I have a extra 24" barrel and was thinking about cutting to 20" and getting it threaded for a can . would you cut it or just get it threaded ?
- Thread starter swordfish
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Re: cutting barrel for can
If .308 I would cut it down to 20" and then thread for can. The can will add back roughly 8" to the overall length.
If .308 I would cut it down to 20" and then thread for can. The can will add back roughly 8" to the overall length.
Re: cutting barrel for can
308 AW. Thanks
308 AW. Thanks
Re: cutting barrel for can
I'd cut to 18' or even 16 and thread it. It is an extra barrel, presumably for use in certain activities. If you own a suppressor it is real nice to have it on the shortened barrel.
I'd cut to 18' or even 16 and thread it. It is an extra barrel, presumably for use in certain activities. If you own a suppressor it is real nice to have it on the shortened barrel.
Re: cutting barrel for can
For most subsonic rounds you try to have the shortest barrel possible as you are usually spitting the heavyiest bullets you can get so you can get as far out as possible with the best terminal ballistics, you must ensure the twist of your barrel and the intended bullet and length will be stable enough.
For instance my second Favorite round to shoot is the Lapua B416 200GR SUBSONIC it requires a barrel shorter than 16" or less than 400mm barrel (which I have gone to 16.25") and a twist rate faster than 1:7.875 or 1 in 200mm which I have gone to 1:8..
I find that out to 500 the bullet is still stable in its flight path while at a very high degree downward but it is not key-hole-ing or yawing I still get vertical holes but at a very significant angle (as expected).
For most subsonic rounds you try to have the shortest barrel possible as you are usually spitting the heavyiest bullets you can get so you can get as far out as possible with the best terminal ballistics, you must ensure the twist of your barrel and the intended bullet and length will be stable enough.
For instance my second Favorite round to shoot is the Lapua B416 200GR SUBSONIC it requires a barrel shorter than 16" or less than 400mm barrel (which I have gone to 16.25") and a twist rate faster than 1:7.875 or 1 in 200mm which I have gone to 1:8..
I find that out to 500 the bullet is still stable in its flight path while at a very high degree downward but it is not key-hole-ing or yawing I still get vertical holes but at a very significant angle (as expected).
Re: cutting barrel for can
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: 338LAPUASLAPU</div><div class="ubbcode-body">For most subsonic rounds you try to have the shortest barrel possible as you are usually spitting the heavyiest bullets you can get so you can get as far out as possible with the best terminal ballistics, you must ensure the twist of your barrel and the intended bullet and length will be stable enough.
For instance my second Favorite round to shoot is the Lapua B416 200GR SUBSONIC it requires a barrel shorter than 16" or less than 400mm barrel (which I have gone to 16.25") and a twist rate faster than 1:7.875 or 1 in 200mm which I have gone to 1:8..
I find that out to 500 the bullet is still stable in its flight path while at a very high degree downward but it is not key-hole-ing or yawing I still get vertical holes but at a very significant angle (as expected). </div></div>
Just because he's running a suppressor doesn't mean he's shooting subsonic - which the OP never mentioned.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: 338LAPUASLAPU</div><div class="ubbcode-body">For most subsonic rounds you try to have the shortest barrel possible as you are usually spitting the heavyiest bullets you can get so you can get as far out as possible with the best terminal ballistics, you must ensure the twist of your barrel and the intended bullet and length will be stable enough.
For instance my second Favorite round to shoot is the Lapua B416 200GR SUBSONIC it requires a barrel shorter than 16" or less than 400mm barrel (which I have gone to 16.25") and a twist rate faster than 1:7.875 or 1 in 200mm which I have gone to 1:8..
I find that out to 500 the bullet is still stable in its flight path while at a very high degree downward but it is not key-hole-ing or yawing I still get vertical holes but at a very significant angle (as expected). </div></div>
Just because he's running a suppressor doesn't mean he's shooting subsonic - which the OP never mentioned.
Re: cutting barrel for can
I found the shorter barrels to have less POI shift, given the same contour. The stiffer they are, the less the added weight of the suppressor will change the harmonics. 18" to 20" is my recommendation.
I found the shorter barrels to have less POI shift, given the same contour. The stiffer they are, the less the added weight of the suppressor will change the harmonics. 18" to 20" is my recommendation.
