Cleaned my lenses, now I think they’re ruined?

[Little_Fish]

Yesterday I shot a match in the rain. It was a wet and muddy soupy mess. When I stripped the gun afterwards I went to clean my lenses which were also a mess. The ocular lens came out fine, but my objective lens is ruined I think? It looks like I wore off some of the coating on the lens.

The scope is a Bushnell XRS3. I used the same SOP I use to clean all my optics: A lens bulb blower, a lens brush, and followed it with a spray solution from Vortex with a microfiber rag also made by Vortex.

Picture below shows what I’m left with now. I don’t want to play with it anymore and plan to call Bushnell tomorrow and see what they say.

 

[J.J.chago]

Well Shit. Makes me second guess my cleaners I use for optics and glasses

 

[JM4590]

Yea, maybe you fd up, but reach out to Bushnell and explain what happened. I’m betting they will help a brother out.

 

[nikonNUT]

Man, that looks nasty!

 

[pmclaine]

Remove the gross stuff very carefully than Distilled water and qtips in a inside to out circular path works great.

 

[Baron23]

Wow, that's really ugly and I'm sort of thinking there is no way to fuck a lens up that bad without either ham fisting it (and I'm not saying you did) or a defective coating.

 

[BCX]

Wow, thats bad! When my scopes get real bad, i will rinse them in the sink w running water to get the heavy debris off. I have cleaned a few in the dishwasher, just use spot free rinse.

 

[Sogan]

For future use

 

[Gohring65]

Tagging in. I’m interested in seeing what Bushnell will say.

 

[Little_Fish]

Wow, that's really ugly and I'm sort of thinking there is no way to fuck a lens up that bad without either ham fisting it (and I'm not saying you did) or a defective coating.

Yeah I can’t see how anything I did that would cause this. I might not always be the smartest but I’ve cleaned plenty of optics before and never once had anything like this happen.

 

[Little_Fish]

Tagging in. I’m interested in seeing what Bushnell will say.

Calling in the morning. They claim to have a no questions asked warranty just like Vortex. I don’t know anyone whose gone through Bushnell before for warranty work but I guess I’ll find out soon enough.

 

[Kiba]

Many years ago before their advertised lifetime no questions warranty I messed up the lenses on some Bushnell fusion rangefinder binos with one of those POS lens pens when a piece of grit got between the lens pen applicator and the lens and I ground swirls into the lenses.

I called Bushnell and told them what I did and sent them in for repair. About 2 weeks later the brown truck dropped off a brand new set of binos and all I was out was the shipping charges getting the damaged set to them.

They should take care of you.

 

[MK20]

This is why when in doubt, rinse it out.

A garden hose ain't just for drinking out of.

A 200 PSI compressor is really nice, too.

 

[wooferocau]

Yesterday I shot a match in the rain. It was a wet and muddy soupy mess. When I stripped the gun afterwards I went to clean my lenses which were also a mess. The ocular lens came out fine, but my objective lens is ruined I think? It looks like I wore off some of the coating on the lens.

The scope is a Bushnell XRS3. I used the same SOP I use to clean all my optics: A lens bulb blower, a lens brush, and followed it with a spray solution from Vortex with a microfiber rag also made by Vortex.

Picture below shows what I’m left with now. I don’t want to play with it anymore and plan to call Bushnell tomorrow and see what they say.

View attachment 8146284

Use a microfibre cloth and wet a small section with some acetone....carefully wipe over the area in a circular motion.

I have seen that effect before on a lens coating..normal lens cleaning solutions seem to make it worse.

 

[wooferocau]

This is a ZCO after the person tried to clean it with liquid lens cleaner..

The other pics are after I cleaned it with acetone

 

[WB300]

Tagging in.... Wow! ^^^^^^^

 

[BCX]

Always irrigate the heavy solids w a hose or in the sink w spray nozzle. If you’re in the field a bottle of alcohol will work. I always rinse a few times before cleaning.

 

[Corfius]

Wow this is pretty much how I clean my lenses. Let us know if Bushnell has an explanation.

 

[M4orturnate]

The zeiss wipes are a great product. Got a box at a match and now use them exclusively unless theres mud or something on the lense

 

[Little_Fish]

Called Bushnell. Got a live person who picked up on the first ring, who was great to deal with.

