Cleaning Die Sets

[Josh1978]

So I have an idiot type of question about cleaning reloading die sets.
Do I need to clean my dies each time before I begin reloading a given caliber?
If so, what kind of procedure are you using when you clean them?
I am not certain on what kind of brush is ok to use. I don’t want to mess anything up.
Thanks in advance for taking the time to reply.

 

[granite wagon]

I disassemble dies when received new & completely clean them with 91% alcohol then lube them LIGHTLY with kroil on exterior and VERY LIGHTLY on interior with imperial wax. After that I will just periodically reach up inside with a rigid wood cotton swab and wipe out excess sizing wax.
If I get the ( feeling ) things are building up inside die I take it apart and repeat the alcohol & lube routine.

Hope this helps!!

 

[RegionRat]

Do I need to clean my dies each time before I begin reloading a given caliber?

No, not really. However, if you are getting indications of wrinkles and bumps from excess lubricant, then consider a wipe down and learn to balance the amount to be enough to prevent getting the case stuck through lubricant starvation on the low end, and getting lube dents on the other.

It really isn't as difficult as it sounds, but folks do manage to screw this up so I mention it.

If so, what kind of procedure are you using when you clean them?
I am not certain on what kind of brush is ok to use. I don’t want to mess anything up.
Thanks in advance for taking the time to reply.

The same tools used to clean the chamber, can work for your dies.
You won't find as much effort required, so be gentle and think of it more like a light wipe down than a scrub.

Brand new dies may have a sticky preservative that comes off like mentioned above. Use any decent organic solvent up to and including gun cleaners or brake cleaner, then come back and prime the die with a very light coat of sizing lube to avoid getting stuck on the first try.

 

[rustyinbend]

I use THESE with a light coat of CLP to clean and lubricate about every couple hundred cases or so. Works great.

 

[Josh1978]

I use THESE with a light coat of CLP to clean and lubricate about every couple hundred cases or so. Works great.

Those are pretty slick. I think I will put those on the next order that the wife makes.

 

[rustyinbend]

Those are pretty slick. I think I will put those on the next order that the wife makes.

Yeah ... thay're great for a lot of things. Also good for cleaning chambers on you rifle, as the plastic handle bends enough to clean through the ejection port. I keep a batch of them with CLP on them for cleaning dies, chambers, etc. ... and a batch of dry ones that I use for a final swab-out. The other tip for you is THIS STUFF ... perfect for cleaning the swabs and bore brushes and (blah blah blah). They last forever if you keep 'em clean after using them. Spray with the degreaser, squish around a bit, and rinse with hot water.

 

[Tempest 455]

Ultrasonic works awesome for cleaning dies (and other things). You can get them pretty inexpensive from Amazon.

 

[99mpower]

Absolutely dump them in the ultrasonic cleaner after a major run of ammo (10k+) and then give them a coat of WD40 and let them dry to protect them.

I run a dehumidifier in my reloading room to help keep moisture out, but if your stuff is in a garage or somewhere else, really got be aware of surface rust/issues

 

[supercorndogs]

I pull the decapping pin and wipe mine out with a paper towel.

 

[Josh1978]

Absolutely dump them in the ultrasonic cleaner after a major run of ammo (10k+) and then give them a coat of WD40 and let them dry to protect them.

I run a dehumidifier in my reloading room to help keep moisture out, but if your stuff is in a garage or somewhere else, really got be aware of surface rust/issues

I have a reloading room in our basement. I try to keep an eye on temp and humidity down there. I also have a dehumidifier that I will kick on if it gets too high.
I did something really stupid. I was reloading some 5.56 with Varget and stopped for the day with plans to return the next morning. If I knew I was going to continue with what I was working on I would generally just leave the powder in the hopper. Well the next morning I needed to get some stuff done before I went back downstairs. Long story short, I ruptured a disc in my neck and lost some mobility in my left arm. This was in early November. Well I had surgery in April and now I am back to normal. Anywho, all this time the Varget has been in the hopper. I guess I will just have to throw it out unless you guys say otherwise. Moral of the story; I empty all the powder every day when I am finished.

 

[SERE8541]

I use THESE with a light coat of CLP to clean and lubricate about every couple hundred cases or so. Works great.

Nevermind, I didn't read all the way down.

 

[RegionRat]

Anywho, all this time the Varget has been in the hopper. I guess I will just have to throw it out unless you guys say otherwise.

The powder hopper is far more open than your powder container.

I would consider a low key test for this stuff that isn't critical rather than assume it is toast or assume it is the same as regular. If the environment was reasonable and the powder looks and smells okay, then it is likely okay with only a low risk that there is a difference between the exposed stuff versus what is in the can.

Water content of the stuff in the hopper has been following the room over time, but if you plotted the powder versus the room, it will always lag the room changes just because the powder doesn't change rapidly and the hopper slows the changes too. The water content can make a noticeable difference in the speed but some folks are not that sensitive to speed changes in the first place.

 

[Josh1978]

The powder hopper is far more open than your powder container.

I would consider a low key test for this stuff that isn't critical rather than assume it is toast or assume it is the same as regular. If the environment was reasonable and the powder looks and smells okay, then it is likely okay with only a low risk that there is a difference between the exposed stuff versus what is in the can.

Water content of the stuff in the hopper has been following the room over time, but if you plotted the powder versus the room, it will always lag the room changes just because the powder doesn't change rapidly and the hopper slows the changes too. The water content can make a noticeable difference in the speed but some folks are not that sensitive to speed changes in the first place.

This is great advice. Thank you for the input!