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Sidearms & Scatterguns Dear Glock and racegun owners,

atomic41

Sergeant
Full Member
Minuteman
  • Apr 4, 2013
    3,562
    8,526
    I have a question for you. Let's say a guy has a gen 5 G17 sitting there, and this guy is bored. Should he trick it out and put racey go fast parts on it? I mean, if the gun is just sitting there and it's kinda boring like it is so...

    I'm asking because I don't have a racegun, kinda want one, and have a donor. What's the good, the bad, and the ugly of doing this? If it's a bad idea, I want to know why.
     
    How deep are your pockets? Carver Customs, Gray Guns and Tarran Tactical all have good components/Gunsmithing. There are plenty aftermarket parts now for the Glock. Given a choice, I’d go with a 2011 platform, but that is MY preference.
     
    Save the money and get a Staccato or older STI.

    I get where it could be like throwing money at a Rem700, so is your advice because it's not worth it even if the gun is already sitting there (like a R700)? I'm looking for practical advice here, are those older guns priced comparable to throwing the money at the Glock?
     
    How deep are your pockets? Carver Customs, Gray Guns and Tarran Tactical all have good components/Gunsmithing. There are plenty aftermarket parts now for the Glock. Given a choice, I’d go with a 2011 platform, but that is MY preference.

    Gotcha and I'm only looking at this because it's a donor gun just sitting there. Budgetwise, I don't want to spend a ton on it so I'm just kinda exploring the idea to see if it makes sense. If the guys that have gone down this path tell me it's dumb, I'll listen. I just want to know the pros and cons.
     
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    take your board gun and shoot it ( not board anymore ) if you like it have some work done to it or have a ton of work done to it , it's your gun enjoy it if you don't like it sell it at a huge loss and get another gun .
     
    Kinda been there myself. I have a CZ SP01 that I changed out springs, did a Cajun trigger job on and it shoots well. I have a stock Shadow 2 that shoots even better. For the time and money I put in the SP01, I could have had a second Shadow 2 and now I don't shoot the SP01 hardly any. I have Glocks and like my Glocks, but they stay stock for me. If you want a racegun, get a racegun.
     
    I get where it could be like throwing money at a Rem700, so is your advice because it's not worth it even if the gun is already sitting there (like a R700)? I'm looking for practical advice here, are those older guns priced comparable to throwing the money at the Glock?
    It would be more like throwing your money at a Savage. The resale value just isn't going to be what you get with a 1911/2011.
     
    I know a few people with Glock "race guns" (USPSA Open guns). They're all the second, third, fourth owners of them. With everyone else ahead of them having given up on making them work well.

    Two other examples being, if Glock (Glock sponsored shooters) couldn't really make it work, what chance do you have? The other example being a gentleman we knew who sold Glock race gun parts, all the things you'd need to build a Glock Open gun. He shot a 2011 in Open.
     
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    Race, Race, Race. It's all the world talks about anymore, and frankly, I think there's way too much division and we need to become united again. That's why everyone should shoot production division.

    Does that make me a Classist ?
     
    Race, Race, Race. It's all the world talks about anymore, and frankly, I think there's way too much division and we need to become united again. That's why everyone should shoot production division.

    Does that make me a Classist ?
    Roll it back one more! Single Stack is where you should be.
    EFF5282A-93C4-4890-B0BD-0993C01D8893.jpeg
     
    I know a few people with Glock "race guns" (USPSA Open guns). They're all the second, third, fourth owners of them. With everyone else ahead of them having given up on making them work well.

    Sorry but that's super misleading, whether you intended and understood it to be or not.

    Someone may have given up on making them competitive with STIs, Tanfos, etc. But that's a completely different thing than giving up on making them work well. Anyone who can't make a Glock work well has no business working on a gun, and that's one of the appeals to people who do go that route - they don't suffer from the finicky tuning issues of a typical 1911-based race gun.

