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Cz 457 vs tikka T1x for precision 22

Tikkaguy

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Aug 16, 2020
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Seeing what people’s opinion is on the cz 457 vs tikka T1x for a plinking/ comp 22. Thinking of selling my bbl 10/22 in krg bravo. Any other guns to look at in that price range ? Not a Bergara fan. Thanks.
 
The T1x won the NRL22 Championship for 2023 season. The CZ 457 has a better aftermarket parts availability. Both will be a great rifle either way. Tith a screen name of Tikkaguy I'd say your mind is 3/4 the way leaning to the T1x no matter what!!
 
Haven't had a T1x yet, so can't comment about those, but I DO have a pair of 457s

Started with a BMR but realized that that little, sweet-shooting little rifle wasn't the right tool for the PRS job. Got an At-One and fat fingered the web order and ended up with something closer, but still not quite right. Then I found a non-MTR Varmint that's a lot closer, but wish it had a threaded barrel so I can practice in my back yard.

Both are in KRG Bravos. The At=One has a suppressor on it to practice with.

Lots of 457s on the line at MARS matches I've been to, so if you're having mag issues, etc there are people with spares to borrow. Not so much with Tikkas or Savages, etc

Both my 457s are more accurate since I've tightened the nut that was loose behind the trigger.

M
 
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I've had/have both.

I got a 457 Varmint for my son. Put it in an XLR Element 3.0 chassis with a full weight kit and it shoots great. It's not super picky about ammo. Put an Area419 30 MOA rail on it, and swapped the trigger spring with a YoDave. That's all it needed. Action is super smooth, fit and finish is great.

I liked it so much that I decided to get a T1x for myself. Put it in an identical XLR Element 3.0 chassis with the full weight kit. Ditto on the Area419 rail, trigger spring, etc. Set it up basically identical to the CZ.

Sold that Tikka after a couple of range sessions. It was nice, but never felt as nice as the CZ. I think the lighter barrel just played with my mind. It shot well, but never out shot the CZ. I think if I didn't have the CZ then I probably would have been fine with it.

I sold the Tikka and picked up a Vudoo for myself since I wanted a lefty bolt anyway and the Tikka and CZ couldn't be found in lefty 22lr.

I would put the CZ right up there with my Vudoo.
 
Haven't had a T1x yet, so can't comment about those, but I DO have a pair of 457s

Started with a BMR but realized that that little, sweet-shooting little rifle wasn't the right tool for the PRS job. Got an At-One and fat fingered the web order and ended up with something closer, but still not quite right. Then I found a non-MTR Varmint that's a lot closer, but wish it had a threaded barrel so I can practice in my back yard.

Both are in KRG Bravos. The At=One has a suppressor on it to practice with.

Lots of 457s on the line at MARS matches I've been to, so if you're having mag issues, etc there are people with spares to borrow. Not so much with Tikkas or Savages, etc

Both my 457s are more accurate since I've tightened the nut that was loose behind the trigger.

M
Yeah I like the looks of the 457 varmint but I wanted it threaded!
 
The T1x won the NRL22 Championship for 2023 season. The CZ 457 has a better aftermarket parts availability. Both will be a great rifle either way. Tith a screen name of Tikkaguy I'd say your mind is 3/4 the way leaning to the T1x no matter what!!
I am open to both but I do have a bias haha
 
I've had/have both.

I got a 457 Varmint for my son. Put it in an XLR Element 3.0 chassis with a full weight kit and it shoots great. It's not super picky about ammo. Put an Area419 30 MOA rail on it, and swapped the trigger spring with a YoDave. That's all it needed. Action is super smooth, fit and finish is great.

I liked it so much that I decided to get a T1x for myself. Put it in an identical XLR Element 3.0 chassis with the full weight kit. Ditto on the Area419 rail, trigger spring, etc. Set it up basically identical to the CZ.

Sold that Tikka after a couple of range sessions. It was nice, but never felt as nice as the CZ. I think the lighter barrel just played with my mind. It shot well, but never out shot the CZ. I think if I didn't have the CZ then I probably would have been fine with it.

I sold the Tikka and picked up a Vudoo for myself since I wanted a lefty bolt anyway and the Tikka and CZ couldn't be found in lefty 22lr.

