Considering a Tikka T3x CTR in .223

[Sieg]

Considering a Tikka T3x CTR in .223 for 100-200 local informal monthly benchrest matches and varmint hunting 80-450 yds on small Sage Rats and occasionally Rock Chucks.

Disclaimer: I haven't had a center fire bolt gun since my Ruger M77 Varmint in 22-250 I had in the early 80's..... which I still regret selling. I hand loaded for gun that with great success.

I have a YHM Resonator can in jail and plan to use it at all times. Can is 7.9" x 1.57" and weighs 16 ozs, not including QD mount.

Questions I have:

- Barrel length options are 20" and 24" w/ 1:8 twist, which length will potentially produce the best accuracy?
- Chrome Moly vs Stainless related to potential barrel accuracy and life?

Rifle weight and overall length really isn't a concern for my applications, the 24" barrel version is .5lbs heavier which is fine.

T3x owners: Is the synthetic stock with vertical grip and beavertail additions decent? How about the adjustable cheek rise version?

What accuracy gains could a KRG Bravo or Manners stock potentially deliver over the OEM stock? Or at this point should I just get a Tac 1X and be done with it?

Thanks

 

[346ci]

I didn't think the CTR in .223 was available here. I have a T3x Varmint .223 that was cut down to 17.5" and threaded 5/8-24. It drives tacks with factory ammo, impressive.

If I were to do it over, would keep the barrel at 24" and get it threaded.

The Varmint stock is decent but don't put too much value in it, you could go with a KRG Bravo for $300-350.

 

[Who?Me?]

no offense, but there seems to be lots of Tikka info on other threads too- might answer your ??s

I like your story about the Ruger M77----
eg, I just met a elderly priest at the range yesterday who survived cancer - he proudly showed me his 30-06 M77 and said,
"Ive had this over 30 years!"

 

[wade2big]

Accuracy probably wont improve when you change stocks. It will look better though. ?

 

[Sieg]

I didn't think the CTR in .223 was available here. I have a T3x Varmint .223 that was cut down to 17.5" and threaded 5/8-24. It drives tacks with factory ammo, impressive.

If I were to do it over, would keep the barrel at 24" and get it threaded.

The Varmint stock is decent but don't put too much value in it, you could go with a KRG Bravo for $300-350.

The CTR and Tac 1x are available in .223 now.

I'm favoring the 24" unless barrel rigidity/harmonics with the can on it may create an accuracy issue.

I've had an Olympic Arms Ultramatch AR-15 w/ 24" 1:9 twist since 1992 and it's been a stellar varmint rifle, but cleaning a suppressed semi-auto rifle is not my idea of fun.

I have a Vudoo V-22 in a KRG Bravo and it's probably my favorite gun to shoot at this time. But I question having $1,500 plus into the T3x vs biting the bullet for the Tac 1x. I honestly don't care about style/status as long as the rifle performs, they are basically tools to me.

If I wasn't retired and had a decent income I'd probably buy a custom hot rod..... but that was then.

 

[Sieg]

no offense, but there seems to be lots of Tikka info on other threads too- might answer your ??s

I like your story about the Ruger M77----
eg, I just met a elderly priest at the range yesterday who survived cancer - he proudly showed me his 30-06 M77 and said,
"Ive had this over 30 years!"

I spent over 3 hours using searches and reading, if you can find the answers please do.

The early 80's M77 Varmints were very well built guns, it's sad to see where Ruger's craftsmanship is now.

 

[littlepod]

If you really like the Tac 1X stock, then that's a pretty good buy. I didn't like it, so I went T3X + Bravo ~ $1300.

 

[Sieg]

Accuracy probably wont improve when you change stocks. It will look better though. ?

? Absolute Fact!

The ergonomic options on the synthetic stock with a vert grip, beavertail fore end, and adjustable riser make the basic rifle offering tempting as a functional tool. But having a solid foundation for the action does eliminate error margins...... Thus I can't blame my shitty setup and pulls on the equipment. ?

 

[Sieg]

If you really like the Tac 1X stock, then that's a pretty good buy. I didn't like it, so I went T3X + Bravo ~ $1300.

I'm on that fence.

Are you another satisfied Tikka owner?

Of all the offering on the market the Tikka's value/performance appear to be pretty solid.

 

[littlepod]

I'm on that fence.

Are you another satisfied Tikka owner?

Of all the offering on the market the Tikka's value/performance appear to be pretty solid.

Yes I have a Tikka T3X CTR in .308, a Tikka T1X in 22LR, and I've been considering a T3X in .223 but didn't know they had a CTR, so I was looking around for the threaded varmint. Now that I know there's a .223 CTR that's very tempting. I have a sub-moa AR-15, but it's so filthy to shoot with my suppressor, that I haven't shot suppressed in years. The suppressor has been sitting in the safe... so I've always wanted a .223 bolt just to use the suppressor. I also ended up placing an order for my 308 suppressor.