    Someone else above said Glocks should be kept stock, but that's an odd perspective too. Like anything else, and maybe more so, Glocks can be hugely improved with the right modifications. Add a quality threaded barrel with a good brake, a good trigger, and sights or better yet an optic, and you've got something that performs on a whole different level than a stock Glock, without sacrificing reliability either. It may not be competitive in actual competition with a 1911-based race gun, but it'll be capable of shooting faster and more accurately than the stock Glock without the tweaking and tuning issues of a true race gun.

    Polymer80 ghetto "builds" need not apply - that stuff is straight trash.
     
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    Looking back at the OP, what are YOUR goals @atomic41 ? Will this be a cool range toy or are you looking to shoot your way to Grand Master USPSA/IPSC? Steel Challenge? Or do you want a Race Gun for the couple times a year you go to a local match?
     
    Looking back at the OP, what are YOUR goals @atomic41 ? Will this be a cool range toy or are you looking to shoot your way to Grand Master USPSA/IPSC? Steel Challenge? Or do you want a Race Gun for the couple times a year you go to a local match?

    This is the right question.

    I took the OP to mean that he just wanted to do something fun and different with a spare gun - but that was an assumption on my part and could be completely wrong.

    Since I'm here again, might as well post a pic for OP. Top right is a G17 that'd loosely fit what I think you were describing as a casual/fun use "race gun"; I use it for GSSF unlimited class where it does very well, even if it's not truly a full-on race gun to be competitive with the high dollar stuff. It doesn't have a thumb ledge because I don't really like them, and the optic setup is more "carry/duty" than "race" (although honestly not that much difference there), but otherwise it's got all the basic ingredients and tuning you'd be looking for. I'd be happy to list out details if it'd help.

    yhY3RIVh.jpg
     
    Sorry but that's super misleading, whether you intended and understood it to be or not.

    Someone may have given up on making them competitive with STIs, Tanfos, etc. But that's a completely different thing than giving up on making them work well. Anyone who can't make a Glock work well has no business working on a gun, and that's one of the appeals to people who do go that route - they don't suffer from the finicky tuning issues of a typical 1911-based race gun.

    Someone else above said Glocks should be kept stock, but that's an odd perspective too. Like anything else, and maybe more so, Glocks can be hugely improved with the right modifications. Add a quality threaded barrel with a good brake, a good trigger, and sights or better yet an optic, and you've got something that performs on a whole different level than a stock Glock, without sacrificing reliability either. It may not be competitive in actual competition with a 1911-based race gun, but it'll be capable of shooting faster and more accurately than the stock Glock without the tweaking and tuning issues of a true race gun.

    Polymer80 ghetto "builds" need not apply - that stuff is straight trash.
    No it’s not misleading. I’m talking about they gave up on making them function reliably.

    And I clearly stated I was talking about USPSA Open guns, not Timmie’d up “strap ons”.

    (Because they got every damn thing but the kitchen sink strapped on them.) :D
     
    I've always been of the opinion race guns are like race cars. start with a good base that doesn't have a design or component holding you back. Given a choice I'd say the 1911 platform and variations have more to work with compared to a glock, and more room to fine finish/hand fit.
     
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    Looking back at the OP, what are YOUR goals @atomic41 ? Will this be a cool range toy or are you looking to shoot your way to Grand Master USPSA/IPSC? Steel Challenge? Or do you want a Race Gun for the couple times a year you go to a local match?
    This is the right question.

    I took the OP to mean that he just wanted to do something fun and different with a spare gun - but that was an assumption on my part and could be completely wrong.

    Since I'm here again, might as well post a pic for OP. Top right is a G17 that'd loosely fit what I think you were describing as a casual/fun use "race gun"; I use it for GSSF unlimited class where it does very well, even if it's not truly a full-on race gun to be competitive with the high dollar stuff. It doesn't have a thumb ledge because I don't really like them, and the optic setup is more "carry/duty" than "race" (although honestly not that much difference there), but otherwise it's got all the basic ingredients and tuning you'd be looking for. I'd be happy to list out details if it'd help.

    yhY3RIVh.jpg


    Good answers coming in, appreciate it. My idea was build a range toy to fill a gap in the collection. But realistically, if it's sitting there then I would probably go shoot some local comps with it. It sounds like getting it to run right is controversial based on the comments here.