They sent me a prepaid label to send the scope back and they’re going to take care of me under warranty. Said their turnaround time is within a week, I was worried since I have a big match the third weekend in July. I love this scope and knowing that the warranty is on par with the other big optics names reaffirms that decision.

The representative I spoke to on the phone said I am not the first person to ruin their scope by using that specific cleaning solution made by Vortex. So for anyone reading this with any Bushnell optic, DO NOT use any cleaning solution. She told me to only use a blower bulb, followed by a Spudz micofiber with fog from your breath. No brushes or cleaning solution of any kind.

 

[Sogan]

I figured acetone, of all things, would be the first thing to strip off a lens coating but those photos are impressive

 

[OREGUN]

Y’all putting chemicals on your glass?

How about a puffer brush to blow the dust away, some DI water to flush the splashed on chunks and a microfiber cloth to blot the water off?

Or you know, some industrial solvent and a scotch-brite. Your choice.

 

[Milf Dots]

I figured acetone, of all things, would be the first thing to strip off a lens coating but those photos are impressive

I wonder if the acetone actually removed the damaged coating, giving the glass a clean surface...?




-

 

[JoshPutman]

Bushnell is good to work with. I had a pair of binos for about 10 years, and my son got ahold of them and dropped them. One of the lenses inside moved, and they were basically useless.

Called and explained exactly what happened, and they had me send them in. About a week later I got a brand new pair that was the equivalent of the old ones I sent.

 

[Kiba]

I wonder if the acetone actually removed the damaged coating, giving the glass a clean surface...?

It’s possible the acetone used in the secondary cleaning attempt could have stripped the what appears to be already damaged coatings from that ZCO lens, making it look new again… hard to say. It might simply be contaminants left on the lens, but those initial pictures look like possibly damaged coatings though and not just smeared dirt and oil on the lens surface... but it's hard to tell without seeing it in person under good lighting.

When it comes to cleaning you always want to touch the lenses as infrequently as possible and when you do so you always want to use the gentlest cleaning method and solutions/chemicals. A couple expensive camera lenses and filters I have say to use only DI water or reagent grade alcohol to clean them, the manufacturer specifically says do not use acetone as it could damage the coatings or the gaskets around the lenses. I think they're more concerned about gasket damage though as other lens manufacturers have said that reagent grade acetone is their preferred cleaning solvent and will not damage the coatings. In my experience acetone will damage certain types of plastics and rubber seals that alcohol won't damage, so I tend to prefer reagent grade alcohol to acetone for that reason.

Usually a squeeze bulb blower followed by a brush can get the light dust off. Don’t use canned air as sometimes you can get a very cold blast out if you tip the can too much, and that rapid thermal shock can easily crack lenses. I don’t like using a shop air compressor either unless you have a very, very good moisture/oil/particulate filter on it, you don’t want to be blasting contaminants into the lens at high speed.

If the blower and brush initial cleaning doesn’t work or there’s heavy grit, after using the squeeze blower to get any loose particulates off the lens then I’ll flush it with DI or distilled water from a clean squeeze bottle to rinse all the heavy particulates off, then follow that by drying with a clean microfiber cloth made for lenses. 3M makes good ones that are relatively inexpensive.

If you have oily deposits on the lens that aren’t water soluble, DI/distilled water will probably only smear it around-- only then do I escalate the cleaning process to using reagent grade isopropyl alcohol or even easier, the Zeiss pre packaged lens wipes (turn & rebunch them often to keep using a fresh surface of the wipe on the lens.) Also, don’t apply solvent or use a solvent moistened wipe like the Zeiss wipes on a hot lens that’s been in the sun, as the rapid cooling caused by the solvent flashing off also runs a risk of thermally shocking the lens and cracking it.

And if all else fails… hopefully your scope company offers a lifetime no questions asked warranty.

 

[carbonbased]

Acetone and rubbing alcohol are safe on optics according to an optical repairman on birdforum.

Check this link out and read ALL the posts therein by a fellow by the handle WJC aka Bill Cook. A guy from Zeiss approved what WJC wrote in a book about binos, specifically regarding cleaning lenses. Swaro likes him (there’s a quote in one his posts).

