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Re: Corvette oil change?
Run 5/30 or 10/30 unless its burning oil. Also stay with mineral based oil on these vintage cars instead of synthetic. While there is nothing wrong with using synthetic, you might see some leaks, due to the difference in the molecular makeup of the oil, the particles in synthetic are smaller than mineral based oils, so they can find any small leak spot that exists, that wouldn't normally leak with the heavier, mineral based oils.
Run 5/30 or 10/30 unless its burning oil. Also stay with mineral based oil on these vintage cars instead of synthetic. While there is nothing wrong with using synthetic, you might see some leaks, due to the difference in the molecular makeup of the oil, the particles in synthetic are smaller than mineral based oils, so they can find any small leak spot that exists, that wouldn't normally leak with the heavier, mineral based oils.
Re: Corvette oil change?
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Silver_Bullet_00</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Run 5/30 or 10/30 unless its burning oil. Also stay with mineral based oil on these vintage cars instead of synthetic. While there is nothing wrong with using synthetic, you might see some leaks, due to the difference in the molecular makeup of the oil, the particles in synthetic are smaller than mineral based oils, so they can find any small leak spot that exists, that wouldn't normally leak with the heavier, mineral based oils. </div></div>
Sage advice above, The syn. will also strip the petroleum from the gaskets and seals causing leaks that have soaked up the petrol. oil over time.
Interesting about the use of Rottela in a spark engine as the oil is formulated for a compression engine.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Silver_Bullet_00</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Run 5/30 or 10/30 unless its burning oil. Also stay with mineral based oil on these vintage cars instead of synthetic. While there is nothing wrong with using synthetic, you might see some leaks, due to the difference in the molecular makeup of the oil, the particles in synthetic are smaller than mineral based oils, so they can find any small leak spot that exists, that wouldn't normally leak with the heavier, mineral based oils. </div></div>
Sage advice above, The syn. will also strip the petroleum from the gaskets and seals causing leaks that have soaked up the petrol. oil over time.
Interesting about the use of Rottela in a spark engine as the oil is formulated for a compression engine.
Re: Corvette oil change?
I have always been partial to Kendall It is in my opinion the best non synthetic. I run water for oil in my 83' Corvette. Just a little inside Chevy dealer tech joke. I would run a 10w40 unless you have cold weather issues.
I have always been partial to Kendall It is in my opinion the best non synthetic. I run water for oil in my 83' Corvette. Just a little inside Chevy dealer tech joke. I would run a 10w40 unless you have cold weather issues.
Re: Corvette oil change?
Use a brand of oil that still has ZDDP... Alot of brands no longer have the additive, and have been know to wreck havoc on the cam and lifters.
Use a brand of oil that still has ZDDP... Alot of brands no longer have the additive, and have been know to wreck havoc on the cam and lifters.
Re: Corvette oil change?
Most motorcycle oils have quite a bit of ZDDP (most bikes have wet clutches, and share oil amongst engine, tranny and clutch)
Also zinc dialkyldithiophosphate is a primary component in such over-the-counter engine additives as STP Engine Treatment.
A few years ago, most oils could be found with as much as .15% ZDDP, but now since the revamp with the american petroleum institute and their changed standards, most engine oils now contain less that .05% ZDDP
Most motorcycle oils have quite a bit of ZDDP (most bikes have wet clutches, and share oil amongst engine, tranny and clutch)
Also zinc dialkyldithiophosphate is a primary component in such over-the-counter engine additives as STP Engine Treatment.
A few years ago, most oils could be found with as much as .15% ZDDP, but now since the revamp with the american petroleum institute and their changed standards, most engine oils now contain less that .05% ZDDP
Re: Corvette oil change?
Cheap store brand 10w30 and Lucas oil supplement. 4 qts oil and 1 qt Lucas.
Cheap store brand 10w30 and Lucas oil supplement. 4 qts oil and 1 qt Lucas.
Re: Corvette oil change?
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: wirehand</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Silver_Bullet_00</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Run 5/30 or 10/30 unless its burning oil. Also stay with mineral based oil on these vintage cars instead of synthetic. While there is nothing wrong with using synthetic, you might see some leaks, due to the difference in the molecular makeup of the oil, the particles in synthetic are smaller than mineral based oils, so they can find any small leak spot that exists, that wouldn't normally leak with the heavier, mineral based oils. </div></div>
Sage advice above, The syn. will also strip the petroleum from the gaskets and seals causing leaks that have soaked up the petrol. oil over time.
Interesting about the use of Rottela in a spark engine as the oil is formulated for a compression engine. </div></div>
The above is true which is unfortunate as the synthetics, such as Amsoil, are much bette
er lubricants and will give better performance, mileage, and engine life. But they will make an older engine leak.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: wirehand</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Silver_Bullet_00</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Run 5/30 or 10/30 unless its burning oil. Also stay with mineral based oil on these vintage cars instead of synthetic. While there is nothing wrong with using synthetic, you might see some leaks, due to the difference in the molecular makeup of the oil, the particles in synthetic are smaller than mineral based oils, so they can find any small leak spot that exists, that wouldn't normally leak with the heavier, mineral based oils. </div></div>
Sage advice above, The syn. will also strip the petroleum from the gaskets and seals causing leaks that have soaked up the petrol. oil over time.
