Custom Barrels

[cfwii1979]

I plan on eventually, shooting myself into PRS.
Should i spend the bucks now on a barrel? I mean they arent THAT much. Ive got a rem 700 sa in a chassis - 5-25x56 FFP scope best ive got/could afford - Im sorry if i get some "use the search button" But there are so many different answers on what way to go.
Should i look into this "trueing" my action biz (clearly im a noob) or invest in a barrel since my rem is still rocking the 20" that came with it.
Also, on barrels - i was thinking 28 or 30" leaving about 2" for a brake, straight contour, stainless steel in and out (no chrome moly, as a gunsmith i can tell you it just basically dissappears after the first shot and ive never ONCE seen a uniform application. Patchy at best and plenty of uneven spots inside the barrel), I have a .308 should i look into changing caliber now or stick with it? I like the .308 but im not afraid of change. Staying with .308 id want ... what 1-10 twist? Flat crown for my brake, is that right? Do you actually crown your brakes?
I was looking at mcgowan for info and they seem decent but i am hunting for brand/maker's even if its a guy in his basement someone knows - if hes the man thats who im looking for. Oh, also (edit) I suppose this is where i ask about muzzle brakes. Ive got a witt machine custom threaded on the way for my remington for now but i know theres better. Any suggestions and mind you im considering what to do about my custom rifle crown depending on brake choice.
Sorry if this is repetitive guys really i am, i know how annoying and what a turn off it can be for vets on a board to see the same crap over and over.
Oh, entry rifle rests... should i go big early like a seb or break in light like a caldwell?
Anything im forgetting?
Thanks in advance even if you just tell me to "eat it noob". Just be creative and funny about it .

 

[TheOfficeT-Rex]

Don’t buy anything before your first PRS match. Ok, maybe a game changer. But you can borrow everything else. I haven’t met a single squad mate who wasn’t extremely willing to share. Just tell them you’re new before the first stage.

If you decide you like the match, and you want to go full PRS race, you’ll need some kind of 6. Do you reload? That will drive a lot of caliber options.

You don’t need a rest for PRS. You will need a bipod if you don’t already have one. I prefer not going cheap there - Atlas, TBAC, skypod are all popular, hold their value, and move rifle to rifle.

…and I think you’re confused between “chromoly steel barrels” and “chrome lined barrels.” I don’t think it’s something you have to worry about yet.

 

[FisherT&C]

Look at Osprey or Preferred Barrels if you are budget minded. Paying for a good barrel saves time and money, load development is a lot easier with a premium barrel chambered in an efficient cartridge. Crown geometry doesn't matter as long as it's cut concentric. Use a self timing brake and no we don't crown muzzle brakes. A 700 usually at least needs the lugs lapped, truing it up wouldn't hurt. A solid bipod is a must, ckyepod in my opinion.

 

[OREGUN]

IF your fundamentals are immaculate, you can shoot a .308 just as well as anything. However, far more shooters go with 6.5 or 6mm cartridges for the reduced recoil, improved performance in the wind, and ease of reloading. Either case will run in your action just fine (same bolt face). Because you will have to send it off to get the barrel put on, you can spend extra for “truing” if you want. It is unnecessary for PRS type shooting though. A factory R700 with a boutique barrel will shoot just fine for our purposes (this is not benchrest).

I would go with 6BR, 6BRA, or 6Dasher. Plan on barrel life to around 2000-2500 rounds depending on what happens. You could also run 6.5CM and get a little better barrel life. The recent AG cup was won by 6.5CM. It is a great cartridge.

26” is all the longer on the barrel. This is positional shooting not F-Class. 30” is way long and you need portability not length. Threaded at the muzzle (5/8-24 is kind of standard for this size cartridge). Don’t worry about special crowning. A self timing brake that you install yourself like the Ace Precision or Area 419 or Hawkins offerings is what you want on the end. Nothing wrong with Witt Machine either.

