I was looking at the cerakote website and was curious if anyone knew how to apply it yourself? What type of equipment does it take, and will cerakote even sell me the stuff if I am not a certified applicator?
Gunsmithing Cerakote Application
- Thread starter wfpack14
- Start date
- Tags
- application cerakote
Re: Cerakote Application
Im sure you can get it from Brownells, as for applying it, a decent airbrush with around a .5 needle will do the trick. Its pretty fluid like to work with and takes a bit of getting use to but its neat stuff to work with. The same can be said for Duracoat, I like both products and use them extensively.
Im sure you can get it from Brownells, as for applying it, a decent airbrush with around a .5 needle will do the trick. Its pretty fluid like to work with and takes a bit of getting use to but its neat stuff to work with. The same can be said for Duracoat, I like both products and use them extensively.
Re: Cerakote Application
For Cerakote they recommend that you apply it with a High Volume Low Pressure gun. You will need to heat it then to 2 hours at 250 or 1 at 300.
For Cerakote they recommend that you apply it with a High Volume Low Pressure gun. You will need to heat it then to 2 hours at 250 or 1 at 300.
Re: Cerakote Application
I'm going to try Cerakote in the near future, as Duracoat has always given me trouble from the spray gun. For some reason it always goobers on me from the spray gun, unless I go up to about a 1.4 in a full-size spray gun, which for small jobs makes no sense and wastes material.
-matt
I'm going to try Cerakote in the near future, as Duracoat has always given me trouble from the spray gun. For some reason it always goobers on me from the spray gun, unless I go up to about a 1.4 in a full-size spray gun, which for small jobs makes no sense and wastes material.
-matt
Re: Cerakote Application
Thanks everyone, what would be the best way to heat it up? I have seen a few homemade ovens that look like they could work any other suggestions?
Thanks everyone, what would be the best way to heat it up? I have seen a few homemade ovens that look like they could work any other suggestions?
Re: Cerakote Application
Blow dryer, oven, space heater, summer day in the sun. <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: wi50</div><div class="ubbcode-body">wife's kitchen oven....... just make sure she's at work</div></div>
+1
To warm before spraying blow dryer, oven, space heater, summer day in the sun.
To cook use the oven, buy a used oven to put in your shop, I have seen some guys make an oven out of stove pipe or sheet metal tube and a hot plate/indoor grill you just have to get an external thermometer and figure out the heat setting to get the proper temp.
Blow dryer, oven, space heater, summer day in the sun. <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: wi50</div><div class="ubbcode-body">wife's kitchen oven....... just make sure she's at work</div></div>
+1
To warm before spraying blow dryer, oven, space heater, summer day in the sun.
To cook use the oven, buy a used oven to put in your shop, I have seen some guys make an oven out of stove pipe or sheet metal tube and a hot plate/indoor grill you just have to get an external thermometer and figure out the heat setting to get the proper temp.
Re: Cerakote Application
Here is a link to something similar there are 3 pages with pictures and plans:
http://www.americanwoodworker.com/aspx/contentdetail.aspx?ContentId=1331&PageNo=1
I have seen them just like this with out the bow form in the middle and cup hooks all along the sides for attaching the item to be heated.
I have also seen them where they stand straight up and the heat source is at the bottom and the top comes off and you hang the items from the lid. Make sure you use the insulation inside if using wood, it can be used outside if using sheet metal or stove pipe.
Here is a link to something similar there are 3 pages with pictures and plans:
http://www.americanwoodworker.com/aspx/contentdetail.aspx?ContentId=1331&PageNo=1
I have seen them just like this with out the bow form in the middle and cup hooks all along the sides for attaching the item to be heated.
I have also seen them where they stand straight up and the heat source is at the bottom and the top comes off and you hang the items from the lid. Make sure you use the insulation inside if using wood, it can be used outside if using sheet metal or stove pipe.
Re: Cerakote Application
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: wi50</div><div class="ubbcode-body">wife's kitchen oven....... just make sure she's at work </div></div>
Doesnt it smell up the oven / house?
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: wi50</div><div class="ubbcode-body">wife's kitchen oven....... just make sure she's at work </div></div>
Doesnt it smell up the oven / house?
