- Thread starter M4sniperz
- Start date
New or used. If new just flood the BCG with CLP, pull a dry snake through the bore and shoot the shit out of it. Repeat every 500. If used field strip and blow everything out with carb cleaner, liberally apply CLP and repeat every 500 rounds. These guns are not precision machines. Run it wet. If your hands are not dirty after a range session you are doing something wrong!! Don't waste money on boutique lube. Breakfree from Walmart is all you need.
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If new, at least run a couple patches through the bore. Be amazed at what kind of crud from machining stays around in the barrel. As the above show, run it a little wet.
I prefer a synthetic lubricant to CLP. Handles the heat so much better. There are tons of good ones. Too much is way better than too little.
I got 2 new AR's about the same time and I use MILITEC and this kit linked below as it has everything to properly clean them both as 1 is a DI and the other a piston ! To me keeping the throat clean during first 500 rounds to me is important I also use a little grease in places but no being a comp shootr I have no need running a wet bolt!
Wheeler Engineering Delta Series AR-15 Armorer's Professional Kit
Wheeler Engineering Delta Series AR-15 Armorer's Professional Kit
Regardless of what lube you run it's going to turn to dust in short order. I will use the frog lube paste in the summer. It is a CLP, sticks to the BCG, and will last a bit longer than your typical CLP or Mobil 1. Do not use Rem Oil. I use FL, Mobil 1, and CLP on AR's
Run a wet patch followed by a few dry patches through the bore just to make sure nothing got left in there.
For oil, I use Mobil 1 or Breakfree LP and never had any problems. I dip a small pain brush into the container and just paint oil on the inside and outside of the BCG and upper receiver. No need to dip or flood anything, just make sure the oil is there.
Here are some helpful diagrams for the new AR owner.
For oil, I use Mobil 1 or Breakfree LP and never had any problems. I dip a small pain brush into the container and just paint oil on the inside and outside of the BCG and upper receiver. No need to dip or flood anything, just make sure the oil is there.
Here are some helpful diagrams for the new AR owner.
It works. You'll probably get a spray of oil on your glasses the first few rounds.
I tear the BCG down, wipe the carbon out of the carrier and off the bolt with WD40 and paper towels, apply liberal amounts of Mobil1 to the bolt/gas rings and re-install. Liberal oil or grease on the cam pin. Use a toothpick or something to apply a couple drops Mobil1 to the 4 rails on the outside of the carrier and go.
When using Mobil1, WD40 will remove the carbon easily and any hard deposits on the tail of the bolt don't really matter.
Invest in some fire clean. You won't regret it.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
You guys actually clean your ARs? Mine only gets cleaned when I get really bored.
4-6 drops of SLIP 2000 EWL on the gas rings every 500 rounds or so (or when I get bored), and the occasional 2-3 drops around the cam pin. Rack the bolt for about 5-10 seconds to let everything work in, then go back to shooting it. Replace the gas rings when needed, and keep going. I'll occasionally run a bore snake or the OTIS kit through the bore just to knock loose some grime.
I have had several ARs that have run for hundreds or thousands of rounds without cleaning, and only a few drops here and there of SLIP 2000 to keep them lubed, and I have never had issues. Currently running an LMT 10.5" upper with BCM BCG and an AAC SDN-6 can that way, and still not having any issues except for the upper being overgassed with the can.
4-6 drops of SLIP 2000 EWL on the gas rings every 500 rounds or so (or when I get bored), and the occasional 2-3 drops around the cam pin. Rack the bolt for about 5-10 seconds to let everything work in, then go back to shooting it. Replace the gas rings when needed, and keep going. I'll occasionally run a bore snake or the OTIS kit through the bore just to knock loose some grime.
I have had several ARs that have run for hundreds or thousands of rounds without cleaning, and only a few drops here and there of SLIP 2000 to keep them lubed, and I have never had issues. Currently running an LMT 10.5" upper with BCM BCG and an AAC SDN-6 can that way, and still not having any issues except for the upper being overgassed with the can.
I think any new rifle should be cleaned to remove leftover machining trash and factory floor grit from the areas where parts move against each other. How much of what lube is your choice, but use some.
I purchased a Tipton rod for my AR (16" and 24" barrels), a guide designed to fit where the AR bolt goes, and a Tipton Rod Guide setup for my bolt rifles. I changed to carbon fiber rods after noticing that every single one of my metal rods had developed kinks. I now have over $100 invested in three Tipton Carbon rods in different calibers and lengths. I don't care what they cost; I want them, period.
Carbon buildup on the bolt can become troublesome. I think this tool is worth having.
Greg
I purchased a Tipton rod for my AR (16" and 24" barrels), a guide designed to fit where the AR bolt goes, and a Tipton Rod Guide setup for my bolt rifles. I changed to carbon fiber rods after noticing that every single one of my metal rods had developed kinks. I now have over $100 invested in three Tipton Carbon rods in different calibers and lengths. I don't care what they cost; I want them, period.
Carbon buildup on the bolt can become troublesome. I think this tool is worth having.
Greg
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