    I guess the more I think about it, yeah I would probably shoot some comps. I just didn't set out with that idea but dangit I know how my brain works and I would probably do it.

    @Yondering , My idea was to do mild mods like the one you have. (is that correct to call yours mild?) If you get bored and feel like sharing, I would enjoy seeing your list of mods. You can PM me if you like.

    I appreciate the responses guys, give it to me straight.
     
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    I’m talking about they gave up on making them function reliably.

    Thanks for clarifying that. I definitely don't want to go that route. I'm wondering more about a "mild" race build and since I've never owned one, I don't even know where the do not cross line is LOL. I'm very experienced with firearms, not this style though.
     
    Not Glock, but SIG, same idea though. (this is what I did)
    Wilson Combat P320 Carry with their action tune/trigger package, which is the grayguns trigger. On sale by happenstance $1250
    Manual Safety added- bought the gun from them so they'd do it at the same time, also discounted $150
    Different Iron sights- TFX truglo Pro times 2, xs big dots, xs R8 I think, and the like- over $600 with tool to install
    Grip Modules - I've stayed ok cheap here, though that may change - $220' ish
    Magnaported - $220
    Parker Mountain Machine Barrel with their twin port compensator - $375
    Different grip tapes - $30
    DPM recoil system - $100


    So, about $3k without taxes and feeling like I'm still forgetting things, and it doesn't even have an optic cut, which, for me, is perfect, but if you like optics, well, another several hundred comes out. Then you get into the mess of holsters and such.

    However, is it worth it? I think so, this thing is absolutely sick at this point, it recoils like a toy, I hit better with it than I ever did with either of my other current guns with red dots, it's insanely fun to shoot, and I carry it because it's just "right." Though it's a big gun at this point. Jesus, don't forget an important point, it's reliable, hasn't had a misfeed or fail to eject or whatever, yet, 115gr - 147gr.

    I built another P320, non-Wilson Combat, subcompact slide with PMM Barrel and micro comp, grayguns competition trigger again, manual safety added. Easier to carry, still not as flat or fun to shoot, but flat and fun. Just ordered a $160 adjustable rear sight from SIG, busted the screw off in it, so, just ordered another $160 adjustable rear sight from SIG, just like that $320 on a rear sight that's plain as plain gets but I have the optics plate with no dovetail... not much choice.

    Point there, you can do better the second time around now knowing more of what works for you, but you still have to throw money at it at times.
    I have a 2011, and it's nice, and I love 1911s, so it was the "dream," and I think it's going to get sold, these two P320s are just too good, and I always hated the idea of a striker fired handgun, I was against these from the drop, 2011 had an easy win.

    P320s are simple as simple gets to work on though, and things work easily, they shoot very well, but a guy could get a 2011 with a comp or similar and it would shoot like a toy too, don't get me wrong I know that, but the finicky stuff is still there, mags, one works one doesn't, more difficult to take apart and work on, and so on.

    So, I would start modifying the Glock, first thing I'd get for that thing is the Radian Ramjet and Afterburner barrel and compensator combo. I'd get a DPM recoil assembly to go along with it, if they make one for it, keep it reliable, then go from there.

    Just don't be surprised if you end up liking things so much that you need to do them to everything else you have.
     
    Not Glock, but SIG, same idea though. (this is what I did)

    I like this, thanks for sharing. I have a P320 but it's my EDC and don't want to mod it but I get what you are saying. The Glock is just kinda boring and begging to be fucked with if that makes sense.
     
    Oh, and to be sure, I don't compete in anything, I didn't start out to build a race gun or a competition gun, just kept building a "better" gun.

    Reliability is owed to the DPM recoil systems, they work, and it's a great company, they give you adjustability to get the gun to cycle the rounds you shoot.

    And the Wilson Gun is definitely smoother, if one asked me if I'd go that route again or build from a SIG, I'd actually go Wilson again, not that one has to, just a little extra nice...

