I’m reloading 2x fired brass that has not needed to be trimmed after resizing. Do I need to chamfer with a VLD before I seat Berger bullets even though I didn’t trim? In the past I have chamfered virgin brass because the Bergers would scrape on the case neck. If I did chamfer I assume there is no reason to deburr? Just curious. Thanks guys.
- Thread starter leclairk
- Start date
Thanks
This is why you want a henderson. Even if its not trimming, its cleaning up the chamfer and deburring so you have the same neck tension everytime.
I only deburr (outside) if the brass is virgin and/or after I've trimmed it. I purposely do not deburr every load cycle.
I always chamfer (inside), every time, every load cycle... because those scrapes and scratches on the bullet jackets aren't just cosmetic, at best they just fuck up and lower your BC and/or induce yaw issues, maybe mess with neck tension, at worst they can contribute to bullets blowing up if they're on the edge of their max RPM and the scrapes/scratches compromise the jackets.
I always chamfer (inside), every time, every load cycle... because those scrapes and scratches on the bullet jackets aren't just cosmetic, at best they just fuck up and lower your BC and/or induce yaw issues, maybe mess with neck tension, at worst they can contribute to bullets blowing up if they're on the edge of their max RPM and the scrapes/scratches compromise the jackets.
M-die and fuck that noise.
Its commonly suggested to chamfer new (eg Lapua) brass, since they leave the factory squared-off. Once they are chamfered, the firing process alone should not make them square-edged again. What makes them squared off is trimming. As for the "deburr", a 45/30˚ etc chamfer tool typicall removes any cutting burr from a 90˚ trim. So the classic chamfer/deburr is a single step. Any subsequent "burr" is typically trivial. If its felt necessary, you can simply neck-brush as the final finishing step and bee good to go 99.99% of the time.
I shoot alot of 400-1000 yard matches and chamfering and deburring new brass is key to small groups. My process is to trim, chamfer and deburr using a forster 3 way cutter. Next step is to spin the cut end of the neck on a piece of red scotch brite to clean up the cut end so its smooth to the touch. I also use redding dry lube when seating bullets. This keeps any scratches from happening when seating bullets. I have pulled down old loads using a kinetic puller and the projectiles are scratch free.
Also forgot to mention that I typically run .002 neck tension in my reloading process. Higher neck tensions could create some problems scarring projectiles when seating.
PSA for people that aren't familiar with red scotchbrite. Red scotchbrite is charged with a ≈ 600 grit cutting agent (Aluminum Oxide). Aluminium oxide will shed during use and contaminate the work surfaces. In normal use, best practice is to flush the surface with appropriate sequence to remove any grit contamination. Use common sense with this stuff, as with anything containg grit or dirt that is going anywhere near your chamber.
Green is the absolute worst, saw a meat head try to clean paint overspray off the windshield of his brandnew Chevy Silverado.
Didnt say shit just sat back and watched trying to keep a straight face.
After all the steps I always wash my rounds in dawn dish soap and air dry for a day before loading.
