Crimping?

[G19Kev]

So, I tried to search the forum for my question first, and looks like it's been asked before, but for some reason, there's no directory to the posts. I want to know if anyone has experience with crimping, and if it is actually necessary for an auto loader, or is case neck tension suffice? I'm going to be handloading for a DD5v5 6.5cm. From what I understand, actually, I don't quite understand, because there's conflicting info out there, but it's either the recoil, or the force from the action than potentially can cause bullets to seat further down in a case, and apparently it either applies to the actual round being chambered, and/or the bullets waiting in the magazine. If anyone has any experience that confirms, or debunks this, I'd appreciate the feedback, thanks!

 

[Halfnutz]

Lee taper crimp is a decent tool.
I think the consensus is you only roll crimp if the bullet has a cannalure.
A crimp may save you some problem if you dont have a smooth feeding rifle. But then the crimp is more of a bandaid.
I had a LMT .224 Valkyrie that had serious feeding issues with PRI mags at least. I dont think a crimp would have helped.
I'd be surprised if you experienced bullet pull from recoil in an AR.

 

[larryh128]

I've shot quite a large number of 6.5 C rounds from AR-10's. I have never crimped or needed to. If you neck turn to 13 thousand it's more than sufficient to hold a bullet firmly. Never had a round move but my rifles cycle smoothly.

 

[G19Kev]

Cool, thanks guys!

 

[mtrmn]

If you do crimp, don't use the roll crimp built into your seating die. Use either a taper crimp or best of all the Lee Factory Crimp. It's far too easy to over-do the roll crimp and you will collapse the shoulder of the case. This will render the round un-chamberable.