I would put the CZ right up there with my Vudoo.
Yeah the smaller barrel does turn me off the T1x.
 
I'm likely to either find a local guy to thread my barrel or spend money on a different barrel

Haven't decided yet

M
I have a smith that can thread locally. Are 457 barrel swaps easy?
 
They are both very good rimfire rifles and comparable in accuracy in stock form. As far as I know there is much more aftermarket for CZ and the barrels are easily changed and upgrades are readily available. CZ dominates competition. And the wood stocks are more attractive to me. Tikka stocks do interchange with Tikka centerfire rifles. I suppose it depends on what you like and what you want to do.
 
Went to a shop yesterday, handled both. Wasn’t that impressed with the T1x. Cz felt a lot better built. Think I’ll end up with the cz. Probly get the “at one” stock even tho I hate the way they laminated them it’s a bit ugly haha but felt nice
 
I have had both . I liked the CZ a little better . I now do not understand all the praise they get . I tried 3 CZ 22 lr and a Tikka . They all needed tweaking to shoot well .
 
I have had both . I liked the CZ a little better . I now do not understand all the praise they get . I tried 3 CZ 22 lr and a Tikka . They all needed tweaking to shoot well .
Yeah I can imagine that. What tips on the cz?
 
I have a T1X and B14R. The B14R is growing on me.

The T1X does have ejection issues and drops casing in the chamber once in a while. It’s the newer model not the wire type
 
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I had both. I still have the CZ 457.

Believe me when I say I WANTED the Tikka T1X to work out (I'm left handed; wider range of stocks/chassis available)

If you're right handed, get a CZ 457. If you have the itch to go down the rabbit hole spring for the RimX or Vudoo.
 
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They are .22s. IMO they all need tweaking to feed, eject and shoot well. I have had 2 of the 1st Gen T1X and they needed a lot of attention to shoot well. But so did the CZs, Savages, Anschutz and Vudoos that I shoot against. My Vudoo 360 was every bit as bad for needing tweaking to operate and shoot well.
 
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How do the Tikka barrels (16.5T) do at long range (300+yds) ?
 
Went to a shop yesterday, handled both. Wasn’t that impressed with the T1x. Cz felt a lot better built. Think I’ll end up with the cz. Probly get the “at one” stock even tho I hate the way they laminated them it’s a bit ugly haha but felt nice
Not the right stock for PRS. AMHIK

If you're going the CZ route, get something like the non-MTR Varmint and stick it in a chassis. You'll be changing out bits and pieces, so may as well get the least expensive one with the 20" barrel you can, Mine are both in KRG Bravos now. I see a lot of AL chassis systems on the firing line too.

Again, if you're going CZ there are a few things you'll need:

pic rail. DIP made mine, but Area 419 seems to be a better system (and LOTS more $$)

L3i 13rd mags 'cause most of the MARS matches I've shot have been 12rd stages. NRL22? Not so much. IDK about PRS22. I usually shoot the plastic CZ 10-rounders just because. Rifle comes with 1 5-round magazine (based on the 2 I bought new anyway)

If you're putting the rifle in a chassis, you'll want an Anarchy Outdoors extended mag release. Much mo bettah. AMHIK

DIP makes an AL magwell to replace the plastic one in the rife. Not 'needed' but nice to have
 
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They are .22s. IMO they all need tweaking to feed, eject and shoot well. I have had 2 of the 1st Gen T1X and they needed a lot of attention to shoot well. But so did the CZs, Savages, Anschutz and Vudoos that I shoot against. My Vudoo 360 was every bit as bad for needing tweaking to operate and shoot well.
My BMR, and both CZs haven't needed said tweaking.

YMMV

M
 
My son’s CZ has the Area419 30 MOA rail, and the common trigger spring replacement. That all it needed, along with the XLR chassis.

The plastic 10rd mags feed fine. They are small, which can be good or bad… it would be nice if they were AICS sized
 
I use a rebarreled T1X in an ACC for Rimfire PRS. It is competitive, but the CZ is easier to get there. I would buy a CZ next time. I thought I would use the chassis for centerfire also, but that never happened.
 
