Once something is Cerakoted, can you "Re-Cerakote" it? Can you re-apply a dirrerent color? Can you touch up areas? Do you have to remove it before re-applying?
Gunsmithing Cerakote Over Cerakote
- Thread starter Highground
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Re: Cerakote Over Cerakote
Sort of like paint on a car, if the base is good scuff it up and re-shoot.
That being said if the base color is air cured and you now want to put on oven cured this could be a problem. If this is the case I would lower the temp and increase the time to bake.
Cerakote is pretty strange stuff and you may end up using too much to over shoot a new color. This may require you to remove the old layer and start new.
Sort of like paint on a car, if the base is good scuff it up and re-shoot.
That being said if the base color is air cured and you now want to put on oven cured this could be a problem. If this is the case I would lower the temp and increase the time to bake.
Cerakote is pretty strange stuff and you may end up using too much to over shoot a new color. This may require you to remove the old layer and start new.
Re: Cerakote Over Cerakote
OK. Thanks for the advise.
OK. Thanks for the advise.
Re: Cerakote Over Cerakote
If your talking re-doing the entire rifle, then blast it and start over. If your doing a multi-layer camo job, then painting over a base coat is fine as long as you use the same series Cerakote.
If your talking about touching up a scratch... It's fine to make a quick pass to cover the scratch but IMO, if the scratch is bad enough to want to hit it again, just re-do that part over again.
Be careful not to over-spray. If you do it will leave a sand papery powder coat lookin finish. You can sometimes fix this with steel wool. But better off doing it right the first time.
Are you doing it yourself?
If your talking re-doing the entire rifle, then blast it and start over. If your doing a multi-layer camo job, then painting over a base coat is fine as long as you use the same series Cerakote.
If your talking about touching up a scratch... It's fine to make a quick pass to cover the scratch but IMO, if the scratch is bad enough to want to hit it again, just re-do that part over again.
Be careful not to over-spray. If you do it will leave a sand papery powder coat lookin finish. You can sometimes fix this with steel wool. But better off doing it right the first time.
Are you doing it yourself?
Re: Cerakote Over Cerakote
I have had success going over oven cure with air cure. I have touched up areas of oven cure with air cure but havnt done an overall recoat. I usually blast an old finish off if i have any concerns about adhesion.
I have had success going over oven cure with air cure. I have touched up areas of oven cure with air cure but havnt done an overall recoat. I usually blast an old finish off if i have any concerns about adhesion.
Re: Cerakote Over Cerakote
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: AZPrecision</div><div class="ubbcode-body">If your talking re-doing the entire rifle, then blast it and start over. If your doing a multi-layer camo job, then painting over a base coat is fine as long as you use the same series Cerakote.
If your talking about touching up a scratch... It's fine to make a quick pass to cover the scratch but IMO, if the scratch is bad enough to want to hit it again, just re-do that part over again.
Be careful not to over-spray. If you do it will leave a sand papery powder coat lookin finish. You can sometimes fix this with steel wool. But better off doing it right the first time.
Are you doing it yourself? </div></div>
What does "blast it" mean are you talking sandblast or can you use 400 grit sandpaper? thx
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: AZPrecision</div><div class="ubbcode-body">If your talking re-doing the entire rifle, then blast it and start over. If your doing a multi-layer camo job, then painting over a base coat is fine as long as you use the same series Cerakote.
If your talking about touching up a scratch... It's fine to make a quick pass to cover the scratch but IMO, if the scratch is bad enough to want to hit it again, just re-do that part over again.
Be careful not to over-spray. If you do it will leave a sand papery powder coat lookin finish. You can sometimes fix this with steel wool. But better off doing it right the first time.
Are you doing it yourself? </div></div>
What does "blast it" mean are you talking sandblast or can you use 400 grit sandpaper? thx
Re: Cerakote Over Cerakote
I sent the gun in to have it bedded after I had the barreled action Cerakoted. There is an area of noticable wear now on the left side of the receiver. My guess is that the gunsmith may have "cleaned" off some bedding compund or something, as I can also see small scratches that look like sanding scratches. The stainless base color is now visible through the Cerakote. If I hadn't just had it coated I would not care as much. My thought was to just have that area touched up.
I sent the gun in to have it bedded after I had the barreled action Cerakoted. There is an area of noticable wear now on the left side of the receiver. My guess is that the gunsmith may have "cleaned" off some bedding compund or something, as I can also see small scratches that look like sanding scratches. The stainless base color is now visible through the Cerakote. If I hadn't just had it coated I would not care as much. My thought was to just have that area touched up.