If I had to start all over again... I'd get a Tikka T3X CTR in .223, and I'd get a Tikka T3X CTR in 6.5cm. I don't see any real reason for .308... train with the .223 and long range with the 6.5cm.

And the T1X for NRL22

T3X CTR

 

[013]

@littlepod, sweet looking rifles!

 

[Stooxie]

I don't see any 223 CTR out there. Maybe in Canada but certainly nothing in the US. Am I missing something?

-Stooxie

 

[Sieg]

Yes I have a Tikka T3X CTR in .308, a Tikka T1X in 22LR, and I've been considering a T3X in .223 but didn't know they had a CTR, so I was looking around for the threaded varmint. Now that I know there's a .223 CTR that's very tempting. I have a sub-moa AR-15, but it's so filthy to shoot with my suppressor, that I haven't shot suppressed in years. The suppressor has been sitting in the safe... so I've always wanted a .223 bolt just to use the suppressor. I also ended up placing an order for my 308 suppressor.

If I had to start all over again... I'd get a Tikka T3X CTR in .223, and I'd get a Tikka T3X CTR in 6.5cm. I don't see any real reason for .308... train with the .223 and long range with the 6.5cm.

And the T1X for NRL22

View attachment 7117905

T3X CTR

View attachment 7117906

Get busy wearing out those barrels so you can upgrade to point cut hand lapped threaded units.

The rifle I thoroughly enjoy shooting and can afford to, Vudoo V-22 .22lr. Excuse the benchrest hardware, but it's necessary to be competitive. 100-200yd rimfire is an exercise in patience and frustration. ?

Current configuration.

Another rifle that brings real pleasure and squirrels fear..... Ruger "precision" rimfire converted to .17 Mach2. It's a very effective extermination tool for the orchard.

 

[Sieg]

I don't see any 223 CTR out there. Maybe in Canada but certainly nothing in the US. Am I missing something?

-Stooxie

According to my research this Tikka USA link shows it's available:
https://choose.tikka.fi/usa/code/TF1T11FL105MTB

 

[346ci]

The CTR in .223 isn't available at any of my 4 distributors, only the Lite and Varmint.

Try calling Euro Optic, they might can pull some strings.

 

[Sieg]

The CTR in .223 isn't available at any of my 4 distributors, only the Lite and Varmint.

Try calling Euro Optic, they might can pull some strings.

Appears Euro Optic only has the TAC A1 in .223 with 20" barrel.

 

[260284]

I have a 223 Varmint that I bought with CDI bottom metal fitted to the factory stock. I had the barrel threaded and worked up a load with the 75 gr ELDM. It is a hammer for sure, my favorite rifle to shoot. I load them to 2.49" to get .020" off the lands. My son has taken it out to 1400 yards and we took first in a Jim See team match with him shooting it.

I would like to see how long you can load in the 223 CTR mags before I would buy one. I do like my 6.5 CTR mags.

 

[Sieg]

I have a 223 Varmint that I bought with CDI bottom metal fitted to the factory stock. I had the barrel threaded and worked up a load with the 75 gr ELDM. It is a hammer for sure, my favorite rifle to shoot. I load them to 2.49" to get .020" off the lands. My son has taken it out to 1400 yards and we took first in a Jim See team match with him shooting it.

I would like to see how long you can load in the 223 CTR mags before I would buy one. I do like my 6.5 CTR mags.

Nice

Is that a factory stock in the picture?

The .223 is a pleasant round to shoot recoil wise, thus my reason for choosing it. Add a suppressor and it gets better. Shooting my Vudoo .22 and .17 cal rimfires with next to no recoil has spoiled me. Our range has very challenging wind conditions which is why I'd like to have a centerfire to minimize wind effects.

And for popping sage rats of course!

 

[260284]

Nice

Is that a factory stock in the picture?

The .223 is a pleasant round to shoot recoil wise, thus my reason for choosing it. Add a suppressor and it gets better. Shooting my Vudoo .22 and .17 cal rimfires with next to no recoil has spoiled me. Our range has very challenging wind conditions which is why I'd like to have a centerfire to minimize wind effects.

And for popping sage rats of course!

That is a German Gun Stock Raptor that my son picked up used. They have an aluminum insert with a stainless recoil lug. They are laminated birch in epoxy resin with epoxy paint. We both have their lightweight Rangers (2.4lbs) and I have a Predator.

Top pic is the varmint in a Ranger, second is my CTR in the Predator, third is the aluminum bedding block.

