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Fieldcraft Clearing your line of fire?

LSa

Susi1!
Minuteman
Jul 21, 2007
46
47
Finland
www.takilta.fi
How you clear your line of fire when you are preparing for action? For example, you are building ambush site, traffic control point, defensive positions etc. and you can make preparations without hiding.

How you mark obscuring branches sighted from hide? Guiding friend with a radio or pointing branch with laser - or something else?

If a tree branch is on higher and tree is too big to cut down, do you cut branch off with Throw-Saw -type tool or arborist saw with telescope pole?

What tools do you use for small trees and brushes? I have been using Fiskars brush axe (link) and small pocket saw. https://www.fiskars.com/en-us/garde...s-mauls-and-machetes/brush-axe-19-378600-1003

Couple days ago I bought Varusteleka’s Skrama. It is almost as good as Fiskars, but I can do more with it. https://www.varusteleka.com/en/product/terava-skrama-240-carbon-steel/30189

How you camo cutting marks? By cutting so, that fresh mark is not visible to the enemy’s point of view? With spray paint?
 
We want many narrow lines of fire. Even side down straight ahead flying tiny rally car makes too wide lane, and enemy can spot you. Maybe we can launch rally drivers with a catapult? They will smash twigs and trees away? Head first, they got helmet.
 
Get close enough to use a crew serve 7.62 and don’t worry about it. It’ll shoot through that shit just fine.
 
In military operations, we normally didn't. We just used the best available terrain at the moment, perhaps clearing and adjusting our cover and concealment site. Only if we established a "dug in" defensive position did we go to the extent of significantly clearing lines of fire. In that case, depending on the scale of the operation, we didn't care too much about fresh cut marks being visible. In fact, in a deliberate defense, you'll actually put out range fans and distance markers to help coordinate the effects of the troops and fires you have available. You do the best you can with the time allowed to improve and fortify your position, find secondary and alternate positions, create a deconflicted echeloning of fires plan, etc...

If you're talking about a small scale squad(-) operation, then you're probably not digging in and instead just using the best terrain possible to accomplish the specific mission.

Perhaps you can be more specific about the type of mission you're trying to accomplish and general situation:

Mission
Enemy
Time
Troops (your available combat power)
Terrain
Civil considerations
 
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Nothing special, we got 1340 km (over 830 miles) long border with Russia.

If war someday starts, Finland will fight without air supremacy. Plus when forests cover more than 75 % of the land area of Finland, it is wise to train to operate inside forests, and also shoot +100 m (or yards) from inside forest. It is easier to disappear after shot, if bullets, indirect fire and explosives are the only things that tells that Finns are present.

Without air supremacy it is crucial to fight from good terrain. So you choose location, and make it work for you.
 
Nothing special, we got 1340 km (over 830 miles) long border with Russia.

If war someday starts, Finland will fight without air supremacy. Plus when forests cover more than 75 % of the land area of Finland, it is wise to train to operate inside forests, and also shoot +100 m (or yards) from inside forest. It is easier to disappear after shot, if bullets, indirect fire and explosives are the only things that tells that Finns are present.

Without air supremacy it is crucial to fight from good terrain. So you choose location, and make it work for you.
I drove north up that border starting from the road to St Petersburg until I got to a big rail terminal. The clearcut was wide open. The mine signs were still up. A few guard towers were still up. If they do what they did before, I hope Finland does what she did before. I like Finland a lot.
 
Without air supremacy it is crucial to fight from good terrain. So you choose location, and make it work for you.

I think that will change soon. I read recently that Finland was given approval to purchase a large number of aircraft and munitions from the USA.

64 F-35A's along with 66 additional spare engines.
50 F/A-18E's (Super Hornets)
8 F/A-18F's (2-seat Super Hornets)
14 E/A-18G's (Growlers)
 
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You do realize you can just move over 2 inches or back 20 yards so you're still concealed but shit isn't in your way anymore, right?