    Good luck, and you're welcome.
     
    Just don't be surprised if you end up liking things so much that you need to do them to everything else you have.
    There is truth in this, All of my 1911s have had extended safeties, beaver tail grip safeties, magwells and sights replaced. You find that you like a modification and the other pistols end up with it too.
     
    OP I say slap some parts on it (trigger, threaded barrel and comp, optic) and run it like that. If you don’t like it or find that you want to get something better, you can either sell the upgraded parts or just keep them on there as a fun gun. Here’s my P80 budget blaster “race gun”
    IMG_3542.jpeg
     
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    I also say do some stuff to it and run the snot out of it. I have a gen3 17 with the full zev fulcrum kit, barsto barrel, Dawson magwell, taren mag extensions, captured 13# spring to run my very mild 147 reloads and a Leupold dpp on it. Had Dawson sights before going red dot as I’ve had the thing for 20 years. Gun runs like a raped ape and I’m on my second barrel I’ve shot it so much. Been using for uspsa and multi gun since I got it. Don’t think I’ve ever had a single malfunction period. I think it’s totally worth throwing a few bucks at it especially since you already own the platform. You can always buy something else also if you want the super fast race gun.
     
    No it’s not misleading. I’m talking about they gave up on making them function reliably.

    And I clearly stated I was talking about USPSA Open guns, not Timmie’d up “strap ons”.

    (Because they got every damn thing but the kitchen sink strapped on them.) :D

    Then someone didn’t have any idea what they were doing.

    Even in a “race gun” Glock, there’s not much to it. Your statement would make sense if it were a 1911 based race gun, because there is quite a bit of fine tuning to make them right. But not so much in a Glock - pretty much just make sure things fit right and then adjust a couple springs to suit the load.

    I’m sure that’s beyond some people but I wouldn’t want them touching my stuff, or use them to judge whether a particular gun is hard to keep running.
     
    I’m going to have to disagree with someone else above too and say do NOT use those DPM spring systems or anything like it, Sprinco etc. That stuff has been around for years under different names and they usually cause way more problems than they solve.

    You’re much better off with just a light spring (11-13 lb depending on the gun) on a good stainless guide rod. Felt recoil is lower and you don’t get any weird bump at the end of travel like those “recoil reducer” systems.

    On a separate topic- aftermarket barrels. There are a lot of them out there, but most don’t consistently improve accuracy. There are a few good ones I like though - KKM, Zev, and BarSto. My top choice is KKM but that 17 I posted a pic of above has the SF/Zev barrel and it’s very good.

    Those aren’t the only good choices, but be aware that most, by far, are in the same league as the factory barrel, at best, and some are flat out worse.
     
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    After having done just about everything to a Glock that can be done at one point in time… just buy a connector and drop it in, maybe tune/swap the recoil spring to work better with your loads, that’s about it. It will always be a Glock with a crappy Glock trigger, just a slightly less crappy Glock trigger no matter how much you spend.

    If it’s for fun, sell it in order to fund a CZ Shadow 2. 🤪
     
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    just buy a connector and drop it in

    Help me, what's a "connector"? I'm very knowledgeable about a lot of firearms but not racey guns. Honestly I don't know crap about them and if I go down this path I'm going to be asking more questions.
     
    If you've never tried it, this is how it goes: get yourself a 3.5 connector from just about anyone (you can pay a little or a lot but they're all basically the same), then look up "Glock 25 cent trigger job" (which more or less shows you where/what to polish), if you choose to stop there you'll have a trigger that's lighter (but also a little mushier), maybe ~4.5-5lbs...

    If you load your own ammo or shoot stuff with easy-to-set-off primers, then the next step is going to a reduced power striker spring, this will yield the greatest effect and you'll instantly be in Glock race-gun territory (~3lb pull or less), but, with harder primers, you can bet on getting a click instead of a bang (it can no longer be trusted for self-defense or as a carry gun).

    IMO, once you start spending more than the few bucks a connector and springs cost, you are entering into the world of diminishing returns on investment, as a Glock trigger will always be a Glock trigger.
     