All the stocks have the CTR bottom metal inlet. My son has a 270 in a Ranger with the standard T3 inlet.

 

[Novak77]

If you cant find a CTR in .223 and you don't want the chassis on the Tac 1, maybe check out a Sporter. I believe the 20" one comes threaded. I've got a Master Sporter in .308 and its a hammer.

 

[Sieg]

If you cant find a CTR in .223 and you don't want the chassis on the Tac 1, maybe check out a Sporter. I believe the 20" one comes threaded. I've got a Master Sporter in .308 and its a hammer.

Thank you, how old is your Master Sporter?

The Sporter is very intriguing and would work well for my applications.

Tikka's website is horrid for detail and multiple images.

 

[Novak77]

Thank you, how old is your Master Sporter?

The Sporter is very intriguing and would work well for my applications.

Tikka's website is horrid for detail and multiple images.

Not sure how old mine is, I think they stopped making the Master Sporter around 2013/14.

I’ve seen Master Sporters pop up on gunbroker in .223, for right around 1K. You’d have to have the barrel threaded though.

I’ve also seen the new Sporters with the 20” threaded barrel pop up for right around $1k too.

 

[jpspeeddemon]

I couldn't wait for the CTR in 223 to become available, so I put together a CTR-ish 223 with the following:
-Tikka T3x lite 223
-CTR stock and bottom metal, you can find these for sale all the time in the classifieds
-CTR 223 magazine, available at Eurooptic

Runs great and drives nails

 

[Sieg]

Am I the only one frustrated with trying to get accurate specific details on Tikka rifles?

Their website is extremely vague and lacking detail.

Does anyone know a good Tikka contact that I can obtain straight and accurate information on US market models?

I'd like to know accurate and specific feature and dimension details between the CTR, Sporter, and Varmint in .223.

I'm leaning toward the Sporter as it fits my needs well. The stock will probably require bedding, that's easier and cheaper than buy another stock and associated accessories.

EuroOptic shows the Sporter in 20" threaded in 18x1 on their website yet I contact them inquiring as to why they'd ship an 18x1 threaded gun to the US market and their rep says its not available. Yet there's a new 20" listed on GunBroker without thread pitch info, so I'm waiting on a reply from the seller. Downside is the pattern on stock is butt ugly.

 

[littlepod]

I don't know a contact, but I've seen these:

http://cdn1.tikka.fi/sites/default/files/technicalspecs_t3x_varmint_0.pdf

https://cdn1.tikka.fi/sites/default/files/technicalspecs_t3x_sporter_0.pdf

http://cdn1.tikka.fi/sites/default/files/Technical_specs_T3x_CTR_0.pdf

I thought all of the T3X are threaded in imperial. The older T3's were all metric.

 

[Sieg]

I don't know a contact, but I've seen these:

http://cdn1.tikka.fi/sites/default/files/technicalspecs_t3x_varmint_0.pdf

https://cdn1.tikka.fi/sites/default/files/technicalspecs_t3x_sporter_0.pdf

http://cdn1.tikka.fi/sites/default/files/Technical_specs_T3x_CTR_0.pdf

I thought all of the T3X are threaded in imperial. The older T3's were all metric.

Thank you

Though there's no date on the data sheets and

CTR page shows no .223 so I'll assume it's older.​

One would think Imperial only in the US.

It appears both 20 and 23.6" barrels are available with threading on the Sporter.

Very frustrating when you're ready to order and you can't.

 

[Stooxie]

Am I the only one frustrated with trying to get accurate specific details on Tikka rifles?

Their website is extremely vague and lacking detail.

Does anyone know a good Tikka contact that I can obtain straight and accurate information on US market models?

I'd like to know accurate and specific feature and dimension details between the CTR, Sporter, and Varmint in .223.

I'm leaning toward the Sporter as it fits my needs well. The stock will probably require bedding, that's easier and cheaper than buy another stock and associated accessories.

EuroOptic shows the Sporter in 20" threaded in 18x1 on their website yet I contact them inquiring as to why they'd ship an 18x1 threaded gun to the US market and their rep says its not available. Yet there's a new 20" listed on GunBroker without thread pitch info, so I'm waiting on a reply from the seller. Downside is the pattern on stock is butt ugly.

Tikka keeps some of the models in 18x1 because it bites a hell of a lot less meat off the end of the barrel. It's usually just the highly specialized models where that type of thing might be perceived to make a difference. It's not really up to Eurooptic, or any US dealer, it depends on what Beretta decides to import in a given year.

-Stooxie

 

[Sieg]

Tikka keeps some of the models in 18x1 because it bites a hell of a lot less meat off the end of the barrel. It's usually just the highly specialized models where that type of thing might be perceived to make a difference. It's not really up to Eurooptic, or any US dealer, it depends on what Beretta decides to import in a given year.