Cover vs concealment. With ghillie you can hide, but when bullets and fragments are flying, you need cover too. So good place is important.

And spending hours in same spot - prone is easier than standing.

Plus I want to see. If target is moving, you need wide field of view.
 
Fighters - final decicion will be made in 2021.
Simo Häyhä (White Death) - humble farmer. He was very small guy, with good nerves and will to fight.
Lauri Törni (Larry Thorne) - Soldier.
 
If they're seeing where you limbed trees for a clearer field of fire you are totally fucked, because those advancing troops who can see that shit are Russian cyborgs.
cybernetic_soldier_from_soviet_russia_by_vazirgaizullin_d8cpu3j-pre.jpg
 
This entire conversation is the crux of a basic stalk exercise. The size of your loophole is a judgment call that is trying to balance your ability to observe vs your ability to hide, regardless of cover. Some are successful, some aren't.

No. :D

Sometimes you just got to fight there where you got better position than your enemy. I think it is wise to select good place and make it work for you.
 
I might suggest you check the OP's post history and length of time between registering and when they suddenly started posting.

Then perhaps consider not replying?
 
Is odd, isn't it? Thirteen years without a post. Do you think scammers access a long abandoned account and build a reasonable to believe profile? I've wondered about this the handful of times over the years that it seemed a long time member suddenly ripped someone off.
 
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Been sniping. :D

Couple of months ago I opened Frank Galli’s Precicion rifle marksmanship -book. It looked so promising that I thought that there must be more good stuff in the Sniper’s Hide. So I made introduction about myself and started to talk. So blame Frank.
 
Yep. Usually just moving your position a little will clear your trajectory. The question is how do you correlate your trajectory to your LOS. Essentially, how do you clear internal and external loopholes? There's an easy method for both.

If its soft terrain you just shoot through it like normal.

If its a hard feature, it will usually also give you concealment if close, or you do the loophole calc on your Trimble after ranging where the loophole is.
 
How you clear your line of fire when you are preparing for action? For example, you are building ambush site, traffic control point, defensive positions etc. and you can make preparations without hiding.

How you mark obscuring branches sighted from hide? Guiding friend with a radio or pointing branch with laser - or something else?

If a tree branch is on higher and tree is too big to cut down, do you cut branch off with Throw-Saw -type tool or arborist saw with telescope pole?

What tools do you use for small trees and brushes? I have been using Fiskars brush axe (link) and small pocket saw. https://www.fiskars.com/en-us/garde...s-mauls-and-machetes/brush-axe-19-378600-1003

Couple days ago I bought Varusteleka’s Skrama. It is almost as good as Fiskars, but I can do more with it. https://www.varusteleka.com/en/product/terava-skrama-240-carbon-steel/30189

How you camo cutting marks? By cutting so, that fresh mark is not visible to the enemy’s point of view? With spray paint?

It's an ambush right? Which side are we on?
 
I think that will change soon. I read recently that Finland was given approval to purchase a large number of aircraft and munitions from the USA.

64 F-35A's along with 66 additional spare engines.
50 F/A-18E's (Super Hornets)
8 F/A-18F's (2-seat Super Hornets)
14 E/A-18G's (Growlers)

Shit and I cant even get the $200/case 175 FGMM.......
 
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You do realize you can just move over 2 inches or back 20 yards so you're still concealed but shit isn't in your way anymore, right?

Meanwhile we have people now wanting to pack chainsaws and Echo power attachment heads.


Echo is for poors.=, Home Depot grade.

Get a German manufactured Stihl.
 
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If they're seeing where you limbed trees for a clearer field of fire you are totally fucked, because those advancing troops who can see that shit are Russian cyborgs.
cybernetic_soldier_from_soviet_russia_by_vazirgaizullin_d8cpu3j-pre.jpg


The Finns will take his Kalash and upgrade it to a super Kalash....as they have already done with the RK62 and did with the M39.
 
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No. :D

Sometimes you just got to fight there where you got better position than your enemy. I think it is wise to select good place and make it work for you.