No need for a rest. SEB and such are tools for F-class. You need a bipod (Ckye-pod is my choice) and a bag like a Wiebad Mini Fortune Cookie or Armageddon Gear Schmedium Gamechanger.

If you don’t have a guy, and you can give us a “region” that still allows for you to maintain “opsec”, what with your classified location, we can point you toward a gunsmith. You can’t go wrong calling Southern Precision Rifle, bugholes.com, down in Tennessee. They can sell you the right barrel and do the chambering and fitting and they are terrific to work with. Same with Short Action Customs in Ohio, 5x5 Precision in Michigan (I think), Black Canyon Customs in Denver, Altus in Florida, Preece-Precision in Utah, and a hundred others.

 

[LuvDog]

Get a remage from Northland. Order up a Criterion and one of their barrel nuts in 6.5CM and go shoot. Plenty of factory ammo available and you'll be fine.

 

[cfwii1979]

Don’t buy anything before your first PRS match. Ok, maybe a game changer. But you can borrow everything else. I haven’t met a single squad mate who wasn’t extremely willing to share. Just tell them you’re new before the first stage.

If you decide you like the match, and you want to go full PRS race, you’ll need some kind of 6. Do you reload? That will drive a lot of caliber options.

You don’t need a rest for PRS. You will need a bipod if you don’t already have one. I prefer not going cheap there - Atlas, TBAC, skypod are all popular, hold their value, and move rifle to rifle.

…and I think you’re confused between “chromoly steel barrels” and “chrome lined barrels.” I don’t think it’s something you have to worry about yet.

You may be correct as I am thinking of lined. You're saying they mean in entirety? Made of chrome Molly??

 

[cfwii1979]

Get a remage from Northland. Order up a Criterion and one of their barrel nuts in 6.5CM and go shoot. Plenty of factory ammo available and you'll be fine.

I was going to ask about the remages I've been seeing. Need to research a bit more but they sound... weird.

 oregun Great fkn info much Appreciated. The nature of my current work is such that I can tell you I'm in Carolina without getting chewed out. Appreciate the store to check out and so much barrel info. I was clearly confusing f class with prs. I don't want to offend, I get it everything has its fans, but Fclass seems a little... blah. Thanks for squaring me away, sir.

Got some reading and experience to be done and gained and I'll be back with more to ask I'm sure. Thanks again guys. If this is an accurate sample of the people on this board, I'm very glad to have joined.

 

[TheOfficeT-Rex]

You may be correct as I am thinking of lined. You're saying they mean in entirety? Made of chrome Molly??

FAQs | Bartlein Barrels

www.bartleinbarrels.com

Shoot some positional and a match or two before you revisit changing your barrel.

 

[Long Range 338]

The Rem 700 is a decent starting point and you would benefit from a better barrel but long term you are going to want to upgrade to a better action. There are a good number of options below $1k and you can get pre fit barrels to your heart's content. Most of these actions will fit right into anything for Rem 700 so your options to upgrade or customize are as good as it gets. Mack Bros, American Rifle, Bighorn, Aero Precision are just a few that offer great features for great price. Of course you can always spend more and go with something like Impact or Defiance but you don't need to.

If you decide to upgrade your Rem 700, I would start with a trigger upgrade, then a barrel, then stock/chassis, then optic (assuming your optic isn't currently hindering your progress).

Even the best gear won't make you a pro shooter, even if it makes you sexier! Practice and more practice with your current gear until its the limiting factor is going to make the biggest difference.

 

[cfwii1979]

Don’t buy anything before your first PRS match. Ok, maybe a game changer. But you can borrow everything else. I haven’t met a single squad mate who wasn’t extremely willing to share. Just tell them you’re new before the first stage.

If you decide you like the match, and you want to go full PRS race, you’ll need some kind of 6. Do you reload? That will drive a lot of caliber options.

You don’t need a rest for PRS. You will need a bipod if you don’t already have one. I prefer not going cheap there - Atlas, TBAC, skypod are all popular, hold their value, and move rifle to rifle.

…and I think you’re confused between “chromoly steel barrels” and “chrome lined barrels.” I don’t think it’s something you have to worry about yet.