Murphy Precision’s stainless (or titanium) pic rail is vastly superior to the dip rail (and other aluminum rails that use tiny grub screw to immobilize the rail on the dovetail).

Here’s are Murphy’s brass-tipped screws that hold the rail on. Way better.

1697388243911.png


He can make 0-30moa rails, and I’ll bet he’d do others on a custom basis.

 
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I started with a CZ 455 then got a T1X. later I got a Bergara B14R. A lot of chassis makes stopped making chassis for the 455 when the 457 came out. Instead of getting a 457 I got and second B14R, love them, drop a Trigger Tech Diamond and you are set, it comes with a good chassis, but you don't like them.
I put my T1X in a KRG Bravo to get the weight up close to the B14R. When I got my second B14R I put the T1X back into the factory stock for sporter class and hunting.
The CZ has more aftermarket stuff. Get the one you like the best. you want go wrong with either one.
 
Emerson0311,
What barrel did you put on your tikka ?
 
IBI make a slip fit for the Tikka ? Shims ? How long of a wait ? I guess you are happy with it if your considering getting a second barrel ?
 
IBI make a slip fit for the Tikka ? Shims ? How long of a wait ? I guess you are happy with it if your considering getting a second barrel ?
I like IBI barrels. I’ve got one on a 300PRC also. The T1X barrel is held in with grub screws and glue from the factory. Heat is required to melt the glue and loosen the screws to remove the factory barrel. The IBI one slips in. I used a piece of spent Eley brass to headspace it. My next 22LR build will be a 700 clone action with a barrel nut. If you keep T1X factory barrel, Tikka is fine. Otherwise, go CZ or custom action. My performs very well, but there is no reason to complicate your build like I did.
 
They are .22s. IMO they all need tweaking to feed, eject and shoot well. I have had 2 of the 1st Gen T1X and they needed a lot of attention to shoot well. But so did the CZs, Savages, Anschutz and Vudoos that I shoot against. My Vudoo 360 was every bit as bad for needing tweaking to operate and shoot well.
Not sure what your definition of "shoot well" is, but none of those should have issues feeding or ejecting. Even the savage.
Never once saw any Cz that needed tweaking to feed or eject, and if my Voodoo was badly in need of anything, it would be shipped straight back to Voodoo.
 
Murphy Precision’s stainless (or titanium) pic rail is vastly superior to the dip rail (and other aluminum rails that use tiny grub screw to immobilize the rail on the dovetail).

Here’s are Murphy’s brass-tipped screws that hold the rail on. Way better.

View attachment 8249324

He can make 0-30moa rails, and I’ll bet he’d do others on a custom basis.

Imo, any of the slip-over and grub screw down rails suck. They're all wonky.
Even at the expense of added weight, I'd opt for a side screw setup.

This style is vastly superior

 
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Imo, any of the slip-over and grub screw down rails suck. They're all wonky.
Even at the expense of added weight, I'd opt for a side screw setup.

This style is vastly superior

Yeah, at first glance that sounds better, but you’re flexing aluminum to grip the rail. I’m not an engineer so I don’t know what is preferable.
I mixed up the EGW rail with the Area419 rail. Ignore.

I do like stainless or titanium for rails vs. aluminum on a centerfire. Probably no difference for a rimfire.

If the HD EGW rail was like picatinny rail with a loose clamping section and stop bolts I get it. But these darn rifle manufacturers insist on these aesthetically pleasing smooth gripless dovetails.
I mixed up the EGW rail with the Area419 rail. Ignore.

The EGW couldn’t be worse that those darn dip rails. The Murphy rail seems literally welded on with no torsional flex like the dip rails can get if you are not careful.

So, not saying you’re wrong, I just don’t know. I’m glad you provided another (probably) good option. I had forgotten about them.
 
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I have a CZ457 MTR and a Vudoo 360. I have also shot against T1x at local matches. I preferred the CZ over the T1x . My CZ shoots almost as good as the Vudoo. I am good to order a Lija 21 in barrel for the CZ and see if that does make a difference.
 
I am not sure anyone can beat the Area 419 rail. It goes on very tight, I had to tap both of mine in place. It requires minimal flexing to get them to hold.

I find myself using the level more often than I expected, a nice bonus.