    If you've never tried it, this is how it goes: get yourself a 3.5 connector from just about anyone (you can pay a little or a lot but they're all basically the same), then look up "Glock 25 cent trigger job" (which more or less shows you where/what to polish), if you choose to stop there you'll have a trigger that's lighter (but also a little mushier), maybe ~4.5-5lbs...

    If you load your own ammo or shoot stuff with easy-to-set-off primers, then the next step is going to a reduced power striker spring, this will yield the greatest effect and you'll instantly be in Glock race-gun territory (~3lb pull or less), but, with harder primers, you can bet on getting a click instead of a bang (it can no longer be trusted for self-defense or as a carry gun).

    IMO, once you start spending more than the few bucks a connector and springs cost, you are entering into the world of diminishing returns on investment, as a Glock trigger will always be a Glock trigger.

    I'm guessing you've never used a good Glock trigger. The right setup can be a huge upgrade over stock. Way better than that "25 cent trigger job" which causes most people to spend way more to fix what they screwed up by "polishing" later anyway.

    The trigger in my 17 posted about earlier is right at 2 lb with a very short reset, although it's set up to run Federal primers only. The trigger in my carry gun is about 2.75 lb, also with a very short reset, and is reliable with anything including magnum primers. The complication is just that there's no one recipe that works the same every time in all Glocks, you do often have to try a few things to get the right combo. And it's not about how much you spend, but how well the parts and tuning are matched to the gun.
     
    I'm guessing you've never used a good Glock trigger. The right setup can be a huge upgrade over stock. Way better than that "25 cent trigger job" which causes most people to spend way more to fix what they screwed up by "polishing" later anyway.

    The trigger in my 17 posted about earlier is right at 2 lb with a very short reset, although it's set up to run Federal primers only. The trigger in my carry gun is about 2.75 lb, also with a very short reset, and is reliable with anything including magnum primers. The complication is just that there's no one recipe that works the same every time in all Glocks, you do often have to try a few things to get the right combo. And it's not about how much you spend, but how well the parts and tuning are matched to the gun.

    Now, having said that... I'm guessing you've never used a good 1911/2011, CZ Customs, or CGW CZ trigger lol... 😜

    Nope, I've used the best Glock triggers available on planet Earth, and even paid the premium of having one of them done by Taran Butler's gunsmith to match his specs more than a few years back. Johnny Glock, Zev, you name it... I've probably tried them.

    I'm no Glock hater either, they're fantastic work guns, and excellent tools, I wear the same G17 every day for both work and EDC, and it has somewhere north of 15,000rds on it (lost count) and I don't think it's ever malfunctioned on me.

    IMO a Glock is like an F-150/Tundra... solid, reliable, and will get you back and forth to work every day, but... it'll never be a Porsche 911 no matter how many things you do to it.
     
    A Glock will always be a Glock. Nothing wrong with it, but its not what I’d consider a “race gun”.

    If a high end USPSA Open gun is an indy car, a well modified Glock 17/34 is a nice BMW/Mercedez/Audi. Both can go fast and be driven hard, one one just has a higher overall performance celling.

    As with everything, you could give me, an average pistol shooter, a $6,000 custom Infinity open gun and Ben Stoeger would still beat me with a stock Glock 19. The driver matters more.

    If and when I buy my issued G34 from my agency, I’ll have some modding fun. Bob cut recoil spring housing, trigger guard undercut, perhaps play with the springs, throw a fat magwell on it, and maybe a better/lighter trigger (its already cut for an RMR). Use it as a backup USPSA LO gun.
     
    Now, having said that... I'm guessing you've never used a good 1911/2011, CZ Customs, or CGW CZ trigger lol... 😜

    Nope, I've used the best Glock triggers available on planet Earth, and even paid the premium of having one of them done by Taran Butler's gunsmith to match his specs more than a few years back. Johnny Glock, Zev, you name it... I've probably tried them.

    I'm no Glock hater either, they're fantastic work guns, and excellent tools, I wear the same G17 every day for both work and EDC, and it has somewhere north of 15,000rds on it (lost count) and I don't think it's ever malfunctioned on me.

