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Choosing My First Reloading Setup

AHart76

Private
Full Member
Minuteman
Feb 14, 2017
165
80
Haubstadt, Indiana
So I am trying to get a list together of what Equipment I want to start reloading for my 6.5 Creedmoor. I use the gun for shooting steel and PRS type shooting, benchrest accuracy is not what I am after. I want to get a good idea of how much all the gear is gonna cost. Here’s what I have so far, but all these are just ideas, if you think I’d be better off with something else, please say so!

Press: Have been thinking RCBS

Dies: these really confuse me cause they can be anywhere from a 40 dollar set to $250 for one die. I like the idea of a micrometer seating die. Getting a Hornady Set and a Micro-Just stem seems like an economical way to go, anybody use this set up? Or would I be better off with a higher end set?

Scale: what digital scale is the best?

Thrower: Would love a chargemaster lite if budget allows

Brass Cleaning: I can use a buddies dry tumbler to clean my once fired Hornady I’ve been saving to start, but would eventually like a wet tumbler with SS media as I’ve read it gets brass cleaner and cleans the inside of cases better. Is this true? If so maybe a Hornady tumbler?

Brass Prep: no idea, would like to avoid using hand tools, maybe the RCBS prep station?

Misc: I have digital calipers, would probably need the Hornady OAL, headspace gauge and bullet comparator.

I am sure I am forgetting things I need. I could be going in the totally wrong direction with all of my ideas. I would greatly appreciate any piece of advice anyone is willing to give me. Sorry for the long winded post, but thanks to anyone who is willing to give me a little guidance!
 
So I am trying to get a list together of what Equipment I want to start reloading for my 6.5 Creedmoor. I use the gun for shooting steel and PRS type shooting, benchrest accuracy is not what I am after. I want to get a good idea of how much all the gear is gonna cost. Here’s what I have so far, but all these are just ideas, if you think I’d be better off with something else, please say so!

Press: Have been thinking RCBS- A rock chucker is a fine way to start out and wont ever need upgrading

Dies: these really confuse me cause they can be anywhere from a 40 dollar set to $250 for one die. I like the idea of a micrometer seating die. Getting a Hornady Set and a Micro-Just stem seems like an economical way to go, anybody use this set up? Or would I be better off with a higher end set? That will be fine, the hornady custom dies are fine and I have a couple sets myself. Actually just bought another set today. The more expensive sets are actually bushing that allow you to vary the diameters you size the necks to, just more in depth complicated expensive stuff I wouldnt bother with for a beginner.

Scale: what digital scale is the best? The gempro 250 is a good scale thats not uber expensive, just not that responsive to trickling. I would go for a beam over a pocket digital.

Thrower: Would love a chargemaster lite if budget allows I would def go with a charg emaster over a gempro and trickler. They are actually on sale or at least rebated for 100 bucks off the 299.99 price right now which is a great price. Worth every moment to not have to be actively weighing the stuff yourself.

Brass Cleaning: I can use a buddies dry tumbler to clean my once fired Hornady I’ve been saving to start, but would eventually like a wet tumbler with SS media as I’ve read it gets brass cleaner and cleans the inside of cases better. Is this true? If so maybe a Hornady tumbler? Stainless removes carbon in the necks which acts as a natural lubricant allowing for consistent neck tension and reduced cold welding. Now Im not saying to do it vs vibrate as there are camps on both sides of the issue but its something you can read up on.

Brass Prep: no idea, would like to avoid using hand tools, maybe the RCBS prep station? Thats nice but depending on your loading aspirations (number of cartridges youll reload) the little crow wft will be nice to have, just chuck it up and go. If lots of different stuff a traditional lathe will be the most adaptable.

Misc: I have digital calipers, would probably need the Hornady OAL, headspace gauge and bullet comparator. Get both the head space comparators and the bullet comparators. You cant load accurately if you cant measure accurately.

I am sure I am forgetting things I need. I could be going in the totally wrong direction with all of my ideas. I would greatly appreciate any piece of advice anyone is willing to give me. Sorry for the long winded post, but thanks to anyone who is willing to give me a little guidance!