Re: Cerakote Over Cerakote
I did not plan to do it myself. I plan to have a local gunsmith (who originally coated it) do the work.
As a side note, he did not do the bedding job and I would not send the gun back to the smith who did.
I did not plan to do it myself. I plan to have a local gunsmith (who originally coated it) do the work.
As a side note, he did not do the bedding job and I would not send the gun back to the smith who did.
Re: Cerakote Over Cerakote
By blast it I mean media blasting at 100psi or so with aluminum oxide, 120 grit.
By blast it I mean media blasting at 100psi or so with aluminum oxide, 120 grit.
Re: Cerakote Over Cerakote
In order to put a camo pattern on a stock or bbl. what are you using to seperate the colour patterns. i.e. should I use masking tape because removal of the tape will leave an adhesive behind between colours?
What type of spray gun is reccomended is there a system with a .8mm tip and 4 oz cup(or similar) that anyone can reccomend?
I'm thinking a small airbrush, like badger.
thx
In order to put a camo pattern on a stock or bbl. what are you using to seperate the colour patterns. i.e. should I use masking tape because removal of the tape will leave an adhesive behind between colours?
What type of spray gun is reccomended is there a system with a .8mm tip and 4 oz cup(or similar) that anyone can reccomend?
I'm thinking a small airbrush, like badger.
thx
Re: Cerakote Over Cerakote
This is the spray gun I use. It is not the best by far, but it works. The only draw back is not being able to spray straight up or straight down unless you have a "full" cup.
I will post pics when done.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Husky-Siphon-Feed-Detail-Spray-Gun-/200624012078#vi-content
I have not totally finished my rifle yet but I had to touch up a spot and we will see how it turns out. (in the oven right now)
This is the spray gun I use. It is not the best by far, but it works. The only draw back is not being able to spray straight up or straight down unless you have a "full" cup.
I will post pics when done.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Husky-Siphon-Feed-Detail-Spray-Gun-/200624012078#vi-content
I have not totally finished my rifle yet but I had to touch up a spot and we will see how it turns out. (in the oven right now)
Re: Cerakote Over Cerakote
I have had good results with my Sharpe FX1000 Mini-HVLP and I know Brad at PCR has had the same with his Iwata.
I think most will work well if kept real clean.
I have had good results with my Sharpe FX1000 Mini-HVLP and I know Brad at PCR has had the same with his Iwata.
I think most will work well if kept real clean.
Re: Cerakote Over Cerakote
I also have the Husky, but it's the gravity fed that comes with two cups. I use the smaller of the two. When ever I'm not happy with the results, end up with a scratch, smear or any other imperfection, the finish is coming off completely. The color/hardener mix will never turn out exactly the same from batch to batch. It can be very close, but not exactly. That's a very good reason to mix more than you need for a complete job, and throw out a little.
As for taping, you can shoot your base color, flash it in the oven for 5 minutes, remove it, tape off what you want to keep, shoot the second color, flash again, and repeat process for a third color if doing three colors. These instructions came from NIC over a phone conversation I had with them last year. I have not yet tried it. I do know that 5 minutes in the oven dries it to the touch, but does not cure it to where the new color won't stick correctly. So the NIC instructions do make sence to me. They also said "do not apply new Cerakote over cured Cerakote. Good luck.
I also have the Husky, but it's the gravity fed that comes with two cups. I use the smaller of the two. When ever I'm not happy with the results, end up with a scratch, smear or any other imperfection, the finish is coming off completely. The color/hardener mix will never turn out exactly the same from batch to batch. It can be very close, but not exactly. That's a very good reason to mix more than you need for a complete job, and throw out a little.
As for taping, you can shoot your base color, flash it in the oven for 5 minutes, remove it, tape off what you want to keep, shoot the second color, flash again, and repeat process for a third color if doing three colors. These instructions came from NIC over a phone conversation I had with them last year. I have not yet tried it. I do know that 5 minutes in the oven dries it to the touch, but does not cure it to where the new color won't stick correctly. So the NIC instructions do make sence to me. They also said "do not apply new Cerakote over cured Cerakote. Good luck.
Re: Cerakote Over Cerakote
I have finished my rifle and it looks great. You cannot tell that I touched up some areas. I have not tried to scrape it or see how well the cerakote stuck but hopefully I will get to it soon.