-Stooxie

I have a YHM Resonator in jail right now and really do not want to use an adapter. I talked with YHM on the phone and they don't offer any QD adapter in 18x1 which creates an issue. I will say that YHM was exceptional to talk with.

Not sure if my 1/2x28 QD adapter could be re-threaded or not. I'm guessing not.

 

[chris_w]

I have the Tikka T3x Varmint 24” .223 and put in a MDT chassis - couldn’t be happier. Thing is a laser with factory ammo - you won’t be disappointed.

 

[Sieg]

I have the Tikka T3x Varmint 24” .223 and put in a MDT chassis - couldn’t be happier. Thing is a laser with factory ammo - you won’t be disappointed.

Thanks for the positive reinforcement.

In all my years of shooting and research, I don't know if I've ever seen so many positive accuracy and function reports as Tikka rifles.

Now if someone will get me details and TAKE MY MONEY! ? ?

 

[ccasanova]

Tikka Tactical .223 20” in KRG Bravo
325yd

M18x1 threads. SiCo Omega

 

[Sieg]

View attachment 7119402

Tikka Tactical .223 20” in KRG Bravo
325yd

M18x1 threads. SiCo Omega

Is that the best you can do?

Nice shooting! What barrel twist and ammo?

Tactical as in CTR or earlier model with the 18x1 thread?

 

[Stooxie]

I have a T3 Scout in 223 that is 1/3 MOA all day with decent factory ammo. It's crazy.

 

[ccasanova]

What barrel twist and ammo?

Tactical as in CTR or earlier model with the 18x1 thread?

It’s an older T3, preT3x Tactical model. They do sell a T3x Tactical model but it’s $1750. That’s steep compared to the other options.

1:8 twist shooting factory 55gr vmax

 

[Stooxie]

My Scout is not threaded but has a super heavy barrel (for a Tikka), it's like 22mm in diameter at the muzzle (20" barrel)! I wanted to get it threaded in 5/8x24 but that would take the muzzle down to 15.875mm. Would it matter? Who knows, but I hesitate because it's such a big bite. 18mmx1 is obviously much less of a bite.

I'll probably leave it as is, especially since it's a rare bird among Tikkas.

-Stooxie

 

[Sieg]

My Scout is not threaded but has a super heavy barrel (for a Tikka), it's like 22mm in diameter at the muzzle (20" barrel)! I wanted to get it threaded in 5/8x24 but that would take the muzzle down to 15.875mm. Would it matter? Who knows, but I hesitate because it's such a big bite. 18mmx1 is obviously much less of a bite.

I'll probably leave it as is, especially since it's a rare bird among Tikkas.

-Stooxie

I don't think I'd mess with it either.

I really prefer shooting suppressed in my advancing age, it's more enjoyable and doesn't create as many enemies. Europe appears to have figured it out and the US bureaucracies are putting up resistance.

The M18x1 thread is nice, except the YHM Resonator I have sitting in jail requires a QD mount only available in 1/2x28 or 5/8x24. I'm not sure how an M18 thread adapter and QD adapter stacked would impact accuracy on the Sporter, and can't see how it would be beneficial.

CTR's in .223 are shown on Tikka's US website in 6 variations, then I hear they're not available, then I see one listed on someone's website but listed as "out of stock."

No detailed spec sheets appear to be available to compare the CTR, Varmint, and Sporter barrel profiles except length and twist.

The Sporter has a 23.7" barrel or 20" metric threaded, CTR's 20 & 24 Imperial threaded, Varmint 23.7" no threads. Muzzle diameters would be nice to know for heat and rigidity purposes. Stock bedding differences? Is the Sporter just a fancy looking stock? For the .223 I'd prefer the 24" length over 20" unless it's an overheating flexi flyer.

Tikka's marketing, distribution, and lack of specific data....... combined with my inherent OCDD (Obsessive Compulsive Data Disorder) is driving me Nucking Futs!

 

[ccasanova]

Your frustration with Tikka (Beretta) is certainly warranted. Good news is all the Tikkas shoot great. Give primary consideration to stock and mag preferences (factory configuration and aftermarket) to help make the decision. Skim the Tikka thread if you haven’t already.

 

[Sieg]

Your frustration with Tikka (Beretta) is certainly warranted. Good news is all the Tikkas shoot great. Give primary consideration to stock and mag preferences (factory configuration and aftermarket) to help make the decision. Skim the Tikka thread if you haven’t already.

I've done a lot of skimming threads in the last week, my eyes look like those of a serious pothead.