What should I clean binocular lenses with?

Having just invested in a new pair of Swarovski EL's I wanted to understand what the right cleaning solutions are for modern day coated lenses? Historically I had used a lens cleaning solution containg Alcohol Isopropyl but wonder if this is OK for current lens coatings or damages them. Any...

www.birdforum.net

The below link is not meant to replace WJC’s advice in the above link, but it shows one method. Read the WJC posts first.



Lenses and their coatings are tougher than you think, but yeah, don’t pour sand on them and rub (I know no one did this, just making a joke).

I assume he is not a sham like T H E I S.

 

[carbonbased]

Here are some more links about Bill Cook (WJC on birdforum):

Interview: https://www.birdforum.net/threads/interviews-with-optics-repairers-bill-cook.392276/

His book (one of five):


LinkedIn:

https://www.linkedin.com/in/william-j-cook-chief-opticalman-usn-ret-asja-7066522b

I think he knows what he is talking about.

 

[slowworm]

If you have gunk on the lens, then cleaning fluids can dissolve it. If there is not enough fluid to actually flush the contaminant, then it can get dried on again as a really thin layer, which can give this kind of effect. From the color I think this might well be dissolved pollen.

If it were mine, I would clean it again with zeiss wipes / pure alcohol a couple of times and I bet it would lift off. That said - your optics, your choice. This advice is worth exactly what you paid for it.

 

[hlee]

Doesn’t help in this case, but a “sunshade” can help prevent the optic from getting dirty enough that it requires the owner to damage the lenses during cleaning. It can also keep rain off your objective. Between that and a scope cap, lenses can bet kept clean in pretty adverse conditions.

 

[carbonbased]

I should note that certain optical companies might say not to use alcohol and similar on their lenses. This is probably because certain chemicals can strip paint and other finishes, plus melt plastic.

Note that Zeiss & Swarovski cleaning products contain (gasp!) rubbing/isopropyl alcohol.

Link to post with MSDS:

What should I clean binocular lenses with?

First blow the lens off with a blower so there is no grit or sand on the lens and then use a lens pen to remove any fingerprints or smudges. If you can't get them clean with the lens pen use a pre-moistened lens wipe which are safe for lenses that come pre-packaged. After using the wipes you may...

www.birdforum.net

 

[Kiba]

If you have gunk on the lens, then cleaning fluids can dissolve it. If there is not enough fluid to actually flush the contaminant, then it can get dried on again as a really thin layer, which can give this kind of effect. From the color I think this might well be dissolved pollen.

If it were mine, I would clean it again with zeiss wipes / pure alcohol a couple of times and I bet it would lift off. That said - your optics, your choice. This advice is worth exactly what you paid for it.

Good point, if you don't use enough cleaning fluid it can evaporate before all the contaminants are removed and leave odd looking patterns in the contaminants left behind on the lenses.

 

[Milf Dots]

I suppose it's always advisable to follow the scope manufacturer's formal recommendations on cleaning products and process- if for nothing more than to not risk voiding warranty coverage.

 

[Convex]

I'll suggest to you to do what I do if you have the acc. threads on the front and back of your scope to fit filters.

Being a photographer I've stuck to the habit of protecting all of my optics w/protective filters, and of course after my purchase of my March 4.5-28x52 it has filters front/back. Any problems like what you're addressing means I'm either cleaning off my filter/replacing it and the front of the optic stays pristine.

I've had folks disagree about this, I personally have had no problems w/my filters re artifacts and U won't if U purchase quality filters mc coated on both sides.

Doing it this way, the front of UR optics stays pristine if U decide to sell it, even after exposing it to the elements and I've also saved an expensive repair w/one of my more expensive optics because the filter I had in front took the full force of one of my "fender benders".

Rain/splashing around in mud/accidents, I've encounted it all that and either cleaned or replaced a filter to get most of money back on an optic that I sold where I could state that the front of the optic is pristine because it's been protected by a filter.

The best way 2 clean the front of an optic is 2 never touch it.

Good luck

 

[JBoomhauer]

Also. Throw away that microfiber. Treat them as a single use item. They will pick up contaminates pretty quickly and scratch the lens.

