Competition seater dies

lennyo3034

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Apr 18, 2010
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I have been using standard Redding dies for all calibers that I load for. I had assumed the competition seater dies just added a micrometer for easier seating depth adjustment. While helpful, I've generally been able to adjust seating depth with the standard does relatively easily.

However I now see that the competition seater also supports the case and bullet for better runout control. For those that have used both, how effective is it in reducing runout, or perceived accuracy?
 
There are a number of published test where it is demonstrated that a Redding competition seaters will reduce runout over the standard dies. Does it make a difference? I think so, but you should run a test yourself to find out if it makes a difference for you and how/what you shoot.
 
For one of my rifles I tried to cheap out when loading for it and I just went with Redding standard dies. Once I decided to spend some money on some nice dies for that particular caliber my group shrink in half. It was a lesson learned when not to cheap out on certain things and dies are one of those.
 
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I recently purchased the Redding 223 Competition Bullet Seating die as a means of achieving more consistent Cartridge to Base to Ogive / Jump to Lands measurements for the three bullets I use on a regular basis - Sierra Match King, Berger VLD Target and Hornady V-Max.

While my standard Lee Precision bullet seating die was giving very good run-out results, I was having variances of 2-3 thousandths of an inch in my CBTO. However; with a bit of adjustment and a sorting of bullets afterwards, I am able to prepare uniform CBTO cartridges in batches of five or more. I shoot in sets of 5 shots.

I was hoping the more expensive Redding die would remove some of this CBTO variance and reduce the post-seating adjustment effort. To date, this has not been the case – the results are only marginally better.

At present, there appears to be just enough variation in the ogive measurement of some half of the match bullets to offset any increased accuracy of the fine Redding product.

Is the return on investment of the more expensive Redding die over the almost as good Lee die worthwhile? Not sure yet.

It may be the case that increased accuracy of the Redding die may be offset by the variations in the bullet ogive measurements – the net result being marginal improved after spending good money.

I sort my bullets by weight. It appears I may have further cross-sort by ogive measurement – something I thought the Redding die might eliminate.

Is anyone else having similar experiences? Other suggestions?
 
Variances in the output is more to do with your brass prep and components.

The micrometer makes it easier to change the setting quickly and accurately, that doesn’t mean it is a cure all for everything or anything.
 
Thank you for the comment and advice.

Brass preparation, at least for myself, is a quiet, relaxing process and is carefully monitored - the bullets are all match grade and sorted by 1/10th of a grain weights. I try to obtain and use bullets from the same lot as well to further reduce variables - so, I was looking any other elements to reduce the minor sorting after seating these bullets - hence, the Redding die. As an aside, I shoot for 5-shot patterns in sets of 50 batches - the statistical confidence limits tend to plateau with this sample size - current average MOA is 0.65 and I am trying to push down to 0.60 MOA as a consistent value for each 5-shot group as part of a set of 50 targets.

When my initial trials with the Redding seating die were still exhibiting similar measurements to my Lee seating die, I started to take random ogive measurements of the bullets and found much of the variation in the bullets. I am surmizing the Redding die is still good but the variation is in the bullet ogive's themselves.

And yes, the micrometer scale is more quantitative than the more simple Lee bullet seating die.
 
I have both 1 Redding micrometer seating dies and 2 Forester micrometer seating dies.
The Forester has a larger graduation dial, so the numbers are easier to read and dial accurately. that’s why I bought the second Forester seater when I bought ne .223 Remington dies earlier this year.
Using a two step seating process I can keep all the rounds within a +/- .001” base to ogive dimension despite bullet variance.
 
Forster does it better. They also invented it, so you should buy theirs.

Kinda like Whidden basically poaching Hoover’s pointing dies.
 
I will work on the two step process to see if this works for me. Geez, was hoping for more from the Redding. The lock ring and set screw on the Redding really requires a re-think and re-design as well - at least mine has issues. Thanks to both of you
 
I will work on the two step process to see if this works for me. Geez, was hoping for more from the Redding. The lock ring and set screw on the Redding really requires a re-think and re-design as well - at least mine has issues. Thanks to both of you
Agreed. Buy a pack of Hornady lock rings and pitch the Redding ring in the recycle bin.
 
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100%.

All these companies have a thing or two like that, that nobody else does as well.

Lee’s collet crimp die, Hornady’s lock rings and collet puller, Forster’s mic seating die, Wilson’s trimmer, Inline Fab mounts...
 
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Yes, I am using one of my Lee 243 lock rings in the short-term and will likely migrate to the Hornady rings later this spring. There were a few YouTube videos which highly touted the Redding die which impressed me; however, none mentioned the issue with the lock rings.

In my polite inquiry to Redding regarding this lock ring issue; I was met with stony silence - so much for "Congratulations! You have just purchased the finest precision seating die available." I suppose this is like claiming to hit a grand slam but miss tagging at second base.

Just a bit peeved to have paid good money for a advertised premium product with a known flaw - a minor flaw which any "premium" engineering company would most likely want to correct. Perhaps their accountants manage their machinists now.

Anyway, live and learn - and moving on.
 
On my Reddings I just pushed the set screws all the way through and knocked the little lead ball off, sure you have a screw straight into the treads now but it takes less force to not move than it does to deform the die thread so just don’t monkey tighten it and you’ll be fine.

(I have put all my redding rings on giraud case holders that I set and forget by now)