A CTR or Varmint in the Bravo stock would work. The Bravo ergo's aren't great but they aren't bad and acceptable for the price point. It also appears to provide a solid bedding surface so that eliminates the hassle of bedding. I'm satisfied with it on my Vudoo.

I can also switch over the forearm plate and bag rider from the Vudoo to the Tikka that way.​

IF the CTR is available that resolves the suppressor situation.

The uniqueness of the Sporter is really appealing though...… If if if.

 

[littlepod]

I've done a lot of skimming threads in the last week, my eyes look like those of a serious pothead.

A CTR or Varmint in the Bravo stock would work. The Bravo ergo's aren't great but they aren't bad and acceptable for the price point. It also appears to provide a solid bedding surface so that eliminates the hassle of bedding. I'm satisfied with it on my Vudoo.
I can also switch over the forearm plate and bag rider from the Vudoo to the Tikka that way.

IF the CTR is available that resolves the suppressor situation.

The uniqueness of the Sporter is really appealing though...… If if if.

This was what I was going to buy --

GunBroker.com - Error

Already threaded, varmint .223. Throw it in a Bravo, and call it good.

 

[FiremanSamiam]

I don't think I'd mess with it either.

I really prefer shooting suppressed in my advancing age, it's more enjoyable and doesn't create as many enemies. Europe appears to have figured it out and the US bureaucracies are putting up resistance.

The M18x1 thread is nice, except the YHM Resonator I have sitting in jail requires a QD mount only available in 1/2x28 or 5/8x24. I'm not sure how an M18 thread adapter and QD adapter stacked would impact accuracy on the Sporter, and can't see how it would be beneficial.

CTR's in .223 are shown on Tikka's US website in 6 variations, then I hear they're not available, then I see one listed on someone's website but listed as "out of stock."

No detailed spec sheets appear to be available to compare the CTR, Varmint, and Sporter barrel profiles except length and twist.

The Sporter has a 23.7" barrel or 20" metric threaded, CTR's 20 & 24 Imperial threaded, Varmint 23.7" no threads. Muzzle diameters would be nice to know for heat and rigidity purposes. Stock bedding differences? Is the Sporter just a fancy looking stock? For the .223 I'd prefer the 24" length over 20" unless it's an overheating flexi flyer.

Tikka's marketing, distribution, and lack of specific data....... combined with my inherent OCDD (Obsessive Compulsive Data Disorder) is driving me Nucking Futs!

I agree 100%. Almost impossible to compare different models.

 

[260284]

This was what I was going to buy --

GunBroker.com - Error

Already threaded, varmint .223. Throw it in a Bravo, and call it good.

This is a good deal. I bought my varmint used with CDI bottom metal and two AI AICS mags. Pretty easy to get any local smith to thread your barrel.

 

[Stooxie]

Going back to your original questions, and echoing some of the others here:

The difference in barrel length between 20 and 24" won't give you any inherent accuracy potential or deficit. Any potential difference is theoretical only-- shorter barrels are stiffer, etc. Length will mostly only affect velocity.

Same is true for the barrel steel. Many of us has Tikkas in blue and stainless and find no practical difference.

The purists complain about the recoil lug setup and the OEM synthetic stocks but that seems to have little/no effect on practical accuracy. Many drop them into chassis or other stocks and often say "Accuracy didn't change but the ergonomics feel much better." If you're going to use a bipod additional forearm stiffness might be desired.

I have all my Tikkas in GRS stocks (both laminate and synthetic) but that's more for the ergonomics than the accuracy. My 308 CTR, for example, shot single ragged holes in the factory stock and continues to do so in the GRS Berserk. My 223 Scout makes the same bugholes in the GRS laminate stock as it did in the factory stock.

I have similar OCD but I finally got to the point where I realized that the person behind the trigger and what you feed the gun matters far more than any of those other factors. I was at the range last week and saw some dude committing every carnal sin when trying to zero a scope. Chasing POI, making adjustments after each shot with cheap ammo, on a cheap scope (gives too much credit to the turrets), etc, etc. I know, because I used to do the same. A little patience and knowledge solved my zeroing issues.

In all seriousness, learning to let go a little bit of the OCD will make you 10X a better shooter than the finest equipment in the world. Save you a ton of cash, too! One of the reasons I love Tikka is that I know I'm at least starting from a great platform, then I just need to focus on my performance.

-Stooxie

 

[Sieg]

Going back to your original questions, and echoing some of the others here:

The difference in barrel length between 20 and 24" won't give you any inherent accuracy potential or deficit. Any potential difference is theoretical only-- shorter barrels are stiffer, etc. Length will mostly only affect velocity.

Same is true for the barrel steel. Many of us has Tikkas in blue and stainless and find no practical difference.

