- Thread starter Pharmshot
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Cutting Case Foam
I recently cut my cases foam with a pocket knife. Left it with pretty jagged cuts. What is the best tool to use to cut out foam to fit your rifle and gear snuggly in the case?
www.snipershide.com I used an electric kitchen knife, with mixed results. I didn't cut through it square so the cut doesn't look great. I'll try a sharpened filet knife next time.
Turkey knife all day
Hot wire cutter
I made one of these and it works great. Trace your gun or whatever on poster board paper then cut those out and run the hot wire against them for a template.
The arm on mine is a little short, as in I'm limited to like a foot and a half off the edge of the foam for cuts, so I end up having to flip stuff around more than I'd like, but still makes way cleaner cuts than a fillet knife or box knife.
do those work for you?....ive never had a razor blade last more than 2-3 cuts in foam before going dull....the foam has always been super dulling to blades for me for some reason10 bucks
ive always had to use a turkey carver.
you can also check to see if anyone does laser engraving/ cutting....i know cutting foam with a laser is getting more popular.
Cutting Case Foam
I recently cut my cases foam with a pocket knife. Left it with pretty jagged cuts. What is the best tool to use to cut out foam to fit your rifle and gear snuggly in the case?
www.snipershide.com yes, for long straight cuts, a bigger version works better. for kaizen layered foam, it is easier to cut to a certain depth.
More of a dick beauty contest.
This what what I use. I trace the cutouts on a piece of cardboard, then cut it out for a template. I have a large needle to poke the wire through in the perfect spot. I can then split the cut out piece for the bottom and it fits perfectly. I suggest closed cell foam. It doesn’t absorb moisture, cuts better, holds up better and looks great! I use 3M adhesive to glue everything in. I’m sure their are lots of ways. This is just mine. I hope it is helpful.
Fillet knife people are right. All others are wrong. I mean, sure the heat cutters work, but they also give a heat-cut edge so it's less gentle foam, usually. Also takes some time to figure out the right temp for each foam.
Also, avoid trying to cut 90° corners and NEVER cut blind holes. Build the stuff up from bits, and glue it together. This is how factories make foam liners, so follow their lead. Most contact cements and on Camie spray glue (I forget which number) will work on foam without melting it.
I have had a couple sensitive item cases destroyed by stupid people so had to reproduce complex shapes, got used to it so keep scrap foam and make little foam liners /constantly/ now. Just in the last two weeks added some foam to an ANVIS case to make a thermal fit better, and seized a Pelican case the wife wasn't using, made a better suppressor case for myself. Cutting and glueing to get the shapes I need, takes minutes.
Although cutting to the exact profile of your gun is pretty, it is harder to get right and not necessary for protection. You can cut straight pieces that the rifle bumps into, fits neatly inside, and still doesn't move at all then. Keep in mind, so even if you want to do contour cutting, if some part is going to be hard or is giving you fits (like contouring around the bottom of the stock or pistol grip) give up and leave a squared-off gap there and it will work fine, and look like it's on purpose.
Do also remember to leave some room to pick it up and insert it. If too tight it will pucker oddly, and you will have no place to grab the thing so will have your your dirty fingers shoving into the foam, cause it to deform, show the dirt eventually. Remember to leave a little (or big) cutout where you would grab it normally.
Also, avoid trying to cut 90° corners and NEVER cut blind holes. Build the stuff up from bits, and glue it together. This is how factories make foam liners, so follow their lead. Most contact cements and on Camie spray glue (I forget which number) will work on foam without melting it.
I have had a couple sensitive item cases destroyed by stupid people so had to reproduce complex shapes, got used to it so keep scrap foam and make little foam liners /constantly/ now. Just in the last two weeks added some foam to an ANVIS case to make a thermal fit better, and seized a Pelican case the wife wasn't using, made a better suppressor case for myself. Cutting and glueing to get the shapes I need, takes minutes.
Although cutting to the exact profile of your gun is pretty, it is harder to get right and not necessary for protection. You can cut straight pieces that the rifle bumps into, fits neatly inside, and still doesn't move at all then. Keep in mind, so even if you want to do contour cutting, if some part is going to be hard or is giving you fits (like contouring around the bottom of the stock or pistol grip) give up and leave a squared-off gap there and it will work fine, and look like it's on purpose.
Do also remember to leave some room to pick it up and insert it. If too tight it will pucker oddly, and you will have no place to grab the thing so will have your your dirty fingers shoving into the foam, cause it to deform, show the dirt eventually. Remember to leave a little (or big) cutout where you would grab it normally.
Demo how to cut foam in rifle case from Optics Planet
https://youtu.be/mXhT7WtIsTg
www.snipershide.com Tag
I use a scroll saw with a spiral blade. I draw an outline on the back in reverse and then flip it over to hide the marker. I can cut pretty complex shapes if I take my time. Scroll saws aren’t the most common tool in a shop, but if you have any friends into woodworking they might have one.
So what happens when you switch scopes or upgrade to an atlas bipod? Dang it, I gotta re do the foam...