Priming, get a lee ergo primer with the tray or something handheld, its much nicer than the press mounted primers.
 
Press: CO-AX
Dies Redding two die micrometer set.
RCBS prep station for chamfering and deburing case mouth.
Little crow gun works trimmer
Rcbs chargemaster. (Not the light)
Stainless tumbler from STM get the black one.

I consistently make 1st round hits at 1k on 1/2 MOA targets using these tools.

Also buy Lapua brass and stop all brass prep all together except trimming, chamfering, debuting.



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RCBS Rockchuker is a great first press
I would tell you to get a Forster Micrometer Seating Die and Forster Full Length Sizing die. The easiest dies to you that will make very consistent and accurate ammo
RCBS Chargemaster and if you cant afford that then a good beam scale.
Skip the thrower, get a Chargemaster or save up for a Chargemaster

Get a dry tumbler and tumble in corn cob. I have every tumbler you can imagine. I dont use SS anymore, a ton of work, and you gain NOTHING over dry tumbling. Because your brass looks pretty and is sparkling doesnt make it shoot any better. I promise you that and there is a reason bench rest shooters dry tumble and dont care about dirty primer pockets.

A good brass prep station saves a lot of time and hand pain. Lyman, Hornady, Franford Arsenal are all good ones.

Hornady Overall Length Gauge (with 6.5cm modified case), Hornady Case Headspace Gauge, and Hornady Bullet Comparator are essential to proper reloading

A cheap Universal Decapping die is awesome to have and what I use to decap my precision rifle brass.

 
Okay, sounds like the RockChucker is a go.

Worlds Finest Trimmer seems like am almost must, is any chamfering required after trimming with it?

I’m sure the Forster Dies are nicer, but the Hornady dies with the Micro-Just would make the budget a lot more obtainable.

A hand primer would be required.

Why the Chargemaster 1500 over the Chargemaster Lite?

All the Hornady Measurment tools are a for sure also.

Doing some research on Wet vs Dry tumbling.
 
Get a Giraud Tri Way. Same as the WFT but changers and deburs also. You will have to do those 2 separate steps after trimming with the WFT.

I think the Lite is the new CM and they are doing away with the 1500 if I recall.
 
Is Giraud making the triway in 6.5 creed now? Last I heard he wasn’t which was why I said to go wft. Yes, the wft will require chamfer and deburring still.

I also dont see a reason why the lite wouldnt be fine. It’s had reviews just as good as the 1500 from the bit I’ve seen.

The hornady dies were on sale at midway for 31 plus you get a box of bullets free (well 7 bucks s&h) and the 130 interlocks are what I’m loading for the 270 anyways so really it’s like the dies and bullets both were $14(=31-24+7). Other stuff took up the amount for 15 off the total and free shipping. Hard to pass on loading for a new rifle at that cost.
 
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I thought the lite was super slow in dropping charges? I watched a review of it sometime ago and recall that was his issue.


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I thought the lite was super slow in dropping charges? I watched a review of it sometime ago and recall that was his issue.

I researched it and yeah, it is a bit slower but thats not a bad thing, it also reportedly overthrows less and thats of much more importance to me than just the initial dump being faster on a 1500 and then having to do it again due to overthrow (only an issue on certain powder type/amount combos). Really you cant go too wrong either way from what I can tell. Six of one, half dozen of the other.

Why is the WFT better than the Hornady trimmer?

The WFT doesnt do any better of a job and in many aspects is limited compared to the hornady lathe. I asked if you had aspirations of loading for other calibers initially because if you are then the 70 bucks per WFT adds up quickly and depending on how many other cartridges it could becomes cost prohibitive. What is great about the WFT though is that once you get it set up you are always set up and can chuck it up quick and trim a bunch of brass quickly with zero set up hassle (the cumulative time savings can really add up if you tinker with various chamberings). The hornady will require you to set it up each time you change the cartridge you are trimming for and it requires you knitpicking and making little tiny changes etc, just piddly crap trying to zero in on one particular measurement. So really its how much you expect to grow this reloading habit. The RCBS trim pro 2 is more expensive but it has a slightly more refinded adjustment that can make making those little changes a little less bothersome plus you can get a trimmer head for it that will chamfer and deburr at the same time but its a bit more expensive to set it up like that as well.