    IMO a Glock is like an F-150/Tundra... solid, reliable, and will get you back and forth to work every day, but... it'll never be a Porsche 911 no matter how many things you do to it.

    I’ve done some excellent 1911 trigger jobs, and in fact just recently completed a couple more full CGW CZ triggers. Both cost a heck of a lot more than making a Glock trigger good.

    You say you’ve used good Glock triggers, but your previous statement indicates otherwise. Maybe you’d be happier if you had to spend a lot more I get there, but that always seemed like a dumb perspective to me.

    The simple fact is you can make huge improvements to the Glock trigger, and it doesn’t cost all that much to do if a guy has some idea what he’s doing. I see no value in advising someone not to bother just because it won’t feel like a 2011 trigger.
     
    I’ve done some excellent 1911 trigger jobs, and in fact just recently completed a couple more full CGW CZ triggers. Both cost a heck of a lot more than making a Glock trigger good.

    You say you’ve used good Glock triggers, but your previous statement indicates otherwise. Maybe you’d be happier if you had to spend a lot more I get there, but that always seemed like a dumb perspective to me.

    The simple fact is you can make huge improvements to the Glock trigger, and it doesn’t cost all that much to do if a guy has some idea what he’s doing. I see no value in advising someone not to bother just because it won’t feel like a 2011 trigger.

    I said I wouldn’t recommend going further than maybe spending a few bucks for a connector and maybe some springs… and I stand by that 100%.
     
    Polymer80 ghetto "builds" need not apply - that stuff is straight trash.
    Depends on the builder, eh? Just like cars on the track. I've seen a good driver in a Mazda Miata run circles around a poor driver in a Porsche 911. I used to have fun giving the 911s a run in my Subaru STI.

    There are certainly some "trash / ghetto" builders out there. But there are also a LOT of serious builders who produce excellent results. Ask me how I know.

    All of my P80 builds are every bit as reliable as my factory Glocks. I've got over 11,000 rounds through my P80 collection. 7,000 rounds through one of them.

    Trash, you say?
    Cobalt-Celtic-book-reflection.jpg


    5-shot-group-Cobalt-Celtic-10-yards.jpg



    Untitled-12.jpg

    20220901_182742[1].jpg


    1692974167381.png
    1692974320603.png


    OP I say slap some parts on it (trigger, threaded barrel and comp, optic) and run it like that. If you don’t like it or find that you want to get something better, you can either sell the upgraded parts or just keep them on there as a fun gun. Here’s my P80 budget blaster “race gun”
    Exactly... It's FUN! Not all guns have to be "serious tools."
     
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    Depends on the builder, eh? Just like cars on the track. I've seen a good driver in a Mazda Miata run circles around a poor driver in a Porsche 911. I used to have fun giving the 911s a run in my Subaru STI.

    There are certainly some "trash / ghetto" builders out there. But there are also a LOT of serious builders who produce excellent results. Ask me how I know.

    All of my P80 builds are every bit as reliable as my factory Glocks. I've got over 11,000 rounds through my P80 collection. 7,000 rounds through one of them.




    Exactly... It's FUN! Not all guns have to be "serious tools."

    7,000 rounds through one of them? Wow!

    LOL. If it were a real Glock that'd be like being proud a Toyota Camry made it 20,000 miles, when they're normally good for 200,000-300,000 miles. But at least your enthusiasm is entertaining.

    Nothing you've shared changes my mind about P80 crap being trash, especially not that form over function blingy stuff, or the softball size close range groups. Sorry, but how are those kind of "builds" (LOL, again) any different than little girls dressing up Barbie dolls?
     
    I'm with a few of the other above opinions in that you can throw in a new trigger and barrel on Glocks and that's about it. A small compensator is also a possibility. Most Glock comps require a 130 PF to run from my experience . So at that point I'm not sure what you truly gain in recoil reduction over 147gr subs. Then you might run into cycling issues and have to tune your springs to work in conjunction to have enough back pressure on the slide to actually cycle the gun and not FTF.