Re: Cerakote Application
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: TCshooter</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: wi50</div><div class="ubbcode-body">wife's kitchen oven....... just make sure she's at work </div></div>
Doesnt it smell up the oven / house? </div></div>
If you open a couple windows and turn the ceiling fans on high to pull air in, the smell is gone in 30-45 mins. A lot of guys are worried about cooking this in the oven food is cooked in, but what is the metal inside the oven coated with? same stuff?
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: TCshooter</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: wi50</div><div class="ubbcode-body">wife's kitchen oven....... just make sure she's at work </div></div>
Doesnt it smell up the oven / house? </div></div>
If you open a couple windows and turn the ceiling fans on high to pull air in, the smell is gone in 30-45 mins. A lot of guys are worried about cooking this in the oven food is cooked in, but what is the metal inside the oven coated with? same stuff?
Re: Cerakote Application
Here is a link to one that looks do able and is small enough it could sit in the corner out of the way. Keeping the heat consistiant is my biggest concern.
http://www272.pair.com/stevewag/heater/heater1.html
Here is a link to one that looks do able and is small enough it could sit in the corner out of the way. Keeping the heat consistiant is my biggest concern.
http://www272.pair.com/stevewag/heater/heater1.html
Re: Cerakote Application
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Sigster</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Im sure the wife will notice the smell.And any other mess you leave. </div></div>
ya no shit... then my ass is grass! I think i will find someone local with a shop oven! Then im safe and I get to keep my nutz!
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Sigster</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Im sure the wife will notice the smell.And any other mess you leave. </div></div>
ya no shit... then my ass is grass! I think i will find someone local with a shop oven! Then im safe and I get to keep my nutz!
Re: Cerakote Application
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: wfpack14</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Here is a link to one that looks do able and is small enough it could sit in the corner out of the way. Keeping the heat consistiant is my biggest concern.
http://www272.pair.com/stevewag/heater/heater1.html </div></div>
Looks good but im not that mechanically inclined and probably end up 'zapping' myself...
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: wfpack14</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Here is a link to one that looks do able and is small enough it could sit in the corner out of the way. Keeping the heat consistiant is my biggest concern.
http://www272.pair.com/stevewag/heater/heater1.html </div></div>
Looks good but im not that mechanically inclined and probably end up 'zapping' myself...
Re: Cerakote Application
I little off topic. How do you guys compare this stuff to GunKote? I refinished 20+ rifles with gunkote and I am less than impressed with the durability. Not so much on the rifles, but I've done some pistols that get carried and the holster wear is bad. So, is cerakote better in terms of durability? Thanks.
I little off topic. How do you guys compare this stuff to GunKote? I refinished 20+ rifles with gunkote and I am less than impressed with the durability. Not so much on the rifles, but I've done some pistols that get carried and the holster wear is bad. So, is cerakote better in terms of durability? Thanks.
Re: Cerakote Application
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: wfpack14</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Here is a link to one that looks do able and is small enough it could sit in the corner out of the way. Keeping the heat consistiant is my biggest concern.
http://www272.pair.com/stevewag/heater/heater1.html </div></div>
Go to page 4 of that article. That is the design that I copied for my Gunkote baker. With a dimmer switch you can get a fairly consistent temperature.
Does anyone know how Cerakote compares to Gunkote as far as spraying technique?
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: wfpack14</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Here is a link to one that looks do able and is small enough it could sit in the corner out of the way. Keeping the heat consistiant is my biggest concern.
http://www272.pair.com/stevewag/heater/heater1.html </div></div>
Go to page 4 of that article. That is the design that I copied for my Gunkote baker. With a dimmer switch you can get a fairly consistent temperature.
Does anyone know how Cerakote compares to Gunkote as far as spraying technique?
Re: Cerakote Application
I've found that Cerakote requires more passes to get a good coating that Gunkote. I think they're pretty close on durability. I haven't seen a coating, factory or aftermarket, that will not show wear from a holster or metal to metal contact. There just isn't anything tough enough.
I like the extremely flat texture of Cerakote but it can be a bit tricky to use. If you so much as lightly brush a shirt sleeve against the Cerakote before it's been baked you can plan on spraying it again. It acts like a thin powder coat once the solvents have flashed off and is very easy to disturb. Not so with the Gunkote or Norrell's moly resin (same thing). They dry almost on contact and once dry to the touch they're pretty resistant to inadvertant contact.