TREX, also I do have the complete setup to begin rifle reloading. I only have shotgun loading experience by the tens of thousands but none on rifle. I've got an rcbs crusher master set complete with dies. Just need brass, powder and lead. I've got a few reference books and my school texts as well (sdi) so I think I can get there with help. I've also got a brass shaker and media. What type of bullets specifically do yall load for prs?

 

[cfwii1979]

The Rem 700 is a decent starting point and you would benefit from a better barrel but long term you are going to want to upgrade to a better action. There are a good number of options below $1k and you can get pre fit barrels to your heart's content. Most of these actions will fit right into anything for Rem 700 so your options to upgrade or customize are as good as it gets. Mack Bros, American Rifle, Bighorn, Aero Precision are just a few that offer great features for great price. Of course you can always spend more and go with something like Impact or Defiance but you don't need to.

If you decide to upgrade your Rem 700, I would start with a trigger upgrade, then a barrel, then stock/chassis, then optic (assuming your optic isn't currently hindering your progress).

Even the best gear won't make you a pro shooter, even if it makes you sexier! Practice and more practice with your current gear until its the limiting factor is going to make the biggest difference.

Thank ya sir! Soon as I'm ready for a barrel I'll be sure to bother yall again with my extremely technical noob questions lol. Take care. Oh n I have a trigger tech single stage planned. Flat n adjustable. Thoughts?

 

[Long Range 338]

Thank ya sir! Soon as I'm ready for a barrel I'll be sure to bother yall again with my extremely technical noob questions lol. Take care. Oh n I have a trigger tech single stage planned. Flat n adjustable. Thoughts?

TT makes a fine trigger. I lean towards 2 stage triggers but that's personal preference.

 

[Smokin7s]

Go to the first match before you spend a dime just buy a game changer or fortune cookie bag and take some Binos. Whatever you think you need before you go will be different when you get home. Ask lots of questions just not right before somebody is about to shoot be clear that you’re new and don’t be the “I know” guy. Make a list when you get home. A trued 700 with a good m24 barrel in 6creed will be plenty good to start off.

 

[cfwii1979]

TT makes a fine trigger. I lean towards 2 stage triggers but that's personal preference.

Figured I'd stick with what I know. Do you mind describing the advantages of a two stage? Is it like a flint lock where stage 1 lightens and prepares a low weight 2nd pull?

 

[Taylorbok]

You'll need rifle, ammo, bipod, bag, binos if you have all that use what you have and try out other peoples stuff as you go and upgrade what you like.

Switching to a different barrel/ cartridge can happen later, there is definitely room for improvement there but I'd say instead of spending any money on the Rem 700 just build a whole new rifle suited to what you are doing.

I'm curious how you call yourself a gunsmith and don't know anything about truing actions, barrel materials, muzzle brakes, triggers?

 

[TheOfficeT-Rex]

I'm curious how you call yourself a gunsmith and don't know anything about truing actions, barrel materials, muzzle brakes, triggers?

He said it was SDI. Checks.

 

[kcsmith]

I have everything you need for 6.5cm

 

[Long Range 338]

Figured I'd stick with what I know. Do you mind describing the advantages of a two stage? Is it like a flint lock where stage 1 lightens and prepares a low weight 2nd pull?

I'm sure there are others that can better explain this but here goes:

Many PRS shooters are running single stage triggers set under 1lb. I find this to be a dangerous setting IMO. Let's say I'm moving around excitedly on a stage and my heart rate is up - I then get into position and am now trying to use fine motor control to locate/feel/prep my finger on the trigger and now I inadvertently brush the trigger with enough weight to discharge the rifle. Not taking into account the possible safety implications I am now disqualified for negligent discharge.

With a 2 stage trigger - lets say 3lbs, each stage is 1.5lbs and now after movement I take up the first stage and am ready to fire. Firing cycle is very deliberate and not going to happen by accident. I've actually moved over to 2 stage triggers even in hunting rifles for the same reason. What if its cold and I don't feel my finger contact the trigger shoe?