The purists complain about the recoil lug setup and the OEM synthetic stocks but that seems to have little/no effect on practical accuracy. Many drop them into chassis or other stocks and often say "Accuracy didn't change but the ergonomics feel much better." If you're going to use a bipod additional forearm stiffness might be desired.

I have all my Tikkas in GRS stocks (both laminate and synthetic) but that's more for the ergonomics than the accuracy. My 308 CTR, for example, shot single ragged holes in the factory stock and continues to do so in the GRS Berserk. My 223 Scout makes the same bugholes in the GRS laminate stock as it did in the factory stock.

I have similar OCD but I finally got to the point where I realized that the person behind the trigger and what you feed the gun matters far more than any of those other factors. I was at the range last week and saw some dude committing every carnal sin when trying to zero a scope. Chasing POI, making adjustments after each shot with cheap ammo, on a cheap scope (gives too much credit to the turrets), etc, etc. I know, because I used to do the same. A little patience and knowledge solved my zeroing issues.

In all seriousness, learning to let go a little bit of the OCD will make you 10X a better shooter than the finest equipment in the world. Save you a ton of cash, too! One of the reasons I love Tikka is that I know I'm at least starting from a great platform, then I just need to focus on my performance.

-Stooxie

You're killin me Smalls
Great responses

First of all, I'll be the first to admit a bad setup of pull. As a longtime competitive golfer, the majority of bad shots are not the equipment, it's usually setup and technique. Excessive LOFT is what we'd tell people bitching about their bad shot...… Lack Of F'n Talent.

20" vs 24" is velocity motivated, with the little .223 every little bit counts. When shooting sage rats it's all about the volume and tone of the POP! goes the squirrel game. Also a bonus if I decide to play Long Ranger.

Good to hear about the OEM vs aftermarket stock performance. Ergonomics are important to me, if you can't comfortably settle in to the rifle it does compromise performance potential. I use tabletop Dog Gone Good bag for varmint, Atlas and Harris bipods, and a Cowan Rest with Protektor bags for the majority of my shooting. The recoil lug is a critical link, though with the .223 the T3x's lug appears adequate....... Devcon Steel Putty in stock if required.

Regarding chasing zero's...…. we had the winds and mirage from hell yesterday morning at our 100-200yds rimfire match. My rifle was zeroed at 50 and we started at 200 and we had 10 minutes to sight in. The mirage was so bad I could barely see POI's with the Trijicon 5-50x56...… I neglected to put a splatter target on my sighter. Setup fail induced a minor panick situation and low confidence. Old eyes compound this 10x.

"learning to let go a little bit of the OCD"

Ain't happening

 

[Sieg]

@Stooxie Are the GRS stocks as comfortable as they look?

How's the rest position for your trigger hand thumb?

Is the Pillar system in the laminate stock adequate and did you bed yours?

The push button comb and LOP adjustments would be convenient.

Due to Tikka's lack of detail I'm not sure if the Sporter isn't just a Varmint barreled action in a dressed up laminate stock. A Varmint and GRS Hybrid with more adjustability are basically even money with the Sporter. I did confirm the Sporter has a .9" muzzle diameter so it's a relatively heavy barrel.

Then I looked at the T3x Tactical which they say has a "match grade" barrel, but don't say what makes it match grade other than the $1748 price point and comes in the Varmint adjustable stock.

Getting Tikka technical info is frustrating. I would have ordered a rifle today if they clearly spec'd the models.

 

[MarinePMI]

Tikka Varmint T-3X .223, 24" barrel, threaded (Varminter 3.0 can), 5-25 Leupold Mk 5 in Spuhr, in an MPA BA Competition chassis. The prairie dogs hate me...

 

[260284]

@Stooxie Are the GRS stocks as comfortable as they look?

How's the rest position for your trigger hand thumb?

Is the Pillar system in the laminate stock adequate and did you bed yours?

The push button comb and LOP adjustments would be convenient.

Due to Tikka's lack of detail I'm not sure if the Sporter isn't just a Varmint barreled action in a dressed up laminate stock. A Varmint and GRS Hybrid with more adjustability are basically even money with the Sporter. I did confirm the Sporter has a .9" muzzle diameter so it's a relatively heavy barrel.

Then I looked at the T3x Tactical which they say has a "match grade" barrel, but don't say what makes it match grade other than the $1748 price point and comes in the Varmint adjustable stock.

Getting Tikka technical info is frustrating. I would have ordered a rifle today if they clearly spec'd the models.

All Tikka barrels are cold hammer forged and are made in the same factory as the Sako barrels.

 

[Stooxie]

@Stooxie Are the GRS stocks as comfortable as they look?

How's the rest position for your trigger hand thumb?

Is the Pillar system in the laminate stock adequate and did you bed yours?