Has anyone tried to bake cerakote on a nonmetal surface? I want to cerakote my synthetic stock, but also do not want to melt it down. I was thinking bake it at 200 degrees for 2.5 to 3 hours. anyone have suggestions?
I have finished my rifle and it looks great. You cannot tell that I touched up some areas. I have not tried to scrape it or see how well the cerakote stuck but hopefully I will get to it soon.
Has anyone tried to bake cerakote on a nonmetal surface? I want to cerakote my synthetic stock, but also do not want to melt it down. I was thinking bake it at 200 degrees for 2.5 to 3 hours. anyone have suggestions?
Re: Cerakote Over Cerakote
Yes, you can cure the cerakote over plastics. Cure at 180 to 200 degrees for 2.5 hours. Make sure the plastic or what ever substrate you are oven curing can take the temp.
Brandon
Yes, you can cure the cerakote over plastics. Cure at 180 to 200 degrees for 2.5 hours. Make sure the plastic or what ever substrate you are oven curing can take the temp.
Brandon
Re: Cerakote Over Cerakote
I am going to do some testing first but hopefully in the next few weeks I can get my stock painted. We will see what projects get priority #1( the gun or the honey do list)
I am going to do some testing first but hopefully in the next few weeks I can get my stock painted. We will see what projects get priority #1( the gun or the honey do list)
Re: Cerakote Over Cerakote
Be careful heating the stocks. B&c have low tolerance for heat.....like 140ish tops.
Be careful heating the stocks. B&c have low tolerance for heat.....like 140ish tops.
Re: Cerakote Over Cerakote
Just did a Glock lower at 150 degrees for two hours, and it came out perfect. I cure the H series on McMillan stocks at 150 also, same amount of time, 2 hours. Turns out great.
Just did a Glock lower at 150 degrees for two hours, and it came out perfect. I cure the H series on McMillan stocks at 150 also, same amount of time, 2 hours. Turns out great.
Re: Cerakote Over Cerakote
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Highground</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I did not plan to do it myself. I plan to have a local gunsmith (who originally coated it) do the work.
As a side note, he did not do the bedding job and I would not send the gun back to the smith who did. </div></div>
Some things for you to consider: While you can use C-Series to do minor touch-up on fully cured H-Series, the colors and sheens are not exactly the same and some colors arent available in C-Series that are in H-Series.
Once H-Series is fully cured you cannot effectivley apply another coat of H-Series, it wont adhere well and will easily come off.
Hopfully your coater will give you a good deal on a re-do, which would give you the result it sounds like your looking for.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Highground</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I did not plan to do it myself. I plan to have a local gunsmith (who originally coated it) do the work.
As a side note, he did not do the bedding job and I would not send the gun back to the smith who did. </div></div>
Some things for you to consider: While you can use C-Series to do minor touch-up on fully cured H-Series, the colors and sheens are not exactly the same and some colors arent available in C-Series that are in H-Series.
Once H-Series is fully cured you cannot effectivley apply another coat of H-Series, it wont adhere well and will easily come off.
Hopfully your coater will give you a good deal on a re-do, which would give you the result it sounds like your looking for.
Re: Cerakote Over Cerakote
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: cfish36</div><div class="ubbcode-body">This is the spray gun I use. It is not the best by far, but it works. The only draw back is not being able to spray straight up or straight down unless you have a "full" cup.
<span style="color: #FF0000"><span style="font-weight: bold">I will post pics when do</span>ne.</span>
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Husky-Siphon-Feed-Detail-Spray-Gun-/200624012078#vi-content
I have not totally finished my rifle yet but I had to touch up a spot and we will see how it turns out. (in the oven right now) </div></div>
Lies.
When thinking about doing touch-ups or stripping and re coating only part of a firearm, are there noticeable differences between lots as well?
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: cfish36</div><div class="ubbcode-body">This is the spray gun I use. It is not the best by far, but it works. The only draw back is not being able to spray straight up or straight down unless you have a "full" cup.
<span style="color: #FF0000"><span style="font-weight: bold">I will post pics when do</span>ne.</span>
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Husky-Siphon-Feed-Detail-Spray-Gun-/200624012078#vi-content
I have not totally finished my rifle yet but I had to touch up a spot and we will see how it turns out. (in the oven right now) </div></div>
Lies.
When thinking about doing touch-ups or stripping and re coating only part of a firearm, are there noticeable differences between lots as well?