I spray Cerakote, Gunkote, DuraCoat and Norrell's moly resin all with a Badger 350 airbrush. The DC occasionally acts funky through it but it gets the job done well with them all. Anything that requires baking gets put into the kitchen oven and my wife hasn't complained yet.
I've found that Cerakote requires more passes to get a good coating that Gunkote. I think they're pretty close on durability. I haven't seen a coating, factory or aftermarket, that will not show wear from a holster or metal to metal contact. There just isn't anything tough enough.
I like the extremely flat texture of Cerakote but it can be a bit tricky to use. If you so much as lightly brush a shirt sleeve against the Cerakote before it's been baked you can plan on spraying it again. It acts like a thin powder coat once the solvents have flashed off and is very easy to disturb. Not so with the Gunkote or Norrell's moly resin (same thing). They dry almost on contact and once dry to the touch they're pretty resistant to inadvertant contact.
I spray Cerakote, Gunkote, DuraCoat and Norrell's moly resin all with a Badger 350 airbrush. The DC occasionally acts funky through it but it gets the job done well with them all. Anything that requires baking gets put into the kitchen oven and my wife hasn't complained yet.
Re: Cerakote Application
any one wanting a toll free number on how to buy cerakote pm me pale horse I will get you started with sample kits and free spray guns price & shipping etc great people great product I am useing up my dura coat supplys and will order no more better product to be hade cheaper in the longrun Pale horse
any one wanting a toll free number on how to buy cerakote pm me pale horse I will get you started with sample kits and free spray guns price & shipping etc great people great product I am useing up my dura coat supplys and will order no more better product to be hade cheaper in the longrun Pale horse
Re: Cerakote Application
i think i'm going to say the hell with my duracoat and try the cerakote or KG, the duracoat wears off too fast.
i think i'm going to say the hell with my duracoat and try the cerakote or KG, the duracoat wears off too fast.
Re: Cerakote Application
The main prob. why gun get plugged wile shooting paint, is a too high air pressure... it says HIGH VOLUME, LOW PRESSURE
I was using Duracoat and the canadian Armacoat but switched few month ago for Cerakoat, way much more resistant and no more worry about hardner, cost more but you can put back the rest of your spray gun in the jar... but keep the air pressure 30PSI and lower for air brush, my HVLP run at 25PSI and my Air Brush at 20psi...
Sendero
The main prob. why gun get plugged wile shooting paint, is a too high air pressure... it says HIGH VOLUME, LOW PRESSURE
I was using Duracoat and the canadian Armacoat but switched few month ago for Cerakoat, way much more resistant and no more worry about hardner, cost more but you can put back the rest of your spray gun in the jar... but keep the air pressure 30PSI and lower for air brush, my HVLP run at 25PSI and my Air Brush at 20psi...
Sendero
Re: Cerakote Application
crap for all of these problems I will just send them out , not a lot but if sending out would go with the
Walter Birdsong black finish
Bill
crap for all of these problems I will just send them out , not a lot but if sending out would go with the
Walter Birdsong black finish
Bill
Re: Cerakote Application
wear breathing aparatus or a mask, you do not want any of that stuff in your lungs.
Duracoat I only use for stocks, or if a whole rifle needs cammoing I will use duracoat over a base coat of Gunkote.
Gunkote is very easy to use and its 1 part, so you can tip back what you dont use.
Ive noticed that the OD green gunkote seems to be slightly more adversent to ear than any of the black variants, maybe i'm just seeing things, but thats the impression i get.
Cerakote stinks to high heaven, is a little more tricky to apply but is more wear resistant than the others.
Remember to clean your application equipment throughtly after use.
Pete
wear breathing aparatus or a mask, you do not want any of that stuff in your lungs.
Duracoat I only use for stocks, or if a whole rifle needs cammoing I will use duracoat over a base coat of Gunkote.
Gunkote is very easy to use and its 1 part, so you can tip back what you dont use.
Ive noticed that the OD green gunkote seems to be slightly more adversent to ear than any of the black variants, maybe i'm just seeing things, but thats the impression i get.
Cerakote stinks to high heaven, is a little more tricky to apply but is more wear resistant than the others.
Remember to clean your application equipment throughtly after use.