Haven't tried a Tikka, but count me among the CZ fans.
 
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Coke v Pepsi, both are great. I lean towards the Tikka myself. Mountain Tactical makes an ARCA rail that screws into the bottom, which has increased the lifetime of the base stock for me.
 
Yeah, at first glance that sounds better, but you’re flexing aluminum to grip the rail. I’m not an engineer so I don’t know what is preferable.

I do like stainless or titanium for rails vs. aluminum on a centerfire. Probably no difference for a rimfire.

If the HD EGW rail was like picatinny rail with a loose clamping section and stop bolts I get it. But these darn rifle manufacturers insist on these aesthetically pleasing smooth gripless dovetails.

The EGW couldn’t be worse that those darn dip rails. The Murphy rail seems literally welded on with no torsional flex like the dip rails can get if you are not careful.

So, not saying you’re wrong, I just don’t know. I’m glad you provided another (probably) good option. I had forgotten about them.
I doubt highly that you're flexing the EGW mount. It's short, rigid, and the clamping force is like 30in lbs. It's also distributed evenly over 3.5 inches.

That's just not enough to cause flex.
 
I doubt highly that you're flexing the EGW mount. It's short, rigid, and the clamping force is like 30in lbs. It's also distributed evenly over 3.5 inches.

That's just not enough to cause flex.
I agree.
 
I doubt highly that you're flexing the EGW mount. It's short, rigid, and the clamping force is like 30in lbs. It's also distributed evenly over 3.5 inches.

That's just not enough to cause flex.
For some reason I revisited this thread and noticed that I made a mistake. The EGW rail has side clamps like centerfire rifle mounts have and does not rely upon the whole unit to squeeze/flex to grip the rail.

I don’t know why I thought it did…I think I got it mixed up with the Area419 CZ rail.

I’ll edit my post above on that. Sorry.
 
Answer is both, I have both and configured them similarly but always grab the T1x first and it might have something to do with the Sterk swept back bolt knob.. Neither one is a declared Victor for one reason or the other. (1st gen T1x.). Though the CZ now has aluminum extended capacity mags and aluminum mag wells, which is nice. I haven't jumped on the 700 footprint bandwagon yet, namely for weight and I have nothing that uses a 700 pattern anything in my inventory.
 
I have a 452 American .22 and a Tix 17hmr. I favor the 452 for squirrel and the T1x for target and longer range varmint. Just because of the close range destruction of the 17.
 
20” IBI 12T Calfee IV chamber. Next time I’ll go 14T with the IBI Prevail chamber and at least 24”. Looking for better balance and maybe a bit more consistent SD.
I take it your experience with the 12t barrel wasn't entirely positive, hence going for a 14t in the future?
 
Nice thing is these rifles are not that expensive. I started with a CZ 457 and it runs right up there with the best of them. Mag changes can be an issue, my trigger was great and it fed everything very well.
 
I bet Tikka would have even more sale on T1X, if they would make a "varmint" model of that rifle with a heavier barrel.
But it would compete with the Sako rimifire, and they dont want that, even Tikka is the rifle that keeps the Sako factory running.
I tried to send them an email about this but couldn't find an contact info.
A heavy 22-24" barrel would be excellent, even if it only came in the UPR stock I could live with that.

Surely you know someone who works there?
Finland only has a few dozen people living there doesn't it.
 
I take it your experience with the 12t barrel wasn't entirely positive, hence going for a 14t in the future?
It is super tight elevation wise at 200+. There are some flyers that spoil most 1” ten shot groups at 100. Word is the 14T is a good middle ground that tightens up the vert at long range and keeps fliers resulting from non-uniform Rimfire bullets to a minimum. Always a compromise, just have to skew it toward your chosen game.
 
It is super tight elevation wise at 200+. There are some flyers that spoil most 1” ten shot groups at 100. Word is the 14T is a good middle ground that tightens up the vert at long range and keeps fliers resulting from non-uniform Rimfire bullets to a minimum. Always a compromise, just have to skew it toward your chosen game.
Does the 12T shoot worse inside of 100yards than a 16T?

I've been reading through all the 22lr twist threads and can't find anything conclusive about any of the twists.

Other than the faster twists need a longer barrel, 22"+.