The push button comb and LOP adjustments would be convenient.

Due to Tikka's lack of detail I'm not sure if the Sporter isn't just a Varmint barreled action in a dressed up laminate stock. A Varmint and GRS Hybrid with more adjustability are basically even money with the Sporter. I did confirm the Sporter has a .9" muzzle diameter so it's a relatively heavy barrel.

Then I looked at the T3x Tactical which they say has a "match grade" barrel, but don't say what makes it match grade other than the $1748 price point and comes in the Varmint adjustable stock.

Getting Tikka technical info is frustrating. I would have ordered a rifle today if they clearly spec'd the models.

The GRS stocks are fantastic. I am amazed at how overlooked they are on these boards. Most of these chassis look like they have the ergonomics and weight of a brick. I guess most are for bench rest shooting, I hunt with mine. The GRS stocks are super comfortable and, to me, really reduce felt recoil. I know that's such an overused term, but the way the GRS stocks fill your hands and transmit force to your body just makes recoil feel much more comfortable. The grip angle works beautifully as well. It feels like a handful when you first try it but it quickly becomes more natural feeling than a normal stock.

The synthetic stocks require no bedding, they have pillars molded in and you tighten down to 5nm (about 45 inch pounds). The laminate ones only say to be bedded if you use magnum calibers but I bedded mine anyway. I watched a few youtube videos on how to do it and went to down. I kinda found it fun. I can provide lots of tips on bedding Tikkas in GRS laminate stocks.

I think your thought process is spot-on. I believe there really isn't much difference among the Tikkas, it's kind of their whole MO anyway. I did exactly what you said, I bought normal, cheap Tikka T3x Lites and customized them myself. Get a Varmint with the $75 rebate going on now, get a GRS stock from Eurooptic (they just cut the prices across the board), and if you want, send the barreled action off to LRI for Cerakoting. You'll have a weatherproof, semi-custom rifle with fully adjustable ergonomic stock for less than other people are paying for just a receiver. I bet it will be less than a 3/4th MOA shooter, too. Maybe even a half.

Here's a picture of my T3 Scout 223 in a GRS Hunter stock. Pillar bedded myself, 1/3 MOA all day.

-Stooxie

 

[Sieg]

The GRS stocks are fantastic. I am amazed at how overlooked they are on these boards. Most of these chassis look like they have the ergonomics and weight of a brick. I guess most are for bench rest shooting, I hunt with mine. The GRS stocks are super comfortable and, to me, really reduce felt recoil. I know that's such an overused term, but the way the GRS stocks fill your hands and transmit force to your body just makes recoil feel much more comfortable. The grip angle works beautifully as well. It feels like a handful when you first try it but it quickly becomes more natural feeling than a normal stock.

The synthetic stocks require no bedding, they have pillars molded in and you tighten down to 5nm (about 45 inch pounds). The laminate ones only say to be bedded if you use magnum calibers but I bedded mine anyway. I watched a few youtube videos on how to do it and went to down. I kinda found it fun. I can provide lots of tips on bedding Tikkas in GRS laminate stocks.

I think your thought process is spot-on. I believe there really isn't much difference among the Tikkas, it's kind of their whole MO anyway. I did exactly what you said, I bought normal, cheap Tikka T3x Lites and customized them myself. Get a Varmint with the $75 rebate going on now, get a GRS stock from Eurooptic (they just cut the prices across the board), and if you want, send the barreled action off to LRI for Cerakoting. You'll have a weatherproof, semi-custom rifle with fully adjustable ergonomic stock for less than other people are paying for just a receiver. I bet it will be less than a 3/4th MOA shooter, too. Maybe even a half.

Here's a picture of my T3 Scout 223 in a GRS Hunter stock. Pillar bedded myself, 1/3 MOA all day.

View attachment 7122759

-Stooxie

Thanks for the detailed input and confirmation of my suspicions. The cant and contour of the GRS grip looks very comfortable, more so than my KRG Bravo. Where do you position your thumb on the GRS?

One thing I like about laminated stocks is they are easy to custom contour to your own hand. I have Devcon Steel Putty in stock and a can of Spruh Konig which makes spot finishing easy. The Boyds Pro Varmint my Savage Bmag sits in required heavy modification to obtain a comfortable grip, though its the most comfortable grip I have now.

Compared to the Varmint, the T3x Tactical and Sporter appear to be not much more than stylized marketing hype.

The Varmint with the GRS which adds quick cheek riser and LOP adjustment with a natural grip position makes the most sense. The worst part is the GRS Hybrid is backordered 3-5 months, but EuroOptic's price is hard to argue.