 

[Convex]

One caution.... Filters w/mc coatings on both sides come w/aluminum rings to save U money, the same glass comes w/a brass ring which costs more, but won't end up frozen where U can't get the filter off which aluminum on aluminum is prone to do if U tighten a filter or a sunshade too tight.

If UR "fumble fingers", or don't have a "light touch", get the brass.

All of the exotic/expensive glass and exquisite engineering that go into these optics don't work well unless the coating up front is intact.

 

[Threadcutter308]

And…….if you double stack filters and are having a bitch of a time getting them apart/unscrewed from each other;

Sensei 62-77mm Filter Wrench (Set of 2) 847628027985 | eBay

Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for Sensei 62-77mm Filter Wrench (Set of 2) at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!

www.ebay.com

They’re kind of cheap/flimsy, but they work.

 

[Baron23]

I think they're more concerned about gasket damage though as other lens manufacturers have said that reagent grade acetone is their preferred cleaning solvent and will not damage the coatings.

I agree....I have seen other professional photog types use acetone on high end lenses and I too presume that any concern is regarding its ability to damage gaskets and finishes.

Acetone and rubbing alcohol are safe on optics according to an optical repairman on birdforum.

Check this link out and read ALL the posts therein by a fellow by the handle WJC aka Bill Cook. A guy from Zeiss approved what WJC wrote in a book about binos, specifically regarding cleaning lenses. Swaro likes him (there’s a quote in one his posts).

What should I clean binocular lenses with?

Having just invested in a new pair of Swarovski EL's I wanted to understand what the right cleaning solutions are for modern day coated lenses? Historically I had used a lens cleaning solution containg Alcohol Isopropyl but wonder if this is OK for current lens coatings or damages them. Any...

www.birdforum.net

The below link is not meant to replace WJC’s advice in the above link, but it shows one method. Read the WJC posts first.



Lenses and their coatings are tougher than you think, but yeah, don’t pour sand on them and rub (I know no one did this, just making a joke).

I assume he is not a sham like T H E I S.

There is another vid from this same fella posted earlier in this thread where he used just distilled water. I'm guessing the ISO is because he put body oil on the lens and would not need to do this step this for water spots from rain and similar non-oily dirt.

But I do sort of wonder why 70% ISO when 99% can be bought at your local drug store?

 

[NoLegs24]

I’ll leave this here. Used it on Schmidt’s, Henny’s and TT’s. No issues. Does the job very well.

Schmidt Bender Lens Cleaning Kit

Schmidt Bender Lens Cleaning Kit For sale! For best price call 570-368-3920.

www.eurooptic.com

 

[carbonbased]

I agree....I have seen other professional photog types use acetone on high end lenses and I too presume that any concern is regarding its ability to damage gaskets and finishes.


There is another vid from this same fella posted earlier in this thread where he used just distilled water. I'm guessing the ISO is because he put body oil on the lens and would not need to do this step this for water spots from rain and similar non-oily dirt.

But I do sort of wonder why 70% ISO when 99% can be bought at your local drug store?

Around my area the highest concentration I’ve found is 91% for isopropyl alcohol. I don’t think it matters much, but if I was a betting man, 91% would clean better than 70% and not hurt anything. That’s what I use.

Camera lenses are not sealed up nearly as well as riflescopes (even the “weather sealed” ones). So, as the video shows one shouldn’t get the solution on the outer lens edges lest it leaks into the interior. Camera lenses aren’t filled with argon or similar, it’s just air and the air gets pumped in and out as the lens focuses (even if it’s not a “pumper” zoom”.

I don’t worry about that with riflescopes. I’m not flooding the lens and letting the solution just sit there overnight, however. I use clean cotton cloth when I can.

I’ve used rubbing/isopropyl alcohol, acetone, and Windex to no ill effect. Bill Cook/WJC just knows what he is talking about, but it’s hard for normal people to quit obsessing over expensive lenses and just clean them and get on with it.

I know it was hard for me!

P.S. make sure, especially, that you read the attachments that WJC/Bill Cook posted to that Birdforum thread. They contain the heart of his cleaning advice.