Pete
Re: Cerakote Application
Cerakote you want a HVLP gun with a .8 tip
I use cerakote and KG alot, and I think cerakote wears better but KG is very good also. KG will go on thinner and is easier to work with because you don't have the hardner to deal with.
Cerakote you want a HVLP gun with a .8 tip
I use cerakote and KG alot, and I think cerakote wears better but KG is very good also. KG will go on thinner and is easier to work with because you don't have the hardner to deal with.
Re: Cerakote Application
I have been having a real pain using Graphite Black Cerakote lately. Sometimes its really matte like the Armorer's black and other times it wipes right off after baked. Before you accuse me of poor preparation I'm doing things right. I degrease, blast with 120 A/O, Degrease and wipe down with Acetone. I will then apply, bake for 2 hours at 250. When that was not working I would bake the metal before and let it cool a bit, but still pretty warm, then apply. Still jacked up. Its a batch of Graphite black from Brownells..........anybody else have this problem????
I have been having a real pain using Graphite Black Cerakote lately. Sometimes its really matte like the Armorer's black and other times it wipes right off after baked. Before you accuse me of poor preparation I'm doing things right. I degrease, blast with 120 A/O, Degrease and wipe down with Acetone. I will then apply, bake for 2 hours at 250. When that was not working I would bake the metal before and let it cool a bit, but still pretty warm, then apply. Still jacked up. Its a batch of Graphite black from Brownells..........anybody else have this problem????
Re: Cerakote Application
I purchase my cerakote directly from NIC and have not seen the problem you are having, and I have shot more graphite black than any other color.
Cerakote in general is extremely sensitive to the amount of hardener you add, less than the recommended 24 to 1 will achieve a more matte finish and more will achieve a more satin to glossy finish.
Let your metal cool before you shoot it, it's not like applying KG where you want the metal around 110 to 120*F
I purchase my cerakote directly from NIC and have not seen the problem you are having, and I have shot more graphite black than any other color.
Cerakote in general is extremely sensitive to the amount of hardener you add, less than the recommended 24 to 1 will achieve a more matte finish and more will achieve a more satin to glossy finish.
Let your metal cool before you shoot it, it's not like applying KG where you want the metal around 110 to 120*F
Re: Cerakote Application
After you blast your parts with A/O, just blow the parts off with the air gun to blow off any dust from blasting, then heat them up to 110 or so, let cool. If you don't see any oil creeping out any where your ready to coat. Cerakote does not recommend applying a solvent after blasting unless it's approved by them.
Make sure you mix the hardener good, refrigerate the paint and leave your hardener out of the fridge, this will aid in measuring.
When cerakote goes bad the paint in the container will form a crystalline like look to it (like freezer burn on a steak).
After you blast your parts with A/O, just blow the parts off with the air gun to blow off any dust from blasting, then heat them up to 110 or so, let cool. If you don't see any oil creeping out any where your ready to coat. Cerakote does not recommend applying a solvent after blasting unless it's approved by them.
Make sure you mix the hardener good, refrigerate the paint and leave your hardener out of the fridge, this will aid in measuring.
When cerakote goes bad the paint in the container will form a crystalline like look to it (like freezer burn on a steak).
Re: Cerakote Application
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: eddief</div><div class="ubbcode-body">After you blast your parts with A/O, just blow the parts off with the air gun to blow off any dust from blasting, then heat them up to 110 or so, let cool. If you don't see any oil creeping out any where your ready to coat. Cerakote does not recommend applying a solvent after blasting unless it's approved by them.
Make sure you mix the hardener good, refrigerate the paint and leave your hardener out of the fridge, this will aid in measuring.
When cerakote goes bad the paint in the container will form a crystalline like look to it (like freezer burn on a steak). </div></div>
Have you tried keeping the paint in a fridge to preserve the shelf life?
I'm thinking of using a airbrush as a applicator like this:
http://www.dickblick.com/products/badger-model-350-single-action-airbrush/
What do you think?
What kind of tape are you using to mask off patterns to paint?
thx
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: eddief</div><div class="ubbcode-body">After you blast your parts with A/O, just blow the parts off with the air gun to blow off any dust from blasting, then heat them up to 110 or so, let cool. If you don't see any oil creeping out any where your ready to coat. Cerakote does not recommend applying a solvent after blasting unless it's approved by them.
