Re: Custom FAL
I wrote this years ago in another (FalFiles) forum, project gun was my second FAL then, Austrian STG-58. I quote as it was, did some typo corrections and added mods I forgot to mention then:
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Finally got some time to try STG58 with new Lothar Walther barrel.
Figured that 1,5MOA would be realistic group size to except, but 185 Scenars shot 1MOA with 10 shots.
Best 5-shot was (in pic) with 168 Scenars, but after 10 shots group opened to 1.1 - 1.2MOA.
Very happy with it anyway. All bullets with molybdenum jacket.
Suppressor is BR-Tuote Reflex T8, brass Lapua, Federal 210 primers. VV powders.
COL to maximum FAL metric magazine. Harris BRM-S, Scope S&B PMII 3-12x56.
Also tried Lapua 123gr FMJ Trainers, +2MOA. Lapua 170gr D46 same thing.
Plan is to test 10g Scenars as well, and other 168gr Scenar loads. Had some (DIY trigger mods) trigger problems during test those lighter Scenars, didnt get best out of it.
Stick
168 Scenar, 5shots, 100m.
185 Scenar, 10shots, 100m.
There are stories about accuracy problems when FAL is fed from mag. Decided to shoot all tests mag-fed, way I will shoot rifle anyway. Also, gas port was open whole time.
Link below explains lot:
Handguard is DIY, 3mm thick aluminum. Sandblasted and anodized black.
Guard is attached to big "nut" which actually supports upper receiver too: Barrel thread is extended outside upper, and that nut is tightened against upper. Dont know how much it helps, but it gives some additional support/stiffness anyway. Bit like in AR:s, but nut is completely outside receiver.
Chamber is standard 308, except 168 Scenar (with max magazine COL) gives very light groove touch.
Took calculated risk with headspace: Even when chamber is empty, when bolt is closed, endplay is practically zero. Wasn't sure if it will give problems or not, but seems to cycle normally. But its tight, if bolt isn't released from way back, bolt wont close..still cycles just fine, even when rifle is pretty hot after few mags.
Not much room for sand there tho.
Also, tried to eliminate all play between upper and lower: I made thick washer to replace missing (laws here) safety sear.
When takedown bolt is tightened, upper/lower can not be tilted too easily.
Casted some hot-glue under upper locking link too for same reason: to prevent upper/lower (sideways) movement between shots.
Cut about 2/3 off from gas tube, wanted to minimize barrel twist. I think that all late-model STG:s used shorter tube anyway.
Drilled hole through rear iron sight pedestal and threaded it. Its for metric Allen head bolt there, works as a back latch for a second lockup point for the rear of the upper additional support. Or that is purpose anyway.
Dust cover is DSA glued to upper with Loctite bearing glue.
Did trigger job with diamond file, and replaced trigger spring pin with stainless threaded 4mm dia. TIG-welding rod. With adjustable nut in rod, got rid of loooong over-travel.
Some modification/project pics here:
http://jarno.fotopic.net/c1135988.html <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: GunTech</div><div class="ubbcode-body">JL, did you use an Israeli HB gas block? Great shooting FAL. </div></div>
Plan was to make custom for thicker barrel, but decided to risk and use thinner muzzle end after block.
Didn't have time to find Israeli, and gunsmith was too busy to make one. So, block is therefore standard STG58.
Luckily, barrel is good and POI doesn't seem to shift almost at all when rifle is hot.
But barrel it pretty thick from receiver to gasblock. Its fluted, also under suppressor.
P.S.
Otherwise rifle is original, just as plan was to keep whole stick when I bought it....
