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Suppressors Cleaning QD mounts

rjacobs

Sergeant
Full Member
Minuteman
  • Mar 10, 2013
    2,214
    1,930
    Ive got an AAC 762SDN-6 and about 5 mounts. 2 of my mounts are FILTHY to the point the can is almost impossible to remove if I dont do it while its smoking hot(which as you can imagine is "fun"). TONS of carbon build up. My worst offender is my 9" 300BLK followed by my 10.5" 5.56. I have scrubbed on these things with a brass brush to basically no avail. The inside of the mount portion of the can looks fairly clean, but the mounts are atrocious.

    Whats the best stuff to clean these with?

    Brake cleaner? Hoppes? Shooters Choice? Something else? Basically something to attack the carbon.

    While I dont really care about the finish, I also dont want to ruin it.
     
    Does Kroil eat carbon buildup? Or will it loosen it enough to scrub it off with a brass brush? Dont know if I want to go to a steel brush, although I have one.
     
    I use Surefire cans and have the same issue with the QD mounts. It's been so bad at times I've had to use a rubber mallet to gently tap the can off after releasing the ratchet. A scotch-bright wheel on my dremel does a nice job of tidying the brake attachment up.
     
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    YHM QD.. same issues...


    for hoppes elite/MP Pro7 eats carbon.. spray.. let sit for 20min, scrub with a brush
    ultrasonic dip works well

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    I have an M4-2000 and I think I found the ultimate cure for consistent tight lock up on the 51T mounts. Using a dremel and a wire brush on low works really well after an 8 hr soak in acetone. But if you've got to deal with a shit ton of carbon build up I'd consider a light sand blast. I recently had a couple mounts that hadn't been cleaned in a LONG time and were nearly unusable. I blasted them with 100 grit aluminum oxide left over from a Cerakote job and literally every shred of visible carbon came off. The can mounted as if new after a little polishing. Give it a whirl. Worked fantastic for me...
     
    Im worried dipping and soaking might loosen the rockset or is that stuff pretty chemical resistant? Its hard for me to believe it resists chemicals very well when water breaks it down.
     
    I tried kroil, slip 2000, acetone and every chemical I had in the garage, even boiling in antifreeze. Only thing that worked was my drill & brass brush. It didn't take to long and left no damage. After they were clean I went over them with Frog Lube to help preserve. I thought frog lube would maintain but after the next range session they were carbon caked again.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
     
    I have an AAC 762SDN-6 that's mated to a T51 myself. After the initial outing of 71 rounds yesterday, when I removed the can, it was apparent to me the break would need a little TLC in order to remove the carbon deposits.
    Reading the owners manual that came with the can, AAC recommends cleaning the break with copper solvent in order to remove deposits (there's a diagram of where to apply the solvent on the break in the manual).
    So I painted some copper solvent on the break and let it sit while I cleaned the rest of the gun. After wiping the break off after soaking, I used a dental blade to remove the big gobs still left on the outside of the break. Worked just fine, and not to big a PIA.
    I'm thinking this will just be another step added to routine maintenance .
     
    I used the bronze carbon scraper on the leatherman MUT. Recently picked up the MUT. Used frog-lube only, and after a little patience and scratching, all carbon is gone and adapter looks like new.
     
    Slip2000 Carbon Killer rocks!

    I'm with sigfan27!

    I have a older SWR SpecWar 2 5.56mm can that's mounted on a 14.5" training upper and I shoot the snot out of it. When I'm done, I let the flash suppressor/QD mount sit in some Carbon Killer while I LIGHTLY clean the inside of the suppressor with a small piece of Scotchbrite soaked in some Carbon Killer. Then I remove the flash suppressor from the solvent, scrub it with the aforementioned piece of Scotchbrite, wipe everything down with a paper towel and I'm GTG. I don't care about the finish in the flash suppressor nor is this a white glove inspection cleaning - it's a functional cleaning/maintenance/inspection. It's just going to be shot again soon anyway and I'd rather spend the time training than detailed cleaning the thing everytime.
     
    I am sure most will recoil in horror but when they get really bad, I gently use the sharp edge of a knife or (eek) a screw driver - both on the mount and even inside the can (I get different build up patterns inside the can between FH and brakes)…..been doing it for years with no adverse effects. It is fast and easy, just be smart about it.
     
    i am going to try some ultimate lube on mine. it makes my bcg very easy to clean. i do not know if it will make my yhm qd easy to wipe down, but it is worth a try. seems to me like scraping it out with screw driver or something before it gets critical would be a good idea as well.
     
    Gasket remover or oven cleaner might be worth a try. I've used gasket remover on engine rebuilds and it will bubble up baked on gaskets and carbon.
     
    Just wanted to update. Finally had time to mess with this. Ive just been shooting it and taking it off while hot and, while stubborn, it wasnt impossible like it was when cold.

    Soaked a rag in Shooters Choice bore cleaner as that was the best thing I had(doesnt say it removes carbon, but copper and lead, but I know it removes a lot of carbon from barrels) and then wrapped the rag around the mount and rubber banded it on for maybe 30 minutes. Hit it with a small steel brush. Basically nothing.

    Chucked up a small steel(maybe stainless) wire wheel in my dremel and went to work. 5 minutes later, clean mount. Can goes on and off like butter. Screw using solvents or anything, im just going to go straight to the dremel wire wheel from now on.