Make sure you mix the hardener good, refrigerate the paint and leave your hardener out of the fridge, this will aid in measuring.
When cerakote goes bad the paint in the container will form a crystalline like look to it (like freezer burn on a steak). </div></div>
Have you tried keeping the paint in a fridge to preserve the shelf life?
I'm thinking of using a airbrush as a applicator like this:
http://www.dickblick.com/products/badger-model-350-single-action-airbrush/
What do you think?
What kind of tape are you using to mask off patterns to paint?
thx
Re: Cerakote Application
I keep my cerakote in the fridge, but not the hardener. Can't comment on the airbrush you have listed, but it appears that it should work fine.
I use a DeVilbiss HVLP gun with a .8 tip and a Iwata airbrush with a .5 tip for shadowing and such.
I mask and cut all my own stencils with 3M blue painters tape or calendered vinyl that withstands baking
I keep my cerakote in the fridge, but not the hardener. Can't comment on the airbrush you have listed, but it appears that it should work fine.
I use a DeVilbiss HVLP gun with a .8 tip and a Iwata airbrush with a .5 tip for shadowing and such.
I mask and cut all my own stencils with 3M blue painters tape or calendered vinyl that withstands baking
Re: Cerakote Application
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: eddief</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> calendered vinyl that withstands baking </div></div>
Brand name?
I phoned the guy in charge of cerakote at the factory and he said it could have up to a shelf life of 3 years if kept cool. So I think that its somewhat temperature sensitive for storage.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: eddief</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> calendered vinyl that withstands baking </div></div>
Brand name?
I phoned the guy in charge of cerakote at the factory and he said it could have up to a shelf life of 3 years if kept cool. So I think that its somewhat temperature sensitive for storage.
Re: Cerakote Application
Avery
Avery
Re: Cerakote Application
Just like you said edief. I degrease then blast and blow off. I then shoot the cerakote and then bake. I never have any problems with oil or anything doing it this way. Same finish every time. If the oil creeps after it bakes a little it never causes any problems because the cerakote is under the oil and continues to bake. Sometimes i will notice a little oil creep around recoil lug area after it comes out of the oven, but the coating is stuck and the oil wipes right off.
Just like you said edief. I degrease then blast and blow off. I then shoot the cerakote and then bake. I never have any problems with oil or anything doing it this way. Same finish every time. If the oil creeps after it bakes a little it never causes any problems because the cerakote is under the oil and continues to bake. Sometimes i will notice a little oil creep around recoil lug area after it comes out of the oven, but the coating is stuck and the oil wipes right off.
Re: Cerakote Application
US Handgunner.
I had the same trouble with the same colour. I am not sure exactly what the hell I did wrong, but as you said, comes out matt and wipes off.
This happened to me when i was coating in the middle of the night on a rush job for a mate.
I figured that i'd forgot to add hardner, but to be honest i now think it was simply a case of the hardner not being mixed in properly. I've paid particular attention since and had excellent results with exactly the same tub so it must have been something I did wrong, or didnt do.
regards Pete
US Handgunner.
I had the same trouble with the same colour. I am not sure exactly what the hell I did wrong, but as you said, comes out matt and wipes off.
This happened to me when i was coating in the middle of the night on a rush job for a mate.
I figured that i'd forgot to add hardner, but to be honest i now think it was simply a case of the hardner not being mixed in properly. I've paid particular attention since and had excellent results with exactly the same tub so it must have been something I did wrong, or didnt do.
regards Pete
Re: Cerakote Application
All the application information is on NIC's website. Follow it to the T
DO NOT bake it in your cooking oven. This shit is poison through and through.
I'd think the makers of the product would know better than people on an internet board. If I ever got into Cerakote, I'd probably ask them...
All the application information is on NIC's website. Follow it to the T
DO NOT bake it in your cooking oven. This shit is poison through and through.
I'd think the makers of the product would know better than people on an internet board. If I ever got into Cerakote, I'd probably ask them...
Re: Cerakote Application
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Phil1</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I'm thinking of using a airbrush as a applicator like this:
http://www.dickblick.com/products/badger-model-350-single-action-airbrush/
What do you think?