    Just sell that gun and buy a shadow systems dr920p comp. Then if it doesn't run you have someone to bitch at. These guns shoot flatter than any compensated Glock I've ever shot.

    Every Glock I've heavily modified or made a race gun I have returned to nearly stock. The sweetest running Glocks are just a polish job on connector and trigger and stock otherwise. I have a gen 3 Glock 17 I've tried to successfully turn into a race gun for the past two years. It never runs 100%. That won't work for USPSA or steel challenge open divisions.
     
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    LOL. If it were a real Glock that'd be like being proud a Toyota Camry made it 20,000 miles, when they're normally good for 200,000-300,000 miles. But at least your enthusiasm is entertaining.
    LOL! Touche! Funny thing... My 2011 Toyota Camry has 210,000 miles on it. I'm going for 300k!

    BTW, the 7,000 rounds is since last September when I finished building that one.

    Nothing you've shared changes my mind about P80 crap being trash, especially not that form over function blingy stuff, or the softball size close range groups.
    Oh, bless your heart... you thought I was trying to change your mind. :)

    Those fist-sized groups at self-defense distances with sub-0.2-second split times are exactly the goal. This ain't bullseye shootin'. LOL!

    The bling is for me... I've got PLENTY of good ol' fashioned black guns, eh? A couple FDE factory guns, too. And an ODG thrown in. Here are some of the "family."
    Glock-family.jpg
    FNH-Family.jpg


    Some precision rifles, since this is the "Hide."
    Ruger Precision with Vortex HST.jpg
    AR-15-Competition.jpg


    And.... some "morning wood!"
    Browning BL-22-0043.JPG


    So, if I'm going to BUILD some guns for fun, why WOULDN'T I dress them up? Plain black? Well, I can just BUY black guns.

    To be honest I bought this frame and slide as a bit of a lark. I wasn't sure whether I would like it or not. But then once I had it in my hands, I knew I had to go full-on blingtastic with it!

    I even changed the RSA to a gold colored metal guide!
    Goldi-with-L2D-guide-rod.jpg


    Sorry, but how are those kind of "builds" (LOL, again) any different than little girls dressing up Barbie dolls?
    Awww... He tried to insult me. Ain't that precious? Bless his heart. Here's the thing, Sparky... I'm a firearms enthusiast. I like'em all. I like precision long distance shooting. I also like to practice close-up rapid-fire self-defense style shooting, including point / instinctive shooting with no sights used at all. Egads! I like rifles, shotguns, handguns (pistols and revolvers). I like all-black purely functional guns. I like me some "gucci" guns, too. I'm an ardent 2A advocate, as well. I've written articles and been on TV. I don't judge any fellow firearm owner or enthusiast by which guns he or she owns or likes. It's all good!

    I find it amusing when self-proclaimed "gun guys" take the time to disparage the choices of other gun guys. Fudd much? Does it really make you feel good about yourself? Amusing and sad at the same time.

    So, enjoy whatever it is you enjoy in the firearms world. Live and let live. What harm can come from the OP building a "race gun," even if it's a modified Glock or a blinged-out Glock clone? If it makes you happy and you can afford it... no-brainer! Mo' guns is mo' better!
     
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    This thread was better left dead. Now it's just cringy.


    Then someone didn’t have any idea what they were doing.

    That someone was Glock Inc.
    If KC Eusebio and Glock couldn't keep the gun running well enough to be happy, I think Weekend Wally and the Brownells catalog are a little over matched in accomplishing it.
     
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    Kinda been there myself. I have a CZ SP01 that I changed out springs, did a Cajun trigger job on and it shoots well. I have a stock Shadow 2 that shoots even better. For the time and money I put in the SP01, I could have had a second Shadow 2 and now I don't shoot the SP01 hardly any. I have Glocks and like my Glocks, but they stay stock for me. If you want a racegun, get a racegun.

    Yes but then send your Shadow 2 to CGW and prepare to be amazed.

