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Critique my steel target design...

L

LVdubbin

Sergeant
Full Member
Minuteman
Jun 27, 2010
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Henderson, NV
I'm going to have a few of these cut for myself and a couple of local shooters as well. I'm looking for something a little more realistic than the IPSC targets. Let me know what you guys think.

These would be 3/8" AR500 steel and cut with a water jet.


 
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Why spend the extra money for ears and a neck?

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I537 using Tapatalk
 
I might bring the mounting holes closer, so I could make a smaller mounting bracket.
 
I've spoke with my water jet guy and he says the ears aren't going to impact the cost much, if at all. I mostly added them to reduce drop waste.
 
Most of the guys out here hang their targets from chains so I figured the wider holes would be better.

Where else do you think would work for both applications?
 
I would not put the head on at all; lots of plate waste once cut. A iron worker friend of mine made me 6 plates out of 3" plate he had from a job. Free metal just payed for his time. They are square and work very well other then they weigh something like 60 lbs each.

Rich L
 
richidaho said:
I would not put the head on at all; lots of plate waste once cut. A iron worker friend of mine made me 6 plates out of 3" plate he had from a job. Free metal just payed for his time. They are square and work very well other then they weigh something like 60 lbs each.

Rich L
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I disagree. The head is a smaller target that can be used. In effect, you get two targets for the price of one. That way, you can call head shots only and it is smaller and more challenging. If you lose the head, then you only have one target.
 
NevadaZielmeister said:
I disagree. The head is a smaller target that can be used. In effect, you get two targets for the price of one. That way, you can call head shots only and it is smaller and more challenging. If you lose the head, then you only have one target.
Click to expand...

I agree with this guy, get those targets out a ways, sometimes a wayward headshot can help decipher where you're at. I've seen way too many over shoots that look under because that's where the hit is spotted.

I guess it depends on how you bought the steel, sheet, or cost per target. If you bought sheet goods, get squares, circles, triangles cut from waste.
 
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LVdubbin said:
I'm going to have a few of these cut for myself and a couple of local shooters as well. I'm looking for something a little more realistic than the IPSC targets. Let me know what you guys think.


Click to expand...


If your going UK range or want "Realistic" go with 1y or 1m waist to top of head. Just my .02.
 
DocUSMCRetired said:
This is what I was thinking. You don't need the ears.
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What about the "Mike Tyson" stage where you have to punch the target in the face then bite his ear off? +5 points for a first bite ear removal....
 
It wouldn't be IPSC size, but I believe the ranging portion of MSR reticles is calibrated for a 1m tall target and 1/2 m shoulder to shoulder (the typical distance from crotch of pants to top of head for height). If you made it this size it would be a good to practice ranging with the lower right MSR reticle quadrant. Might want to check up on my numbers but from memory that is what I'm getting. Just my .02
 
That would have to be 39" tall...

ahhshoot said:
It wouldn't be IPSC size, but I believe the ranging portion of MSR reticles is calibrated for a 1m tall target and 1/2 m shoulder to shoulder (the typical distance from crotch of pants to top of head for height). If you made it this size it would be a good to practice ranging with the lower right MSR reticle quadrant. Might want to check up on my numbers but from memory that is what I'm getting. Just my .02
Click to expand...
 
LVdubbin said:
That would have to be 39" tall...
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Correct. You would need another 10" on what you have. Not saying you would want to do this or not, just throwing it out there, because when I had a scope with the MSR reticle I thought it would be cool to do a quick-range with the reticle rather than doing the math to figure out distance. If you wanted to save metal, maybe you could have it tapered down to that length. IT would look like a chick in a one-piece, especially if you added some hair to those ears.. but hey, it might make things a little more interesting lol
 
You may also want to consider using strips of conveyor belt, old baler belt, or even old seat belt material to hang your targets. These materials will stand up to several hits and are cheap and easy to replace. It sucks hitting and breaking chain, which will afford you a nice long walk or drive down to fix it.
 
tactic-als said:
Why spend the extra money for ears and a neck?

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I537 using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

With any competent fab shop adding ears to a CAD drawing is going to take about 1 minute of time and the waterjet does the rest. It would be crazy if they bumped up the price more than $1 for the ears.
 
34300e84.jpg


Here is what I plan on hanging it off of. The chains seem to help carry the "ding" sound better.
 
I think that looks really good! Make the target the way you like it, If its premium AR500, It will last a lifetime!!

I would put the holes a little closer and mount it on a T POST bracket. That way it stands about 4-5 feet off the ground, Making it more realistic!!

Good luck,

Jake
 
And the cost of a big piece of steel like that is going to be an investment anyway, so go ahead and spend the few more dollars for the ears and features you want. IMHO,

A target like that would run around $199 from us, Make sure you are spending under that, or else save some money and get it from me!!:D
 
Thanks for the input JC Steel! Yeah I wasn't quite prepared for the high price of AR500 steel, sure is expensive! If this doesn't work out I will be giving you a call.
 
Looks very cool, but also very heavy. I made the mistake when I bought my 66% IPSC targets in getting the thicker steel. My problem is we usually have to hike out to set them boogers up, and between multiple plates, driver, and posts--it sucks.

My future goal it to learn to read the wind better so I can shoot at 3" plate at a 1000. Ok, ok, I know, not realistic--I can make due carrying 5" plates without whining too much.
 
Before you go whole Hog on changing size. You need to think of the weight of your target.

The heavier it is the less exciting it is to drag it out and set it up.
 
Make it 20 inches wide. The average human is 20 inches wide...
Ditch the ears.... Keep it simple.
 
Never had a steel target do you need to use a certain type of material? And what is the shortest distance you can set up steel plates without worrying about ricochet?
 
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