 

[carbonbased]

Interesting…when attempting to find the MSDS of the S&B cleaning kit, I ran across this page:

Riflescopes – Accessories – Cleaning Kit

www.schmidtundbender.de

I bring this up in the interest of science, transparency, and all that is good.

If you don’t trust links from people, here is a cut/paste:

Attention: Pure alcohol (ethanol, isopropanol) can also be used for cleaning the coated lenses. However, acetone, thinner, petrol and other solvents must not be used. These can react with the lens coating and will result in permanent damage.​

I’ve attempted to open a conversation will Bill Cook to pick his brain about S&B’s prohibition and will let you guys know what happens.

Perhaps there are very recent coatings that have issues that Bill (mostly retired) is unawares? Or is this lawyerly fine print to scare someone from floating their scope for a month in a bath of petrol?

Nonetheless, I thought you all should know.

Note that S&B is fine with you using ethanol & isopropyl alcohol. That is the stuff, paired with a distilled water wash like discussed in the vid I posted, that I use 98% of the time. For those interested, I’ve used non-ammonia Windex or acetone for the other 1.5%, with the ammonia Windex for the remainder 0.5% for certain stubborn cases.

I’ve never had to resort to Bill’s other measures.

 

[Baron23]

Around my area the highest concentration I’ve found is 91% for isopropyl alcohol. I don’t think it matters much, but if I was a betting man, 91% would clean better than 70% and not hurt anything. That’s what I use.

Camera lenses are not sealed up nearly as well as riflescopes (even the “weather sealed” ones). So, as the video shows one shouldn’t get the solution on the outer lens edges lest it leaks into the interior. Camera lenses aren’t filled with argon or similar, it’s just air and the air gets pumped in and out as the lens focuses (even if it’s not a “pumper” zoom”.

I don’t worry about that with riflescopes. I’m not flooding the lens and letting the solution just sit there overnight, however. I use clean cotton cloth when I can.

I’ve used rubbing/isopropyl alcohol, acetone, and Windex to no ill effect. Bill Cook/WJC just knows what he is talking about, but it’s hard for normal people to quit obsessing over expensive lenses and just clean them and get on with it.

I know it was hard for me!

P.S. make sure, especially, that you read the attachments that WJC/Bill Cook posted to that Birdforum thread. They contain the heart of his cleaning advice.

Ah, I may have been mistaken...yeah, 91% ISO in drug stores. The acetone I have is 100%. Hey, I'm old and easily confused! haha

I'll check out those attachments.

 

[Baron23]

Interesting…when attempting to find the MSDS of the S&B cleaning kit, I ran across this page:

Riflescopes – Accessories – Cleaning Kit

www.schmidtundbender.de

I bring this up in the interest of science, transparency, and all that is good.

If you don’t trust links from people, here is a cut/paste:

Attention: Pure alcohol (ethanol, isopropanol) can also be used for cleaning the coated lenses. However, acetone, thinner, petrol and other solvents must not be used. These can react with the lens coating and will result in permanent damage.​

I’ve attempted to open a conversation will Bill Cook to pick his brain about S&B’s prohibition and will let you guys know what happens.

Perhaps there are very recent coatings that have issues that Bill (mostly retired) is unawares? Or is this lawyerly fine print to scare someone from floating their scope for a month in a bath of petrol?

Nonetheless, I thought you all should know.

Note that S&B is fine with you using ethanol & isopropyl alcohol. That is the stuff, paired with a distilled water wash like discussed in the vid I posted, that I use 98% of the time. For those interested, I’ve used non-ammonia Windex or acetone for the other 1.5%, with the ammonia Windex for the remainder 0.5% for certain stubborn cases.

I’ve never had to resort to Bill’s other measures.

I just tried to access those attachments but you need to log into that site to even view them...and, no...I don't need an account on a bird watching forum. I'm bird brained enough as it is.

Can you post them here, perhaps?

 

[wooferocau]

Acetone will not damage a lens coating ...just use sparingly..

 

[carbonbased]

Here you go, @Baron23. All of Bill Cook’s attachments from the Birdforum link.

The following were from Bill in that thread but don’t address the exact issue we are discussing. Interesting, however. For the sharp-eyed, you’ll notice that I am one short. The reason is Bill uploaded a duplicate.