Re: Cerakote Over Cerakote
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Phil1</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: AZPrecision</div><div class="ubbcode-body">If your talking re-doing the entire rifle, then blast it and start over. If your doing a multi-layer camo job, then painting over a base coat is fine as long as you use the same series Cerakote.
If your talking about touching up a scratch... It's fine to make a quick pass to cover the scratch but IMO, if the scratch is bad enough to want to hit it again, just re-do that part over again.
Be careful not to over-spray. If you do it will leave a sand papery powder coat lookin finish. You can sometimes fix this with steel wool. But better off doing it right the first time.
Are you doing it yourself? </div></div>
What does "blast it" mean are you talking sandblast or can you use 400 grit sandpaper? thx </div></div>
400 grit really won't do much for you. Least in my experience with the stuff.
CeraKote requires an etched surface to ensure long term adhesion. Glass beads, sand, and/or sandpaper (of any grit) really won't do this. You need an abrasive that cuts the surface. Think of it as a zillion little tiny dovetails. The material flows into these tiny crevasses and mechanically locks to the surface.
The most efficient way to do this is to use a blast cabinet. Aluminum Oxide is a great media although its very expensive. lately I've started using Garnet which is much more affordable and still does a very nice job.
Hope this answered your questions.
C.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Phil1</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: AZPrecision</div><div class="ubbcode-body">If your talking re-doing the entire rifle, then blast it and start over. If your doing a multi-layer camo job, then painting over a base coat is fine as long as you use the same series Cerakote.
If your talking about touching up a scratch... It's fine to make a quick pass to cover the scratch but IMO, if the scratch is bad enough to want to hit it again, just re-do that part over again.
Be careful not to over-spray. If you do it will leave a sand papery powder coat lookin finish. You can sometimes fix this with steel wool. But better off doing it right the first time.
Are you doing it yourself? </div></div>
What does "blast it" mean are you talking sandblast or can you use 400 grit sandpaper? thx </div></div>
400 grit really won't do much for you. Least in my experience with the stuff.
CeraKote requires an etched surface to ensure long term adhesion. Glass beads, sand, and/or sandpaper (of any grit) really won't do this. You need an abrasive that cuts the surface. Think of it as a zillion little tiny dovetails. The material flows into these tiny crevasses and mechanically locks to the surface.
The most efficient way to do this is to use a blast cabinet. Aluminum Oxide is a great media although its very expensive. lately I've started using Garnet which is much more affordable and still does a very nice job.
Hope this answered your questions.
C.
Re: Cerakote Over Cerakote
Chad, I happily use garnet too. I have not tried yet, but they make the stuff right here in st. Maries, id. Perhaps I can buy it by the dump truck.
Chad, I happily use garnet too. I have not tried yet, but they make the stuff right here in st. Maries, id. Perhaps I can buy it by the dump truck.
Re: Cerakote Over Cerakote
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: C. Dixon</div><div class="ubbcode-body">
400 grit really won't do much for you. Least in my experience with the stuff.
CeraKote requires an etched surface to ensure long term adhesion. Glass beads, sand, and/or sandpaper (of any grit) really won't do this. You need an abrasive that cuts the surface. Think of it as a zillion little tiny dovetails. The material flows into these tiny crevasses and mechanically locks to the surface.
The most efficient way to do this is to use a blast cabinet. Aluminum Oxide is a great media although its very expensive. lately I've started using Garnet which is much more affordable and still does a very nice job.
Hope this answered your questions.
C. </div></div>
I am switching from GunKote to CeraKote ~ at least going to give it a try.
I am currently using K-Phos under the GK ~ is it OK to use it under CeraKote or would I be better off with nothing under the CeraKote?
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: C. Dixon</div><div class="ubbcode-body">
400 grit really won't do much for you. Least in my experience with the stuff.
CeraKote requires an etched surface to ensure long term adhesion. Glass beads, sand, and/or sandpaper (of any grit) really won't do this. You need an abrasive that cuts the surface. Think of it as a zillion little tiny dovetails. The material flows into these tiny crevasses and mechanically locks to the surface.
The most efficient way to do this is to use a blast cabinet. Aluminum Oxide is a great media although its very expensive. lately I've started using Garnet which is much more affordable and still does a very nice job.
Hope this answered your questions.
C. </div></div>
I am switching from GunKote to CeraKote ~ at least going to give it a try.
I am currently using K-Phos under the GK ~ is it OK to use it under CeraKote or would I be better off with nothing under the CeraKote?
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