What kind of tape are you using to mask off patterns to paint?
thx </div></div>
I've been using a Badger 350 for years with pretty decent results. It doesn't lay DuraCoat all that well but Norrell's, KG and Cerakote all work well through it.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Phil1</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I'm thinking of using a airbrush as a applicator like this:
http://www.dickblick.com/products/badger-model-350-single-action-airbrush/
What do you think?
What kind of tape are you using to mask off patterns to paint?
thx </div></div>
I've been using a Badger 350 for years with pretty decent results. It doesn't lay DuraCoat all that well but Norrell's, KG and Cerakote all work well through it.
Re: Cerakote Application
What type of ovens are you guys using? Also, what means of support are you using while painting and then transferring to the oven? Thanks
What type of ovens are you guys using? Also, what means of support are you using while painting and then transferring to the oven? Thanks
Re: Cerakote Application
What do you use to sand or blast the crown with when using Cerakote? I have only used duracoat. It says ok to sand with 600 for duracoat but i only see that using blasting media with creakote.
What do you use to sand or blast the crown with when using Cerakote? I have only used duracoat. It says ok to sand with 600 for duracoat but i only see that using blasting media with creakote.
Re: Cerakote Application
sand 600 is ok for sure
sand 600 is ok for sure
Re: Cerakote Application
I am looking to using #80 mesh aluminum oxide as the sandblasting media. Is that too coarse? It is not that available here(other finer mesh sizes) and is $128 a bag!
I am looking to using #80 mesh aluminum oxide as the sandblasting media. Is that too coarse? It is not that available here(other finer mesh sizes) and is $128 a bag!
Re: Cerakote Application
Phil1,
80 Grit AO is fine. Run your air at 60# and vary your blasting gun's distance from the part for desired aggressiveness level.
Darin Reiss
FFL/SOT in Haysville, KS
Phil1,
80 Grit AO is fine. Run your air at 60# and vary your blasting gun's distance from the part for desired aggressiveness level.
Darin Reiss
FFL/SOT in Haysville, KS
Re: Cerakote Application
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: jrb572</div><div class="ubbcode-body">What do you use to sand or blast the crown with when using Cerakote? I have only used duracoat. It says ok to sand with 600 for duracoat but i only see that using blasting media with creakote.</div></div>
Plug the muzzle with a pointed wooden dowel to protect. You'll also have to plug the chamber and bolt raceway, anything you don't want blasted. I make aluminum bolt plugs @ .696, blue tape and rubber corks (ACE) that plug the entire chamber. I blast with 120 grit AO. I think 10# costs $20.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: jrb572</div><div class="ubbcode-body">What do you use to sand or blast the crown with when using Cerakote? I have only used duracoat. It says ok to sand with 600 for duracoat but i only see that using blasting media with creakote.</div></div>
Plug the muzzle with a pointed wooden dowel to protect. You'll also have to plug the chamber and bolt raceway, anything you don't want blasted. I make aluminum bolt plugs @ .696, blue tape and rubber corks (ACE) that plug the entire chamber. I blast with 120 grit AO. I think 10# costs $20.
Re: Cerakote Application
Ok so after all the posts on the subject how do you prep the parts to be coated? Sand blast or gun scrubber/brake cleaner? I was wanting to do some steel slides and some polymer frames on a few handguns.
Ok so after all the posts on the subject how do you prep the parts to be coated? Sand blast or gun scrubber/brake cleaner? I was wanting to do some steel slides and some polymer frames on a few handguns.
Re: Cerakote Application
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: WM5L</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Ok so after all the posts on the subject how do you prep the parts to be coated? Sand blast or gun scrubber/brake cleaner? I was wanting to do some steel slides and some polymer frames on a few handguns. </div></div>
Degrease the parts, abrasive blast 100-120 grit Aluminum Oxide 80PSI, wash them down again with brake cleaner, etc to get the dust off, dry them thoroughly.
Final wipe with acetone, MEK, etc. sometimes if the parts have been lying about for a while after blasting.
Whisk them off with a clean brush and blow them off with clean air just before spraying.
Or at least that's what I've been doing thus far. Seems to be working OK for a hundred or so slides thus far.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: WM5L</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Ok so after all the posts on the subject how do you prep the parts to be coated? Sand blast or gun scrubber/brake cleaner? I was wanting to do some steel slides and some polymer frames on a few handguns. </div></div>
Degrease the parts, abrasive blast 100-120 grit Aluminum Oxide 80PSI, wash them down again with brake cleaner, etc to get the dust off, dry them thoroughly.