You really dont pay more for a better product as most available trimmers these days can spit out accurately cut brass, what you pay more for is your time. Time spent per piece trimming. Time setting it up. I AM NOT TELLING YOU TO GET A GIRAUD BENCH TOP TRIMMER but I can swap to a new caliber and trim 100 pieces in under 10 minutes with it no sweat. Was is super expensive? Yes. Does it save me 80% of the time trimming brass? Yes. That time savings is worth it to me as Im running that much through it regularly for a variety of cases. I used to trim with a little lee hand stud. It would take me 2 hours to trim 50 cases. I spent less than 10 bucks for it though.



WFT- $70
[IMG2=JSON]{"data-align":"none","data-size":"full","height":"391","width":"670","src":"https:\/\/littlecrowgunworks.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/09\/WFT03-3-2.jpg"}[/IMG2]

Hornady- $80
[IMG2=JSON]{"data-align":"none","data-size":"full","height":"461","width":"615","src":"https:\/\/media.midwayusa.com\/productimages\/880x660\/Primary\/315\/315831.jpg"}[/IMG2]

RCBS Trim Pro 2- $100
[IMG2=JSON]{"data-align":"none","data-size":"full","height":"454","width":"605","src":"https:\/\/media.midwayusa.com\/productimages\/880x660\/Primary\/448\/448512.jpg"}[/IMG2]
RCBS Triway trimmer blade- $50
[IMG2=JSON]{"data-align":"none","data-size":"full","height":"404","width":"538","src":"https:\/\/media.midwayusa.com\/productimages\/880x660\/Primary\/251\/251948.jpg"}[/IMG2]

Lee Trimmer- $10 and a soul sucking about of labor
[IMG2=JSON]{"data-align":"none","data-size":"full","src":"https:\/\/leeprecision.com\/userfiles\/images\/casetrimmer.jpg"}[/IMG2]
 
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I’ll throw in a cheap flash hole uniforming tool. Lapua brass probably won’t need it but it makes me feel good. Only needs to be done once per cartridge.

I tumble in walnut shells and add a bit of “Nu-Finish” and they come out just fine with no seating or release issues.

Either you dpend owns a lot of money on fancy equipment or you do things manually. I used a beam balance and trickler. Takes longer but it is exact. I also periodically re-check my zero on the balance. I use plain old calipers and check distance to the lands the old fashioned way- put a bullet in the case in question, chamber it in the rifle in question and use the bolt to seat the bullet. Then measure OAL. That is your “zero”. You then come down from zero to be that distance off the lands. Recording this data, along with your round count and load data allows you to track erosion. So check it every couple hundred rounds or if you change projectiles for sure.

Many good old books out there- handloading for Precision is a good one- and these should be top of your list.
 
I researched it and yeah, it is a bit slower but thats not a bad thing, it also reportedly overthrows less and thats of much more importance to me than just the initial dump being faster on a 1500 and then having to do it again due to overthrow (only an issue on certain powder type/amount combos). Really you cant go too wrong either way from what I can tell. Six of one, half dozen of the other.



The WFT doesnt do any better of a job and in many aspects is limited compared to the hornady lathe. I asked if you had aspirations of loading for other calibers initially because if you are then the 70 bucks per WFT adds up quickly and depending on how many other cartridges it could becomes cost prohibitive. What is great about the WFT though is that once you get it set up you are always set up and can chuck it up quick and trim a bunch of brass quickly with zero set up hassle (the cumulative time savings can really add up if you tinker with various chamberings). The hornady will require you to set it up each time you change the cartridge you are trimming for and it requires you knitpicking and making little tiny changes etc, just piddly crap trying to zero in on one particular measurement. So really its how much you expect to grow this reloading habit. The RCBS trim pro 2 is more expensive but it has a slightly more refinded adjustment that can make making those little changes a little less bothersome plus you can get a trimmer head for it that will chamfer and deburr at the same time but its a bit more expensive to set it up like that as well.

