrel a few min.
4: Patch dry and plug/hang again
5: Fill with copper solvent of choice for 1-3hrs. Drain
6: patch dry
7: repeat step 3
8: patch dry and make sure chamber is free from oil/solvent/etc
Done. Actual manual labor is ~10min. Barrel comes out looking almost new in borescope. Do this after every match or 300rnds and you’ll never have to worry about anything and you’ll always know the status of your barrel (as well that a dirty barrel is never your problem).
i'm not saying nobody will disagree, but he usually gets as much data as he can
How Fast Does A Barrel Erode?
A match-grade barrel is a big investment for many shooters, so how much life you can expect from it...
precisionrifleblog.com I don't have the bore scope yet. But I'm kinda impatient so I ran a brush in the throat. The hard bolt lift is gone. The wind is blowing like a mother fucker. My vertical spread looks good. Horizontal sucks.
Can someone post a picture of what a true carbon ring looks like? I haven't checked the bore (I have a teslong also) but my Barrett MRAD 338LM has been giving me hard bolt lift regardless of pressure or load. I'm down 4 grains from previous known good load and I get bolt lift (hard bolt lift, as in, I need a mallet for extraction) and yet, velocity hasn't changed. I'm running N570 which is dirty AF so I assume I have carbon cake I mean ring. I just want to make sure that's my cause. I thought it was headspace and sent the barrel off to Barrett for headspace adjustment (I broke loose the barrel extension so I messed up my headspace) but I still get hard bolt lift. Even with factory Prime ammo. Barrel also has over 2750 rounds through it and still shoots lights out.
Looks sort of like this.
Clean it as described in above post and then do it again.
Clean it as described in above post and then do it again.
CLR = Calcium, Lime Rust cleaner? Is that right?
Right where the fire cracking starts?
That's not fire cracking. That's carbon cracking.
I think I had "Carbon Cake" rather than ring. I abused the hell out of this barrel. Anyhow, Before CLR, after 1 hour of scrubbing, and after 3 hours of scrubbing. I only soaked with CLR for 30 minutes. The first photo has a piece of fired brass chambered for reference. First photo the scope went in from the muzzle. All the other photos are from the chamber-end.
My question is, did I do it enough, or is that still carbon ring left (but looks like chipped steel)? A couple of the photos you can see on the right a profile view (from the chamber end)
I don't have a rigid rod long enough to reach into the chamber (Barrett MRAD) nor one that I can attach to a drill. This was all hand-brushed with a Phosphor bronze brush with the barrel removed.
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