Again, personal preference but my preferred triggers are 2 stage.

 

[Smokin7s]

I'm sure there are others that can better explain this but here goes:

Many PRS shooters are running single stage triggers set under 1lb. I find this to be a dangerous setting IMO. Let's say I'm moving around excitedly on a stage and my heart rate is up - I then get into position and am now trying to use fine motor control to locate/feel/prep my finger on the trigger and now I inadvertently brush the trigger with enough weight to discharge the rifle. Not taking into account the possible safety implications I am now disqualified for negligent discharge.

With a 2 stage trigger - lets say 3lbs, each stage is 1.5lbs and now after movement I take up the first stage and am ready to fire. Firing cycle is very deliberate and not going to happen by accident. I've actually moved over to 2 stage triggers even in hunting rifles for the same reason. What if its cold and I don't feel my finger contact the trigger shoe?

Again, personal preference but my preferred triggers are 2 stage.

Your bolt is supposed to be open until you’re on target so if you ND while you’re moving that was your first mistake

 

[OREGUN]

Single stage at 6 oz all day for the win. Reticle on target before the bolt goes closed. At race pace and with time dilation, there’s a lifetime between my finger touching the trigger and the firing pin dropping.

 

[Kfive73]

You mentioned you have some reloading gear. If you get to the point of wanting to reload for matches, just get the good stuff. Berger bullets and Lapua or alpha brass. When I first started reloading (long before shooting local matches) I’d just reload Remington brass. Don’t waste your time on sub par components. Good bullets, good brass, and good dies will make life easier. And don’t over complicate it

As stated above, what you think you need before a match will be different from what you think you need after a match. This hobby is expensive, don’t waste money trying to outsmart the crowd with different gear. Make a mental note of what people are using at a match and follow that trend

 

[Long Range 338]

Your bolt is supposed to be open until you’re on target so if you ND while you’re moving that was your first mistake

I never mentioned the bolt..... That was the obvious part, I was explaining the reasoning for 2 stage trigger. Per OP request.

 

[cfwii1979]

You'll need rifle, ammo, bipod, bag, binos if you have all that use what you have and try out other peoples stuff as you go and upgrade what you like.

Switching to a different barrel/ cartridge can happen later, there is definitely room for improvement there but I'd say instead of spending any money on the Rem 700 just build a whole new rifle suited to what you are doing.

I'm curious how you call yourself a gunsmith and don't know anything about truing actions, barrel materials, muzzle brakes, triggers?

I've never trued an action, never lathes a barrel and most smith's outsource that anyway but materials what'd I miss? The chrome lining vs build material? Muzzle brake I know plenty about but I've never had to put one on an 11deg inset for instance so I'm not sure how that'd be done. Triggers I know plenty but mostly how to take a stock 1911 trigger assembly at 6lbs and slay that sumbitch down to 1.8lbs with no follow through and timing to match. Ya as I said in my bio I'm a pistol guy but I'm also a Smith with less than a year at what is a part time biz. Speaking of brakes I also milled a sweet custom bushing brake with an inline ported barrel that is just a tack driver. Tangents... I'm sorry but if there's anything I can answer for you please don't worry about asking and although I'm definitely a little gut punched by the paranoia or haze it's all good. Water off a ducks back.

 

[Smokin7s]

I never mentioned the bolt..... That was the obvious part, I was explaining the reasoning for 2 stage trigger. Per OP request.

Right but if you don’t close your bolt till you’re on target you’re not gonna ND “moving around excitedly on stage”

Single stage triggers set light are fine if you’re not comfortable with where your trigger is dry fire more.