You really dont pay more for a better product as most available trimmers these days can spit out accurately cut brass, what you pay more for is your time. Time spent per piece trimming. Time setting it up. I AM NOT TELLING YOU TO GET A GIRAUD BENCH TOP TRIMMER but I can swap to a new caliber and trim 100 pieces in under 10 minutes with it no sweat. Was is super expensive? Yes. Does it save me 80% of the time trimming brass? Yes. That time savings is worth it to me as Im running that much through it regularly for a variety of cases. I used to trim with a little lee hand stud. It would take me 2 hours to trim 50 cases. I spent less than 10 bucks for it though.



WFT- $70
[IMG2=JSON]{"data-align":"none","data-size":"full","height":"391","width":"670","src":"https:\/\/littlecrowgunworks.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/09\/WFT03-3-2.jpg"}[/IMG2]

Hornady- $80
[IMG2=JSON]{"data-align":"none","data-size":"full","height":"461","width":"615","src":"https:\/\/media.midwayusa.com\/productimages\/880x660\/Primary\/315\/315831.jpg"}[/IMG2]

RCBS Trim Pro 2- $100
[IMG2=JSON]{"data-align":"none","data-size":"full","height":"454","width":"605","src":"https:\/\/media.midwayusa.com\/productimages\/880x660\/Primary\/448\/448512.jpg"}[/IMG2]
RCBS Triway trimmer blade- $50
[IMG2=JSON]{"data-align":"none","data-size":"full","height":"404","width":"538","src":"https:\/\/media.midwayusa.com\/productimages\/880x660\/Primary\/251\/251948.jpg"}[/IMG2]

Lee Trimmer- $10 and a soul sucking about of labor
[IMG2=JSON]{"data-align":"none","data-size":"full","src":"https:\/\/leeprecision.com\/userfiles\/images\/casetrimmer.jpg"}[/IMG2]

Does WFT really only work for one caliber? Then you spend another $70 for another caliber?

I haven't trimmed anything yet. I bought a NIB Hornady trimmer on the PX for $35, so that's what I'm going with. Just wanted to make sure there wasn't a quality difference. I won't be trimming but maybe once or twice a year, so speed just isn't that important to me. If that changes down the road, I'll buy the Giraud.
 
Yes, the wft has the shape of the case designed into it so that it holds that one particular case exactly right and others be damned. But it is convenient.

If youre only only going to be using it once per year for the 6.5 creed and nothing else the hornady will do equally as well as you’ll retain the settings from last time so no loss in time and effort there, plus the fact that you got it for a great price makes that a winning choice.
 
I am only looking to reload 6.5 Creedmoor right now, so the WFT would probably be a good way to go as I can set it and forget it. If I start reloading for other calibers I will probably look into a different style trimmer then.

A flash hole uniforming tool would probably be a good idea starting out with this once fired Hornady.

For my first round of cleaning I could probably borrow a buddies dry cleaner. I’m not sure what media he uses or anything but he get awesome groups from his 6x47, so it must be working.

I am thinking the RCBS bench top case prep station would probably be a big time saver, as brass prep seems to be the most intensive part.

As far as everything else, I am tempted to just buy the RCBS kit, and trickle powder on that beam scale. I know I just mentioned saving time, but the charge weights is something I want to be meticulous about. My SD with this Hornady was 19 I believe the one time I chronoed the gun, so I am really looking to get that down!
 
Just a thought - the cleanliness of your friend's brass likely has close to zero contribution to his small groups. Dry tumble is more than good enough, though :)

I use the WFT for 6.5CM for exactly the same reason - only rifle caliber I'm loading for at the moment, so no need to spend more money or have more complexity to deal with. I have the Lyman case prep center, personally, but the RCBS is pretty much the same deal. I like that a lot better than hand tools (which I've used in the past - they're tedious as hell). My experience w/ Hornady brass fired once in my gun is that it needed "all the work" - notably, a trim, followed necessarily by inside/outside chamfering, plus flash hole deburring and primer pocket uniforming (if you're so inclined to go that far).