Interesting about the use of Rottela in a spark engine as the oil is formulated for a compression engine. </div></div>
The above is true which is unfortunate as the synthetics, such as Amsoil, are much bette
er lubricants and will give better performance, mileage, and engine life. But they will make an older engine leak.
Re: Corvette oil change?
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: slowkota</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Use a brand of oil that still has ZDDP... Alot of brands no longer have the additive, and have been know to wreck havoc on the cam and lifters. </div></div>
From what I've read, our Goobermint has protected us once again by a decree that only trace amounts of ZDDP are allowed in motor oil.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: slowkota</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Use a brand of oil that still has ZDDP... Alot of brands no longer have the additive, and have been know to wreck havoc on the cam and lifters. </div></div>
From what I've read, our Goobermint has protected us once again by a decree that only trace amounts of ZDDP are allowed in motor oil.
Re: Corvette oil change?
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: fw707</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: slowkota</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Use a brand of oil that still has ZDDP... Alot of brands no longer have the additive, and have been know to wreck havoc on the cam and lifters. </div></div>
From what I've read, our Goobermint has protected us once again by a decree that only trace amounts of ZDDP are allowed in motor oil.
</div></div>
Yeah... "Trace amounts"
LOL!!!
They've been shittin on the levels for some time now... But in the past few years, it's been dropped so low, that it has been detrimently effecting classic camshaft + pushrod motors!
I've seen a plenty of camshaft lobes get wiped out due to that (alledgedly)!
I even had to pull my cam, and rebuild my engine, due to using Royal Purple motor oil... I don't recommend using royal purple motor oil, (google it if you don't believe me)
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: fw707</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: slowkota</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Use a brand of oil that still has ZDDP... Alot of brands no longer have the additive, and have been know to wreck havoc on the cam and lifters. </div></div>
From what I've read, our Goobermint has protected us once again by a decree that only trace amounts of ZDDP are allowed in motor oil.
</div></div>
Yeah... "Trace amounts"
LOL!!!
They've been shittin on the levels for some time now... But in the past few years, it's been dropped so low, that it has been detrimently effecting classic camshaft + pushrod motors!
I've seen a plenty of camshaft lobes get wiped out due to that (alledgedly)!
I even had to pull my cam, and rebuild my engine, due to using Royal Purple motor oil... I don't recommend using royal purple motor oil, (google it if you don't believe me)
Re: Corvette oil change?
Use a little caution with some of the additives. GM has an additive called EOS that has lots of the soft metals in it like zinc barium beryllium, etc. The issue with these soft metals is they work great for break in because it has a much higher pressure protection between parts, the bad part is these softer metals get into the combustion chamber and form hot spots that can induce pre-ignition, detonation.
Don't over-think this if it is a stock motor they are fun yes but they don't have the horsepower that requires lots of special attention. A good high quality 10W40 is all you need
Use a little caution with some of the additives. GM has an additive called EOS that has lots of the soft metals in it like zinc barium beryllium, etc. The issue with these soft metals is they work great for break in because it has a much higher pressure protection between parts, the bad part is these softer metals get into the combustion chamber and form hot spots that can induce pre-ignition, detonation.
Don't over-think this if it is a stock motor they are fun yes but they don't have the horsepower that requires lots of special attention. A good high quality 10W40 is all you need
Re: Corvette oil change?
OK this threads been good for some laughs but it's time to clear the air. In 2006 the EPA in their infinite wisdom (sarcasm) and seemingly untouchable power decided to mandate that oil companies remove a lot of good stuff from oil. The one most noted in this tread is Zinc so I'll explain this. The EPA thinks that Zinc 'harms' the catalyst in a catalytic converter hence the now lower levels allowed in your usual oils. Zinc doesn't do anything but facilitate the bonding of other, more effective additives such as Molybdenum disulfate MoS2+H2O/heat->MoO3, BN, WS2, etc... which is why some have mentioned adding ZDDP (Zinc dialkyldithiophosphate). Adding this is OK but Phosphate additives without antioxidants such as a few different sulfides/esters/amines/phenols will corrode copper which is in your bearings/gaskets/etc..
Slowkota, oil 'tractoring' is probably what caused your cam failure and is usually due to insufficient/wrong additive packages in engines with solid lifters.
Anyway, I could go on forever as tribology is my area of specialty (mechanical engineering) but there are simply millions of crazy combos one could come up with to toss in their motors. The bottom line is that with modern additive packages already in place in all but the crappiest oils you're going to be just fine running any of the major brands. The base oil isn't important and are basically good forever, it's the additives that are sheared and oxidized which is why you have to replace your oil (and getting rid of acids/ash/etc.). So don't worry about adding additives unless you're planning on going over the 5,000-ish mark if you have roller lifters/3-4K if you have solid. Of course these are just rough numbers and all of the above is just a super-laymen, quick and dirty explanation.