In the past you guys were helped by the fact the Soviets only tactic was "into the teeth" and the skill of the conscripts was low.

Strong defensive positions was not only a requirement due the man power disparity but Soviet ineptitude made it good sense.

Either way hard combat on both sides.
 
I might suggest you check the OP's post history and length of time between registering and when they suddenly started posting.

Then perhaps consider not replying?


A man of few words........Stoic Scandinavian.......You know the type in Vermont, Minnesota even my local AO, Fitchburg MA, has a big population of "Square Heads" that have these fucked up spelled last names that make you want to rearrange vowels and consonants because somebody is obviously dyslexic.

Wihtelin
 
M118 LR 19 - 20 boxes for $500 to my door on the PX. Not sure how you missed that one. It was there for a while. Tried it today...shoots better than FGMM in my AI

Split it with a bud

Was that the one from back in the spring?

Think I bought 1000 rounds or so back than.

Plenty still in the bunker to include the good amount you muled for me.

Always time to jump on it though when I see it at about $200 shipped.

I only use factory stuff for classes, when its only me and having fun - reloads.

That big M118LR offering earlier this year was fantastic. I tried to get another 1000 right after my first showed up but the whole 30,000 round lot was gone. Lake City was selling drums of the stuff. Had me thinking they were supplying for the Boog.
 
I don’t know how it works in Finland, but in the good ‘ol USA you ain’t doing crap without a building permit and approved plans for your construction project.
 
Was that the one from back in the spring?

Think I bought 1000 rounds or so back than.

Plenty still in the bunker to include the good amount you muled for me.

Always time to jump on it though when I see it at about $200 shipped.

I only use factory stuff for classes, when its only me and having fun - reloads.

That big M118LR offering earlier this year was fantastic. I tried to get another 1000 right after my first showed up but the whole 30,000 round lot was gone. Lake City was selling drums of the stuff. Had me thinking they were supplying for the Boog.
No

I got it delivered yesterday.

He only had a case of 400 and didn't want to break it up. I had already bought 1,500 rounds of SK Rifle Match Rimfire and 100 rounds of 338 LM for my AXMC. Didn't want to spend another $500 this month so my bud bought half
 
No

I got it delivered yesterday.

He only had a case of 400 and didn't want to break it up. I had already bought 1,500 rounds of SK Rifle Match Rimfire and 100 rounds of 338 LM for my AXMC. Didn't want to spend another $500 this month so my bud bought half


Found the link.

Back to "clearing" lane of fire.....

OP ask one of your Swede neighbors to get you one of these mil Gransfors

1605093148814.png


I should have one soon for choppy tasks.
 
Man, I want a army surplus Gransfor! Great axe.
 
Quick, not so scientific test. From left:
- Hukari, good for cutting small trees, too heavy for brush work.
- Fiskars Brush Axe. The best. Cuts small trees easily, lightweight, very good for cutting bushes. Best ergonomics.
- Skrama. Very good, cuts small trees, middleweight, very good for cutting bushes. Two bevels, so you can make ”accurate” work with it, like featherstick. Good ergonomics.
- Cold Steel Kukri (better quality, model?) Too heavy and cumbersome. Needs accurate hits and tight grip.
- Cold Steel (model?) Good for bushes. Not very efficient with small trees.
- Modified older Fiskars. Good for bushes. Not very efficient with small trees.
- Cold Steel Kukri (low quality, model?) Clumsy, Needs accurate hits and tight grip.
- S&W ”tactical axe”. Very poor performance with bushes. As every axe, needs accurate hits. Fun to throw (away).
- Cold Steel modified tanto machete. Clumsy, too wide handle, too long blade. Poor performance.

So, if tool works without need for accuracy, you can use it safely when you are tired, or in hurry, and in low light, or when your hands are cold. And if it got good ergonomics, it is safe to use and you can also work longer with it without fatique.

Bullshittools etc.JPG
 
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