Final wipe with acetone, MEK, etc. sometimes if the parts have been lying about for a while after blasting.
Whisk them off with a clean brush and blow them off with clean air just before spraying.
Or at least that's what I've been doing thus far. Seems to be working OK for a hundred or so slides thus far.
Re: Cerakote Application
To begin. Like many have said, using the alum/oxide media is very important. Followed up by air and we then use an acetone wash prior to painting. If they are joined parts, heat will show you of any oil left in the joints. We use the air dry cerakote so no need for an oven. A HVLP gun helps ALOT over an airbrush. We use the #80 from Iwata I believe. Some people try to skimp on the amount of paint sprayed to conserve. If you skimp, the finish suffers and it needs to be redone, so no paint is saved then. CeraKote will stick to axle grease and is very forgiving but prep is the key. Blast, clean, clean, and then clean if needed, spray a little heavier at first til you get it dialed in and you will be fine. Experience will show you how much to dial the gun down to optimize paint sprayed versus what winds up on the part. When in doubt, spray more than less. We have used gunkote in the past. Durability is not as good as the cerakote in our opinion. Happy painting and shooting
To begin. Like many have said, using the alum/oxide media is very important. Followed up by air and we then use an acetone wash prior to painting. If they are joined parts, heat will show you of any oil left in the joints. We use the air dry cerakote so no need for an oven. A HVLP gun helps ALOT over an airbrush. We use the #80 from Iwata I believe. Some people try to skimp on the amount of paint sprayed to conserve. If you skimp, the finish suffers and it needs to be redone, so no paint is saved then. CeraKote will stick to axle grease and is very forgiving but prep is the key. Blast, clean, clean, and then clean if needed, spray a little heavier at first til you get it dialed in and you will be fine. Experience will show you how much to dial the gun down to optimize paint sprayed versus what winds up on the part. When in doubt, spray more than less. We have used gunkote in the past. Durability is not as good as the cerakote in our opinion. Happy painting and shooting
Re: Cerakote Application
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">If they are joined parts, heat will show you of any oil left in the joints. </div></div>
Good point.
A pistol slide is one thing, but a barreled action, particularly something with lots of "joined pars" is another.
AK's come to mind as something that just has to be pre-baked to drive contaminants out of the joints and reveal them so that they can be cleaned and the action re-blasted even.
I painted mine and it took a lot of work to get the oil to stop coming out.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">If they are joined parts, heat will show you of any oil left in the joints. </div></div>
Good point.
A pistol slide is one thing, but a barreled action, particularly something with lots of "joined pars" is another.
AK's come to mind as something that just has to be pre-baked to drive contaminants out of the joints and reveal them so that they can be cleaned and the action re-blasted even.
I painted mine and it took a lot of work to get the oil to stop coming out.
Re: Cerakote Application
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Mark Housel</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: WM5L</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Ok so after all the posts on the subject how do you prep the parts to be coated? Sand blast or gun scrubber/brake cleaner? I was wanting to do some steel slides and some polymer frames on a few handguns. </div></div>
Degrease the parts, abrasive blast 100-120 grit Aluminum Oxide 80PSI, wash them down again with brake cleaner, etc to get the dust off, dry them thoroughly.
Final wipe with acetone, MEK, etc. sometimes if the parts have been lying about for a while after blasting.
Whisk them off with a clean brush and blow them off with clean air just before spraying.
Or at least that's what I've been doing thus far. Seems to be working OK for a hundred or so slides thus far.
</div></div> Thank you
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Mark Housel</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: WM5L</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Ok so after all the posts on the subject how do you prep the parts to be coated? Sand blast or gun scrubber/brake cleaner? I was wanting to do some steel slides and some polymer frames on a few handguns. </div></div>
Degrease the parts, abrasive blast 100-120 grit Aluminum Oxide 80PSI, wash them down again with brake cleaner, etc to get the dust off, dry them thoroughly.
Final wipe with acetone, MEK, etc. sometimes if the parts have been lying about for a while after blasting.
Whisk them off with a clean brush and blow them off with clean air just before spraying.
