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Cerakote inside Impact Action? Yay or Nay

LongRangeJunky

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Feb 19, 2017
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My impacts are slick as snot. I don't want to mess that up... I see images of Impacts cerakoted only on the outside of the receiver, and some inside and bolt body as well.

Any feedback on this? Does 100% cerakote inside and out gum up the action? I'd like to it to be all one color, but if feedback is negative I'll just do the bolt handle and outside of the action.

I have actions that run slick with cerakote on the bolt and inside of the action, so I could see it working fine.

Thanks for any input.
 
Any contacting surface like bolt faces, ejector, raceways, and lugs is a big no.

Otherwise there’s no harm in it.
 
What problem are you trying to solve by considering this course of action?

-Stan
Not trying to solve a problem. I'd just like to Cerakote my action OD Green to go with my McMillan stocks.

Wondering if Cerekote within the action / raceway area and on the bolt has had I'll affects on the extreme smoothness the Impacts have. As I said, I have had a custom 700 and a GAP rifle with 100% cerakote that are buttery smooth. I've been told by one or two custom builders that they dislike cerakoting the bolts and raceways on the Impacts, and another tell me the opposite, claiming it has no I'll affect "when done properly".
 
I've had cerakote make 2 actions very rough as mentioned above. I might be inclined to try Birdsong Black T as that has worked very well on a few actions for me. They have a green color of that. It seems much thinner than cerakote.
 
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When they are machining actions to less then 1 thou of accuracy and you put something that is roughly 3 thou thick on it you are just asking for problems.
You can ask Impact but I would bet you money that they will tell you not to do it. There might be one but I cant even think of a rifle action manufacture that cerakotes the inside. Only the outside.
 
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LRI did a few Remingtons inside and out for me a long time back that weren't gummy - but - a few other Cerakote applicators did both and the bolts ran like crap. I think I remember Chad saying they honed the action raceways to accommodate the additional Cerakote thickness.
 
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Beanland cerakotes everything on the action and bolt besides firing pin and spring of course. It wears off over time. It doesn't hurt anything and will not affect accuracy at all.
I should also clarify mine was a surgeon 591. Surgeons have plenty of tolerance to run cerakote. Impacts may be different though.
 
My impacts are slick as snot. I don't want to mess that up... I see images of Impacts cerakoted only on the outside of the receiver, and some inside and bolt body as well.

Any feedback on this? Does 100% cerakote inside and out gum up the action? I'd like to it to be all one color, but if feedback is negative I'll just do the bolt handle and outside of the action.

I have actions that run slick with cerakote on the bolt and inside of the action, so I could see it working fine.

Thanks for any input.
Measure it. If it has enough clearance, Cerakote will be fine. If is doesn' have enough clearance, you need to give it some more or skip the Cerakote.
 
I would not cerakote a bolt or inside an action. An action will never cycle better because of it and I would wager that any action that any of you have that cycle fine with cerakote would be even better without it.
 
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When they are machining actions to less then 1 thou of accuracy
By "accuracy", do you mean +/- tolerance to spec?
I believe you might be using the wrong term. Did you mean to something along the line of clearance or allowance?

and you put something that is roughly 3 thou thick on it you are just asking for problems.
You can ask Impact but I would bet you money that they will tell you not to do it.
If anyone is finishing with anywhere close to 3 thou thickness of CeraKote or anything else, they are applying the material incorrectly.

My H-Series is typically right around 0.0010 to 0.0014" thickness depending on the color while the E-Series is 0.0007 to 0.0009" thickness.

It's not like painting a damn birdhouse with a can of WalMart spray paint but more than a few "applicators" treat it like that.

There might be one but I cant even think of a rifle action manufacture that cerakotes the inside. Only the outside.
There are several.
Surgeon is probably the most recognized that did and still does apply CeraKote to the bolt body as well as the interior of the receiver.

KMW coats the inside of the receiver but uses TB-40 IonBond on the bolts.

Bottom line is that if a builder is offering complete rifles, it is their job to know and have control of the bolt to receiver clearance then deliver finishes that perform correctly for whatever the job is for that rifle.

./
 
There is a way to coat the entire action (receiver and bolt) and not have it emulate a square peg stuffed in a round hole.

A Sunnen LBB 1600 hone is a good example. Used with the appropriate abrasive setup, it'll hone the receiver bore to the required amount so that the coating doesn't gall to itself. This is a procedure I developed a decade ago, and we've done thousands of actions since.

Happy to help.
 
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By "accuracy", do you mean +/- tolerance to spec?
I believe you might be using the wrong term. Did you mean to something along the line of clearance or allowance?


If anyone is finishing with anywhere close to 3 thou thickness of CeraKote or anything else, they are applying the material incorrectly.

My H-Series is typically right around 0.0010 to 0.0014" thickness depending on the color while the E-Series is 0.0007 to 0.0009" thickness.

It's not like painting a damn birdhouse with a can of WalMart spray paint but more than a few "applicators" treat it like that.


There are several.
Surgeon is probably the most recognized that did and still does apply CeraKote to the bolt body as well as the interior of the receiver.

KMW coats the inside of the receiver but uses TB-40 IonBond on the bolts.

Bottom line is that if a builder is offering complete rifles, it is their job to know and have control of the bolt to receiver clearance then deliver finishes that perform correctly for whatever the job is for that rifle.

./
Terry,
Just sent you a PM. Thank you sir.
 
If youre choosing an action, it makes sense to choose the nitride/DLC version of it imo, and the black makes a nice contrast to just about any color.

Customer build on a Deviant. So smooth you can think it in and out of battery. No way was it getting coated. Looks great to me.
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I had my 458 Lott cerakoted entirely and I wouldn't do it again if it was done for free.

I hope the worthless fucker that did it gets Super AIDS.

I'm sure Terry and Chad can do it just fine, I still wouldn't, not for free, it just isn't even worth the possibility of trouble.

Not to me, not anymore, I wish I could remove the stuff from my 458 action, few hundred years of use may get it there.
 
It is generally a bad idea, could it be done probably but nitride etc is a better finish inside the action in my opinion. Obviously nitride has to be accounted for in heat treat though so that’s really better done during the original manufacturing.
 
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For this very reason I switched to KG Industries Nano series paints when coating actions. Kg goes on 1/2 the thickness of Cerakote to minimize clearance issues. If you have a sloppy factory action with loose tolerances then it really doesn't matter what you spray it with. Most custom actions don't like cerakote in the raceways, even when its applied correctly, which doesn't happen with most applicators. Another issue with applicators not doing the job right is blasting in the raceways (especially the internal lug faces) heavily, while prepping for paint. This can cause things to feel rough and gritty when they should be smooth. Good applicators are hard to find.
 
How would you go about just doing barreled action (outside action) only and getting the best job.
Seems like a dummy bolt would be nice but don’t have one of those!
 
Cool,i learned something.
Thanks
The real issue is if you dont use high temp tape then the glue will melt onto the action in the oven and get stuck on, some solvents and a little scrubbing cleans it up nicely though but if someone is doing this to make money would be time ahead with a bit pricier high temp tape. But blue painters tape and normal masking has worked on things I have done, just spray down onto it from an angle thats not peeling its edge up and itll protect the current finish and actually doesnt get eaten up in mine with 20-40 grit al oxide in the handful of things I have done.