I suspect you're going to find "dump and trickle" to be a little annoying after a while, but it will certainly get it done. One piece of advice w/ a beam balance... don't trust a scale at rest. Even the very best beam balances can hit a point where they have inertia built up and the arm doesn't move even though the weight changed. You want to see the indicator moving slightly past center with an even amount to either side of it to get a reliable charge weight. I've used a beam balance for years for handgun ammo, but it's mainly been because I'd only spot check a charge, and then load a bunch, and the beam balance is dead nuts reliable and plenty fast for that kind of work. For rifle, weighing every charge, I'd probably go jump off the roof - but then, I'm impatient and would rather be shooting them than reloading them... ha ha
 
I bought the RCBS kit and dump/trickle on the beam scale. It's tedious, but you know the charges are good.
 
I am trying to pencil out 2 different orders of RCBS stuff, one from Cabela’s and the other from Midway. RCBS has a rebate deal going on right now that is only 1 per address, so one of the 2 I will put in my dads name and ship to his address to get 2 rebates. Always gotta find those loop holes! What are some other websites to price check around on? Might be able to put together exactly what I want for cheaper than I thought!
 
I am trying to pencil out 2 different orders of RCBS stuff, one from Cabela’s and the other from Midway. RCBS has a rebate deal going on right now that is only 1 per address, so one of the 2 I will put in my dads name and ship to his address to get 2 rebates. Always gotta find those loop holes! What are some other websites to price check around on? Might be able to put together exactly what I want for cheaper than I thought!

Aside from cabelas and midway: brownells, powder valley, natchez, midsouth shooters, precision reloading, bullets, brunos, grafs, amazon and ebay. And more

I like brownells as my first point go to stop as they are just as big as midway and you can google their coupons daily and theres usually a 10-15% off coupon and free shipping. Midway usually seems to be one coupon or the other. I get a lot at brownells. Usually an order a week it seems. Ive ordered from the above though when they are the only ones with it or have sales themselves.

You seem to be on the right track shopping around and figuring out how to make the best use of your rebates etc, keep it up

Not sure of any vendors on the hide that deal exclusively in the reloading stuff but I think Milehigh may have some?
 
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Okay, so I am thinking my best value with the rebates would order the RCBS Master Reloading Kit and Chargemaster 1500 from cabela’s. That would get me in the highest rebate category, and then order the trim mate and other acsessories from Midway when they come in stock. I should get a mid level rebate on that. This is gonna get me everything I need for much cheaper than I expected!
 
I think you can do much better than that. Both of those at cabelas are 729 total, natchez is 519. That will get you to the 499.99 level for the largest rebate and still save you 200 bucks on top of the 175 coming back in the rebate which brings our net to 344.

Natchez Chargemaster for 269,
https://www.natchezss.com/rcbs-charg...-110-volt.html

Supremem master kit 249
https://www.natchezss.com/rcbs-rock-...500-scale.html



However the kit, with its dump and beam, becomes redundant when you get a chargemaster. Ive seen the rock chucker go on sale for 100 bucks at times along with ever other piece too. Im trying to see if we could splice this up a bit skipping the kit and then useless extras and find a suitable alternative.



Edit: At Natchez you can get the CM for 269 and the hand primer for 60 gets you to 330 which is good for a 100 rebate which brings the net to 230 for your address.

Midway has a rock chucker for 115 though its back ordered. This brings me to think that with just the stuff in the kit the above CM and master kit both will be the best value. But if we add on the back ordered rcbs trim pro for 110 and a reloading tray for 9 that takes us to 250. A primer pocket brush, powder funnel, media separator (for when you get a tumbler the rcbs are all priced too high right now to include in this rebate situation now, they can be had for 45 bucks at other times) and a chamfer and deburr tool brings our total to 311 which is good for another 100 rebate to make it 211 for your dads address.

So this way our total net is 230+211 for 441 total. Sure you dont get a redundant powder dump and beam scale but you also get a trimmer that you will never have to buy anything else for again for when you inevitably add a new rifle to reload for instead and some more shit too. You just have to deal with being back ordered for a bit.
 