Or at least that's what I've been doing thus far. Seems to be working OK for a hundred or so slides thus far.
</div></div> Thank you
Re: Cerakote Application
I have just been reading through the posts on this topic and have never seen more bad advice, made up facts and just complete crap.
NIC Industries has a Cerakote Applicatior Guide, which I helped write. If you can't locate it on their website email me and I will forward you (or anyone else) a copy.
Just to correct some very bad facts:
1. Cerakote is non-toxic, VOC free and 50 state exempt, unlike its teflon based competitors
2. Baking in a kitchen oven, or any other oven with exposed burners can ruin the finish and even severly damage the firearm, as the burners can reach in excess of 1200 degrees.
3. Cerakote outperforms all of its competitors in virtually every performance metric. 5,000 hours salt spray, 6,000 Tabor wear cycles, 9h Pencil hardness, etc. I have detailed product information on my website, which can be downloaded.
4. It doesn't "smell to high heaven" I work with it every day and have many years experience with the product.
5. Shelf life is one (1) year if not refrigerated, five (5) years if refrigerated
5. The prep suggested by some is way out there. I do coating for several other manufacturers, including Bravo18's AKM's, some guns need more than one cycle, but the correct prep isnt on this site.
6. There is too much more BS on this topic to respond to it all, but if anyone has questions and wants true fact based answers, just email me.
Regards,
-Ernie
Red Creek Tactical - NIC Industries Premier Partner - Certified Cerakote Applicator
[email protected]
www.redcreektactical.com
I have just been reading through the posts on this topic and have never seen more bad advice, made up facts and just complete crap.
NIC Industries has a Cerakote Applicatior Guide, which I helped write. If you can't locate it on their website email me and I will forward you (or anyone else) a copy.
Just to correct some very bad facts:
1. Cerakote is non-toxic, VOC free and 50 state exempt, unlike its teflon based competitors
2. Baking in a kitchen oven, or any other oven with exposed burners can ruin the finish and even severly damage the firearm, as the burners can reach in excess of 1200 degrees.
3. Cerakote outperforms all of its competitors in virtually every performance metric. 5,000 hours salt spray, 6,000 Tabor wear cycles, 9h Pencil hardness, etc. I have detailed product information on my website, which can be downloaded.
4. It doesn't "smell to high heaven" I work with it every day and have many years experience with the product.
5. Shelf life is one (1) year if not refrigerated, five (5) years if refrigerated
5. The prep suggested by some is way out there. I do coating for several other manufacturers, including Bravo18's AKM's, some guns need more than one cycle, but the correct prep isnt on this site.
6. There is too much more BS on this topic to respond to it all, but if anyone has questions and wants true fact based answers, just email me.
Regards,
-Ernie
Red Creek Tactical - NIC Industries Premier Partner - Certified Cerakote Applicator
[email protected]
www.redcreektactical.com
Re: Cerakote Application
What's the recommended procedure for doing a two tone cerakote job, ie the barreled action a main colour with flutes a second colour? Have done a number of single colour paint jobs but the twins will be my first attempt at a 2 tone barreled action.
Cheers guys,
JJ
What's the recommended procedure for doing a two tone cerakote job, ie the barreled action a main colour with flutes a second colour? Have done a number of single colour paint jobs but the twins will be my first attempt at a 2 tone barreled action.
Cheers guys,
JJ
Re: Cerakote Application
The general concept of smelling to high heaven is typically in reference to getting caught by wives in which case it certainly will get you caught as it does have a smell. You cannot stealth a curing without being in constant danger. Open some windows though and you'll be good if you have some time before wife or significant other comes home.
As for the disastrous results of using open element ranges there are enough success stories of dyi projects and beginners to at least deserve a look for those with no other options. Be smart and you can use an open element all day long. Maybe not the best option out there but when dollars count or for the weekend project it can work just fine.
The general concept of smelling to high heaven is typically in reference to getting caught by wives in which case it certainly will get you caught as it does have a smell. You cannot stealth a curing without being in constant danger. Open some windows though and you'll be good if you have some time before wife or significant other comes home.
As for the disastrous results of using open element ranges there are enough success stories of dyi projects and beginners to at least deserve a look for those with no other options. Be smart and you can use an open element all day long. Maybe not the best option out there but when dollars count or for the weekend project it can work just fine.
