Im getting back into reloading for .308 and had to buy everything to get going. I have a nice mill set up in my shop and figured I can use the mill to do my case prep, trimming, primer pocket uniforming, flash hole deburring ,etc. Im going to setup a shell holder in the vise and use the micrometer depth stop to set proper depths and trimming lengths. 90 rpm in low gear should work beautifully. Anyone do something similar? Years ago I had a hand crank RCBS...eff that...lol I dont need to waste the money on a trimmer or anything.
- Thread starter mcm308
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interesting...maybe some time when you get set up you can post a few pics id like to see your set up and how it works.
I will. Do you have a milling machine?
Currious . . . how do you plan on indexing the stop, like with a special jig. . .something that's different than a typical milling machine set up??? 
Hopefully, you're setting it up for indexing off the shoulder after sizing when the shoulder has been bumped to get a consistent neck length.
A milling machine set up doesn't sound like you can be anywhere near as fast as tools like a Giraud (Tri-Way) or a Trim-It II. . .??? I use a Tri-Way for my .308 trimming and that it chamfers and deberrs at the same time, which is a huge time saver and does it all very well.
Hopefully, you're setting it up for indexing off the shoulder after sizing when the shoulder has been bumped to get a consistent neck length.
A milling machine set up doesn't sound like you can be anywhere near as fast as tools like a Giraud (Tri-Way) or a Trim-It II. . .??? I use a Tri-Way for my .308 trimming and that it chamfers and deberrs at the same time, which is a huge time saver and does it all very well.
Currious . . . how do you plan on indexing the stop, like with a special jig. . .something that's different than a typical milling machine set up???
Hopefully, you're setting it up for indexing off the shoulder after sizing when the shoulder has been bumped to get a consistent neck length.
A milling machine set up doesn't sound like you can be anywhere near as fast as tools like a Giraud (Tri-Way) or a Trim-It II. . .??? I use a Tri-Way for my .308 trimming and that it chamfers and deberrs at the same time, which is a huge time saver and does it all very well.
Index the stop? Its a micrometer so once I set it to trim a case at 2.005, it'll trim every case at 2.005. So not quite sure what your asking?
As far as speed, I could've bought the tool to trim , debur, and chamfer in one step but Im being cheap..lol As fast as you can insert a case into a shell holder, pull the lever a couple inches and remove case is as fast as it can go... probably quick once into a rhythm...
Its been 10 years since Ive loaded but I never bumped shoulders. Fireform and then its neck sizing after that.
While every case can be trimmed to 2.005, the neck length from shoulder junction to case mouth can vary by a few thousandths for those same cases. I feel the uniformity in neck length is actually more important than the uniformity in case length. So, I'm asking would you be sure to get the kind of uniformity with neck length as you do with case length?
Kinda like the Henderson Gen 2 Case Trimmer, I guess???
I get what your saying regarding neck length as opposed to overall length. I can index the machine anywhere I want so lets say I full length size for the 1st load( have to do that anyway), I can take a case and set the machine up off any point at the base of the shoulder, and then trim necks to equal length. That would provide the results your looking for and something I indeed may try for a small batch to test. Set up process is relatively the same so no big deal.
Yes, atleast as fast as that Henderson thing but probably a hair faster.
I want one that is a 5-Way!
One that not only does what the 3-way's do, but also does this all at once too:
One that not only does what the 3-way's do, but also does this all at once too:
Whats the problem? Be more specific...lol
Get back to use with your "Why did I have to beat the bolt handle open with a 2X4" stories. "What's the problem?
Never had a problem cycling the bolt.
Nothing is faster out there right now than trimming on a Dillon 650
Only every single one of the best shooters in the world full length size every single firing. Every. Single. One.
Eventually, you won’t be able to close your bolt. That’s irrefutable fact. OR, you’ll slam your bolt closed hard enough to size your brass WITH your chamber. Neither one of which are conducive to accuracy by any of the imagination.
Eventually, you won’t be able to close your bolt. That’s irrefutable fact. OR, you’ll slam your bolt closed hard enough to size your brass WITH your chamber. Neither one of which are conducive to accuracy by any of the imagination.
Your correct but its a topic for another discussion. Full length sizing is required but not EVERY time. I was taught by an old timer and the process netted 1/4 moa out to 300 so I didn't have a problem and really couldn't ask for more.
Gotta be careful about statements like this as it simply doesn't say anything as to how or why. One should understand the whole story in such a statement. For example, many of them use custom FL dies, many of which amounts to nothing more than neck sizing and bumping the shoulders along with their custom sized chambers. That's not to say some don't use factory spec guns and FL size. It all just needs to be understood in context.
Precisely...
Not necessarily. It depends on the die.
Are you aware, there are some top of the line shooters that don't even size their brass at all as they've got chambers cut so that after firing, all they have to do is clean up the necks and reload it?
I’m aware that all the top shooters and world record holders in the above posted video do not do that.
Well I suppose I can try that out. Neck sizing was the way back in the day though. I was even taught to only neck size part of the neck leaving the base of the neck alone. I would hit them full length every 4th or 5th time. Onced the primer pockets got loose, they were done. Things have certainly changed. Im starting from scratch so nothing to lose.
I have a Redding comp die set with a full length body die, and bushing neck die. The body die doesn’t touch the neck. I use it to bump the shoulder back .002”, and in the process it sizes the body down to the extractor groove.
The neck die has a micrometer to adjust how much of the neck is sized. So you can still incorporate what you have learned on neck sizing, and add the body die process for each reload.
The neck die has a micrometer to adjust how much of the neck is sized. So you can still incorporate what you have learned on neck sizing, and add the body die process for each reload.
That is why I responded to your post "but I never bumped shoulders". You can't N/O size forever. I see now you say hit them F /L every 4th or 5th time. That works fine.
Ya need a 3-way trimming bit to same time.
Broski... yea i should've splurged. I'm going to get it though! I'm deburring now and I already said I could've been done!!
That's not quite true. I would fully agree that most full length size and for most of the conversations on this site it's the preferred method. But, there are those that successfully go about it another way. Be cautious with that type of statement.
Your making very bold statements that cant be quantified or qualified. Remember this is educational.
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