 

[Taylorbok]

I've never trued an action, never lathes a barrel and most smith's outsource that anyway but materials what'd I miss? The chrome lining vs build material? Muzzle brake I know plenty about but I've never had to put one on an 11deg inset for instance so I'm not sure how that'd be done. Triggers I know plenty but mostly how to take a stock 1911 trigger assembly at 6lbs and slay that sumbitch down to 1.8lbs with no follow through and timing to match. Ya as I said in my bio I'm a pistol guy but I'm also a Smith with less than a year at what is a part time biz. Speaking of brakes I also milled a sweet custom bushing brake with an inline ported barrel that is just a tack driver. Tangents... I'm sorry but if there's anything I can answer for you please don't worry about asking and although I'm definitely a little gut punched by the paranoia or haze it's all good. Water off a ducks back.

I kind of forgot those kinds of smiths exist that just repair and tune fire arms. I'm used to smiths who turn barrel tenons, chamber barrels, true actions and install muzzle brakes. Carry on.

 

[oldrifleman]

I'm sure there are others that can better explain this but here goes:

Many PRS shooters are running single stage triggers set under 1lb. I find this to be a dangerous setting IMO. Let's say I'm moving around excitedly on a stage and my heart rate is up - I then get into position and am now trying to use fine motor control to locate/feel/prep my finger on the trigger and now I inadvertently brush the trigger with enough weight to discharge the rifle. Not taking into account the possible safety implications I am now disqualified for negligent discharge.

With a 2 stage trigger - lets say 3lbs, each stage is 1.5lbs and now after movement I take up the first stage and am ready to fire. Firing cycle is very deliberate and not going to happen by accident. I've actually moved over to 2 stage triggers even in hunting rifles for the same reason. What if its cold and I don't feel my finger contact the trigger shoe?

Again, personal preference but my preferred triggers are 2 stage.

I am also a light 2 stage person. I like the staging that the first stage provides and then the wall that just breaks with 8-10 oz pressure. My rimfire BR rig has Anschutz 5018 set at 6oz and 6 oz and just love it, I shoot better with that than any of my others. It gives me the perception of more control. I have single stage triggers as well and shoot them relatively well. I suspect it is what you learn to trust.

 

[Long Range 338]

Right but if you don’t close your bolt till you’re on target you’re not gonna ND “moving around excitedly on stage”

Single stage triggers set light are fine if you’re not comfortable with where your trigger is dry fire more.

Your reading comprehension is lacking. Reread my post, nothing was said about moving around with a hot rifle or making any stupid, sloppy mistakes. I was referencing movement that would get the heart rate up and then settling in position and not having the fine motor control that one might have when not under stress.

If you love single stage triggers, cool story. Rock on. That's why I stated its my personal preference.

 

[cfwii1979]

I kind of forgot those kinds of smiths exist that just repair and tune fire arms. I'm used to smiths who turn barrel tenons, chamber barrels, true actions and install muzzle brakes. Carry on.

Taylor yr all good man, no worries..

I kind of forgot those kinds of smiths exist that just repair and tune fire arms. I'm used to smiths who turn barrel tenons, chamber barrels, true actions and install muzzle brakes. Carry on.

Hey man I'm glad we squashed it fast like men. We are a crazy species aren't we? Lmao. You seem like a smart dude I def don't wanna make an info source na good dude an enemy on day one. I really respect that answer you posted. Remind me of myself. Have a great nite from the socialist capital of the east coast... Massachusetts
You know you do make me consider my position. As I mostly make my money hot rodding pistols with custom hand work with sand and stone as well as at times just installing things the guy couldn't bother reading the instructions for.. but hey if he wants to pay me 100 bucks to change his grips rock on! Lol...

 

[cfwii1979]

Here it is as of this evening... delivery day.. came home from my wife's CT scan to some packages. Day turned out pretty sweet!

 

[Smokin7s]

Single stage at 6 oz all day for the win. Reticle on target before the bolt goes closed. At race pace and with time dilation, there’s a lifetime between my finger touching the trigger and the firing pin dropping.

No you gotta have a 4 pound 2 stage cause fine motor skills and heart rate or something

 

[cfwii1979]

No you gotta have a 4 pound 2 stage cause fine motor skills and heart rate or something

Ninja breathing rate lowering skill also necessary, fool enemy make think dead... or be more accurate.