datguy's FN SPR A1a build

datguy

Sergeant
Full Member
Minuteman
Jan 21, 2012
251
0
52
WA state
I've had my FN SPR A1a for a little over two years. It's my first bolt rifle. I've put about 400 or so rounds through it. I decided I'd like an adjustable cheek piece, so I pulled the action and boxed it up to send to stockdoc to do his work.

A before shot:
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1395644074.670108.jpg

I added the FN drop in bottom metal a few months ago and am happy with it.

Once the stock is back my plan is to send it to Mark at Short Action Customs to have him do the following:
Thread barrel and install Little Bastard brake
Bolt knob
Trigger work
Epoxy pillar bedding
Cerakote the whole shebang - on the fence on this one.

I shoot for fun. Gets me outside and I really enjoy it. My buddy has talked me into shooting a match. I want the brake and trigger work. Figured I'd do this stuff in one trip to Mark.

Thought I'd start this thread to get feedback on the plan and share the build with all interested.
 
I moved, started new job, started company in addition to job, built a shop, remodeled a house, etc in the same two years. All shooting stuff was boxed up for 18 months of that two years.
 
What trigger work did Mark do? You using the Winchester trigger, or did you change it?


My bad, I just realized that you haven't sent it out yet. But are you gonna keep or change the trigger?
 
...are you gonna keep or change the trigger?

Had not considered changing the trigger. Current plan, from the quote, is the following: "Clean and inspect trigger. Stone contact points to high polish to the correct geometry, reassemble trigger and set to customers specs."

Any suggestions on trigger pull?
 
Had not considered changing the trigger. Current plan, from the quote, is the following: "Clean and inspect trigger. Stone contact points to high polish to the correct geometry, reassemble trigger and set to customers specs."

Any suggestions on trigger pull?

I think keeping the Winchester trigger on that rifle is a good move. I really like my SPR trigger, although it is a single stage, and I really enjoy a 2 stage trigger. I wouldn't go below 3 lbs for that trigger. But ask Mark how light he can set it and still have it function reliably. If you try to set the weight too light on your own, the trigger will malfunction. I know this because I did it inadvertently.
 
This is why I'm turning the details over to Mark.

I'm trying to sort out flush cups, where I want them..

Place the aft flush cup high on the buttstock, more or less in line with the forend. For the forend flush cup, make sure it is forward enough. If not, the center of gravity will want to swing the barrel downwards when the rifle is slung, and it will be a pain in the ass to carry without trying to balance it.
 
How did you do the adjustable cheek piece?

I sent the stock out to Joe Ducos, aka stock doc here on the hide. He does a good job, and his work is done off a McMillan template so your buttstock comes out like it would if you got it from McM that way. However, the KMW hardware is better than McM's factory hardware in my opinion. I think this is what Manners uses. After Joe did the work, I had him send it directly to Branden at custom gun coatings for the paint job. Any imperfections caused by cutting the stock were cleaned up real nice. I got this rifle in 2008, and the stock has been to hell and back. I learned how to paint on this stock, and ended up painting it like 4 times. I broke the stock by dropping it on its forend. I also installed, buried and reinstalled a bunch of flush cups. Last thing I did was sand the entire thing down, filled in imperfections and low spots with devcon, then retextured the grip and forend. Branden killed it; he really brought the stock back to life, and now it looks brand new.
 
Mark does the best bolt knob conversion in the country on the FN. He can blend it so it looks like the knob is integral with the handle. My knob was not done by him, because I did it years ago before he was even in gunsmithing school. You will love it.