Considering purchase of a Savage 110 tactical 26" in 338 Lapua. Does anyone have direct experience with this rifle chambered in this cartridge?
Any comment is helpful.
Thanks,
Viper1
Any comment is helpful.
Thanks,
Viper1
- Thread starter Viper1
- Start date
I shoot with two guys who have Savage 338 Lapuas. One is the 110BA (the cool looking one) and the other guy has a more conventional looking rifle.
They both shoot very well and were easily hitting a 12" plate at 1,000 yards. I've only shot the 110BA. I was surprised at how effective the break was. It has very light recoil....or at least I thought it did.
They are probably the most cost effective way to get into the 338 game.
I think you will be pleased.
They both shoot very well and were easily hitting a 12" plate at 1,000 yards. I've only shot the 110BA. I was surprised at how effective the break was. It has very light recoil....or at least I thought it did.
They are probably the most cost effective way to get into the 338 game.
I think you will be pleased.
I had many issues with the 110 FCP .338 Lapua. Horrible groups and failure to fire. Ended up selling it after six months. Others had great luck, some had horrible luck. I had the ATACR mounted up on it so that wasn't the issue. If you purchase one, good luck with it. I'm still a Savage fan but it seems I got the short end of the stick on that one.
I have the 110 hs precision with atacr mounted on it and it shoots well. Shot seven shot group at 100 I covered with a quarter. Very happy with it.
With as much trouble as there seems to be with savage and the 338 I think I'd go the custom route and not worrie about it. If you do not reload, now would be a good time to start
I went back and forth between the Savage 338 and 300 WM, Because the 338 was so new to me I went with the 300 WM, been sitting here over a month now, waiting on a criterion bull barrel at 28 inches from Jim at NSS. I have it mounted in a Choate with bottom metal already. I will have a 338 some day and it will be a Savage just because I can build it myself with no machining needed.I am a big Savage fan, like my Remmy's too but the Savage is the most accurate rifle out of the box I ever shot, I have owned many of the 3 major brands, Winchester has the smoothest action though.
Finally a decent day and had a chance to shoot my 110 FCP 338 Lapua. Mounted a Nightforce ATACR on it and I must say that scope is awesome. Shot a couple 3-5 shot groups with factor 300gr lapua ammo that were just under an inch at 200 yards. Tested some hand loads and I think 92-93gr of retumbo behind 300gr Bergers will be where I start the next batch. I am happy with it. 
I had a 110 BA. Horrible groups, heavy bolt lift, stuck cases. Sold it.
I'm not alone on this - brass type didn't matter although lapua brass was less likely to stick. Still didn't help tighten up the 2.5 MOA groups it averaged...
I love savages, but i highly, HIGHLY recommend looking for a shilen, criterion, etc barrel for it sooner than later. I also highly recommend a longer barrel, like 28-30".
I'm not alone on this - brass type didn't matter although lapua brass was less likely to stick. Still didn't help tighten up the 2.5 MOA groups it averaged...
I love savages, but i highly, HIGHLY recommend looking for a shilen, criterion, etc barrel for it sooner than later. I also highly recommend a longer barrel, like 28-30".
My local gun shop has a large sign above the rifle ammo, "DO NOT SHOOT HORNADY AMMUNTION IN SAVAGE'S 338'S". I'm assuming it's because Hornady runs pretty hot factory loads and if it's anything like my experience with my lrp, hot loads and savage chambers don't mix well. Stuck cases left and right.
Once again, I don't know the reason behind the sign, but it is there.
Once again, I don't know the reason behind the sign, but it is there.
I was all hot and bothered for the 338 LM.
But then I looked at ammo costs. And the fact the max range round here is 1K.
SO, since I was just lookin' for a paper puncher, I went 6.5 CM
That said, I'm still a little hot and bothered for a 338 LM. I'll prolly go Noreen in a XLR chassis, or an Armalite AR30.
But then I looked at ammo costs. And the fact the max range round here is 1K.
SO, since I was just lookin' for a paper puncher, I went 6.5 CM
That said, I'm still a little hot and bothered for a 338 LM. I'll prolly go Noreen in a XLR chassis, or an Armalite AR30.
Sure, a 6.5 creed will get you there, but how often will it get you right where you want to go? Every, EVERY outside influence will affect that little bullet significantly more than a 300gr 338 round. A few squirrels fart during that 1.6ish second time of flight and you're off target.
Granted, the wind challenge that comes with 1k plus shooting is part of the fun, but so is hitting smaller targets at longer distances more often than not. Not to mention, long range Hunters may have no problem getting on target at long range with the likes of a 260, 6.5 creed, but want to have enough energy to make a humane kill
To each his own. I love my 308 and just picked up my Krieger barreled savage chambered in 260. They are great for mid range shooting. But there's something to be said about how it feels to shoot a big bore magnum rifle and to make hit after hit easily at 1k plus with enough energy to really swing steel.
All true. I love my 308 also. In truth MOST of my shooting will be at 600 for the Creedmoor. And like I says, I still want a 338LM. I don't hunt (just not into it) When I have 1000+ yard range, then I'll be able to justify the cost.
I guess my other point for the OP is going cheap (Savage) he might regret it. I've never regretted the extra time I've waited and got a consistent, proven quality firearm.
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Cheap or better value? Its in the eye of the beerholder.
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The guy I shoot with who has the 110BA was having a big problem with Hornady cases that he reloaded getting stuck in his chamber when he fired them. He didn't have the problem with Lapua brass.
This has been VERY well covered on these boards. People say it is because the 338 Hornady brass is soft and expands a lot them fired. My buddy also found that his FL resizing die would stop a little early and leave a barely noticeable "bump" in the sides of the case. When the brass was fired the next time, the small "bump" pressed against the inside of the chamber and it was a pain to eject. He changed brands on his F.L. resizing die and has no further problems with Hornady brass in his Savage 338.
If I used poor terminology, it is because I don't reload. I'm going from memory what he told me.
If your looking to get into a 338 Lapua on the cheap then I would say go for a 110 FCP HS Precision. Mine performed great. Didn't have any bolt lift or extraction issues even with 93.5gr of retumbo using lapua brass. However even with a good deal on a 110 HS precision (I paid $1280 shipped for mine) it is not a cheap endeavor. You will need good glass and something that will handle the recoil. Many choices out there but expect to pay $1000 on up. I went with Nightforce ATACR. And don't forget rings with that. Then you will need to feed the beast. Factory ammo is not cheap. Right now expect to pay $120 on up for 20 rounds. If you reload the cost will be lower in the long run but up front costs are high. Redding 338 competition seating die with Types S neck bushing die and body die will run you around $250. Because I read of many horror stories of hand loads using Hornady brass I stepped up and bought Lapua brass. New it will run you $250 or higher. And powder, you will only get about 70-75 rounds out of a pound.
I would say even with a Savage you will have spent roughly 3 grand or more before you ever send a round down range. But I think it's worth it.
I would say even with a Savage you will have spent roughly 3 grand or more before you ever send a round down range. But I think it's worth it.
If you buy one, loctite the rail as it will work its way loose immediately even if you tighten it down.
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