Suppressors cleaning suppressors?

[thumper49802]

what is the best method for cleaning your cans. Ive noticed after about 500 or so rounds the SurefireFA762SS gets kinda funky where it attaches on the muzzle device. After solvents and brushes i got the brake cleaned, and swabbed the inside of the locking area on the can per surefires directions. However, a more detailed cleaning i would think is needed. Just looking for ideas.

 

[Ring]

most sprays are useless. all the "carbon cutters" dont work for shit in a can... only good way is a harbor freight US tank to dip it in...

 

[Tempest 455]

I tumble baffles in corn cob after cleaning in brake parts solvent and brush out the can w/ a 12 ga brush.

 

[oldfatguy]

Ultra sonic, if your can will fit.

OFG

 

[coyote sniper]

heard a coating of fireclean works great for not allowing the carbon to stick. I haven't gotten around to buying a bottle to try but i spray my baffles with balistol and they are WAY eaiser to clean still takes a while in the ultra sonic but the crud isn't stuck nearly as hard.

 

[3DHUSKER]

I spray the QD part with brake clean and scrub with tooth brush. Comes off easy if you do it every time you shoot. I have just got ahold of some fire clean and going to give it a try. The inside of my centerfire cans have never been cleaned and probably never will as they purge themselves with every round that goes through them.

 

[df662]

most sprays are useless. all the "carbon cutters" dont work for shit in a can... only good way is a harbor freight US tank to dip it in...

^^^^

Exactly what I did, bought cleaning tank as well. Although I think I did read somewhere that you shouldnt do it with alum. suppressors as the solution eats away at it. Not sure if that is true or not..... I never cleaned my 9mm can in it....

 

[3DHUSKER]

Be carefull with sonic cleaners as they may damage the finish of your can depending on what the coating is.
The solution that eats alum is the "dip".

 

[ronas]

I was told by manufacturer never to clean my suppressor. It's and SRT Arms and it can be unscrewed from either end with a proprietary wrench. Doug said if I notice a decrease in accuracy I should send it to him and they will take it apart and see what is going on.

I did weigh suppressor when I first got it and as any increase in weight I will presume is due to carbon build up; so far 261 round count.

On another note I use Citranox in ultrasonic cleaner to clean brass and it works fantastic. I would think it would work very well on a suppressor, although it would probably etch or in some way damage the finish.

I would think the very best way to clean a suppressor once it's apart is by soda blasting it.

 

[Tactical Tink]

I've tried all kinds of crap. The dip works, but make sure that there is not aluminum before you make an expensive mistake. Also, watch out for weird alloy cans as the dip will pit them as well. I've had luck with lightly coating my brakes with anti seize but when you forget it's on there and you wipe your clothes you'll regret using that as well. Use high temp not the copper crap. Only cans that I clean now are my 22 cans after 500 rounds, and my take apart 9mm cans for my full auto sub guns. Sonic cleaning kills your coating and also if left to long can damage or pit fine weld lines or mesh. I've seen sonic cleaners really goof up some stuff when it is left in the bath for long periods. I've had luck with industrial carbon cleaner in a parts washer set up to fill the can and drain from the muzzle end, but that was someone else's equipment. If your really into it you can pick up a used dental sonic wand and use it for cleaning baffles. Crud pops right off, but also expensive.

 

[THE MGD]

heard a coating of fireclean works great for not allowing the carbon to stick.

Can anyone confirm that, I heard similar things about Frog Lube. I confirmed with a silerncerco 22sparrow shooting both pleated and unpleated that it didn't help at all. I would be interested if the Fire Clean worked where the Frog lube failed.

As far as the main question, I use the dip and it works way better than anything else I've tried. As stated above; either check that you wont have any affected materials or contact the manufacture and make sure its okay to use. Keep in mind your making a toxic chemical doing this. (lead acetate?) so gloves and a sealable container are a must. My city offers free hazmat dumping with proof of residency. make sure you know where to take it and dispose of it properly. It's worth the hassle for me.

 

[GunMax]

I just use break cleaner on mine and it seems to do the trick! and then spray some gun oil on it when done

 

[biffj]

I don't clean any centerfire rifle can. Just shoot them. If you're getting buildup on the brake that prevents the can from properly mating up with the can then clean the brake. Putting brushes, patches or other objects into a centerfire rifle can is not a good idea. The mating surfaces shouldn't have any buildup on them if the can is properly installed so there shouldn't be any real need for cleaning other than an owner wanting something to look "pretty". The buildup that you will get doesn't hurt the efficiency of the can or brake as any area in the blast zone will be cleaned off by the blast and heat of the shot. I've got a .338 Lapua can with over 1000rds through it and it has never been cleaned. It never will be as there is no reason that it would help and a lot of reasons it could hurt. Even stainless can corrode so using cleaners inside a sealed can can be bad news. It migrates into areas that cannot be cleaned out and over time can create weakened areas. For a can that can be disassembled you can take it apart and clean individual parts if you want but other than appearance its a waste of time. Shoot, don't clean.

Frank

 

[fister13f]

Fire clean works, get some and try it

 

[RollingThunder51]

QD mounts and entry is different than cleaning the guts.

Already got great advise from corn cob to ultrasonic (NEVER touch the liquid with the unit on).

Let the can's stack get filthy as it will get much quieter, the disruption of unspent particulate is an integral part of the suppression for cans.
What is in the tub for ultrasonics can make a huge difference as well.
Note that some welds can be cracked by ultrasonic, check with your vendor.