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Ceracoated bolt

308sniper147

Sergeant
Full Member
Minuteman
Jun 13, 2013
554
2
Huntsville, AL
Hey everyone!
I am contemplating having my barreled action and bolt Ceracoated, and I am considering getting my flutes coated in a contrasting color. This will be more expensive.

My question is to people that have had there bolt Ceracoated, how long did the coating last? How quickly did wear marks show up? Who was it done by? How many cycles of the bolt roughly did you run through before you had it refinished if you ever have? Also how sensitive to chipping and scratching is the paint on the rest of the barrel and action.

Andrew
 
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I had one done, the one down side that I didn't like is that cerakote is pretty thick by the time its applied. it should NOT be applied to the inside of the action AND the bolt. One or the other.

It gets rubbed off pretty quick from lug contact areas, a few areas of the bolt handle, and much of the edges and forward surfaces of the bolt face.

Less than 50 cycles of dry fires and 20 live rounds was enough to make a significant visual difference.
 
I had one done, the one down side that I didn't like is that cerakote is pretty thick by the time its applied. it should NOT be applied to the inside of the action AND the bolt. One or the other.

It gets rubbed off pretty quick from lug contact areas, a few areas of the bolt handle, and much of the edges and forward surfaces of the bolt face.

Less than 50 cycles of dry fires and 20 live rounds was enough to make a significant visual difference.

This is what I was afraid of.


I would love some others to chime in with a similar or different experience.
 
If you have a tight/custom action then do not have the inside of your action and/or bolt ceracoted, it's too thick.

I had this done on one of my rifles and the while my smith advised against it-- stupidly I had it done anyway and it became nearly impossible to cycle. I had to use some lapping compound to get some of it off then just worked the bolt a few thousand times until finally worn it in enough that it works fine. I will never do that again.

My smith said there was a thinner more lubricated coating that they use for the inside of actions and bolts... but I can't remember what it's called.
 
I had Surgeon build my rifle and the action was ceracoated inside as well as the bolt, the action was as smooth as a 16 year old chearleaders thigh. The coating did not start to show any wear until about the 450 to 500 round mark. My friend has a GAP Hospitaller it has the 591 action as well and his is the same way only he has less than 400 rounds through his and I can't see any wear on his bolt, the GAP is coated in black and mine in FDE so that may have something to do with not seeing wear on his.
 
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I had Surgeon build my rifle and the action was ceracoated inside as well as the bolt, the action was as smooth as a 16 year old chearleaders thigh. The coating did not start to show any wear until about the 450 to 500 round mark. My friend has a GAP Hospitaller it has the 591 action as well and his is the same way only he has less than 400 rounds through his and I can't see any wear on his bolt, the GAP is coated in black and mine in FDE so that may have something to do with not seeing wear on his.

I'm thinking of doing it to my rem 700 bolt, and yes black would be a good color as it would be forgiving when it starts to wear.
 
If you have a tight/custom action then do not have the inside of your action and/or bolt ceracoted, it's too thick.

I had this done on one of my rifles and the while my smith advised against it-- stupidly I had it done anyway and it became nearly impossible to cycle. I had to use some lapping compound to get some of it off then just worked the bolt a few thousand times until finally worn it in enough that it works fine. I will never do that again.

My smith said there was a thinner more lubricated coating that they use for the inside of actions and bolts... but I can't remember what it's called.

Hmmm I would like to know about the coating they use. The weapon in thinking of having it done on is a rem700 which I don't think has the tightest of tolerances.
 
Hmmm I would like to know about the coating they use. The weapon in thinking of having it done on is a rem700 which I don't think has the tightest of tolerances.

You should be ok with ceracoating a Remmy- I've had it done on a couple of mine without any problems-

I'll find out what the thinner coating was called and post it here. I believe it only comes in black and it has some sort of lubricating quality.

--also note- I've been told different color ceracoat has different thicknesses. I hear black is the thinnest and FDE can be rather thick.
 
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You should be ok with ceracoating a Remmy- I've had it done on a couple of mine without any problems-

I'll find out what the thinner coating was called and post it here. I believe it only comes in black and it has some sort of lubricating quality.

--also note- I've been told different color ceracoat has different thicknesses. I hear black is the thinnest and FDE can be rather thick.

Did it make the bolt throw less or more smooth? How is the coating holding up after how many rounds?(or how did it look when you sold it if that's what you did)

Thanks
 
Did it make the bolt throw less or more smooth? How is the coating holding up after how many rounds?(or how did it look when you sold it if that's what you did)

Thanks

The coating smooths out and begins to wear off where there is metal/metal contact after a few hundred rounds or so. But the coating stays in place and protects most of the bolt (non-friction areas) Ceracoat doesn't make the action smoother- it's a paint type coating for protecting against rust and elements. Now there are some teflon coatings that may make the bolt run smoother. The best thing to do is just run your bolt 1000 times and use a touch of grease.
 
[QUOTE=308Gunner;………………., the action was as smooth as a 16 year old chearleaders thigh. The coating did not start to show any wear until about the 450 to 500 round mark.



Someone needs to start a best comment thread……………..that sum funny stuff if ur from R-Kansas……

Same results for my cerakoted bolt/axn. few hundred cycles and shows the common wear. But the protection is still supposed to be there…….from what i was told
 
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I have coated several bolts with MicroSlick and it is a very thin coating. It is a dark grey color.

Paul
 
Get it hard chromed. Will look great and function flawlessly

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I use Norell's Moly-Resin and never have an issue coating the inside of the receiver and the bolt. It wears nice and after just a few cycles, it gets really smooth. It is my firearm finish of choice.
 
I have coated several bolts with MicroSlick and it is a very thin coating. It is a dark grey color.

Paul


Yep - that is the stuff I couldn't remember the name of. It's what my buddy/gunsmith Marc Soulie uses too. That is what he recommends for tight actions. Not sure how long it holds up but it sounds like a good start.
 
Yep - that is the stuff I couldn't remember the name of. It's what my buddy/gunsmith Marc Soulie uses too. That is what he recommends for tight actions. Not sure how long it holds up but it sounds like a good start.

Melonite too
 
I had a fluted bolt cerakoted and it was a little rough at first but seemed to smooth out after a couple hundred cycles. It was in desert sage so it showed wear quickly. As long as the person coating it knows what he is doing you shouldnt have issues with it
being too thick.
 
Have a tikka t3 that was Cerakoted all over. Cerakote came off almost immediately on high friction points. It's very small though. If your worried about looks then yes it will look used at some point. If your worried about protection. Don't? Lol. Can always put a very very small layer of grease on the high friction points if your that worried.

If protection is what your worried about you can try smooth kote. It's a very dark gray matte look when applied. Makes it very smooth.. Obviously. And protects the metal from wear and tear. Not the best for looks unless your an epic painter.


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