Desert Tech SRS A2 question - changing muzzle device

[dillhole]

Hey everyone, I am new to this platform, and fairly new to almost any rifle that isn’t an AR platform. But I’ve got one of these things now, and a couple conversions (300 win mag, 338 lapua, and a couple more to come most likely).

Anyway, how do you change the muzzle device on these? Is there a reaction rod or vise block type tool that you guys recommend? Proper torque, timing, etc?

I’m mostly thinking of the 300 win mag right now. I’m going to run a cgs hyperion, and you have to put their little taper adapter on there. For the Hekate and the 338 lm, I’ll just direct thread.

Thanks in advance!

 

[Supersubes]

You’ll need a barrel vice to secure the barrel. Then just unscrew the brake with whatever tool fits it. Wrench on the flats or a strap wrench. If it were me I would just use the Hekate on everything.

 

[dillhole]

You’ll need a barrel vice to secure the barrel. Then just unscrew the brake with whatever tool fits it. Wrench on the flats or a strap wrench. If it were me I would just use the Hekate on everything.

Thanks. Any one in particular you’d recommend?

 

[Supersubes]

You can buy a viper barrel vice for $60. Do it yourself.

 

[dillhole]

You can buy a viper barrel vice for $60. Do it yourself.

Thanks. Ordered.

 

[spamassassin]

The factory brakes appear to be torqued by either a hemi or a gorilla. Not sure which. Can't help but wonder if a little propane torch action might not make things easier and burn scars that are a little hard to explain.

 

[PB&J.]

Clamp two blocks of wood together and bore a hole across the grain through the middle of the joint slightly undersized from your barrel diameter, then sandwich those blocks around your barrel and clamp it in a hydraulic press.

This method works for removing all but the most stubborn of barrels from actions. A muzzle brake on the DTA's factory fluted barrel will pop right off using this method (I have done exactly this with my factory DTA brake). You might even get away with clamping in a bench vice rather than a press as those factory flutes really bite into the wood and stop the rotation and the muzzle brake isn't all that tight.

DO NOT DIRECTLY CLAMP THE BARREL UNLESS YOU WANT TO SCORE IT UP!!!