 

[carbonbased]

I have also just had a discussion with Jerry at S&B USA tech dept. They use medical-grade acetone there for cleaning lenses all of the time coupled with with surgical cotton swabs. Sometimes they use some fancy polishing compound.

I should pick up some medical-grade acetone. Didn’t know that was a thing.

With no prompting from me, he thought the S&B warning I posted above was to stop people from, you guessed it, soaking the lenses in acetone (or stronger) for a prolonged time period. Jerry said there is a rubber o-ring gasket behind the glass, and he said it can’t be good to soak that thing with a strong solvent for a long time either.

Hence a distilled water wash, I suppose.

But obviously if the S&B repair dept uses acetone all of the time then certainly you and I can use it.

The caveat with all of these solutions is to use them sparingly. Use similar amounts of liquid and polishing methods like in the YT vid I posted (Jerry approved).

Don’t pour solvents stronger than water (water is a solvent, apparently) on the lens and leave it sit while you grab a Bud. Then, after the game don’t take the oily end of your shirttail and rub the eff out of the lens like you used to rub one out while staring the Charlie’s Angles poster that hung above your bed, you filthy bastard.

We didn’t discuss petrol lol. He wasn’t sure about ammonia-based old school Windex. We didn’t discuss ammonia-free Windex, but since that is some wussy stuff, I personally am not worried about that.

As an alternative cleaning method, Jerry did suggest using a touch of Dawn dishwashing soap on some cotton swabs after rinsing ALL debris off. This was his favorite cleaning method and is how I clean my eyeglasses (minus the swabs lol. Not that anal.)

But no matter how you clean, Jerry reiterated that you must remove all of the dust and debris FIRST. That’s how you scratch the lens, by rubbing dirt on the glass/coating like sandpaper.

Interestingly, Jerry also advised against blowing on the glass, as they’ve seen bits of spit actually etch the glass if left on there. Not sure if this would include ye olde field-expedient “hot breath” fogging of the lens prior to wiping…hmmmm.

Who knew? I’m learning something new all of the time.

 

[Little_Fish]

Lots of good discussion here. I'm glad I made this post. I do think that using acetone would give the appearance of fixing the problem, but only because it removes the coating entirely. The customer service rep. I spoke to at Bushnell was very clear that anything stronger than water would damage the coating. That's not to say all optics can't handle it, but this scope in particular cannot. She said specifically she has spoken to customers with my scope who used the same Vortex cleaning solution who did similar damage like I did. I felt very comfortable using a cleaner made by another scope manufacture, but I was wrong. The manual for my scope does specify to avoid anything with IPA (alcohol), whereas the literature for the other high end optics I own (Maven and Vortex) do not contain a prohibition on alcohol and recommend "any optics cleaner". So there is something unique about the coating on the XRS3 that needs to be handled carefully/differently. I'm going to see if a 62mm UV lens filter will fit the thread on the front. I use filters on my 15x bins successfully, the only drawback being that in the rain moisture gets between the lens and the filter causing additional fog.

 

[carbonbased]

Lots of good discussion here. I'm glad I made this post. I do think that using acetone would give the appearance of fixing the problem, but only because it removes the coating entirely. The customer service rep. I spoke to at Bushnell was very clear that anything stronger than water would damage the coating. That's not to say all optics can't handle it, but this scope in particular cannot. She said specifically she has spoken to customers with my scope who used the same Vortex cleaning solution who did similar damage like I did. I felt very comfortable using a cleaner made by another scope manufacture, but I was wrong. The manual for my scope does specify to avoid anything with IPA (alcohol), whereas the literature for the other high end optics I own (Maven and Vortex) do not contain a prohibition on alcohol and recommend "any optics cleaner". So there is something unique about the coating on the XRS3 that needs to be handled carefully/differently. I'm going to see if a 62mm UV lens filter will fit the thread on the front. I use filters on my 15x bins successfully, the only drawback being that in the rain moisture gets between the lens and the filter causing additional fog.