    If it’s for fun, sell it in order to fund a CZ Shadow 2. 🤪

    So as soon as you get your CZ Shadow 2, get on the wait list for CGW to mod the Shadow 2 for you.
     
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    Not Glock, but SIG, same idea though. (this is what I did)
    Wilson Combat P320 Carry with their action tune/trigger package, which is the grayguns trigger. On sale by happenstance $1250
    Manual Safety added- bought the gun from them so they'd do it at the same time, also discounted $150
    Different Iron sights- TFX truglo Pro times 2, xs big dots, xs R8 I think, and the like- over $600 with tool to install
    Grip Modules - I've stayed ok cheap here, though that may change - $220' ish
    Magnaported - $220
    Parker Mountain Machine Barrel with their twin port compensator - $375
    Different grip tapes - $30
    DPM recoil system - $100


    So, about $3k without taxes and feeling like I'm still forgetting things


    Just to add, because this thread still exists.

    I now carry this gun with the Tungsten infused TXG grip and a Springer Precision brass magwell, concealed, with the 21rd mag.

    So it's a Wilson carry size P320, Parker Mountain Machine barrel with twin port comp, TXG full size grip, brass magwell, Grayguns competition trigger, Truglo pro rear sight, XS big dot front. She fits in a P320 legion holster perfect. Big Gal

    Carry with no issues, no printing, so, talking about an open race gun, heavy and all, appendix carry. Had it on while out grocery shopping today.

    Have a sub-compact with the twin port comp as well, and my 3.25" barreled 2011 has V6 porting, red dirt trigger, and such, still carry the bigger gal.

    I want perfect, whether carrying or not, still working on it. I kind of think that 3.25" 2011 done up with a new barrel and twin port+ comp instead of the porting may be the real G spot. Maybe two top ports with one small side port on each side would be the way.

    We'll see...
     
    This thread was better left dead. Now it's just cringy.




    That someone was Glock Inc.
    If KC Eusebio and Glock couldn't keep the gun running well enough to be happy, I think Weekend Wally and the Brownells catalog are a little over matched in accomplishing it.

    LOL. "was better left dead" then you replied to an old comment to keep it going further. Right.

    There are plenty of people who have Glock open guns running right. It's not that hard, but it's also not surprising that "Glock" (i.e. some "armorer" trained by Glock most likely) couldn't figure it out. Nothing about Glock armorer training teaches someone how to do that, and Glock isn't in the business of building open guns.

    Just because YOU couldn't get something to work doesn't mean nobody else can; that's some real arrogance. If you want to ask about how to fix a specific problem getting a gun to run, and give the relevant details, then you could probably get some answers. But so far all you've done is insist "can't be done" and imply that your experts are the best experts so nobody else can do it either. That's cringy.
     
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    I'll start by admitting to being a Glock fan-boy with well over a couple of hundred thousand rounds through mostly bog-stock G23s.. I had this Gen 4 17 in the safe and had fun building it out through covid.

    Timney trigger. KKM Barrel and comp. RMR. TTI Magwell. It took some work to get it reliable.. but no more than any other custom gun I've owned and plenty less than some of the options you've been given. I'll take my consistent 2lb trigger over a DA/SA any day and whilst I enjoy my STI, Nighthawks and Hi-powers I love shooting this thing. It'll punch a fist sized hole in a target at 25 yards with good splits and doesn't miss a beat.
     

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    Race, Race, Race. It's all the world talks about anymore, and frankly, I think there's way too much division and we need to become united again. That's why everyone should shoot production division.

    Does that make me a Classist ?
    Production division pistols ARE race guns. What do you think the Shadow and Shadow 2 were developed for?
     
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    Reactions: stefan73
    Yes but then send your Shadow 2 to CGW and prepare to be amazed.



    So as soon as you get your CZ Shadow 2, get on the wait list for CGW to mod the Shadow 2 for you.
    People love to waste money. The Shadow 2 needs a couple of DIY spring changes and nothing more.

    You can blow 500 bucks with CGW and still have nothing that will let you perform better than a stock one with hammer and recoil spring tuning.