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Id say if your starting out start with pistol loading. Its less stuff to buy and you learn some of the process. After that spend big on the press and small on the little replaceable items.

I went dillon 550 on press
Dillon Carbide 3 die set then upgraded seating die
Dillon scale and small trickler then upgraded to chargemaster
rcbs trimmer then upgraded to a dillon press mounted
basic hand tool set for prepping then upgraded to a rcbs prep station
vibratory tumbler then upgraded to bigdawg we tumbler

Ive upgraded everything I have over the past 15 years except the press and I like having the originals for small tasks every now and then
 
Id say if your starting out start with pistol loading. Its less stuff to buy and you learn some of the process. After that spend big on the press and small on the little replaceable items.

I went dillon 550 on press
Dillon Carbide 3 die set then upgraded seating die
Dillon scale and small trickler then upgraded to chargemaster
rcbs trimmer then upgraded to a dillon press mounted
basic hand tool set for prepping then upgraded to a rcbs prep station
vibratory tumbler then upgraded to bigdawg we tumbler

Ive upgraded everything I have over the past 15 years except the press and I like having the originals for small tasks every now and then

P8VGb68.gif


So let me get this straight... youre advocating, for a beginner, that he starts reloadingfor something for which he has no interest in reloading for and then advocating that he spends as much on the press alone as everything else combined? Really? Seems logical.
 
Basically....Yes, Im sure he has some sort of pistol that he sometimes shoots the cost to add a pistol round to loading is very little, a cheap set of dies and a conversion kit if necessary. Its how I started and it made jumping into rifles much easier. And my point on spend on the press was that if you plan to go progressive one day Its much easier to buy it up front then to upgrade it later, And even if you dont go progressive It makes sense(at least to me) to get the press you want in the beginning because a spare press is not something everybody needs. Outside of the press the other items can be had for very little and even if you went for the best in each category the starter stuff is helpful to have.
 
Spife, I need your address to send you a beer! I will look at Natchez and order as soon as possible! But when I came up with my plan last night, the price of the master kit and CM were $550 combined. And that was with the 1500 combo not the dump only. Their sale must have ended last night. I want to get this stuff ordered before missing out on another opportunity!

As far as starting out with an expensive Dillon 550 and then loading pistol, I have a glock 19 I RARELY shoot. Carry it everywhere but only run maybe a mag a month through it. That is not at all the route I want to go.
 
I have everything in my cart as you have specified Spife. The only thing I have different it a large rifle Primer Pocket uniforming tool instead of the media separator. I can use a cheap strainer like most for that and don’t have a tumbler yet anyway. Plus, having access to a lathe at our shop, I could probably make a piece to thread it into and tun it similar RPMs as the Trim-Mate and still not have to do it by hand! Need to add a chamfer and deburring tool and that should be all I need! Should get me into a pretty completer Reloading setup way cheaper than I expected to!
 
The only reason I suggested the separator was to get you up to the levels for the rebates at the different stores. Id hate for you to be 10 bucks short at the end and loose out on the rebate. Sounds like you have it all under control though if you are certain the prep center is in your future or the lathe works for you.
 
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The trim mate is for sure in my future so I can do all my brass processing on one bench at my house and not have to go to the farm. But it’s a short drive so if I can make the large work that would be pretty slick for now. If I can’t I am back to borrowing another thing from my buddy, thank God for good friends! Haha! I am gonna try and get this all ordered tonight!
 
Okay, I just placed my final order of all the hornady measurment tools I fell I needed. Most of what I ordered is on backorder, so who knows when I will end up getting all my stuff. That’s not a big deal tho as I still have a good stock of factory Hornady I want to shoot up first anyway. Anyway, I figured I’d come here and give a run down of everything that I ordered and how the rebates worked out.