Hmmm, if water is the strongest thing the poor coatings could take, my mind drifts to this Bill Cook post in which he says (in part):

These are some facts:​

​

1) Given a few centuries, even purified water will etch glass.​

​

2) Alcohol has been ONE tool of professionals for over 150 years.​

​

3) IF the AR coatings are put on at the correct thickness AND temperature there is NO PROBLEM.​

​

4) Even the simplest magnesium fluoride coatings are HARDER THAN the glass beneath: 575 on the Knoop Hardness Scale Vs. 520 for Bk7 (Crown glass). Multi-coatings can make it harder.​

​

5) The first layer of coatings is only 6-millionths of an inch thick and, if not put on at the correct temperature, will be too soft to stay on when exposed to LIGHT ABRASION. This causes the inexperienced to assume the coatings came off their cheap binoculars because of alcohol, a 1/32 mixture of ammonia, or acetone, which has also been used by professionals for years.​

​

I don’t have an opinion, but there you have it.

 

[wooferocau]

Lots of good discussion here. I'm glad I made this post. I do think that using acetone would give the appearance of fixing the problem, but only because it removes the coating entirely. The customer service rep. I spoke to at Bushnell was very clear that anything stronger than water would damage the coating. That's not to say all optics can't handle it, but this scope in particular cannot. She said specifically she has spoken to customers with my scope who used the same Vortex cleaning solution who did similar damage like I did. I felt very comfortable using a cleaner made by another scope manufacture, but I was wrong. The manual for my scope does specify to avoid anything with IPA (alcohol), whereas the literature for the other high end optics I own (Maven and Vortex) do not contain a prohibition on alcohol and recommend "any optics cleaner". So there is something unique about the coating on the XRS3 that needs to be handled carefully/differently. I'm going to see if a 62mm UV lens filter will fit the thread on the front. I use filters on my 15x bins successfully, the only drawback being that in the rain moisture gets between the lens and the filter causing additional fog.

Acetone WILL NOT remove a coating if its decent!!

MANY optical engineers i know use it on some very very expensive lens from the projection industry. A good friend of mine is an Optical Engineer..

When i go the ZCO ( as above) the individual had rried al sorts of cleaners and solutions.....he though the scope was toast. I cleaned it with the Acetone and i came up like new , he was stunned ( and relieved) .... ZCO ( and many others) have good lens coatings..

 

[Corfius]

Lots of good discussion here. I'm glad I made this post. I do think that using acetone would give the appearance of fixing the problem, but only because it removes the coating entirely. The customer service rep. I spoke to at Bushnell was very clear that anything stronger than water would damage the coating. That's not to say all optics can't handle it, but this scope in particular cannot. She said specifically she has spoken to customers with my scope who used the same Vortex cleaning solution who did similar damage like I did. I felt very comfortable using a cleaner made by another scope manufacture, but I was wrong. The manual for my scope does specify to avoid anything with IPA (alcohol), whereas the literature for the other high end optics I own (Maven and Vortex) do not contain a prohibition on alcohol and recommend "any optics cleaner". So there is something unique about the coating on the XRS3 that needs to be handled carefully/differently. I'm going to see if a 62mm UV lens filter will fit the thread on the front. I use filters on my 15x bins successfully, the only drawback being that in the rain moisture gets between the lens and the filter causing additional fog.

Interesting Indeed.

I checked with my Bushnell DMR II manual and it does say to use lens cleaning fluid (pretty sure they are all alcohol based).

I rarely clean my lenses but when I do this is what I do:

1- blowing air
2- lenspen brush
3- Zeiss lens wipe for tough spots (probably eyelashes grease, water spots) if necessary.

Lens wipes contain alcohol. So far I didn't notice damage.

 

[OREGUN]

Well this thread really has everything.

Personal opinions of enthusiastic DIYers.
Endless cross references to ”expert” opinions -not related to any manufacturer, let alone the one in question.
The manufacturer’s opinion.
Rebuttal to the manufacturer‘s opinion.
Reference to a hardness scale.
Some guy’s buddy who’s an optical engineer.
A listing of THE FACTS!
A picture of some guy’s toes.
A birdwatcher.

Now if we could just get someone to blame a commie or make a thinly veiled comment about how it’s the problem you get when you let THOSE people…….out of the inner city, we’d have SH perfection.

I’m going back to the tried and true MEK and 500 grit sandpaper before I loose my mind.