In short I wouldn't worry about it if you change you oil often with any major brand you'll be just fine. But if you're super anal and have extra cash to literally throw down the drain do some ZDDP or Silk if you can find that but they stopped making it or you can PM me as I keep a good stock (buy it in barrels) of all of this and more on hand...
OK this threads been good for some laughs but it's time to clear the air. In 2006 the EPA in their infinite wisdom (sarcasm) and seemingly untouchable power decided to mandate that oil companies remove a lot of good stuff from oil. The one most noted in this tread is Zinc so I'll explain this. The EPA thinks that Zinc 'harms' the catalyst in a catalytic converter hence the now lower levels allowed in your usual oils. Zinc doesn't do anything but facilitate the bonding of other, more effective additives such as Molybdenum disulfate MoS2+H2O/heat->MoO3, BN, WS2, etc... which is why some have mentioned adding ZDDP (Zinc dialkyldithiophosphate). Adding this is OK but Phosphate additives without antioxidants such as a few different sulfides/esters/amines/phenols will corrode copper which is in your bearings/gaskets/etc..
Slowkota, oil 'tractoring' is probably what caused your cam failure and is usually due to insufficient/wrong additive packages in engines with solid lifters.
Anyway, I could go on forever as tribology is my area of specialty (mechanical engineering) but there are simply millions of crazy combos one could come up with to toss in their motors. The bottom line is that with modern additive packages already in place in all but the crappiest oils you're going to be just fine running any of the major brands. The base oil isn't important and are basically good forever, it's the additives that are sheared and oxidized which is why you have to replace your oil (and getting rid of acids/ash/etc.). So don't worry about adding additives unless you're planning on going over the 5,000-ish mark if you have roller lifters/3-4K if you have solid. Of course these are just rough numbers and all of the above is just a super-laymen, quick and dirty explanation.
In short I wouldn't worry about it if you change you oil often with any major brand you'll be just fine. But if you're super anal and have extra cash to literally throw down the drain do some ZDDP or Silk if you can find that but they stopped making it or you can PM me as I keep a good stock (buy it in barrels) of all of this and more on hand...
Re: Corvette oil change?
Writng as a Racing Engine Machinist with 18 yrs combined experience at 2 World Class Engine shops I will share what each of the owners would have recommended. NEVER run synthetic oil in a flat tappet cam motor, provides NO point-contact protection at the tappet / cam lobe interface. Use 20/50 if ambient temp is not near freezing, especially in a motor with more mileage. Brand-wise, use Kendall if you can get it. Can't get it here in AZ for some reason. YMMV Joe
Writng as a Racing Engine Machinist with 18 yrs combined experience at 2 World Class Engine shops I will share what each of the owners would have recommended. NEVER run synthetic oil in a flat tappet cam motor, provides NO point-contact protection at the tappet / cam lobe interface. Use 20/50 if ambient temp is not near freezing, especially in a motor with more mileage. Brand-wise, use Kendall if you can get it. Can't get it here in AZ for some reason. YMMV Joe
Re: Corvette oil change?
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: hStiglitz</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Writng as a Racing Engine Machinist with 18 yrs combined experience at 2 World Class Engine shops I will share what each of the owners would have recommended. NEVER run synthetic oil in a flat tappet cam motor, provides NO point-contact protection at the tappet / cam lobe interface. Use 20/50 if ambient temp is not near freezing, especially in a motor with more mileage. Brand-wise, use Kendall if you can get it. Can't get it here in AZ for some reason. YMMV Joe</div></div> Can't get Kendall? That sucks. It really is the best non synthetic. I was green before it meant hugging trees.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: hStiglitz</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Writng as a Racing Engine Machinist with 18 yrs combined experience at 2 World Class Engine shops I will share what each of the owners would have recommended. NEVER run synthetic oil in a flat tappet cam motor, provides NO point-contact protection at the tappet / cam lobe interface. Use 20/50 if ambient temp is not near freezing, especially in a motor with more mileage. Brand-wise, use Kendall if you can get it. Can't get it here in AZ for some reason. YMMV Joe</div></div> Can't get Kendall? That sucks. It really is the best non synthetic. I was green before it meant hugging trees.
Re: Corvette oil change?
Stay away from syn oils in older vehicles, i put some in my 78 H/D and after a while i had to put all new gaskets and seals in it the shit was running out of it all over, plus in the heat the engine sounded like a hay bailer above 80 mph. MM
Stay away from syn oils in older vehicles, i put some in my 78 H/D and after a while i had to put all new gaskets and seals in it the shit was running out of it all over, plus in the heat the engine sounded like a hay bailer above 80 mph. MM