-RCBS Rock Chucker Supreme(not the kit)
-RCBS Chargemaster 1500
-RCBS Hand Primer
-RCBS Primer Pocket Brush Kit
-RCBS Flash Hole Deburring tool and 6.5 Guide
-RCBS Trim Pro 2(just the trimmer not the kit)
-RCBS 3 way trimming attachment
-RCBS Carbide Large Rifle Primer Pocket Uniformer
-RCBS Powder Funnel
-RCBS Loading Block
-RCBS #3 Shell Holder

All this on 2 orders qualified me for 2 $100 rebates. After that I put a separate order into midway for all the Hornady stuff since everything is on sale right now.

-Custom Grade 6.5 Creedmoor 2 Die Set
-6.5 ELD/ELD-X Seating Stem
-Headspace Gauge Kit
-6.5 Bullet Comparator Insert
-O.A.L. Gauge
-6.5 Creedmoor Modified Case

I think all this together has created a pretty complete reloading set up. I am sure some of the stuff I ordered I will end up not using, but that all part of the experience I guess. I’m hoping to have everything by the end of the year. I will be doing research on components until then.

My Girlfriends Dad is an avid pistol reloader that buys various Reloading components from buddies at our gun club when they are cleaning out their own stash. Well after telling him I finally ordered everything for a Precision Reloading Setup (I have been talking about it for 2 years), he takes me down to his reloading room and hand me a 3/4 full brick of FGMM Large Rifle Primers! He then asks what type of powder I will probably use, and being the H4350 is hard to find I said probably Reloader 15. I’ll be damned if he didn’t reach in and pull out a 3/4 full 5 pounder of the stuff! He gave them to me and said “here, I’ll never use em.” So obviously I am going to use those to start out with. Basically all I need to do is pick out a few bullets to try and start there!

I will post a picture of my set up one I get it all arranged how I like. I would like to thank everyone for the advice, and a HUGE thanks to Spife as I am sure he spent a decent amount of time on the internet trying to find ME the best deal. Man, I DO LOVE THE HIDE.
 
and a HUGE thanks to Spife as I am sure he spent a decent amount of time on the internet trying to find ME the best deal. Man, I DO LOVE THE HIDE.

Its a pleasure, it gives me something to do at work besides my job ;)

I got great help (a big push off the cliff) from the community here myself. I had been fiddling around with generic hunting rounds for years before but never really got into it heavy until I stumbled across the hide and I havent looked back! Well, my bank account has, but finances be damned...

Edit: RL15 will be too fast with the heavier 6.5 bullets so stick to 120s or below if youre going to use it.

Choosing a powder is a balancing act and means evaluating the amount of time the bullet spends in the bore (weight of the bullet, speed of the powder, caliber of the bore, length of the barrel are all factors to consider). Lighter bullets are more easily moved so they will exit the bore quicker, heavier bullets are more resistant to movement so they will stay in the bore longer (newtons laws of motion in play). Because the lighter bullets will leave the bore more quickly a faster powder is preferred, because the heavy bullets will be in the bore longer a slower powder will be appropriate. If you try and push a light bullet with a slow powder the bullet will leave the bore before the powder can fully work so you will be running rich and wasting the powders energy, you wont get the velocity you want out of it as the powder is still burning after the bullet has already left the bore. If you try and push a heavy bullet with a fast powder you will use up all of the energy before the bullet leaves the barrel and running lean and that can increase pressure issues as the powder will burn up before the bullet has moved far enough to make up the volume necessary.

 
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Honestly if I had it to do all over again, I wouldn't have gotten a kit. I would have started with a Forster Co-ax and bought the other items separately.
 
Oh, shoot. Shellholders if your dies don’t come with one. I have a coax and don’t have them so it always slips my mind
 
Don’t worry, I bought a shell holder! I believe the Hornady Dies come with one, I figured 2 wouldn’t hurt tho! And I thought that maybe the RCBS shell holder would fit nicer to the RCBS press and Hand Primer. If I need more I have several gun shops and even an Academy Sports in Evansville that carries a whole slew of RCBS, Hornady, and Frankfort Arsenal stuff!
 
I looked into the Co-Ax and saw a lot of people recommending them on another thread. The RCBS with the rebates just made it too good to pass up. On top of that, people have been cranking quality ammunition out of a green press longer than I’ve been alive. Can’t argue with that kind of track record!