The GRS laminates use aluminum pillars right? What about the recoil lug fit? I'm assuming the GRS laminates are actually milled parallel to the bore compared to my Boyds stock that I spent hours on squaring and cleaning up sloppy machining. Thankfully I have a small manual mill that makes mods relatively easy.

Last question - Is your T3 Scout a factory 1:8 barrel? If so, what bullet/ammo does it like?

 

[DownhillFromHere]

I'm a little late to @Sieg's party here, but fwiw here's a photo of my .223 T3X Varmint in an MDT LSS-XL gen-2 chassis with MDT skeleton buttstock. Scope is a Vortex Viper PST 5-25x50 on an MDT 20MOA rail.

I don't handload .223 yet because I have quite a bit of .223 factory ammo on hand. The rifle definitely likes 69grain SMKs as loaded in Defender Ammunition's match rounds; these will group into 1/2" @100 quite consistently. I've gotten 1.5" groups at 300 but I don't shoot paper out that far very often.

After this case of 69gr SMK supply is gone, I have several boxes of Defender's 77grain SMK in their 5.56 loading. I've shot maybe 40-50 round of it as a trial and it seemed to be as accurate as the 69grain with similar velocity as the lighter bullet. Of course, it is widely known that 5.56 ammo is loaded to higher pressure than .223 - but the reality is no one handloads .223 to factory pressure anyway. I see absolutely no pressure signs with the the 5.56 round.

The rifle, so far, has not liked any 75grain loading I've tried in it at all. The loads tried so far are all 75grain Hornadys, one the HPBT in Hornady's no-longer-available Steel Match loading and ELDs in two buddies' handloads that are 1/2"@100 rounds in their rifles. None will keep even 1" groups in my rifle.

I haven't been shooting this rifle much because I've been working with my Vudoo and my Stiller-based 6.5CM so much. The latter two rifles are in MPA BA Comp chassis; I've come to really like the vertical grips. The MDT LSS-XL chassis has a usable thumb shelf which works with the AR grip in place now; I like the MPA grip better, but as I recall the MPA grip doesn't fit the MDT chassis quite right. Not sure how I'll upgrade the grip; I'm not a fan of the MDT vertical grip (to be fair, I've not had a chance to put my hand on one).

Finally, of course, if/when I shoot this rifle more, I have to put a grown-up bolt handle in place of the dinky little factory nub.

Anyway. You won't go wrong with the T3X Varmint accuracy-wise.

 

[Sieg]

I'm a little late to @Sieg's party here, but fwiw here's a photo of my .223 T3X Varmint in an MDT LSS-XL gen-2 chassis with MDT skeleton buttstock. Scope is a Vortex Viper PST 5-25x50 on an MDT 20MOA rail.

I don't handload .223 yet because I have quite a bit of .223 factory ammo on hand. The rifle definitely likes 69grain SMKs as loaded in Defender Ammunition's match rounds; these will group into 1/2" @100 quite consistently. I've gotten 1.5" groups at 300 but I don't shoot paper out that far very often.

After this case of 69gr SMK supply is gone, I have several boxes of Defender's 77grain SMK in their 5.56 loading. I've shot maybe 40-50 round of it as a trial and it seemed to be as accurate as the 69grain with similar velocity as the lighter bullet. Of course, it is widely known that 5.56 ammo is loaded to higher pressure than .223 - but the reality is no one handloads .223 to factory pressure anyway. I see absolutely no pressure signs with the the 5.56 round.

The rifle, so far, has not liked any 75grain loading I've tried in it at all. The loads tried so far are all 75grain Hornadys, one the HPBT in Hornady's no-longer-available Steel Match loading and ELDs in two buddies' handloads that are 1/2"@100 rounds in their rifles. None will keep even 1" groups in my rifle.

I haven't been shooting this rifle much because I've been working with my Vudoo and my Stiller-based 6.5CM so much. The latter two rifles are in MPA BA Comp chassis; I've come to really like the vertical grips. The MDT LSS-XL chassis has a usable thumb shelf which works with the AR grip in place now; I like the MPA grip better, but as I recall the MPA grip doesn't fit the MDT chassis quite right. Not sure how I'll upgrade the grip; I'm not a fan of the MDT vertical grip (to be fair, I've not had a chance to put my hand on one).

Finally, of course, if/when I shoot this rifle more, I have to put a grown-up bolt handle in place of the dinky little factory nub.

Anyway. You won't go wrong with the T3X Varmint accuracy-wise.
View attachment 7122815

@DownhillFromHere Never too late, this adventure is just starting!

Nice looking rifle and thanks for the ammunition insight. I've wasted a lot of change chasing rimfire brands, styles, and lots in three different rifles. I too have a Vudoo V-22 addiction and absolutely love it. Best money I've spent on a firearm.